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C >pj 1 1, lit 1UJ0, by WlUMAM R. JENKINS 



THE COMPLETE 

POCKET-GUIDE 



TO 



EUROPE 



BY 

EDMUND C. STEDMAN 

EDITED BY 

THOMAS L. STEDMAN 



NEW YORK 

WILLIAM R. JENKINS CO. 
48th St. and Sixth Ave. 



LONDON 

BAILLIERE, TINDALL & COX 
8 Henrietta Street, Strand 

1911 






Copyright, 1898, 1899, 1905. by William R. Jenkins 
Copyright, 1907, 1908, 1910, William R. Jenkins Co„ 

All Bights Reserved 






Printed by thb 

Press of William R. Jenkins Co. 

New York 



NOTE BY THE "EDITOR 



THIS book has been for many years before the puV 
lie, and is thoroughly tested by increasing use- 
among travellers through the portions of Europe gen* 
erally covered in a single tour. It resulted from ob- 
servation of the trials undergone by those equipped 
with the larger and more cumbrous handbooks W& 
devised the Pocket Guide because such a wor& was 
sorely needed, and no one else undertook this practi- 
cal service. The ends desired were : 1. Fuller and 
better arranged details of Routes, Points of Interest, 
Fares, Hotels, Currency, etc., than are given in 
many books of greater proportions. 2. Legible type 
and good maps. 3. A real Pocket Guide, so com- 
pact as to be carried in a man's coat or hip pocket, 
or in a woman's dress-pocket or muff. 

The work has been revised from year to year, and 
to an average of correctness at least equal to that of 
any other condensed guidebook. New maps and 
other improvements have been added. The vrlume 
however, has been rigidly kept within its original 
size. We believe that the Pocket Guide is as neay 
what it claims to be as editorial diligence can make 
it, and trust that it now, more than ever, will add te> 
the comfort of travellers from our own and othei 
English-speaking countries. 

The Editor 



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ABBREVIATIONS. 



M. . . . . Mile, or miles. 
ft. ....Feet. 

in Inches. 

sq. .... Square. 

N North. 

S South. 

E. . . . . East. 
W. . . . . West. 

». Eight (hand). 

1 Left (hand). 

?ly. . . . Railway. 
■stat. . . . Station. 
*h. . . . Church, 
ihr. .... Hour, 
ttin. . . . Minutes. 

£ Pounds sterling. 

8- .... Shilling, or shillings 
k. . . . Krone. 



d Penny, or pence. 

fr. .... Franc, or francs. 
c . I . Cents, centimes, oreea 
tesimi. 

fl Florin or florins. 

mk.,mks. Mark, marks, 
pf. .... Pfennige. 

kr. ... Kreutzers. 

L ..... Lira, or lire. 

r. ..... Reales. 

Sun. . . . Sunday. 

Mon. , . Monday. 
Tues. . Tuesday. 
Wed. . . Wednesday. 
Thurs. . Thursday. 
Fri. . Friday. 
Sat. . . Saturday. 



The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections 
are printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, 
©f less importance, have titles in italics. 

In many eases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous 
events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directly 
after, in parentheses. 

Statements which have for many years been regarded locally ass 
unchallengeable facts (e. g., the preservation of the heads of St. 
Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in 
these pages without comment. 



CONTENTS. 



Table or Moneys iv 

Abbreviations vi 

A Chapter on Travel vii 

Arrangements for the Journey , viii 

Steamships— The Ocean Journey x 

Money, etc xv 

Railway Travel xix 

Hotel Expenses, etc xx 

Golfing— Cycling xxv 

Automobile Regulations xxvii 

Customs Regulations xxx 

Ireland 1 

Killarney— The Lakes 6 

Dublin. 14 

Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc 23 

North Wales 27 

England (Chester) 32 

Liverpool 36 

English Lake District 42 

Scotland (The Land of Burns) 56 

The Scottish Highlands 68 

Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen 80 

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford 85 

England (Newcastle, Durham, York ) 95 

Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 103 

Coventry, Warwick, Stratford 112 

London 128 

Excursions in Southern England 151 

Routes to the Continent 159 

Northern France 161 

Paris 168 

Routes from Paris to Switzerland 198 



CONTENTS 

Belgium 201 

Brussels and Environs 204 

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc 207 

Holland 212 

Germany and Austria 218 

Up the Rhine by Steamer 222 

Berlin .* 241 

Dresdren and Prague 246 

Vienna 250 

Southeastern Europe 255 

Munich and the Tyrol 261 

Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) 274 

Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard 280 

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva 287 

Chamounix and Mont Blanc 292 

St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 294 

Italy (Routes into Italy) 297 

The North-Italian Cities 302 

Florence 329 

Rome 340 

Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 370 

Sicily 384 

Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) 397 

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 401 

A Round Trip in Spain 405 

Portugal 434 

A Tour in the North 441 

Norway and Sweden 445 

Russia 455 

Alphabetical Table op Health Resorts 463 

Diplomatic and Consular Agents op the U. S. 471 

Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 476 

Travelers' Telegraphic Code 492 

Index 50Q 



THE COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. 



A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 



rjOURTEOUS READER,— When you have laid 
aside you prejudices, donned your garments of 
travel, and set your foot upon the gang-plank of the 
steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if 
you discover that you have forgotten something. If 
you have bought this our little book, and read this 
preliminary chapter, you will depart for foreign lands 
with all your preparations properly made. 

This Guide describes, as minutely as possible within 
the limits of a "handy volume," a continuous tour 
through Northern, Middle, South-eastern, and 
Southern Europe. The writers hope and believe that 
if you follow exactly the routes which they de- 
scribe from the first to the last page of the book, 
yon will have seen intelligently, at a minimum of 
cost and inconvenience, the most interesting sections 
of Europe, and all within four months. By suppres- 
sing the trip down the Danube and some parts of 
the Scottish and Sicilian tours, and the Scandinavian 
and Spanish tours, this can be reduced by three 
weeks. Many summer tourists seem disinclined t-o 
visit N. Germany and Austria. This, we think, ife a 
decided error of judgment; but it is evident that if 
these sections are not visited, the time is reduced 



viii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

by another ten days. Most travellers can, with a trifle 
of care and patience, sit down with this book before 
them, and by its aid plan a journey which, including 
the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up 
more than four lull months, and can be made with 
ease and enjoyment. 

Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation 
of this volume, to giving the local raihoay and steamboat 
fares, — a feature in which nearly all other English and 
American guide-books are sadly deficient. We believe 
that our work will be found very complete in this 
particular. Several hundred letters were written to 
station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose 
of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think 
our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how- 
ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of 
a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit 
higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ; 
but the difference will be slight. We have done our 
best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The 
traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in 
vain to find w r hat he wants in the "A B C's" and 
" Bradshaws " of Great Britain, and has puzzled his 
brains over the complicated Continental hand-books. 
We think that the route which we recommend and 
describe may be followed from beginning to end with 
no other guide than this one, which can be carried in 
the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly 
every route described. 

Arrangements for the Journey. 

Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe 
by the first of May. With a view to this, secure your 
steamship tickets very early in the year. When you 



ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY ix 

have decided on the date of your departure and the 
probable length of your absence from home, step 
into a prominent banker's in the city in which you 
reside, or the seaport whence you sail, and secure a 
Letter of Credit or Circular Notes for a sum which 
you deem sufficient to cover your expenses until you 
are at home again. Allow a margin for contingencies. 
On the Letter of Credit are the addresses of perhaps 
two hundred of the leading banking houses of 
Europe, and you have only to call on any one of 
these for such sums as you wish in the currency of 
the country where you may happen to be. The 
Travelers' Checks also afford an excellent means of 
carrying readily available funds abroad. They are 
accepted by most of the hotels and shops as freely as 
the money of the country, and are therefore found 
very useful by the tourist who may want small sums 
outside of banking hours, or who may not find it 
convenient to interrupt his sight-seeing by a call at 
the banker's. Buy at a broker's a few English sov- 
ereigns, for use on steamer, at landing at Liverpool, 
or Queenstown, or Southampton, or other ports. 

Take a Passport. Circumstances,, may occur in 
which it will be positively necessary for you to have 
one. Address a letter to the "State "Department, 
Passport Bureau, Washington," asking for the 
printed form necessary for application for the 
document. When you get this form, fill it out, 
swear to its contents before a notary, and send it 
back to the State Department, inclosing the go- 
vernment tax of $1. In due time you will get 
your passport. One is sufficient for man and 
wife, or man and family where there are no 
grown up sons or daughters. If a passport serves 



x A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

for more persons than its holder, he should ask to 
have a note made upon it that Mr. is accompa- 
nied by . Passports are absolutely necessary if 

any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her 
identity. They are useful in securing admission to 
public buildings, private art galleries, etc. Some- 
times the regulations exacting them are revived for ? 
few days between two countries, because of a diplo- 
matic tension or imbroglio, and the person who has 
none will find his journey interrupted, and will suf- 
fer loss of money, time, and temper. 

Steamships. — The Ocean Journey. 

A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a 
common undertaking that most travellers make as 
brief preparation for it as if they were going by 
train from New York to Chicago. 

The choice of steamships is very large. Try to 
secure your berths some weeks in advance of sail- 
ing; a deposit of $25 is in most cases sufficient, 
and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to 
take the ship" although you may generally post- 
pone your departure by giving prompt notice of 
your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special 
rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usually ex- 
cepted. 

Among the lines specially to be recommended are 
the White Star, New York to Liverpool, calling at 
Queenstown, every Wed. (fares, $75 to $225) ; from 
.Boston to Liverpool, via Queenstown, once a month 
on Sat. ($60 and up); Mediterranean service from 
"Boston and N.Y. every otherSat. (Naples, $75to$100). 
The Cunard, N. Y. to Liverpool, via Queenstown, 
Sat. ($65 to $250); from Boston to Liverpool. Tues. 
($65 to $150); Mediterranean service trom N. Y. to 



THE OCEAN JOURNEY xi 

Naples and Trieste ($70 and up). American (only 
line sailing under the American flag) steamers sail 
every Sat. for Southampton, with tickets to London, 
or Paris via Cherbourg ($90 to $125 in summer, $75 
to $100 in winter ; also from Philadelphia every Wed. 
for Queenstown and Liverpool ($40 up). North 
German Lloyd express steamers for Bremen (calling 
at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Tues. ; twin-screw pas- 
senger steamers for Bremen (also calling at Plymouth 
and Cherbourg), Thurs. ($150, scaling down to $75); 
Mediterranean service every Sat. or second Sat. 
direct to Gibraltar and Genoa or Naples ($150, $100, 
$80) . Hamburg -American express steamers to Ham- 
burg (calling at Plymouth and Cherbourg) every 
Thurs., and special sailings by twin-screw steamer 
" Deutschland" during the season (summer $100 up, 
winter $55 up) ; regular service to Plymouth, Cher- 
bourg and Hamburg every Sat., and special sailings 
during the summer (summer $75 up, winter $65 up) ; 
Mediterranean winter service to Gibraltar, Genoa and 
Naples ($65 up). Transatlantique steamers sail 
every Thurs. to Havre direct ($140, $100, $75, in- 
cluding wine). 

Other popular lines are the Holland- America, 
every Wed. to Rotterdam via Boulogne ($65 up) ; 
Red Star, from N. Y. to Antwerp every Sat. ($55 to 
$110); Atlantic Transport, N. Y. to London, every 
Sat. ($55 up); Anchor, every Sat., to Glasgow ($50, 
$60, $75, or by special steamer, occasional sailings, 
$60, $80, $100) ; Scandinavian-American, to Den- 
mark, Norway and Sweden direct, Thurs. (summer 
$60, $65, winter $50. $55) ; Wilson, N. Y. to Hull, 
occasional sailings, $40. 

The choice, as you see, is varied enough to suit 
any purse, and the accommodation on even the most 



xfi A CHAPTER ON TRAYEL. 

inexpensive of the ships is good. For information 
as to sailings of these steamships from European 
ports for home, consult the list of sailings issued 
by the various Ss. Co.'s and the daily journals. 

The question of Baggage for a European tour is 
very important. Our advice is to take with you in 
any case one large, stoutly built American trunk, 
plainly marked with your name, place of abode, etc. 
Have it well hooped about, and see that it possesses 
a capital lock. Into this put everything that you 
are certain not to require onthe ocean voyage. Then 
pack such articles as you will need either in a roomy 
valise or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built 
so that they will go under a berth, which may be had 
at any trunk-maker's. Ladies will find these ' ' cab- 
in trunks " almost indispensable. Take with you 
plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in 
travelling on the Continent always to have over- 
coats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them 
as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scot- 
land and North Germany. When you reach 
Liverpool, if you intend to return by that port, 
you can leave your cabin- trunk stored at a hotel 
or steamship office, if you think you will not re- 
quire it. Then have your large trunk sent from 
point to point where you may need it, but travel 
on all short excursions, trips of two or three days, 
etc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot 
carry in your hands. Eve~ vf a valise is rather vol- 
uminous, vou can take it into railway carriages 
with you all over the Continent- It is not wise to 
restrict one's self in amount of baggage ; while the 
rates for overweight are high in some countries they 
are low in others. In Great Britain you can carry 



THE OCEAN JOURNEY. xiil 

almost anything except a house with you and no ques- 
tions are asked. A good portion of the equipment of 
a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival 
in Europe. He would better bring his American over- 
coats, bat hats, shoes, rugs, linen, etc., can be had 
to advantage in Great Britain or France. Besides, by 
wearing European hats and shoes you will save money. 
It is a mistake to say that a man is known by the com- 
pany he keeps ; he is known by his hat and shoes. 
They are the distinguishing marks of his make-up. 
Travelling suits for gentlemen should be modest in 
color ; black clothes are handy when one arrives at a 
fashionable watering-place or a large town, and even- 
ing dress is highly necessary in London in the season, 
and in long stops in other cities it is of course fre- 
quently required. We shall not venture to offer the 
ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat 
our injunction concerning plenty of wraps, and to hint 
that thin shoes should not be worn in travel. 
Ulsters and linen dusters should be avoided ; the 
ulster, outside the British Islands or at sea, looks 
odd and is useless. A waterproof coat is extremely 
useful. An umbrella, stout enough to serve the 
purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woolen socks 
and thick-soled shoes are the things for travel. 
Travelling suits for gentlemen cost in Great Britain or 
France about one third as much as in America. They 
are not made so well, nor of such good material as our 
own, but they are very serviceable. 

On the Steamship Voyage keep m the open air as 
much as possible. If you suffer continuously from sea- 
sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the 
adjustable steamer chairs, to be provided by yourself, 



xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

remain in recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but 
do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except 
when at meals or in very rough weather. The deck 
steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary. 
If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head to- 
ward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain 
so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense appli- 
cation to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep- 
and when you reach land you will be amazed to 
observe how you are rested. Avoid late suppers. 
Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you 
are approaching land the question of stewards' fees 
will come up. We should say give the steward who 
waits on you at table lUs. ; your berth-room steward 
somewhat less, according to the trouble you have 
made him, and the deck steward about 5s. ; the 
"boots" and bath-man must be remembered if you 
have been served by them. But if you cannot afford 
so much, give less; the servants expect something, 
but they never grumble at the amount. 

Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You go 
off in a tug, which transports you up the bay from 
Roches Point (see Ireland). Customs formalities 
same as on 

Landing at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists 
to leave the steamers at Queenstown, and go through 
Ireland first, but we feel convinced that large numbers 
of them will proceed to Liverpool. The landing ar- 
rangements at this great port are not so perfect as 
they might be, and have recently suffered some small 
alterations. Passengers formerly left the steamers 
in tugs, and came up to the Prince's Landing Stage, 
where there is a kind of custom-house, and where they 
were usually kept waitii^ ..bout an hour. Now ships 
usually go into dock before discharging passengers. 



The custom-house officers search for cigars and 
spirits only; if you have neither, you will soon have 
your "luggage" on a cab or dray, and be on your 
way to the North Western or Midland Railway 
stations, or to your hoteL 



Money — A Word of Explanation. 

In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings, 
and pence (£ s. d.). In France, Belgium, Switzer- 
land, Italy and Spain there is a decimal currency. 
In the first three countries the reckoning is in 
francs and centimes; in Italy it is in lire ana 
centesimi ; in Spain, pesetas, reales and centimos. 
But gold coins of any of the five above-named 
countries circulate freely in all of them. 
The French twenty-franc piece, called napoleon, or 
louis, is current money anywhere in the Continent. 
In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and 
cents. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 
cents of our money. In Germany the reckoning is 
in marks and pfennigs. The mark is about 24 
cents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. When 
you give one pfennig to a begs-ar, he never troubles 
you again. In Austria you must reckon in gulden 
and kreutzers. The gulden is 40.6 cents of our 
money, and is divided into 100 kreutzers. In Austria 
there is now a new system in which the unit is a 
crown, which is equivalent to a fraction over 20 cents 
of our money, divided into 100 heller. You will 
observe that in giving the local railway fares in these 
different countries, we have used abbreviations : 
Pounds, shillings, pence, £, s., d. ; francs and centi- 
mes, fr., c. ; lire and centesimi, 1., c. ; pesetas, p. ; etc. 
In Portugal the money is counted in reis, of which it 



X yi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

takes ten to make one cent. In Russia rubles and 
kopeks are the money. The gold coins most in use 
on the lines of travel which you are likely to take 
are sovereigns and half-sovereigns (English) ; — the 
guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still 
used in reckoning ; — twenty, ten and five franc 
pieces ; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces. In Sweden, 
Xorway and Denmark the krone ($0,268) is the basis 
of reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian or 
Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose 
very heavily on it. English, French and German 
bank notes are as good as gold. The French have 
notes of fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and one 
thousand francs, and these are extremely convenient 
to carry on the Continent, but they are not current 
in other countries. (See Comparative Table of 
Moneys following title-page.) 

Railway Travel. — You will find first, second, 
and third class everywhere (save upon the English 
Midland Railway and a section of the Great 
Northern, which * have no second class) ; and we 
have given the fares for each class in all cases when 
practicable. Express trains on the Continent have 
no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all 
trains have it. First-class is best for long jour- 
neys , second good enough for short ones ; and 
third worth taking now and then, particularly in 
England and Germany, for the purpose of study- 
ing the common people. Second-class in Germany 
and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class 
in England and France. On a long journey from 
France into Germany, you may frequently take 
"a mixed" ticket with advantage, i. e., first 
in France and second in Germany. A erentle- 



A WORD OF EXPLANATION xvii 

man traveling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue 
may take third-class through from London to Glasgow 
or Edinburgh, or from London to Liverpool, saving 
just half the sum he Avould expend in first-class. la 
England and Great Britain, generally, people speak 
of "taking" a ticket and "booking" a place. The 
" booking-office " is where, the tickets are sold. The 
conductor is called the " guard." This phraseology 
appears to have been left over from the old coaching 
days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" care- 
fully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you pro- 
pose to leave in the "luggage van," and when you 
reach your destination, be on hand to claim your 
things. There is no checking system. Small bags, 
wraps, etc. can always be left in a "cloak room" at 
any railway station for hours or days. Fees trivial. 
Employes are civil and obliging, but all expect small 
compensation. Do not make the mistake, either in Great 
Britain or on the Continent, of giving large gratuities. 
In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided 
on every train; in Erance and some other Latin 
countries smoking is permissible, by general consent, 
in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only ; 
in Italy, only in smoking compartments ; in the Ger- 
manic lands smoking is wellnigh universal, although 
every train has its damen-coupe, and its compartments 
Fur nichtraucher. The coupes, or end compartments 
with windows in front, — another survival of diligence 
and coach customs, — may be hired at reasonable 
charges above the first-class fares, and should generally 
be engaged beforehand at the station. In Erance and 
Middle Europe generally the tariff is about 16 francs per 
seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going 
through from Paris to Cologne, or commg from Nice 
to Paris, will find a coupejworth taking, Do not 



xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

trust too implicitly to information furnished by rail- 
road and steamship officials, for it may be mislead- 
ing. Among R. R. guide books, " Bradshaw," price 
6d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix 
" Guide des Chemins de Fer de l'Europe " will do for 
the Continent. It contains all that may be found in 
the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland, 
etc., costs only 40 cents, and is corrected several times 
yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, from 
which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of 
the lines along which you travel. On excursions, re- 
member that return tickets can generally be had at a 
discount from the regular fares. Return tickets are 
usually available only on the day on which they are 
sold, and by the first train of the next. Saturday 
tickets, however, generally extend until the first Mon- 
day train. On the Continent the terms for returns 
are much more liberal than in Great Britain. " Cir- 
cular tickets" are issued in nearly all countries, and 
ample information concerning them is given at rail- 
way stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers. 
There is usually a saving — (there is certainly great 
convenience) — in buying these circular tickets, espe- 
cially to those who, for example, wish to go from 
Paris to Switzerland, and after visiting that country 
to return directly to France. There is a great variety 
of excursion tickets and hotel-coupon arrangements, 
by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do 
not care to explore their own routes, may be aided in 
travelling, passing all over the Continent and the 
Levant under efficient chaperonage. Prominent 
among these is the agency of Messrs. Thos. Cook 
& Sons, Messrs. Raymond & Whitcomb, and Messrs. 
Henry Gaze & Sons. There are sleeping -curs 



RAILWAYS. XIX 

on many English and Continental lines ; in 
Great Britain are like our own; on the Conti- 
nent the ' ' Mann Boudoir Car " is in use. This 
latter is very comfortable, but the rates are extrava- 
gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons- 
lits, ''bed- wagons," in most Continental countries; 
their office in Paris is No. 2 Rue Scribe. Between 
Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and 
Turin and Florence, and often Rome also, Paris 
and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular 
sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger 
and more elegant than the other Continental ones; 
and in Russia and Switzerland a modified Ameri- 
can railway-carriage, in which, however, class dis- 
tinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of 
baggage carried free in France, Spain, and Sweden 
is 66 pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hun- 
gary, Holland and Russia, 55 pounds ; in Great 
Britain, any reasonable amount ; in South Germany, 
Belgium, Italy and Switzerland, there is no free bag- 
gage, but the rates are not extravagant. In some 
parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great 
complaints that baggage has been plundered in 
transit by baggage-masters and trainmen; hence 
the necessity for first-rate locks already men- 
tioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded 
to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, 
the railway companies generally insist on this, 
and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely 
fastened. In all Continental countries, when your 
baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and 
the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the 
trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, 
you must have a receipt. In some cases, in going 
from an important city in one country to an impor- 
tant city in another, your baggage can be "registered 
through," and examined when it reaches destinations 



~XX A CHAPTER, ON TRAVEL. 

in others, although registered through, it' must be ex- 
amined at the frontier. The examination is a pure 
formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth- 
ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees 
to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with 
prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German 
and Swiss railway depots, apply to the portier for 
information. In Italy the railway facchini are paid 
according to tariff, — 4 soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a 
bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, 
etc. In Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and 
3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland, 
Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very good; in 
other countries they are excellent. On long journeys 
curry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, 
where fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open-air 
markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very 
dear. In Italy and Eussia a window on the wind- 
ward side of a railway carriage cannot be kept 
open if any person in the compartment objects. 

Hotel Expenses 

must naturally vary much according to taste and in- 
come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully 
selected, and we believe that the houses recommended 
will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an ex- 
pensive country by comparison with Switzerland or 
Italy; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns 
and country cheap. The American will notice with 
some surprise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no 
longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live 
even carefully at a first class-hotel in any part of Great 
Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a 
half daily, divided somewhat as follows : breakfast, 



HOTEL EXPENSES. Xxi 

from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three 
and six; lunch, about same price; dinner, without 
wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight 
and six, and invariably one and six for attendance. 
Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the 
United- States. There are, however, good hotels, 
where you may live at about ten shillings daily; 
and private boarding-houses in the large cities 
where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — 
rarely under ten. A person very economically 
inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but 
not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may 
calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine 
or sup and sleep, and take early breakfast there, your 
bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days 
you may manage not to spend more than from ten 
to fourteen francs daily. In large capitals, simply 
take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. 
The others can be had to suit your purse and con- 
venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzerland, 
and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hote are cheaper 
than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in 
a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in 
Europe. Travellers should carry th<ur own soap 
and toilet paper. Washing can usually be dor>3 
within 24 hours in all countries. W 7 hen you buy 
a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the num- 
ber of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the 
portier at Continental hotels ; he will be useful. Give 
one of your dining-room waiters something, but give 
to only one. Never mind the head waiter's sardonic 
frown. In France you will save money by taking your 
meals at the hours when the natives take theirs; out 
of hours you pay special prices. By asking for "ice- 



xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

water," you can now get it almost everywhere 
In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, and 
dilute them with water, except at evening. The 
vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all coun- 
tries. Examine your bills, and don't allow over- 
charges. Ommbu3 from station is generally 
charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small 
fee when you go away. Insist on having your 
bill when you ask tor it. You will find English 
spoken in almost ah hotels. You can always 
post letters and generally send telegrams from 
your hotel, unless in some small country town. 
Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European coun- 
tries. Before leaving America tell your friends 
to write to you, care of your bankers in London 
or Paris ; if you keep your bankers advised of 
your address you will never miss a mail. Reg 
ister your name at the London and Paris offices 
of your banter's; and you may thus find friends 
or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. 
In Paris, you will find the larger bankers well pro- 
vided with post-offices, reading-rooms, and informa- 
tion about travel. If you need a courier (but you 
really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the 
address of one. Couriers are expensive luxuries. 

We think all necessary information about cabs will 
be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to 
be avoided as much as possible. In some places they 



CAUTIONS. xxiii 

are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes 
and streams you may usually take free about twice 
as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bar- 
gains beforehand for private carriages. 

A few Cautions as to small matters may not be 
out of place. Should you go shopping on the Con- 
tinent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland, 
or Italy, try to make up your mind from your in- 
spection of an article in the windows whether you 
want it or not. The window is really the shop ; 
everything is plainly marked, and if you go in 
and come out again without buying, the skopkeeper 
considers that you have made him waste his time, 
and does not conceal his disappointment from you. 
Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and 
inspect the inventory made of them before you move 
in. Do not violate any regulations, municipal or 
general, however trivial and useless they may seem, 
for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at 
the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to 
go, otherwise you will be badly placed. After climb- 
ing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take 
cold; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole 
summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, 
and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In 
passing from sunshine to shade, gather your garments 
about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants iii France 
and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you 
would in America, but in Great Britain and Germany 
and Austria keep them at a distance; they do not un- 
derstand democracy, and would impose upon you. If 
you go to Sipost.e restante (general delivery post-office), 
present your name plainly written or printed on a card. 
In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts, 



xxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

"do not lose your temper if the local officials are a 
little curious about your movements. In case of 
sudden illness in France, Italy or Switzerland, call 
an American or English physician, if you can find 
one. Failing that, a local physician who has had 
practice among foreigners is better than one who has 
not. 

Language is not po great a barrier to communica- 
tion as is imagined. If you get into a corner of 
Europe where no tongue that you can speak is under- 
stood, use English just as if the people knew what it 
meant, and make si^ns. You will get on famously. 
The little list of phrases at the end of this volume 
may be found an aid to those who have some 
familiarity with those languages most spoken in 
Europe. On general principles, however, it is better 
to use what little y~>u know of a foreign language 
than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to 
know more than yot» express, and you will make 
better bargains. 

Go to the United Skates Consul for information 
when you are really in d^ubt and need advice. Not 
even then, if he is a political appointee and net a 
practical man. In the latter case only is he likely to 
have that acquaintance with the language, laws and 
customs of the place, whereby he can aid you;, whi!e r 
if he has an important office ^nd attends to it, ha 
has little time for strangers wui^ w-Oin© without *< 
business reason for their call. 



GOLFING-CYCLING. xxv 

Golfing. 

Tne opportunties for golf on the Continent have 
greatly increased during the past few years, many of 
the hotels in the resorts largely patronised by English 
and Americans having had links laid out. Golf 
clubs having more or less desirable courses have been 
established in the following places: — Belgium — 
Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France 
— Aix-les-Bains, Arc'achon, Argeles, Beaulieu-sur- 
Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, Dieppe, 
Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, Paris, Pau, 
St. -Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite (Pornichet Sta- 
tion) ; Germany — Baden-Baden, Berlin, Bremen, 
Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; Gibraltar; Holland 
— Arnheim, Doom, Haarlem, Hague, Hilversum, 
Leenwarden; Italy — Como, Florence, Rome, San 
Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, Varese; Portugal — Oporto; 
Russia — Moscow, St. Petersburg; Sweden — Gothen- 
burg; Switzerland — Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden. 

Cycling. 

The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the 
Continent are those due to the customs regulations in 
the different countries. At nearly every frontier the 
tourist is obliged to pay the regular duty imposed 
upon wheels imported for sale, but on leaving the 
country this duty is refunded. The following is the 
deposit required in each country, the amount in each 
case being reduced to its American equivalent: 
Austria, $10; the tourist must swear to a declaration 
that he intends to remain only temporarily in the 
country, and that his wheel is not for sale; on leav- 
ing the country the deposit will be refunded; Bel- 
gium, 12 per cent, ad valorem; if intending to leave 
the country, by rail, the tourist must write in ad- 
vance to the custom-house official at the frontier, en- 



xxvi A CHAPTEB ON TRAVEL. 

closing receipt and stating on what train he will pass 
through; the money will then be refunded when the 
frontier is reached. Denmark, 10 per cent, ad 
valorem; special permit must be obtained if tourist 
intends to leave through another custom house; a 
lead seal must be attached to the wheel as a receipt. 
England, free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead 
seal is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the 
tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, free 
for tourists ; in this country bicycles will not be 
taken on the express trains. Holland, free for 
tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per pound. 
Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem; a seal required as 
in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and permit re- 
quired as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per pound; and 
in addition the tourist must obtain a special pass 
good for six months, for which 20 cents is charged ; 
the frontier officials are sometimes exacting, and it 
may be wise to secure the services of a custom-house 
broker. Sweden and Norway, 25 and 30 kr. respect- 
ively ; if the tourist intends to enter the country 
through any but the principal custom houses he must 
obtain a permit from the Director General of Cus- 
toms, and he must leave the country by the same 
route that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if 
he remains over sixty days ; Switzerland, 6c. per lb. 
Any American wheelman intending to voiir on the 
Continent, if ho is not already a member of the 
L. A. W., should join that organization, as it gives 
him many privileges. The governments of Italy, 
Belgium and Switzerland now permit touring mem- 
bers of the L. A. W. to pass their respective frontiers 
without making a deposit. There is also an alliance 
between the League and the Cyclists' Touring Club 
of Great Britain, whereby a member of one may be 
admitted to temporary membership in the other 
without ext^ fee,. The Touring Club de France 



AUTOMOBILING xxvii 

may also be joined by League members at slight ex- 
pense, and with membership in those two clubs one 
obtains road books free, reduction in rates at hotels, 
and many other advantages. 

The wheel should be provided with a brake, a bell 
or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed for the 
steamship very strongly and not merely crated ; a 
bicycle trunk, though expensive, is advisable. There 
is a charge for freight on most lines. If the tourist 
has the precaution to take a second chain and extra 
nuts, together with a serviceable repair kit, he may 
be spared much vexation and loss of time and 
money. 

Automobile Regulations. 

The steamship companies insist that automobiles be 
crated before being accepted for transportation to or 
from Europe. The expense of this is about $100, but 
the box can be stored with the steamship company or 
the forwarding company and used for t he return voy- 
age. The channel steamers between Great Britain 
and the Continent have every facility for carrying 
uncrated cars without risk. The motoring tourist 
should always have with him a passport, an official 
certificate of his ability as a driver, and a maker's 
certificate giving date of sale, value, weight, type of 
car, capacity, etc. It will be to his advantage in 
many ways to become a member of the Touring Club 
of France. The following is a synopsis of the custom 
house rules and police regulations in the most fre- 
quented countries of Europe: 

France. — The duty is at the rate of 50 francs for 
each 100 kilogrammes, if the car weighs more than 
125 kilogrammes (275 lbs.), and 120 francs if it 
weighs less than this. The amount must be deposited 
on entering the country, and will be refunded when 
leaving the country (within six months) on presenta- 



xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

tion of the deposit receipt at the frontier. The speed 
limit is thirty kilometres (about 19 miles) in the 
country, 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in villages; 
in narrow roads or streets the car must not exceed 
the speed of a man walking. These rules are not 
strictly enforced if the car seems to be under com- 
plete control. At night a white and a green light 
must be displayed in front. 

Germany. — The duty is 230 marks, which is sel- 
dom demanded if the driver has a passport and can 
prove that the car has been in his possession a rea- 
sonable time. The amount paid will be refunded 
when the car leaves the country. The regulations 
vary in different towns and parts of the empire; in 
many places certain streets are forbidden to automo- 
biles, and in one little principality at least the en- 
trance of motor cars into the capital is not allowed 
when the ruler is "in residence." 

Holland. — The duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem, re- 
payable on leaving the country; it is seldom exacted 
unless the car is manifestly new. The speed limit is 
20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in the country, 8 kil- 
ometres (5 miles) in villages, over bridges, down 
hill, at night, and in foggy weather. A permit must 
be obtained from the Secretary of Public Works and 
must be countersigned at the custom house; blank 
permits may be had from the Netherlands Automo- 
bile Club, The Hague, on payment of 4.20 gulden 
(50 cts.), Every car must carry two lights and a 
horn or bell respectively visible and audible 350 feet. 

Belgium. — A duty of 12 per cent, ad valorem, re- 
payable at the frontier when leaving the country, is 
required. Lamps and horns are required, cars must 
proceed slowly in towns and when crossing bridges, 
and in all cases must be under control and must not 
exceed a reasonable speed. 

Great Britain and Ireland. — There is no duty 
on automobiles. Lights and sound signals are re- 



AUTOMOBILING xxix 

quired and a reasonable speed must not be exceeded. 
To avoid accidents the driver must observe the rule 
of the road and pass to the left instead of the right. 

Switzerland. — The duty is 20 francs per 100 kil- 
ogrammes, repayable when leaving the country. 
Each car must carry a white and a green light in 
front and a red light behind, a good horn, and two 
brakes, each one capable of stopping the car within 
two metres (33 feet) on a decline or when ruuning at 
full legal speed. The speed must not exceed 30 kil- 
ometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 10 kilometres 
(6£ miles) in cities and towns or on mountain roads, 
and 6 kilometres (3'f miles) on bridges, in narrow 
streets, and whenever warning signs demand it. The 
car must stop when meeting a horse that appears 
frightened or when a government stage-coach is met. 
There are a number of other regulations, some of 
them vexatious and unreasonable. Indeed, automo- 
biles are unpopular in Switzerland, and in case of 
accident, no matter where the blame lies, the motor 
driver is usually held accountable. A permit is 
necessary unless the owner has Dne from his own 
government and that government is one which recip- 
rocates in this respect with Switzerland. 

Austria. — The duty is 130 kroner (about $26) for 
the car and 18 kr. ($3.50) for every 100 kilogrammes 
(220 lbs.) weight of the motor. This sum is refunded 
when the owner leaves Austrian territory, 

Italy.— The duty varies from 200 lire ($38.60) for 
a car weighing up to 500 kilos (1.200 lbs.) to 600 lire 
(115.80) for one weighing over 1000 kilos (2,400 lbs.) 
The amount will be refunded on leaving the country 
within six months. The driver must obtain a permit 
within five days, either on the basis of reciprocity, if 
that exists with the country granting his original 
licence, or after proving to the authorities by actual 
test that he is a competent driver. 

Russia. — There is a vexatious amount of red tape 



xxx A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

to unravel in order to drive a motor ear into Russia. 
A special permit must be obtained from the Secretary 
of Finance, an^ one who gets the permit within a 
week of his applanation is to be congratulated. The 
application for the permit, which must be made on 
stamped paper (80 kopeks, about 40 cents), must 
state how long the driver expects to be in Russia, at 
what town the car will enter, and from what town it 
will leave the country. The duty paid will be re- 
funded some time or other, but usually not until 
some weeks after the car has left the country. ^ 

Spain. — The duty paid is refunded on leaving the 
country. The speed ] aws are not irksome. 

Denmark. — No carty is required if the owner 
makes declaration that he is touring and intends to 
make only a temporary stay in the country. 

Reimportation into the United States.— The 
regulations of the U. S. Treasury Department pro- 
vide that the owner of an automobile of foreign 
manufacture on which duties have been paid may, 
after its identification and the issue of a certificate by 
customs officers on his application, take it abroad 
for touring purposes, with the right of free entry on 
its return with him or within thirty days after him, 
provided that no repairs, improvements, or additions 
were made to the automobile, except absolutely neces- 
sary repairs costing not more than 10 per cent, of 
the original appraised value. Cars of American 
manufacture will be admitted on their return free 
of duty, provided that they shall not have been ad- 
vanced in value or improved in condition and that 
all repairs made thereto were absolutely necessary 
and did not cost more than 10 per cent, of the 
original price of the car ; and provided further that 
it shall be shown that the accessories are those taken 
abroad under the certificate. 

Customs Regulations 

All persons on their arrival in the United States 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxt 

are required to make a declaration of dutiable articles 
obtained by them abroad. The declaration will be 
verified on the pier by careful examination of the 
contents of the packages. 

The senior member of a family may include all the 
members thereof in his or her declaration. 

State the exact number of pieces of baggage in 
which your effects are contained. 

Give the cost or foreign value of each dutiable 
article. 

As far as practicable, keep your original receipted 1 
bills for all purchases of any importance during your 
stay abroad. 

When packing your baggage for your return trip, 
it would be well to prepare a list of articles so pur- 
chased, with the prices paid for each. 

If these articles are so placed in your trunks that 
you can easily find and exhibit them for appraise- 
ment, much time and inconvenience will be saved. 

Each person is entitled to bring in fifty cigars or 
three hundred cigarettes for his own use. All cigars 
and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than 
three thousand are liable to seizure, but in meritori- 
ous cases may be released by the payment of a fine 
' equal to the duty and the internal revenue tax. 

Duties will be assessed at the foreign market 
values at the time of exportation with due allowance 
for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare duti- 
able articles in your possession will render the same 
liable to seizure and confiscation and you to criminal 
prosecution. 

In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values 
placed upon dutiable articles, they have the privilege 
to demand a re-examination, but application therefor 
should be immediately made to the deputy collector 
at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable, 
the packages containing the articles should be left in 
tustoms custody and application for re-appraisement 
made to the collector at the custom house in writing 



XXxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

within two days after the original appraisement. 
No request for re-appraisement can be entertained 
after the articles have been removed from customs 
custody. 

Baggage intended for delivery at another port 
may ite forwarded thereto upon application, without 
the assessment of duty at the port of arrival. 

Any baggage or personal effects in transit through 
the United States to any foreign country may on 
application be forwarded to the port of departure. 
The officer taking your declaration will advise you 
on this point. 

Representatives of various railroads and express 
companies will be found on the pier and will take 
charge of your baggage and forward it to destination 
if desired. 

Government officers are forbidden by law to accept 
anything but currency in payment of duties, but if 
requested will retain baggage on the pier for twenty- 
four hours to enable the owner to secure the cur- 
rency. 

It is unlawful for customs officers to receive any 
* l tip" or gratuity, and to offer the same is a violation 
of law. 

Passengers are requested promptly to report to the 
Secretary of the Treasury, the cpflector at the custom 
house or to the deputy collector at the pier any dis- 
courtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers. 

A resident of the United States returning thereto 
is entitled to bring with him, free of duty, personal 
effects taken abroad by him as baggage, provided 
they have not been remodelled or improved abroad 
80 as to increase their value, and, in addition thereto, 
articles purchased or otherwise obtained abroad, of ft 
total value not exceeding $100. Such articles must 
be wearing apparel of the person bringing them or 
for personal use on the voyage. 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxiii 

(To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as 
a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are in- 
structed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey 
and the actual ownership of the goods. Either the 
presence of an unusual amount of any class of highly 
dutiable merchandise or frequent and hasty journeys 
is sufficient to raise the presumption of bad faith. 
Such cases will be subject to most careful scrutiny 
and prosecution.) 

All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from 
duty or otherwise, should be declared, and an allow- 
ance of $100 for articles obtained abroad will be 
made by the deputy collector upon the pier. 

Non-residents of the United States are entitled to 
bring with them as baggage free of duty all wearing 
apparel, articles of personal adornment, toilet articles 
and similar personal effects in actual use and neces- 
sary and appropriate for the wear and use of such 
persons and their present comfort and convenience, 
not intended for other persons or for sale. 

Non-residents for the purposes of customs admin- 
istration are divided into three classes: 

First — Actual residents of other countries. 

Second — Persons who have been abroad for the 
purpose of study, restoration of health, or for other 
specific objects, and have had a fixed foreign abode 
for one year or more. 

Third — Persons who have been abroad for two 
years or more for any purpose whatever, and who 
have had during that time a fixed place of abode for 
one year or more. 

Household effects of persons or families from for- 
eign countries will be admitted free of duty if actu- 
ally used abroad by them not less than one year, and 
not intended for any other person or for sale. 

The law expressly forbids the importation into the 
United States of garments made in whole or in part 



xxxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

of the skins of prohibited fur seals, and unless the 
owner is able to establish by competent evidence and 
to the satisfaction of the Collector either that the 
garments were purchased prior to December 29, 1897, 
or that the animals from which the skin was taken 
was captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters, 
entry will not be allowed. 

Residents who desire to take sealskin garments 
abroad may have the same registered with the Col- 
lector. 



THE COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. 



IRELAND. 



THE majority of American visitors to Europe go 
first to Great Britain, leaving a tour through 
the picturesque and interesting island of Ireland 
among the possibilities of the last days of their pil- 
grimage. Our own impression is that those who 
go abroad as early as May or June would do better 
to land at Queenstown, if their ships stop there, and 
make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, and 
quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow, or via 
Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel 
to Holyhead in 4 hrs., and going from Holyhead 
to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the 
English Lake District, or to London, as best suits 
their humor. Thousands of persons return to the 
United States without having set foot in Ireland. 
They intended to go there ; but after their long season 
of travel on the Continent they get back to London 
somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, 
and the result is that they hasten to take ship forf 
home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of ' 
its coast and the round towers which cap its highest 
cliffs. 



* QUEENSTOWN 

Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our ob-,' 
ject is to show the tourist how he may spend those! 
days to advantage in that country. The steamships 
of the Cunard and White Star lines call at Queens- 
town, coming from and going to New York, Boston 
and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers 
with their baggage from Roches Point, where the 
steamers stop, up to the town proper ; and the noble 
port with its green water, the verdant hills crowned 
with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- 
tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which 
white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to 
ike eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen 
nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him 
over. 

Queenstowii (Queen's Hotel) is on Great Island, 
which lies in the magnificent bay or arm of the sea 
into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town 
was formerly called the " Cove of Cork," and received 
its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. 
It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the 
shore ; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine Protestant 
church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids 
are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness 
of its climate. Kev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the 
famous lines on the burial of Sir John Moore, died of 
consumption here in 1823, and is buried on the island. 
The immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford 
shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in 
its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts 
on either side the channel of entrance. On bpike Island 
is Fort Westmoreland commanding entrance to harbor. 
Hawlbowline Island contains ordnance stores and an 
armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6 
huge chambers, holding 10,000 barrel of gunpowder, 



IRELAND 3 

and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork 
Harbor and Crosshaven Creek that Drake retreated 
when the Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing* him. He 
succeeded in hiding his ships so effectually at a spot 
known to this day as Brake s Pool, that the supersti- 
tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic. 

There are three routes from Queeustown to Cork: 
by rail all the way (Is. 2d., 9d., or 6d.) ; by steamer 
to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above) ; 
or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick's Bridge. 
" It would be difficult," wrote Sir John Forbes, " to 
overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to 
Queeustown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay 
in which it terminates, more especially when these are 
seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant 
sky." At Monkstown, at a point where the river Lee 
widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in ruins. 

Cork {Imperial Hotel ; Royal Victoria; Commercial ; 
and others), the "capital of the South," has a popula- 
tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the 
river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The 
Irish name of Cork signifies " a swamp," and well de- 
scribes the location of the town. The Grand Parade, 
the South Mall, Great George's-St , Mardyke, and St. 
Patrick's-St, on which stands a statue of Father Mathew, 
are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a 
handsome quadrangular structure in the Tudor-Gothic 
style, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the 
stream. St. Ann's Ch. is the most interesting edifice 
in Cork. It contains the " bells of Shandon," of which 
Father Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built 
in 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which 
are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high, 
and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey 
<Fhere James II. had once heard mass, and from the 



4 CORK. — BLARNEY CASTLE. 

ruins of a castle which had been the official residence 
of the lords-president of Minister. The Ch. of the 
Holy Trinity, founded by Father Mathew, who bega* 
his career as an apostle of temperance in Cork, is wor. 
thy a visit ; and so is the Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar. 
This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen 
temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading 
Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with 
walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at 
the close of the 15th century, because it had received 
Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors. 
The charter was restored in 1609. Cromwell's cruel- 
ties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still 
related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder 
of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in 
Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one 
Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II. 
in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of 
Desmond ; but the English invaders were harassed for 
centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment 
of independent Irish nationality seems even nowadays 
conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The love- 
ly Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way 
to Blarney Castle. 

Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail 
in 16 min. But the best plan is to take a jaunting-cai 
(about 3s. there and back) by the road on ^e N. bank 
of the river. The distance is 5 M. Connac M'Carthy 
built the massive donjon tower, 120 ft. high, and the 
lower portion, in the 15th century; and the famous 
Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription Cormach 
Mac Cart hy Fortis Mi Fieri Fecit A. D. 1446, now 
illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting 
buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. angle, sev« 
$ral ft. below the level of the wall, so that the persoa 



IRELAND. 5 

dio wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and 
project his body forward in most risky fashion. An- 
other stone, marked " 1703," stands within the towei 
in a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. "The 
Blarney Stone," says Black's Picturesque Tourist of 
Ireland, " had long been a byword among the Irish : 
it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tongues 
of the natives of this locality were' supposed to be not 
the ordinary gift of Nature. But it had not reached 
its full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when 
Milliken wrote his well-known song of ' The Groves of 
Blarney.' A curious tradition attributes to the stone 
the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the 
sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible 
in the language of the Cork people, and which is usu- 
ally termed Blarney" There is an odd story about 
Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet of water, \ M. from the 
castle. It is said that the Earl of Clancarty, who for- 
feited the property at the Revolution, sank all his fam- 
ily plate in a certain part of this lake ; that three of thf 
M'Carthys inherit the secret of the place where thi 
treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communi 
cates it to another of the family, and thus perpetuate!* 
the secret, which is never to be made public until a 
M'Carthy is again Lord of Blarney. 

Other Excursions from Cork. — To Rostellan 
Castle and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer to 
Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an ancient 
sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihme, the 
ancestor of the O'Briens. A.t Cloyne there is a 14th 
century cathedral and a noted "round tower." — To 
J'oughal and the Blackioater. This excursion may be 
made in a single day by taking an early train from 
Cork to Youghal (28 M.), whence a steamer up the 
beautwl Blackwater River to Cappoquin, above whicl 



6 LAKES OF KILLARNEY 

point the stream is not navigable. At Youghal 
(Hotel : Devonshire Arms) is the " Warden's House," 
the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588-89. It 
was there that he entertained Spenser when the poet 
was preparing his "Faerie Queene" for publication. It 
was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted 
in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the traveller 
may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of 
the most ancient towns in Ireland, twice daily (Sundays 
excepted). Castle of the Duke of Devonshire, on the 
site of the old University ; visitors admitted. From 
Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ; 
from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 min. ; and from Mallow he 
may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or 
may go to Killarney. 

Killarney. The Lakes, and Lake Region. 

The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail, 
via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs., 68f M. (lls.6d., 
8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the shortest, but the least inter- 
esting route. For those pressed for time, it is the 
best. By leaving Cork late in the afternoon one may 
reach Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and, 
starting early on the following morning, may visit the 
most attractive points in the region, getting back to 
Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dub- 
lin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour 
will find themselves well repaid for taking either of the 
two routes via GlenganfT. One of these leads from 
Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunmanway, and 
thence by coach to GlengarifiE"(i?oc7ie's Hotel; Eccles\ 
thence to Kenmare (Lansdowne Arms), and so on 
through a barren and wild, but picturesque country, 
across the mts., and down to Killarney. The most 



IRELAND. 7 

extensive view of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, 
and rich with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from 
Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge. The 
beautiful grounds around Glengariff Castle are worth a 
visit. From Glengariff the journey may be extended to 
Bantry Bay, either by land or water. The latter way is 
preferable, affording an excellent view of the bold coast 
scenery. But we would recommend none of these ex- 
cursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely 
favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish wet day 
by the sea. The route from Cork to Macroom by rail, 
24 M., and thence by jaunting-car to Glengariff, Ken- 
mare, and Killarney, is highly spoken of by travellers 
who have recently taken it. Both these above-mentioned 
ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will 
take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from 
Cork to Killarney, in one day, but does not pass through 
the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.) 
Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their 
meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seen 
there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many 
lovely views ; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by 
some considered the most beautiful on the Irish coast. 
Killarney (Royal Victoria Hotel ; Railway ; Lake ; 
Innisf alien), population 5,000, lies about l^M. from the 
N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. 
It possesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a 
nunnery, "with a school attached, where 400 girls are 
educated. The hotels- generally command very good 
views of the lakes and the nits. The town is renowned 
for its beggars ; and for the artifice of the peasantry 
in extorting sixpences from travellers, in return for 
some trifling and entirely superfluous service. Two 
days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap 
of Dunloe, Muckross A.bbey, and the Tore Cascade; 



6 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to 
engage a pony and ride from Killarney through the 
Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, having 
previously ordered a boat to be in readiness at Lord 
Brandon's Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Kil- 
larney to this cottage, and many may prefer to walk 
rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they 
can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes after- 
wards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usu. 
ally be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by 
local law, and there is no occasion to give more. 

The first object of interest on the road from Killar- 
ney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county lunatic 
asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2|- 
M. from the town. All that remains of the once cele- 
brated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by is a 
church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal 
antiquity, lying E. and W. of each other. The W. 
chapel is in the Romanesque style, and was under the 
patronage of St. Einian. The E. chapel dates from 
1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the 
Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country-houses on 
the road beyond Aghadoe. Lake View House, on the 
1., is the residence of a brother of the great O'Con- 
nell ; Beaufort House is attractive ; and Dunloe Castle, 
also on the 1., is celebrated as having been one of the 
residences of the powerful O'Sullivan Mor. The pres- 
ent proprietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. 
from the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe (in 
a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened 
in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was 
found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of 
which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham charac- 
ter, supposed to have been ased by the Druids before 
the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, This 



IRELAND. 9 

venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but 
email interest for the tourist, and he will do well to 
press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will pass 
the cabin in which the fair "Kate Kearney" once re- 
sided, and will doubtless be invited by one of her 
descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for a 
mysterious drink of goats' milk and whiskey. 

Of the Gap of Dunloe au Irish writer has said : 
" It appears as if the vast range of mts., of which this 
most singular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain 
by a mighty sword : one is not surprised at its appear- 
ance having given rise to such a tradition." It is a 
narrow defile 4 M. long, between the range of hills 
called " Macgillicuddy's Reeks " and the Purple Mt., 
a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid stream called 
the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, ex- 
panding at various placas into five lakes known as 
the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridle, 
path, sometimes on the very edge of precipices. The 
peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the 
small lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake 
from Ireland. Many travellers who are disappointed 
in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving 
it, up what is called the Black Valley, extremely im- 
pressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks vary- 
ing from 2,000 to 3,4*00 ft. in height ; but the vast and 
desolate amphitheatre of the Black Valley, with its 
rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of 
still water filled with dissolved peaty matter, and its 
wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impression of 
grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to 
produce. The view down the valley in a warm, hazy 
day is very striking. The water in the lakes throws 
back the light which it receives by reflection from the 
sky, and thus seems to be lighted from below. 



10 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

At numerous points in the Gap and on the Lake? 
there are superb echoes, and there is no lack of peas* 
ants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having 
done so. A narrow and rugged footpath leads down 
from the head of the Gap to Lord Brandon; 's Cottage, 
where the tourist who has ordered a boat before lea v. 
ing Kiilarney will find it waiting for him. It is weK 
to have lunch provided in the boat, so that one can 
take it as he is rowed down towards the Middle and 
Lower Lakes. From Lord Brandon's Cottage ona 
may ascend Purple Mt. (2,739 ft. high), and from 
the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle 
Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond; but 
this would require half a day at least. 

The Lakes. — From the cottage, across the Upper 
Lake, 2^ M., the boatmen row so as to show the 
tourist the numerous pretty islands. The first of these 
is M' 'Carthy '■? ; the second, Arbutus Island, completely 
covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. 
"The islands in the lakes of Cumberland," says the 
author of Black's Picturesque Tourist, "are either 
grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin 
to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, 
or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on 
Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, 
mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The 
islands on the Kiilarney Lakes have a totally different 
aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbutus 
{Arbutus unedo). Even in winter the leaves are of a 
rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations 
of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, which 
hang in graceful racemes, o;* the rich crimson, straw- 
berry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure." 
The Upper Lake is thought by most peopie to be the 
finest of the three. On the S^ lie the Derrycurrihy mt 



IRELAND. II 

ranges, and on the 1. the high " Reeks." The Long 
Range is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connect- 
ing the Upper with the Middle Lake. Things to note 
here : Golmans Bye ; The Man of War ; The Four 
Friends, a group of islets ; The Eagle's Nest, a cliff 
which towers 700 ft. above the river (the echoes heard 
from this point are remarkably fine) ; Old Weir Bridge, 
an ancient structure, under which the water rushes 
swiftly. The small boat is carried through at great 
speed, and floats into a still pool called the Meeting 
of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the 
Middle, which is also called Muckross, or Tore Lake. 
On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may 
be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Kil- 
larney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited 
from this point ; but it will be better to take this in 
conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little 
farther on. Passing under Brlckeen Bridge, the boat 
enters Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. The area 
of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest length 5 M., 
breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal 
one of which, the Ross, is the location of the last 
stronghold in Munster that surrendered to the Parlia- 
mentary army. The castle was built in the 14th cen- 
tury, by one of the O'Donoghues. The island of Innis- 
fallen, midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and 
fiction ; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said 
of it that it was " the most beautiful in the king's do- 
minions, and perhaps in Europe/** The ruins of the 
noted abbey are pointed out. The " Annals of Innis- 
f alien," a kind of universal history down to the time of 
St. Patrick, were written in this abbey about 600 years 
ago. The original copy of this curious work is now 
preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey, 
into which all the treasures of the adjacent country 



12 MUCKROSS ABBEY. 

had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by 
Mildwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. The boatmen 
will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to 
hear about the past of " sweet Innisfallen." The part 
of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay. 
From the shore near Rabbit Island it is but a short 
walk to 0' Sullivan' s Cascade. 

Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the 
same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with 
their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower 
Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the 
handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but 
a short walk. The noted ruins are those of a ch. 
and abbey, "founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, 
and still in decent preservation. In the ch. are many 
ancient tombs ; among them, those of the O'Sullivans, 
McCarthys, and O'Donoghue Mor. The arms of a 
gigantic yew-tree support the crumbling wall of a 
beautiful cloister. The trunk of the .yew is 13 ft. in 
circumference. Fees are not exacted here ; but it is 
customary to give something. Muckross Abbey Man- 
sion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of archi- 
tecture. Passing through Mr. Herbert's grounds, the 
visitor is admitted at a small wicket (fee, 6d.) to the 
enclosure within which is the Tore Cascade. Climb 
up above the fall, which is 60-70 ft. high, and look 
down upon it and out over the lakes. Visitors may, if 
they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the 
Earl of Kenmare to Iloss Island and Castle. The 
*sland is connected with the mainland by a dike. 

^rom Muckross to Killarney the distance is about 
_»•§• M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing, 
We recommend the tourist to ride the first 11 M. to 
the Gap ; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Bran- 
don's Cottage ; "^en the 13 M. across the lakes to 



IRELAND. 13 

Mnckross and the 3J M. into Killarney can be done 
easily before dark. 

Other Excursions from Killarney. — Ascent of 

Mount Mangerton (2,756 ft.). On the way one 
comes to the "Devil's Punch Bowl," a mountain tarn 
2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28 
acres in extent. Charles James Fox swam around it 
hi 1772. Ascent of the Reeks : interesting, but some- 
what difficult. Journey to Valentia : it is worth a 
day's ride on a jaunting-car to see the mighty waves 
beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. 
The train from 

Killarney to Dublin 

(time, 7 hrs. ; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main 
line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins 
of Kilcolman Castle, where Edmund Spenser wrote 
the "Faerie Queene." He obtained, in 1586, a grant of 
land from forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond, 
on condition that he should inhabit the country. In 
1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to 
whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his in- 
fant child perished in the flames which destroyed his 
home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart. 
At Limerick Junction main line from Dublin to Cork 
is intersected by the Waterford and Limerick line. 

Limerick {Royal Hotel; George; Glentworth), on 
the Shannon, "the noblest of Irish rivers," deserves 
a visit, which can be made in a day, including the re- 
turn to the line to Dublin. Limerick has about 
40,000 inhab., and contains a venerable cathedral 
transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble 
castle built in King John's time. 

Waterford (Adelphi; Imperial) merits a visit, 
but is perhaps too far off the line of the vacation 



14 WATERFORD. — CASHEL. — DUBLIN. 

tourist. It is a handsome town of 23,000 inhab., on 
the Suir ; and was the scene of many terrible fights 
between the Irish and the Danes. Between Limerick 
Junction and Dublin there are many places of histori- 
cal importance. From Goold's-Cross Station it is but 
5 M. across country to the Rock of Cashel, which 
rises 300 ft. above the plain. Cashel was the residence, 
of the Kings of Munster ; and there Henry II. received 
the homage of Donald, King of Limerick, in 1172. 
Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near 
Thuries are the ruins of Holy -Cross Abbey. Just 
beyond Portarlington the river Barrow is crossed on 
an iron viaduct 500 ft. long. Eildare, " the city* re- 
nowned for saints," is 30 M. from Dublin. It pos- 
sesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the Chapel of St. 
Brigid, called the "Fire House" because ft is the sup- 
posed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night 
and day for a thousand years " for the benefit of poor 
strangers," is still shown. The " Curragh," an ancient 
race-course, and now used as a military encampment 
and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kil- 
dare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the 
summer months. Near Hazelhatch station is Celbridge 
Abbey, ouce the residence of Swift's " Vanessa." 

Dublin and Vicinity. 

Two days can be spent to advantage in visiting Dub- 
lin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and 
August are excellent months for the visit. But the 
hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of 
the Irish capital by a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, 
or by half a day's leisurely walk. Dublin (Shelbourne 
Hotel ; Gresham, good but rather dear ; Morrison's f 
Metropole ; Imperial; European ; Abbey j Royal Com- 



IRELAND. 15 

mercial ; Edinburgh, temperance) is a city of 420,000 
inhab., on the river Liffey, which divides it into two 
nearly equal parts, and, shortly below the town, widens 
into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of 
Howth, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. 
Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage 
an open car by the hr. (Is. 4d. for first hr., and 6d. for 
each additional \ hr.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland, 
Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ's Church Cathe- 
dral, St. Patrick's Cathedral, the General Post-Office, 
Nelson's Monument, the Custom House, the Fou? 
Courts, and finally to Phoenix Park. This will enable 
one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attrac- 
tions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as .thoso 
of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St., with its cut- 
granite Doric column to Nelson, 121 ft. high, is impos- 
ing, from Carlisle Bridge. The Liffey is navigable to 
this bridge ; but no large vessels come above the 

Custom House, the finest building in the city. It 
is a handsome quadrangular structure, the principal front 
of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical compo- 
sition in the central portico. It represents Britannia 
and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchant- 
men approaching, and Neptune driving away famine 
and despair. The dome is 120 ft. high, and bears on its 
summit a statue of Hope. From Nelson' '" Monument, a 
good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Fee 
for ascent, 6d. . The statue of the hero is the work of 
a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of ,£6,856, 
which the memorial cost, was raised by subscription 
among Nelson's Irish admirers. The General Post- 
Office has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by 
figures of Hibernia, Mercury, and Fidelity. 

The Four Courts, on King's Inn Quay, is the 
came of a handsome building, in which are the Courts 



16 DUBLIN 

of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer and Common 
Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican 
monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time 
of the union of the two nations. Cost about £200,000. 
The facade on the river is 450 ft. long. The great cir- 
cular hall in the centre is lighted by jets of gas, which 
issue from a torch borne in the hands of a gigantic figure 
of Truth. New buildings for the accommodation of the 
Land Courts have recently been erected near by. 

Phcsnix Pp.rk contains 1,750 acres, fairly well laid 
out. interesting reviews of troops are sometimes held 
there. Monuments in the Park. — The Wellington Tes- 
timonial, erected in 1817, at a cost of ,£20,000, by 
the Iron Duke*s fellow- townsmen of Dublin. This 
quadrangular, truncated obelisk of Wicklow granite 
has sunken panels on each side of its pedestal, contain- 
ing relievos in metal, three representing military pieces 
and the fourth containing the laurel-crowned head of 
the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took 
part are inscribed here, and the bas-reliefs are made 
from captured cannon. — The Carlisle Memorial Statue, 
by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years 
of vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of the 
park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on 
the Constabulary Barracks. Within the park limits the 
Lord-Lieutenant has a summer residence. Zoological 
Garden (admission, Is. ; on Sun., 2d.), not far away. 

On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passing from 
Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-Si, at the E. 
side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one 
comes to the Batik of Ireland, in College Green. This 
was once used as the Parliament House. It was com- 
pleted in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased 
\n 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for 
£40,000 and an annual rental of £240. The entrance 



IRELAND. 1? 

to the iormer House of Lords was by a portico on the 
E. side. The House of Lords (visitors admitted) re- 
mains unaltered, except that a statue of George III. 
occupies the site of the throne. Old tapestries, rep- 
resenting the " Siege of Deny " and " King William 
Crossing the Boyne," are worthy of notice, as is also 
the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- 
site the bank is Trinity College ; and on either side of 
the entrance to it are the famous Statues of Goldsmith 
and Burke, by Eoley. Trinity was fonnded in Pope 
John XXII.'s time, and was closed in Henry VIII. 's 
reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into 
a corporation. In 1627 a new code of laws was framed 
for it. The civil wars of the Protectorate brought its 
fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I. and Charles II, 
endowed it liberally. The institution, which is open t(* 
all creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and 
has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits. 
The Museum contains Brian Boroihme's harp and the 
charter-horn of King O'Kavanagh ; the noble dining- 
hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avon- 
more, Chief Justice Downs, Elood, Lord Kil warden, 
Prince Frederick, father of George III., and Lord 
Cairns. Hewitson's fine monument to Provost Bald- 
win, in the building on the r. of the first courtyard, 
should be seen. The library contains nearly 300,000 
volumes, and in the E. end is a very valuable collection 
known as the "Eagel Library." Note the Geological- 
Museum and Lecture Rooms, in College Park. On 
College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of 
William III., erected in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan. 
Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. Nearly 
all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice- 
regal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick's Hall, the 
Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Room ar<s 



18 DUBLIN. 

shown by me attendants for small gratuities, except 
during " the season. 5 ' The stained-glass windows of 
the chapel contain the arras of all the Lord-Lieutenants. 
Good music in this chapel Sunday forenoons. Band 
plays in the courtyard mornings. 

St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a reli 
gious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, near the well 
in which he baptized his converts. The present build- 
ing was begun by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and 
restored and much improved, after the destruction of a 
portion of it by fire, under the care of Archbishop 
Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice inside : 
one to Boyle, Earl of Cork ; and one to the Duke of 
Schomberg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long 
Dean of the cathedral. Two marble slabs mark the 
resting-places of Swift and his " Stella " (Mrs. Hester 
Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the brewer, had the 
cathedral repaired and restored in 1860-63, at a cost 
of £140,000. The Lady Chapel was used by George 
IV. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick. 

Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- 
tion ; but the present structure is comparatively modem. 
It was first erected in 1038, and enlarged in later days 
by Strongbow and Pitzstephen, and still later by Bay- 
mond-le-Gros. It was in Christ Church that the lit- 
urgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. 
Note Earl Stronsrbow's monumental tomb. The local 
guides will tell you the various conflicting reports con- 
cerning its authenticity. This edifice, like St. Patrick's, 
owes its restoration to a vender of strong drink, who 
expended £200,000 on it. Stephen's Green is a hand- 
some square surrounded with fine mansions. On the 
W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons, erected in 
1806-25. Museum: good collection. E. side: Royal 
College of Science. In centre of Green, a statue of 



IKrfLAND. 19 

George II., by Van Nast. S. side : the Catholic Uni. 
versity, the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and 
the Shelbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the pal- 
ace in which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held. 
It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness, 
and devoted to the public benefit. It contains one 
concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons. 

Other Interesting Sights in Dublin. — The Royal 
Hibernian Academy, erected in 1824 for the promotion 
of the fine arts (exhibition opens in February ; closes in 
July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargan 
in front on the N. side of Leinster Lawn. Merrion- 
Bow and Merrion-St. : the house in which Wellington 
was born in 1769 ; and at 30 Merrion- Square, the 
mansion where Daniel O'Connell resided for some 
years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. 
Royal Dublin Society, and King's and Queen 's College 
of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with 
Hagan's statue of O'Connell inside. The Corn Ex- 
change, the meeting-place of the National Council in 
1832, and of the Repeal Association later on. Con- 
ciliation Hall, now a corn store, but the scene of many 
of O'Conneli's triumphs. Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St. 
The Poplin Manufactories : Dublin poplins axe famous ; 
and the industry is rapidly reviving. 

Excursions from Dublin. ; — To Glasn^vin Cem- 
etery, where are graves and line monuments of O'Con- 
nell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic 
Gardens, near by. — Dublin to Howth : Several trains 
ckily. Distance, 9 M. The peninsular Hill of Howth 
is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin 
from the sea. The route leads past Clontarf the seene 
of Brian Boroihme's last victory over the Danes, to 
Howth, a pleasant village on the hill. Erom the har- 
bor an excursion m boat may be made to the island of 



20 DROGHEDA. — BRAY. 

"Ireland's 'Eye." Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey of 
Howth is pleasantly located on a steep overhanging 
the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands an ancient 
Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, about 14x12, supported 
on numerous others. It is supposed to be a portion 
of a sepulchral monument to a departed chief. — 
Malahide {Royal Hotel), 9 M. from Dublin, has a 
notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb in the 
ruined abbey is a memorial of the sad history of the 
lady who in one day was "maid, wife, and widow," 

— the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda (Im- 
perial Hotel), 1|- hrs. by rail from Dubliu. This was 
the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649, and was 
carried by assault, led by the Protector himself. 
Drogheda was also the scene of the " Battle of the 
Boyne," fought, July 1, 1690, between the Prince of 
Orange and his father-in-law, James II. An obelisk 
150 ft. high marks the spot where William began the 
attack and where Schomberg fell. Prom Drogheda, 
Tara and Kells may be visited. 

From Dublin to Bray and the Wicklow Mts. is a 
charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin (Ma- 
rine Hotel ; International), beautifully situated; head- 
quarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.), to the 
Waterfall (car, 4s.), to the Glen of the Downs (car, 
3s. 6d.), to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). Prom Bray to 
the Devil's Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale 
of Avoca, where "the bright waters meet," is a prof- 
itable journey. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew 
Stat., from Rathnew by car to Devil's Glen, from 
Devil's Glen by car to the " Meeting of the Waters," 
in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M. 

— From Bray to Wicklow, along the coast by rail, — • 
desirable journey in bright weather. The Wicklow 
Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty; the rly. fares along 



IRELAND 21 

the coast are moderate, and car-dr>vers must be held to 
the tariff. Purchase one of the excellent local guides, 
for descriptions of the scenery. 

If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England 
via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via 
the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings- 
town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour- 
ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to 
Kingstown, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Channel, 66 
M., 4 hrs. There are two through services to London 
daily, — ■ one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other 
at 6.45, morning. ■ Tourists who wish to make the jour- 
ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even- 
ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next 
morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can 
breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves' 
the in any leisure. 

Kingstown {Royal Marine Hotel ; Anglesea Arms) 
is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit 
to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the royal land- 
ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. 
Before the present admirable system of " Irish Lights 3 * 
was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc- 
curred near Kingstown. 

We give a few fares from various points in Ireland 
to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as 
tourists' plans vary widely. Fare from Queenstown 
direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s. 
6d ; from Queens town to London direct, 69s. 6d., 
52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from 
Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s., 
22s. 6d.; irom Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s. 
The fares to all these places via the North Wall route 
to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, — 
from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s., 



22 MAYNOOTH. — AUBURN. 

28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via Nortl 
Wall, 20s., 15s. 1 _ 

If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the 
Irish and Welsh coasts may be had during the crossing 
to Holyhead. The mail packets, Ulster, Munster> 
Leimter, and Connaught, are remarkably strong, swift, 
and spacious. 

From Dublin to Galway. 

This route takes one from the E. to the " wild west 
coast," in 5| hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., lis. 10d.); 
distance, 126| M. Glasnevin, where Addison, Swift, 
Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided ; and 
Maynooth, where there is a castle erected in 1426 by 
the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat- 
rick, — are interesting. At Mullingar are the remains 
of an Augustine priory. Athlone is an important mili- 
tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed 
by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the 
Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. AtTienry is 
an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls, 
and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of 
Galway Bay and the xslands of Arran may be obtained. 
Erom Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 M. 
(fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is " The Deserted Village " 
of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lishoy ; but since the 
famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always 
retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is 

1 The summer tourist in Ireland will find it to his advan- 
tage to purchase the monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the 
London and Northwestern, and Midland Elys. These ex- 
cellent books contain a great variety of information about 
circular tours in Ireland, in connection with the above-men- 
tioned lines. 



IRELAND. 23 

She ruined parsonage, where the Rev, Charles Goldsmith, 
the original of Dr. Primrose in the " Vicar of Wake- 
deld," struggled for the maintenance of his large family. 
Gaiway {Railway Hotel, at the station ; Royal) 
<s a quaint old town, rattier Spanish in appearance, with 
wide gateways, broad stairs, and many other evidences 
of the predominance of Spanish ideas in former times. 
For a long period during and after the 14th century, ex- 
tensive t-ade was carried on between Spain and Gaiway, 
and Irish merchants made frequent and protracted 
visits to Spain. Some of the residences of the mer- 
chant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occu- 
pied by the very poorest and lowest class. Queers 
College is a handsome Gothic structure, built of gray 
limestone. Gaiway Bay is the finest in Ireland ; 
and the distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636 
M. The "Western Highlands of Connemara, 
and the County Clare, including the region rendered 
famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants 
in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The 
road from Gaiway to Ciifden and Westport, 88 M. 
(car fares about 14s. 6d-.), r^ses through the most* at- 
tractive part of the region. "Westport {Railway Hotel; 
Connemara) is a pretty town ; and the domain of the 
Marquis of Sligo should be visited See Clare Island, 
the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley. 

Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's 
Causeway, etc. 

In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the trareller 
must consider whether he intends to return to Dublin 
and cross to England via Kingstown and Holyhead, or 
to cross from Belfast to Glasgow or Liverpool or 
Fleetwood, If he means to come back to Dublin, let him 



24 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

proceed thence directly to Portrush, which is the 
nearest station to The Giant's Causeway, Dunluce 
Castle, etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 
23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Malahide,\ The 
Skerries, where Saint Patrick is said to have taken 
shelter when he was pursued by the Druids ; Bal~ 
briggan, famous for its stocking factories; Drog- 
heda; Dundalk, where Edward Bruce was crowned 
King of Ireland; Portadown Junction; Lurgan, a 
flourishing town engaged in linen manufactories; 
Belfast; Antrim, not far from Lough Neagh; 
and Goleraine, long noted for the fineness of its 
linens. 

Portrush {Northern Counties Railway; Osborne's; 
Leek's; Portrush) is a pleasant watering-place. The 
Causeway may be reached by the electric tramway 
passing through Bushmills, or by jaunting-car. On 
the way the tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unques- 
tionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. 
It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about 
100 feet above the sea. The surface of the rock is 
entirely covered by the ruins of what must have been 
an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more 
than 18 inches broad, connects the castle with the 
mainland. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d. to Is., 
according to size of party. "The White Rocks," in 
which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far 
from Dunluce. 

The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage 
guide at the Causeway Hotel. The basaltic rocks are 
abundant along the coast here,but the most interesting 
formations occur between Portcoon Cave, on the W„, 
and Dunseverick C&stle, on the E. If the tourist has 
time, he should take the circuit first in a boat, and then 
visit the more important of the curiosities by land. 
See the Causeways, Little, Middle, and Great ; the 
Giant's Gateway; Giant's Organ; Chimney Tops; the 



IRELAND. 25 

Priest and his Flock ; the Pleaskin ; and the Hen and 
Chickens. There is a route from the Giant's Cause- 
way to Belfast by the coast road, recommended only 
to those in no hurry. A whole day must be given to 
the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return. 

Londonderry (Jury's Hotel; Imperial; Commer- 
cial; City; Northern) is on the river Foyle. Me- 
morials of the historic ''Siege of Derry" are numer- 
ous. Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old 
walls of the town are still preserved as a promenade. 
From Londonderry to Portrush it is 2 hrs. by rail 
(7s. 6d., 5s. 6d., 3s. 8d); from Portrush to Belfast it 
is 3 to 4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s. 4d.). 

Belfast (Imperial; Prince of Wales; Royal) will 
remind American visitors of some of our own thriv- 
ing manufacturing towns; and the contrast between 
its smartness and vivacity and the dulness and 
languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be 
remarked at once. In 40 years the population has 
increased from 87,000 to 260,000. Two-thirds of 
the inhabitants are Protestants. The town stands 
on the property of the Marquis of Donegal; and it is 
said that but for long leases granted by the former 
proprietor, the income of that nobleman from the 
town alone would amount to £300,000. Belfast is 
situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay known 
as Belfast Lough. The port is 130 JVi. from Glasgow, 
and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of 
the town signifies "the mouth of the ford." The 
new docks are very fine. On the Queen's Island 
is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 
2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are built 
there. Buildings to notice: Presbyterian Ch., Rose- 
mary-St. ; Royal Academical Institution and Govern- 
ment School of Art; Commercial Buildings; Ulster 
Bank; Belfast Bank; Custom House, High-St., and 



26 . BELFAST. 

Albert Square ; the Harbor Office ; the Linen Hall, 
with the Belfast Library ; Queen's College, reached bj 
the Botanic Road ; Presbj/terian College, University 
Square ; Methodist College. Other things to see : Bo- 
tanic Gardens, the Co$ce statue, Belfast Museum., and 
The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses. Visitors are 
readily cidmitted to most of the mills. 

Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill ; to the 
Giant's Ring ; to Dundalk ; to Bangor, the chief water- 
ing-place for the inhabitants of Belfast ; and to Lord 
Dufferin's estate of Clandeboye, 9 M. from the city. 

The traveller now has Ms choice cf various routes 
for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from 
Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he can do so by the 
Royal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun. ex- 
cepted); time, 8 hrs.; fare, 12s. 6d. \.jt routes by sea 
from Belfast to Liverpool and to London can only be 
recommended to those who have a passion for sea 
travel. Fare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d.; to London, 25s. 
A boat leaves Belfast every evening (Sun. excepted), 
at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness; fare, 12s. 6d. Through 
tickets to London (45s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Mid- 
land Rly., 1st and 3d class only) are also sold, by this 
Barrow route, from various points along which the 
English Lake Region may be visited. 

Ireland covers 32,393 square M., a little less than 
Maine, South Carolina, and Indiana ; and has upwards 
of 5,000,000 inhab., f of whom are Roman Catholics. 
It was Christianized by St. Patrick, in 432. Perpetual 
civil wars raged from the 8th to the 12th century. Id 
1172 England conquered much of Ireland, and discon- 
tent has been chronic ever since. 



NORTH WALES. 27 



NORTH WALES. 

TTOIiYHEAD {N.-Western) affords a picturesque 
** introduction to some of the most romantic por- 
tions of Wales. Those not obliged to proceed at 
once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend 
2-3 days with pleasure and profit at points along- the 
line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, divided by 
a small strait from Anglesea, and takes its name 
from a monastery founded in the 6th century. Good 
view from the hill of the rocky shores, the harbor of 
refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promon- 
tory of the head is hollowed by the ocean into 
caverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl. 
There are important Roman remains here. The Ch. 
was erected in Edward III. 's time. The neighboring 
island of Anglesea, rich in minerals, was a principal 
seat of Druidical superstition. It was conquered 
with the rest of Wales by Edward L The Britannia 
Tubular Bridge, one of the wonders of Great 
Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead. 
This, as well as the Menai Bridge, may be visited 
from Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the 
Conway and Britannia bridges, and in noting how 
the idea that budded in the first structure has fully 
blossomed in the later and larger one. See Smiles's 
" Lives of the Engineers " for a description of the man- 
ner in which the two Stephensons worked out their 
thought; how "the great originator of the railway 
system watched with pleased attention the processes 
by which the son made quite certain of each step." 
The vast tubes were not placed where they now rest 
without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of 
the spans is 472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed 



28 BANGOR. 

entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes 
of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of 
the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain 
the line of rail perfect. The Britanuia Bridge 1 is 
more than 100 ft. above the water-level. The Menai 
Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stu- 
pendous work. Its greatest span from point to point" 
is 560 ft., aud its elevation above the water-way at 
the highest tide is 100 ft. It is the longest suspension 
bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old 
coaching days, in the early part of the century. After 
crossing this bridge, you have left the island of An- 
glesey and are on the mainland. 

Bangor (Cfeorge; Rait way; Williams' Temper- 
ance ; Castle) lies in a valley between two great rocky 
ridges. On the N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. See 
Cathedral, with monuments of numerous Welsh prin- 
ces ; the palace of the Bishop of Bangor, and charitable 
institutions ; and walk to the Menai Bridge. Mt. 
scenery fine. The cathedral was built in the 6th 
century, destroyed by the Anglo-Normans in the 11th, 
rebuilt in the 12th, and burned by Owen Gwyndwr in 
1402. The present structure dates from the 16th cen- 
tury, and is a massive construction, with a tower o. 
moderate height. Bangor is in the oldest diocese in 
Wales. In the vicinity is a slate quarry of immense 
extent, in which as many as 2,000 persons are at times 

1 The Tubular Bridge cost £620,000. It is 1,500 ft. in 
length, and raised sufficiently high to allow ships with high- 
est masts to pass beneath it. It consists of a wrought-iron 
tube made of plates riveted together, 1,513 ft. long. 1,800 
men were employed for 4 years on its construction. The 
tubf? were first riveted together, floated out on pontoons, 
ana then raised into their places by hydraulic pressure. The 
whole weight is over 10.000 tons._ „ 



NORTH WALES. 29 

employed. See the castle of Lord Penrhyn, in whose 
family the quarries are owned. 70,000 tons of slate 
are yearly shipped from Port Penrhyn. 

The rly. now skirts the shore of Beaumaris Bay ; 
passes through Penmaenmawr, near which is a mt. of 
the same name, 1,540 ft. high ; through the Penbach 
Tunnel; and, just before reaching Conway, traverses 
the Conway Tubular Bridge, erected by Stephenson 
in 1848. It consists of two hollow rectangular tubes 
of wrought-iron plates, for the up and down trains, 
eacli measuring 400 ft. and weighing 1140 tons. 
Con-way {Castle Hotel) has a castle which entitles 
it to the American pilgrim's earnest attention. This 
superb ruin is situated on a rock, guarded on two 
sides by the Conway River. It was built by Edward I. 
During the civil wars this oblong fortress, flanked by 
eight embattled towers, was garrisoned for the King. 
But the Parliamentary army took it. Charles II. gave 
it to the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the precious 
stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now belongs to the 
Marquis of Hertford. The massive walls of the town, 
with their towers and gateways, are still in good condi- 
tion. Among the odd old houses in Conway is one 
erected in 1577 by Robert Wynne, which is worth a 
visit. In the Ch. there are several monuments to 
members of the Wynne family. See The College in 
Castle-St., now inhabited by poor families. On the. 
S. E. side of Great Orme's Head, 4 M. by rail from 
Conway, is the fashionable watering-place of Llan- 
dudno. 

Tourists who have a few days to spend in North 
Wales can make a variety of interesting excursions 
from Bangor or Conway. From the former point they 
may visit Caernarvon (Hotel : Royal Sportsman), an 
ancient town, situated partly on the Menai Strait and 



30 CAERNARVON. — SNOWDON. 

partly on the estuary of the Seiont. Caernarvon's chief 
object of interest is the castle erected by Edward I, 
There Edward II., the first English. Prince of Wales 
■was born. The external walls of the castle are nearly 
10 ft. thick. 1 Near the Seiont formerly stood a strong 
fort, long a residence of the British princes. The view 
from the Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See the 
Terrace, outside the town walls, also Druidical circles 
in the neighborhood. It is not quite 9 M. by rail from 
Bangor to Caernarvon, and in good weather a tramp 
along the highway between the two towns will be found 
enjoyable. Erom Caernarvon the Snowdonian region is 
easy of access. Roman rains abound in the vicinity; 
see site of the Roman station of Segontium. Llanberis, 
from which point Snowdon (3,571 ft. high) may be 

1 Caernarvon Castle, says an historian, is a " stupendous 
monument of ancient grandeur." It occupies the whole W. 
end of the town. Some years ago it seemed as if fast going 
to ruin ; its ivy-clad walls appeared to be yielding to the 
ravages of time, yet withal retaining a romantic singularity 
of their own ; and in 1828 the Eagle Tower — the largest of 
all — was struck by lightning, which cracked the walls sev- 
eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great 
pains have since been taken to restore the fabric ; and it 
stands before us to-day a grand and beautiful structure. On 
two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was of yore 
protected by a ditch, and on the fourth it was shut in by 
the town. Caernarvon ii probably only about \ M. from 
the site of Segontium, the principal Roman station in North 
"Wales. The castle became the headquarters of the English 
after the Conquest by Edward, and here he had the treasury 
for the taxes exacted from his Welsh subjects. The Eagle 
Tower — so named from the figure of the bird standing on 
the summit — occupies one end of the oblong court, and has 
* 7 ~ree turrets rising from it 



NORTH WALES. 31 

ascended, is reached by rail from Caernarvon. Llanberis 
and Nant Ffrancon are two of the finest passes ia 
Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road 
through it winds under frowning precipices ; and Lake 
Ogwen's inky-black water breaks through a chasm 
in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100 
ft. high, that fiud their way into the rich vale extending 
N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be 
from Bangor to Caernarvon; thence to Llanberis and 
through the Pass to Capel Curig ; thence to Bettws- 
y-Coed, the " Station in the Wood," a delicious sylvan 
retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful 
pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Conivay. 

Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but 
two or three other points worthy notice between Con- 
way and Chester. Abergele {Bee Hotel) is near 
Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and 
the mt.-pass in which the Welsh defeated Harold 
and, later on, massacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs. 
Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. In 1868 a 
frightful rly. accident, by which 33 persons were burned 
to death, occurred near this stat. Rhyl (Queen's 
Hotel ; Belvoir) is a pretty watering-place. A branch 
rly. runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of 
St. Asaph ; and to Denbigh, a venerable hill-town 
with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined 
castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St. Wini- 
fred's Well is to be seen. Flint Castle, on a rock by 
the sea, was once the prison of Richard II. 13 M. 
beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales. 



32 CHESTER. 



ENGLAND. 

CHESTER (Grosvenor Hotel; Queen's, at the rly 
stat.; Blossom's ; and others more or less good). 
The curious features of this delightful town may bg 
seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, i» 
3-4 hrso). The traveller who has not already made uj 
his mind should here decide whether he will go directly 
to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to 
Scotland. To those who contemplate making an ex- 
tensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the 
British Islands only late in September or October, we 
would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool, 
and thence, after having seen the sights in that city and 
in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes and 
Scotch mts. But many persons will probably like to 
go to London and the Continent at once, for a season, 
returning N. in August and resuming our English and 
Scotch itinerary from Chester or Liverpool. 

Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is suffi- 
ciently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most 
curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town 
existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it 
was the Romans who made the definite foundation. 
They chose this place as one of their principal military 
stations, called it the " City of the Legions," and made 
it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still 
occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan 
^chosen and arranged by the Roman leaders. Chester 
was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by 
jEthelfrith, King of the Northumbrians : and then the 
memorials of the Roman sojourn were greatly injured. 
For nearly three centuries Chester lay in ruins. . f ji 



ENGLAND. 33 

907 Alfred the Great's daughter, Ethelfleda, restored 
the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to 
time used as temporary strongholds ; and from that 
day Chester became important in English history. It 
was the very last city to hold out against William the 
Conqueror; and a nephew of the great Norman was 
\nade Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Ches-) 
ter was especially prominent in the Civil War as the 
first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to 
the Parliamentary forces. 

A Walk around the Old "Walls may be begun at 
East Gate, near the Grosvenor or Blossom's Hotel. 
Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral (described 
^elow). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls, 
where they turn W. to the North Gate, is the Phoenix 
Tower, on which Charles I. stood during the battle of 
Rowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of hia 
army, Sept. 24, 1645. See inscription. Under the 
walls at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut 
in the solid rock. Moving on towards the North 
Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cor- 
nice 6 ft. below the parapet, may be seen. From this 
gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mts. and 
of Waverton and Christleton chs. Just outside the 
gate is an ancient Blue Coat Hospital. A little far- 
ther on, from a square building on the r. side of the 
wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Flint 
Castle, the Training College, etc. Another tower, 
once known as the Goblin's, but now called Pember- 
ton's Parlor, comes next. It beais a mutilated inscrip- 
tion about the "glorious reign of Anne." The Water 
Tower, as its name indicates, was once closely ap- 
proached by ships ; but the river is now a long way 
from the walls. This part of the fortifications was 
bombarded by Cromwell in 1645. Within the tower 



34 CHESTER. 

is a museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See railway 
viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point. 
The City Jail is an imposing structure. From the 
Water Gate note the Rhoodee race-course, and beyoncf 
the river the fine villas of Cuiscn Park. Grosvenoi 
Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 ft, 
Over the river, in Edgar's Field, is a statue of Pallas. 
The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, erected in 
the last century on the site of the ancient one. " Caesar's 
Tower " is the only remnant of the old structure. See 
near the Castle the Comhermere Monument and the 
Shire Hall. Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. 
Walk on over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to 
New Gate (1608), and thence to East Gate. Outside 
the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is the Ch. 
of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt 
in 1574. 

*The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, 
and the choir and central tower were finished in the 
early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, refectory, 
and chapter-house are said to have been constructed 
1200-1230. Many portions were greatly altered in 
the period between 1485 and 1537. The ch. is almost 
entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district. 
The restorations carried on for several years past 
have proved highly successful. The E. portion is an 
excellent example of Early English style. The choir is 
beautiful : note the Gothic work at the sides ; also the 
richly carven Gothic screen of stone, which separates 
the nave from the choir ; the bishop's throne, formed 
by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous mem- 
ory ; and the black and white marble pavement in the 
choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best. 
The lector's pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of the 
22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the 



ENGLAND, 35 

chapter-house; and the great W. window of the nave, 
should be remarked. The stained-glass windows are 
modern. The cathedral's interior is not so imposing 
is its exterior. Tradition says that a Roman temple to 
Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two 
towers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows, 
covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the 
second stories of the houses in Eastgate, Watergate, 
Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are 
one of the most striking features of Chester. 1 Old 
Houses, remarkable for their curious carvings and for 
historical associations, are very numerous in Chester. 
Note the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water 
Gate; and on Lower Briclge-St., leading from Bridge 
Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the 
siege. A Roman sweating-bath may be seen in one of 
the houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several 
Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- 
cient buildings. 

Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke 
of Westminster, is 3 M. from Chester. Tickets of ad- 
mission to the grounds and mansion may be had for 

1 Pennant says : " These Rows appear to me to have been 
the same with the ancient vestibules, and could have been a 
form of building preserved from the time that the city was 
possessed by the Romans. They were the places where de- 
pendants watched for the coming out of their patrons, and in 
which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expecta- 
tion. Plautus, in the third act of his Mostel/aria, describes 
both their station, and use. The shops beneath the Rows 
were the cryptee and apothecse, magazines for the various 
necessaries of the owners of the houses." Many of the Rows 
to-day form two terraces, the shops one above the other, 
the galleries being reached by flights of steps at convenient 
distances. 



36 LIVERPOOL. 

a small sum at the Grosvenor Hotel and of the news, 
dealers. The house is an elaborate structure, with a 
great number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 ft. 
long. The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and 
through the Park, entering by a gateway copied from 
the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting. 
The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. 
There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall. 

Liverpool. 

"From Chester important lines of railway radiate in 
all directions. The traveller may proceed to Liver* 
pool, via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn 
Bridge x and its viaducts, and arriving at the Lime-St, 
terminus of the London and Northwestern Railway 
(fare, 3s. ; time, a little more than half an hour) ; or 
he may go from Chester to Birkenhead, and cross from 
this latter place to Liverpool by ferry (time and fare 
about the same, but scenery uninteresting) ; or he may 
walk through Eastham, Bebington, etc., to Rock 
Eerry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend 
the walk to Chester from Liverpool for those who have 
made their first entry into Europe at the great seaport. 
If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their aesthetic 
sense, and disappointed their expectations of romance 
in Europe, Chester will re-establish their enthusiasm. 

1 The entire length of this structure is 2J M. The 
bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by 
33 arches, I of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 
ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at S 
height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. span, each supported 
upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a distance of 27§ 
chains. The total cost of the structure was £422,400, of 
Which £41,800 was paid for laud. 



ENGLAND. 37 

Liverpool (Hotels: Adelphi; Northwestern Rail- 
way ; Grand; Lancashire and Yorkshire; Shaftes- 
bury Temperance; Imperial; Angel. Restaurants:. 
Salisbury's Luncheon Rooms; Bear's Paw; State; 
and at stations and hotels) is the port at which many 
tourists from the United States first land, it is a 
city of over 650,000 inhab., the second seaport in the 
United Kingdom, and possesses the finest docks in 
the world. See the " Chapter for Travellers" for in- 
structions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is 
essentially a modern town. In 1561 it was a hamlet ; 
in 1644 Prince Rupert called it " a crow's nest " ; but 
in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liverpool's im- 
portance dates from the upspringing of the cotton, 
manufacture in England. There have been years in 
which the value of its exports has been twice as great 
as that of the exports from London ; 30,000 seamen 
constantly throng its quays. Its public buildings are 
as new as those of American cities. There is scarcely 
one older than the present century. 1 



1 " Liverpool is not even mentioned in the list of towns in: 
the Doomsday Book of the Norman invaders. It is spoken, 
of for the first time in 1172, when Henry II. made the con- 
quest of Ireland, and embarked his ships in the Mersey. 
Towards 1700 its population was hardly 5,000. The block- 
up of the Dee at Chester profited Liverpool ; and its mer- 
chants began to ~ejt rich, above all-in the slave trade. As 
the painter Fuseli said, when he was asked to admire the 
great streets, 'the blood of the negroes seems to have fil- 
tered through these carven stones.' The city occupies the- 
geographical centre between Great Britain and Ireland. It- 
is the only point of convergence for domestic exchange be- 
tween the British Islands. This central position is also an 



38 LIVERPOOL. 

The Docks, some parts of which may be seen 
from the steamers ascending the Mersey, deserve a 
careful visit. Liverpool lies on the r. bank of the 
river Mersey; opposite it is the important town of 
Birkenhead; and the " silent highway " between is 
thronged with ships from every part of the globe. 
The dock system extends from the Hercuianeum 
Graving Dock to the N. part of the Hornby Dock, a 
distance of 6 M. An electric elevated road, running 
from Seaforth Sands to Dingle, passes by the whole 
line of docks (3d., 2d.). All intervening space is filled 
with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep. 
The Canning, Salthouse, George's, King's, Queen's, and 
Brunswick Docks, and the Queen's and Prince's Half- 
Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816. 
In the King's Dock and warehouses are stored and 
bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and cigars. 
Railways communicate by tunnels directly with the 
dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool 
docks is estimated at 26 M ; of the basins, 8 M.; 
and the total water area of the docks, 389 acres. The 
Prince s Landing Stage, at which passengers from and 
to America disembark and depart, is a noble work. It 
is said that nearly \ of the trade of the port is with the 
United States. The town possesses -^ of the shipping 
of Great Britain, -| of the foreign trade, ^ of the gen- 
eral commerce, and more than -| as much trade as the 
port of Loudon. 

advantage for foreign commerce, which has chosen Liverpool 
for its depot. Farther than Bristol from the high sea, which 
is the road to America, Africa, and the Indies, Liverpool 
overcomes this inferiority by the advantage which she has in 
being close to the border of a coal basin, which has become 
the principal seat of all the manufactures of the entire 
world." {Elisee Recltts^ 



ENGLAND 39 

St. George's Hall is one of the most conspicuous 
objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and imposing struc- 
ture, completed in 1851, and contains the Assize 
Courts, an immense hall for public meetings, and a 
concert room. The portico on the S. is very fine. It 
surmounts a pedestal of noble steps, 150 ft. wide, ter- 
minating in a pediment, the tympanum of which is 
enriched by sculptures representing Britannia offering 
the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the 
Mersey flowing at her feet. Mercury is represented 
as leading to her from the other side Asia, Europe, 
Africa, and America. In the great hall is one of the 
largest organs in the world, with 10S stops and 8,000 
pipes. See the bronze doors which lead to the Crown 
Court. In front of St. George's Hall are statues of 
the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone 
lions guard the principal entrance to the area 
between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the 
Alexandra Theatre. The TFellingtoti Monument, cast 
from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George's 
Hall. A little to the N. is Brown's Free Public Library 
and Museum , built at the expense of the late Sir William 
Brown. Near by is the Walker Art Gallery. 

The Municipal Offices, in Dale-St. ; the Town Hall ; 
the Exchange, which covers two acres, in the commer- 
cial quarter, are handsome edifices. On the Exchange 
Flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze 
statue of Nelson, by Westmacott aSY. Johns Market, 
a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Cus- 
tom House and Post-Office, at the junction of Strand-St. 
and Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the 
storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors' Home, 
close by. 



40 LIVERPOOL. 

Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The 

Botanic Gardens, in Edge Lane. The Corn Exchange 
on Brunswick-St. St. Nicholas' Ch., the only real an- 
tiquity in Liverpool. The original chapel was built in 
the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a 
statue of St. Nicholas, patron of mariners, stood in the 
yard. The ch. was restored in 1774. The tower facing 
the S. side was erected as one of a series of " signal 
steeples." Prince's and Stanley Parks ; from the latter 
a good view of the sea and the Cumberland hills. St. 
James 's Cemetery, formerly a stone quarry, and filled 
for its present purpose at an expense of .£20,000. 
The Mausoleum of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park, 
purchased at a cost of £450.000 from the Earl of Sef- 
ton. Liverpool has expended vast sums the past few 
years on street improvements; but the poor quarter is 
still horribly unhealthy. A walk through it should be 
undertaken only in the daylight hours. Estates and 
Residences of Noblemen near Liverpool : Knowsley 
Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley 
portraits there) ; Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Seftcn's 
seat ; Childwall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of 
Salisbury. Excursions' may be made from Liverpool 
to New Brighton, down the river by ferry-boat from 
the George's Landing stage ; and to East ham, a pretty 
pleasure-resort. 1 

1 " The cities crowded together in the neighborhood of 
Liverpool and Birkenhead are very numerous. In an angle 
of Cheshire is New Brighton, a water-side pleasure-resort. 
Toxteth Park is a suburb situated near the Mersey. On the 
N. and the E. are Bootle, Linacre, Walton-on-the-HilL 
West Derby, Widnes, Wavertree, Prescot, St. Helens, Ince, 
and Newton-in-Makerfield. St. Helens has very important 
glass manufactories. The basin of the Ribble contains a 
very considerable population. Round the mouths of the mines 



ENGLAND. 41 

Birkenhead {Queen's Hotel ; Wood-side), an essen- 
tially modern town of about 115,000 inhab., is near 
the mouth of the Mersey, on the 8. shore facing 
Liverpool. Constant communication by steam-ferries 
and the new tunnel under the Mersey. Shipbuilding 
is the main industry. The docks cover 500 acres. 
Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the 
Alabama was built. The Oh., which overlooks the 
river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded 
in Henry II. 's reign. - 

rise groups of factories. The central city of the basin, Black- 
burn, is one of those towns black with smoke, where steam- 
engines are incessantly roaring. Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble is 
in the midst of a charming country. Between Blackburn and 
Liverpool the manufacturing towns are close together. Over- 
Darweu, Chorley, Wigan, Hindley, are but a stone's thro^w 
from each other. Not far from Wigan is the deepest coaL 
mine in Great Britain. On the W. of Wigan is the grea/ 
market town of Ormeskirk. Preston, ' proud Preston; 
majestically situated where the Ribble begins to broaden, if 
the most populous city of the whole basin. It is at the sami 
time a manufacturing place of the first order, especially for 
cottons.. Lancaster is to the N., distant from the centre 
of population. It is no longer a capital except in name, 
although it still keeps certain prerogatives as a ducal city. 
Built on the site of a Roman military station, it is overlooked 
by a castle where there were many important ruins. Lan- 
caster, prominent in so many events in the civil wars, is now 
a peaceful commercial town, with numerous cotton factories. 
The Fleetwood Railway unites it with Poulton, on Morecambe 
Bay, a maritime summer-resort. The town which attracts 
most visitors is Blackpool, situated N. of the Ribble estuary, 
on a hill from whence the waters of the Irish Sea can be 
.seen." 



42 GRANGE. — FURNESS ABBEY. 



The English Lake District. 

Those persons who desire to visit the English Lakes 
and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going, as the 
English say, "up to London," will find Liverpool their 
best point of departure. Erom Liverpool to Winder, 
mere the distance is 87^ M. ; and the fares, 25s. 6d., 
18s. 3d., lis. 6d. This route is through Wigan, Pres- 
ton, and Lancaster to Oxenhblme Junction, where & 
good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmore- 
land, is obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail- 
way to Windermere, whence excursions can be made 
in all directions. But we think the American tourist 
would find it interesting to enter this beautiful re- 
gion by another route, as follows : Take ticket from 
Liverpool to Grange (fares, 21s. 6d., 15s. 6d., 10s.). 
You pass through Wigan, Preston, and Lancaster, and 
a little beyond this last place change at Garnforth 
Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you 
across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside wild 
stretches of quicksand, where hundreds of lives have 
been lost. Grange {Grange Hotel, a charming house 
on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the " Torquay 
of the North." Its climate is mild, even in winter ; and 
it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a 
Roman station, is near by. Erom Grange an excursion 
should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway 
passing through Ulverston, Lindal, Dalton, and other 
points in the rich Eurness mining district, and termi- 
nating at the important town of Barrow. (Return 
ticket, 1st class, Grange to Eurness Abbey, 5s.) Tour- 
ists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- 
cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have 
left Liverpool for Grange in the 'morning. " The Royal 



E^GLANB. 45 

Abbey of St. Mary of Furness" was founded in 
1127, in Henry I."s reign, by Stephen, his successor 
on the throne of England. The monks of the 
Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and powerful. 
The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament, 
and had their little army. The ruin is now the 
property of the Duke of Devonshire. Admission 
to the grounds, which are close to the stat., free. 
The roofless ch., the lavishly decorated chapter- 
house, the scriptorium, and the refectory contain 
many interesting memorials. The E. window is 
preserved in the sanctuary at Bowness ; it is a superb 
specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness Abbey 
Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rly. lie beds of hem- 
atite iron ore, from which about 600,000 tons are annu- 
ally taken. From Ulverston {Sun ; County Hotel) , 
the capital of Furness,. a branch line leads to Lake 
Side, on Windermere Lake. One can also go directly 
from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the head 
of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northwestern' 
and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a 
host of details concerning round trips, circular tickets, 
etc. Holker Hall, a residence of the Duke of Dev- 
onshire, may be visited on the way back from Fur- 
tiess Abbey to Grange. Stop at Cark, and waJk to 
the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on the Leven, 
lowing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming 
walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven Sands up 
to and through sweet and romantic Holker Village, with 
its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and 
on to Gartmel and its ancient Priory. Holker Hall 
contains a fine collection of paintings, and the park is 
well stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited 
from Grange \t is on the E. side of the river Kent. 



44 WINDERMERE. 

The gardens on the estate were laid out by Beaumont, 
James II. 's faunas gardener. Returning to Grange, 
sleep there, and ^ake the coach next morning for Newby 
Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Windermere) at 
about 10 o'clock. This 8 M. drive is delightful. At 
Newby Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan 
Jnn should be noticed. At Lake Side, where the train 
from Ulverston comes in {Lake Side Hotel, very good), 
one may take the steam-yacht which plies regularly on 
the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Eerry 
(5 M.), Bowness (6 M.), or Waterhead (11 M.). This 
last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the lake ; and 
at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region. 
(Fare from Grange to Ambleside by this route, about 5s.) 
A party of four persons would find it worth their while 
to hire a carriage at Grange, and drive first to Newby 
Bridge ; thence to Lake Side ; then across from Winder- 
mere Lake, past Esthwaite Water (around which Words- 
worth used to walk when he was attending school near 
by), through the old town of Hawkshead, down to the 
Waterhead Quay on Coniston Lake ; and from that point 
over the Oxenfe'll, past Skelwith Bridge and Elter Water 
and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily* 
in 5-6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a 
bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston and the 
approach to Ambleside afford two of the loveliest 
views in England. Make special bargain for carriage ; 
driver receives fee of 2s. — 3s. 6d. We advise tourists 
to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from 
there. The Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and 
Rusland Vales may be best visited from Windermere 
Village or Bowness ; but everything else of importance 
is most accessible from Ambleside. 1 

1 The traveller will find pocket editions of Wordsworth 
and Southey excellent companions ; also, Prof. Win. Knight'* 



ENGLAND. 45 

Windermere Lake is 101 M. long and 1 M. broad 
in its widest part. It is 134 ft. above the sea-level, 
and varies in depth from 90 to 210 ft. Opposite Bow- 
ness there is a group of about a dozen small islands. 
The surrounding hills rarely rise above 1,000 ft. At 
a few yards' from the head of the lake, the rivers 
Brathay and Rothay unite their waters. There are no 
such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnifi- 
cent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss 
lakes ; but there is a bewildering richness of Northern 
vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful land- 
scapes such as few other countries can boast. (Boat, 
to row yourself, Is. an hr. ; with boatman, Is. 6d. per 
hr. ; for the day, with boatman, 10s.) 

Bowness [Crown Hotel; Royal; Old England) is Jn 
a pleasant bay, and commands good views of the upper 
reaches of the lake. Ancient parish ch. here. Coaches 
every morning in summer for Coniston; and for Patter- 
dale, by the Trout beck Va'j and Kirkstone Pass. 

"Windermere (Rigcjss Windermere Hotel) is 1£ 
miles, from the lake by road, \ M. by footpath, and 
5 M. from Ambleside. Coach each morning in summer 
to Patterdale. A short distance from the stat. formerly 
stood Elleray, the residence of Prof. Wilson (Christo- 
pher North) ; it has been replaced by a new house. Fine 
view from Orrest Head, 783 ft. high (J hr.'s walk). 

Ambleside {Salutation; Queens; White Lion,; 
Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the 
head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situation at the 
foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere 
and to head of lake ; and coaches for Keswick, and 

" The English Lake District, as interpreted in the Poems of 
Wordsworth," price 5s. Baddeley's Guide is eapital. Jenkin- 
son's " Practical Guide," price 7s., is a good book. Th&re ara 
also a dozen small pamphlet guides for 6d. or Is. each.. 



46 AMBLESIDE. — CONISTON LAKE. 

thrice daily for Windermere. Fare from Liverpool to 
Ambleside, 28s. 6d., 20s. 6d., 13s. 6d. ; from London 
to Ambleside, in 7 hrs., 76s. 4d., 58s. 10d., 39s. 6d. 

At Ambleside you are on classic ground. The 
landlord at the Salutation Inn (which venerable hos- 
telry is now in its twenty- fourth decade, although the 
building is not) says that Americans always ask him 
how far it is to Wordsworth's grave, where Harriet 
Martineau lived, etc., but that English tourists never 
do. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants 
build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in 
the neighborhood. The park-like vale of Rothay, with 
its rich woods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems 
made for the home of contemplation. The new Ch. of 
St. Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charm- 
ing location. We give a number of short excursions 
within walking distance, out of which the tourist must 
choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stock 
Ghyll Force (waterfall, 70 ft. high), within the Salutation 
Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are 
computed from the " Salutation." To Rydal Mount, 
Ch., and Falls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and WansfellTike, 
3 M.; to the top of Kirkstone Pass, 4 M.; to Grasmere, 
under Loughrigg Fell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M.; to 
Clappersgate, 1 M. ; Brathay Ch., 2 M. ; Low Wood 
Hotel, 2 M.; Troutbeck Ch., 4 M,; Langdale Ch., 5 M. 
Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Furness Abbey, 
and Windermere Lake (fares, 8s. 9d., 6s. 6d.), and tor 
the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at 
Bowness. They are available for 7 days. 

Coniston Lake, 5^ M. long and f M. broad, is 
164 ft. deep in some places. Its surroundings are 
fine, and the view down upon' it from some neighboring 
mt. is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down 
the lake 3 times daily (fares, Is. 6d. and Is.). Excur* 



ENGLAND. 47 

sions up Coniston Old Man (2577 ft.), Wetherlam, and 
Black Combe Mts. are for the leisurely tourist. 

Goach Services from Ambleside : For the Langdale 
Drive, 6s. ; to Keswick, several times daily, os. 6d. 
single, and 9s. 6d. return tickets. Tlie Langdale Drive 
is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, |\M.; Skelwith 
Bridge, 3; Col with Force, <L\.\ Smithy Houses, 5|; 
Dungeon Gill, 9£ ; Chapel Stile, lSfJ ; High Close, 14 ; 
Grasmere Ch., 15 \ ; Ambleside, 19^. Much of the 
scenery visited on this drive is described in Words- 
worth's " Excursion." 1 

1 Private Carriage Excursions from Ambleside, recom- 
mended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To 
Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers' Water, and hack 
(an exceedingly interesting drive, abounding in wild and 
romantic scenery), 24 M.; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M. 
To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere, Dunmail Raise, 
Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M.; or back by St. 
John's Vale, 37 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by 
Hawkshead, Blelham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M. 
To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Esthwaite 
Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to' Ambleside, 23 M.; or 
across the Ferry and back to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. 
Around Windermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, the 
Ferry, Graythwaite, to Newby Bridge, and back by the E. 
side of Windermere, Bowness to Ambleside, 30 M. Around 
Langdale by Clappersgate, Brathay, Skelwith, Blea Tarn, 
Little Lansrdale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red 
Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M.; or direct by 
Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappersgate to Skelwith, Lough - 
rigg Tarn, High Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Am- 
bleside, 12 M. To the top of Kirkstone, back by vale of 
Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 Ms; or back by Cook's House, 
15 M. To Bowness, back bv Windermere, Cook's House, 
Vale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawkshead, 
back by Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M. 



48 ULLS WATER LAKE. 



From Ambleside to Ullswater Lais.© 

Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from Amble' 
side or from Keswick. During the tourist season a 
coacli leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 a.m. daily. 
The route through Ambleside to the Kirkstone Pass 
passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches 
to the r., passing the old ch. Here and there it is 
very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. Below, 
on the r., is the Stock Ghyll, on the opposite side of 
which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of the Pass, 
called the Travellers' Rest, is said to be the highest in- 
habited house in England. It stands 1,475 ft. above 
the sea-level. Travellers, independent of the coach, 
would better drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up 
the bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall of Trout- 
beck, to the top of the Pass. Descending from the 
Travellers' Rest, you pass on the 1. the Kirk Stone, 
which looks, perhaps, a trifle like a ch. from a point 
half-way down the mt., towards Brothers' Water, a 
little lake, named from the drowning of two brothers in 
its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see 
the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow dis- 
trict, and catch a glimpse of the Irish Sea. The Dove 
Crags, beyond the Brothers' Water Hotel, are extremely 
picturesque. 

Patterdale {Patterdale Hotel; White Lion) stands 
in a pretty valley, a few hundred yards from the head 
of the lake. 1 M. farther on is the Ullswater Hotel, 
first-class. The scenery all about this point is rich and 
varied. The view from the windows of the Ullswater 
Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its 
islands, is very beautiful. (Pares for tour on Ullswater 
Lake, by steam yacht, 3s.. and 2s3 The boats call at 



ENGLAND. "49 

Howtown, and next land passengers close to Pooley 
Bridge, whence coaches run to meet the trains at Pen- 
rith. From Penrith, rail to Keswick. 

Ullswater Lake is 9 M. long, f M. broad, and 
*J10 ft. deep. The upper reach of the lake is the most 
beautiful. Many people prefer this to Lake Derwent- 
water. See Ljjulplis Tower and Ira Force, a waterfall 
80 ft. high. This cascade is the scene of the incident 
on which Wordsworth's poem of the Somnambulist is 
founded. The journey from Ambleside to Ullswater 
usually takes 2f hrs. Wordsworth intended to make 
his home at a cottage under Place Pell, near Patter- 

_ 

dale ; but the owner asked more than the prudent man. 
thought it was worth, and he remained at Grasmere. 
The places in the Ullswater district associated with the 
poet are best approached by the road from Grasmere 
to Helvellyn, leading past Girsdale Tarn. 

From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal 
Mount and Grasmere. 

Those persons who have not taken the Langdale 
Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Amble- 
side, may visit the old homes and the grave of Words* 
worth on their way to Keswick. The coaches stop at 
the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads 
past the Knoll, and the ivy-covered residence in which 
Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house 
is on the 1. Thence the route lies up the Rothay valley 
to Rydal. Note Fox How, Dr. Arnold's old residence 
to the 1., beyond the Rothay. A steep road on the r. 
leads out of Rydal to Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth 
spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. 
As many of the memorials of the poet in his home 
as possible have been preserved unaltered ; but the 



50 GRASMERE. 

old picturesque frontage with its 12 windows, and 
the asli-ti'ee, near which hung the "osier cage" of the 
doves, are gone. The present owner of the house 
declines to show it. The location, is extremely beauti- 
ful. Rydal Falls are at the back of Rydal Hall. 
Guide at cottage below the ch. Returning to the 
main road, the traveller passes through the gorge 
between Nab Scar on the r. and Loughrigg Fell on 
the 1. ; sees on the r. Nab Cottage, in which Hartley 
Coleridge lived for a long time, and where he died; 
and readies Rydal Water, one of the most diminutive 
of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance 
to the delightfully situated Grasmere Lake. It is 1 M. 
long and \ M. broad. An island of 4 acres' area lies in 
its centre. On the border of this lake is the Prince of 
Wales Hotel, a good house. Grasmere {Rothay Hotel ; 
Swan; Red Lion) lies mainly at the N. end of the lake, 
although many of the newer residences border on the 
highway. Knight says: " The cottage at the town end 
of Grasmere, to which Wordsworth came with his 
sister in the last days of the last century, is, even more 
than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime. 
It had once been a public house, bearing the sign of 
the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance 
it was for a lung time, and is still, occasionally named 
'Dove Cottage.' It is a small, two-storied house." 
(See De Quincey's description, in "Recollections of the 
Lakes/' pp. 131, 137.) l Grasmere Ch. is the one 

1 The localities most deeply identified with "Wordsworth 
are : Grasmere, where he lived so long, and is buried ; 
Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days with his .sister, 
by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at Lancrigg, 
where The Prelude was written; Rydal Mount, where he 
lived the latter half of his life, and found one d &e mosi 



ENGLAND. 51 

which Wordsworth drew in "The Excursion," and 
in its cemetery lie lies buried. The interior is as the 
poet described it : there are the " naked rafters in- 
tricately crossed," the oaken benches, the " heraldic 
shield" in the "altar window," etc. After a visit to 
the ch. you can find some very lovely rambles in the 
vicinity. The road to Keswick climbs Dunmail Raise 
Pass, with Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the 
r., and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and 
Westmoreland. Descending on the other side, Thirl- 
mere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the r. and 
part of Skiddaw in the distance. The coach stops 
at the inn at Wythburn. The ch. at Wytliburn is 
line of the smallest in England. From hence the 
ascent of Mt. Helvellyn is easiest. Height. 3118 
ft. ; distance to top from Wythburn, 2 1-2 M. ; time 
required, 1 1-2 hrs. Thirlmere Lake, which sup- 
plies Manchester with water, is 2 1-2 M. long, and 
very narrow. From the W. shore many lovely 
views may be obtained. From an elevation in 
the rbad just beyond this point, Blencathara may be 
seen. The rich Vale of St. John also opens its charm- 
ing vistas on the r.; and not far from the King's Head 
Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Rock, the fairy 
castle of Sir Walter Scott's " Bridal of Triermain," is 

perfect retreats in England; and the old (upper) path he- 
tween Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Sear, his favorite 
walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of 
verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain -summit, « 
stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in 
all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated 
with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had 
never been interpreted before, and added 

" The gleam, 
The lnzht that never was on sea or land. 
The consecration, and the poet's dream." 



52 KESWICK.— DERWENTWATER LAKE. 

obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes 
next; after which the traveller is gratified, with one ox 
the most exquisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the 
Derwent Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions 
of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes. 

Keswick (Hotels: Keswick, attherly. stat. ; Royal 
Oak; Queens; George; Lake) is surrounded by a noble 
company of mts., with Skiddaw, the chief, 3058 ft., 
towering above them. It is a handsome little town, 
and one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- 
hood. 1 M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake 
Derwentwater, in Portinscale, is the Derwentwater 
Hotel (good). 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore 
Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey 
celebrated in verse. The Barrow and Lodore Water- 
falls, the Bowder Stone, Corrowdale Valley, Honister 
Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Force, 
and the ISTewlands Valley may be seen on the excursion 
called the Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- 
veyed in open wagonettes (fares 5s., and Is. for driver) 
through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery. 
Borrowdale is considered one of the finest valleys in 
Great Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes- 
wick is interesting, but fatiguing. 

Derwentwater Lake lies 238 ft. above the sea- 
level ; is 80 ft. deep in the centre, 3 M. long and LJ M. 
wide. From the Friar's Crag, on this Lake, there is a 
magnificent outlook. There are several islands, one of 
which, St. Herbert, was occupied by a hermit monk in 
the 7th century. On Rampsholme Island, the Earls of 
Derwentwater once had a mansion; and from it Lady 
Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family 
jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was 
imprisoned in the Tower of London for taking part 
in the rebellion of 1715. (Charge for boat with boat- 



ENGLAND. 53 

man on the lake, 2s. for the first hour, Is. 6d. for every 
succeeding hour.) For those pressed for time, a drive 
round Derwentwater Lake will give a view of the prin- 
cipal points of scenery. Bassenthwaite Lake begins 
ubout 3 M. N. of the foot of Derwentwater. It is 4t 
M. long and about f M. wide. The river Derwent, 
which carries the waters from the Derwent and Kes- 
wick Lakes, enters it at its head, and leaves it at its 
foot, flowing past Cockermouth and into the sea. 
Bassenthwaite has three promontories on its E. side, 
which is overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often 
visited by tourists, because it lies on the N. outskirt of 
the Lake District: but it is well worth seeing. 

Greta Hall, where the poet iSouthe} 7 spent the 
best part of his life, is a short distance from Kes= 
wick. Walk down the main street to the bridge 
crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be 
had of the Hall. It stands on the r., surrounded by 
trees. From this point to Crosthwaite Ch. is a pleasant 
walk, and in the ch.-yard is Southey's grave. The 
edifice contains a monument to the laureate, consisting 
of a full-length figure. The poetical inscription was 
written by Wordsworth. In the chancel is a monu- 
ment to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the 
Earls of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view. 
A footpath through the meadow called Houray was 
one of Southey's favorite walks. From this point fine 
view of the magnificent group of mts. : on the N., the 
huge mass of Skiddaw; on the E., Wallow Crag; and 
to the S.j the Borrowdale mis. The lead-pencil manu. 
factories near Keswick merit a visit ; so does an in. 
genious model of the Lake District in a museum in the 
town. From Castle Head, \ M. outside Keswick, most 
of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, tli6 
whole of the intervening valley, and Mt. Skiddaw may m 



54 KESWICK. — PENRITH. 

seen. St. John and Crosthwaite Chs. may also be seen 
irom this point. Unless the weather is fine, it is use- 
less to hope for any satisfactory view of the mts. Even 
in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung with 
mists for a large part of the time. About 1^ M. from 
Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are 
the Druids' Stones, formed of 38 stones, the largest of 
which is upwards of 7 ft. high. Near by are the tow- 
ering heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, 
and, in the distance, to the W., an impressive range. 

Ascent of Skiddaw from Keswick. — The distance 
*,o the top is about 5f M. ; time, there and back, 4-6 
hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. A guide is usually 
necessary from Skiddaw to the summit of Blencatharaj 
iistance, about 6 M. ; ground in places very wet. 

The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course 
we recommend), via Penrith and Carlisle ; or can re- 
turn to Liverpool (fares from Keswick, 39s. 2d., 27s. 
2d., 18s.), and thence go to London by the North 

Western Rly., arriving at Euston stat. (fares, by all the 
lines, 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d.; distance, 201f M.) ; the 
Midland, arriving at St. Pancras ; the Great Northern, 
arriving at King's Cross ; or the Great Western, arriv- 
ing at Paddington stat. Free parlor cars are run on 
express trains, both on the L. & N. W. Ry. and the 
Midland Ry. 

From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland* 

From Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. (fares, 4s. 4d., 
Is 10d.). Penrith (Crown Hotel; George') is charm- 
ingly situated. Excursions may be made to Brougham 
Castle and Hall, Arthur's Round Table, Lowther Castle 
and the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curious 



ENGLAND. 55 

old drinking-glass called the "Luck of Eden Hall." 
See ruins of Penrith Castle, a favorite residence of 
Richard III. In the cemetery of the parish ch. is the 
Giant's Grace, an ancient mysterious mound 

Carlisle {County Station Hotel ; Central ; Crown 
and Mitre), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the 
Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates 
back to the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian's 
walk In the early wars between England and Scotland 
it was of great importance. The Castle was built by 
William Rufus. Within it Mary Queen of Scots was 
imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand in 
the front rank ; but its E. window is commonly said to 
be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The ch. was 
originally part of a Norman priory, built of red free- 
stone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Arch- 
deacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of 
Richard II.,, in the E. window, and the exauisite details 
of the flamboyant Gothic work. The walls and windows 
of the choir are Norman; the upper part of the 
choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Decorated. 
See the old abbey gate-house ; and the refectory, now 
used as the chapter- house; also quaint' houses in the 
market-place; and the Moot Hall. 

Beyond Carlisle the rly. enters the Debatable Ground, 
where for centuries the borderers waged war on each 
other. A little farther on is Ecclefechan (Scotland), 
where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. The 
rly. crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : — 

" March, march, Eskdale and Liddesdale, 
All the blue bonnets are over the border " 



56 THE LAND OF BURNa 



SCOTLAND. 

SHORTLY after crossing the Sark River, which i» M*e 
boundary between England and Scotland, the route 
passes Gretna Junction, near which is Gretna Green, 
formerly the resort of runaway couples anxious to be 
married. These marriages, rendered possible by the dif- 
ference between the English and Scotch law, were first 
celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley. 
In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament. 
Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape 
of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of 
Archibald Douglass. It was the birthplace of Edward 
Irving, in 1792. 

The Land of Burns 

can be visited from Glasgow ; but it will be more satis- 
factory to go from Carlisle to Dumfries, pass the night, 
and then proceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made 
in a day. 

Dumfries {Station; Commercial; King's Arms) is 
32^ M. from Carlisle (fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. Id., 2s. 9d.). 
Here Burns lived for several years, and here he died, 
at the house now known as Burns's. He also lived for 
18 months after he became an exciseman, at the foot 
of Bank-St. His Mausoleum is in St. Michael's Ch.- 
yard ; in the vault beneath, lie Burns and his wife 
and son. The Oreyfriars Ch. deserves a visit. 
Most reader? of Scott will remember the story of Grey- 
friars Monastery and of "Kirkpatrick's bloody work." 
Dumfries is the capital of Nithsdale, and its people call 
it ' ' The Queen of the South. " From a border hamlet 



SCOTLAND. D7 

of the 8th century, with a Franciscan convent and a 
castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory 
town. Excursions from Dumfries : — To Lincru- 
den Abbey, \\ M., beautiful ruins of a 12th-century 
Benedictine nunnery, and a favorite resort of Burns. 
Amid this sylvan beauty he composed his " Vision 
of Libertie." — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a 
lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla. 
who built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, em- 
balmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband, 
John Balliol, and had it built in over the high altar. 
Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the monastery for 
Franciscan friars, before whose altar Robert the Bruce 
slew the Red Comyn ; and the old bridge across the 
Kith. — To Terregles (3 M.) and Irongray (5 M.), in 
whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by 
Scott to the memory of Helen Walker ( Jeannie Deans). 
Irongray is the scene of ' 'The Recreations of a Country 
Parson." — To Ellisland farm, where Burns wrote 
" Tarn O'Shanter" and the beautiful ode " To Mary 
in Heaven." 13 M. from Dumfries is the extraordin- 
ary architectural pile of *Drumlanrig Castle, built 
by William, first Duke of Queensberry, who wasted 
princely sums on it. Torthorwald Castle is a massive 
ruin, 4 M. from Dundee. Caerlaverock Castle (9 
M.) is a grand old fortress on the Solway Firth, de- 
scribed in " Guy Manneriug." Lochmaben, Ruthwell, 
and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennan Abbey 
and St. Mary's Isle) may also be visited. Tourists 
who wish to view the extreme S, coast of Scotland 
should go to Stranraer from Dumfries (69 M.) ; and 
from Stranraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgo a Those who 
would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy 
a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (81-| M. ; fares, 
13s. 8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9|d.) At Mauchline (Loudoun 



58 AYR. — ALLOWAY. 

Arms Hotel) everything speaks of Burns; his farm of 
Mossgiel is 1;§ M. N. ; there he was married to Jean 
Armour; there his plough turne'd up the mouse's nest. 
In Mauchiine is " Poosie Nansie's" cottage, cele- 
brated for the meeting of the ' ' Jolly Beggars. " If you 
have time, walk through woods and fields from Mauch- 
iine to Montgomerie. There stands the pretty man- 
sion where once "Highland Mary" lived as an humble 
dairymaid. From Mauchiine a branch line, 11 M. 
long, leads to Ayr {Station; King's Arms; Dalblair), 
to which many pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns. 
It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr. 
Seethe "Twa Brigs" of Bnrns's poem. The Auld 
Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of 
Alexander III., in the 13th century; the new bridge, 
from 1877. A Gothic tower, 183 ft. high, containing 
a statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in 
which the hero is said to have been confined. Crom- 
well built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few frag- 
ments remain. Take a carriage to Burns's Cottage, 
the Monument, and Alio way Kirk (1^ hrs. ; fare, about 
4s. for a party). Walk down through the long and 
exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude 
home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room 
has been transformed into a kind of museum, and 
there some of the poet's original MSS. may be seen. 
Not far beyond is Alloway Kirk, roofless and desolate. 
The walls are in a fair state of preservation, and the 
bell remains; but the woodwork has been all used 
up for memorials. New Alloway Oh. is on the other 
side of the road. There is little to see in the ' ' auld 
haunted kirk," so go on to the bridge over the "Bonny 
Doon," built since Burns's time; up stream you will 
see the "Auld Brig" immortalized in "Tam o' Shan- 
ter." An excursion along- the Beautiful Doon in the 



SCOTLAND. 59 

summer-time is most delightful. The Burns Monu- 
ment stands near the new bridge. See, on the ground, 
floor, memorials of the poet, and the Bible which he 
gave to " Highland Mary." Good view from upper 
part of monument. Note the statues of Tarn O'Slian- 
ter and Souter Johnnie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of 
Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of 
many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams 
or on foot. Mt. Ollphant, where Burns lived when 

child, and Tarbolton, where he passed his early 
manhood, and where he wrote " John Barleycorn," 
!i Now, whistling winds," etc., are but a few miles 
from Alio way. 

A rly. runs S. from Ayr to Maybole (9 M.),.the 
Id capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott's " Ayr. 
hire Tragedy," near which are the rich ruins of Cross- 
aguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and Dunure Castle ; 
lso the splendid Culzean Castle, where- the Earls of 
assilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over 
he sea. 7 M. S. of Maybole are the ruins of Tur/e- 
erry Castle, made famous by Robert Bruce and Wat- 
er Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Q-iroan, 10 M. 
ff shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea, 
,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther 
S. to Portpatrick ; Stranraer ; Glenluce, near the ruins 
bf Luce Abbey (founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey; 
picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the 
scene of ocott's " Bride of Lammermoor ; " and other 
ooalities famous in the chronicles of the borders and 
phe sea, — the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Cove- 
lanters. 

Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in an after, 
jioon. (Fares, 5s., 4s., 3s.) Leaving Ayr for Glas- 
gow, in 6^ M. the train reaches Troon, the chief sea- 
port and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the 



til) Paisley. — Glasgow. 

great ruins of Dundonald Castle, the home of tne 
founder of the Stuart dynasty; a branch line runs 
(9 M.) to Kilmarnock, where Burns's poems were first 
published. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes 
Irvine, where the poet Montgomery was born, where 
Burns lived for a time, and where Robert Bruce sur« 
rendered to the English army under Percy. "6\ M. 
farther on is Kilioinuing , with the ruins of an ancient 
priory, famous in Masonic annals ; and also the impos- 
ing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Mouto-ompries. 

Paisley {New Globe; County) contains a magnifi- 
cent Town Hall; a jail, which looks like a palace; a 
museum of local antiquities and relics ; and the Abbey 
Church, founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley 
was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic re- 
ligion. The chapel of the abbey contains a " sound- 
ing aisle," so called from its remarkable echo. The 
nave, which remains entire, is used as a parish ch. 
Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance 
until the last century ; but now its trade includes weav- 
ing, shawls, and thread- making (the establishments of 
Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in 
the world). " Christopher North " was bom here. 
Not far from Paisley is the farm of Moorhouse, where 
Robert Pollok, author of " The Course of Time," was 
born, in 1798. See Crookston Castle, where Queen 
Mary was betrothed to Daruley, half-way between 
Piisley and 

Glasgow. 

(Hotels: St Enoch's; Windsor; Grand; N. British; 
Yictoria; Central). The American tourist will find a 
vast deal to occupy his attention in this, the second 
city in population and commercial importance in Great 
Britain. A small Roman colony once occupied this 



SCOTLAND. 6i 

«tb. iVbout the year 560 St. Mungo founded a 
religious house here, and the village was nurtured 
by the Church for a thousand years. At the Rt 
formation Glasgow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and 
in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the 
18th century it began to increase enormously-, 
and in 1901 the population was 760.000. The im- 
portation of tobacco from Virginia and Mary- 
land was long one of the chief branches of industry. 
To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liv- 
erpool in shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning, 
Newcastle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron 
ship-building, and Wolverhampton in iron furnaces. 
The perseverance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde 
into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glas- 
gow was the first city in Europe to possess a regular 
line of steamboats. In 1812-18 steam-packets crossed 
the Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. It 
was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected his famous 
invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of 60 
tons, left Glasgow for the New World. The statistics 
show that 13,071 ships (6,602,501 tons) entered or 
left the port in 1880. The commercial fleet of Glasgow 
was 1,088 ships and 532 steamers. The movement of 
Greenock was 7,890 ships (1,943,200 tons). 

Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge, from 
which there is a fine view of the * Broomielaw, or 
Harbor, on which more than £2,000,000 has been 
spent. The Broomielaw is 400 ft. wide, and extends 
down the stream for 1^ M., walled on either side by su- 
perb ranges of docks, along which ships are laid three 
or four deep. IVom the Bridge upstream a good view 
of the Custom House on the N. bank is commanded. 
The works on the Clyde have cost £8,500,000, <tf 



62 GLASGOW. 

$42,500,000. In 1760 James Watt reported a maxi. 
mum depth of water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. 
Now, as the result of the constant dredging, vessels 
drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow is in 
the famous Lanarkshire black' district, which has a 
great coal-field, rich also in seams of ironstone. There 
are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S. 
and S. E. is lighted up nightly with their glow as if by 
a great conflagration. 

The E. section of the city includes the main business 
part, and the objects of antiquarian interest. The W. 
is the section for residences of the fashionable people ; 
and on the S. are the great public works. Buchanan- 
St. is handsomely built, and contains the finest shops 
and offices. Argyle-St., 3 M. long (including Trongatt, 
and Gallowgate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St. 
is an avenue extending the whole length of the citv 
and passing through George Square. This is a cen- 
tral point, and lies close to the two principal rly. stats. 
In the centre stands the Scott Monument, a fluted col- 
umn surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and 
W. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen Yictoria 
and the Prince Consort. There are also figures of 
James Watt, by Chautrey ; the exquisite statue of Sir 
John Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Elaxman ; one 
of Di, Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to Camp- 
bell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert Burns, Lord 
Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the General 
Post- Office, plain but spacious; and on the E. is the new 
municipal buildings. The Bank of Scotland and the 
Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The Royal 
Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colon- 
nades. Strangers are admitted to the news-room, 130 
ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched roof. 
See Hutcheson's Hospital. Corinthian buildings with a 



SCOTLAND. 63 

high tower, founded in 1641 by two brothers ; and 
also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow Assembly Rooms; 
also St. David's Ch. and the Mitchell Library. In 
Arggle-St., at the so-called Cross of Glasgow, whence 
High-St., Gallowgate, London-St., and Saltmarket di- 
verge, stands an equestrian statue of William III. At 
the corner of the High-St. and Trongate formerly 
stood the old Court House, in front of which criminals 
were executed, and the ancient jail, of which Walter 
Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a relic of the old 
municipal splendor. The ancient Saltmarket, Princes* 
St., and Kings-St., and the adjacent closes and wynds, 
on Saturday evenings afford scenes of violence and 
brutality among the lower classes. Walk up High-St. 
on the E. side from the Trongate to the Cathedral. 
See old Glasgow College (built 1632-52, in quaint and 
gloomy monastic forms), now a rly. stat. Opposite, at 
the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in 
which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther 
on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where, in 
1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their num- 
ber of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy's 
head in twain ; and a little beyond this is the homely 
Barony Ch.. once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod.' 
The Cathedral is famous as one of the two Catholic 
chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation. 
The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magis- 
trates in 1579 to have it torn down • but the corpora- 
tions of the city rose in arms, and prevented it, Two 
stone "idols" were taken out of their nooks and broken 
to pieces, as Scott has told us, " and the auld Kirk 
stood as crouse as a cat when the fiaes are kaimed ol! 
her, and a'body was alike pleased." (Admittance daily, 
except Sun., 10-6 ; Tues. and Thurs,, 2d.) Th.s noble 
structure is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mungo, 



64 GLASGOW CATHEDRAL, 

the founder of the sec >jt' Glasgow, who was buried on 
the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic- 
turesquely located ; and above it, on terraces almost 
oriental in their construction, arises the Necropolis, 
the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubber- 
ies and crowds of monuments ; approached from the 
cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement 
of the monuments is very remarkable, and forms a 
noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most 
noted monuments are those of John Knox the Re- 
former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major 
Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the 
fast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its 
forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and 
the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The 
original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I., 
in 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and 
the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the 
fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. 
The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design 
is French, but the mouldings and details are English. 
The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 
windows are of very beautiful workmanship, The en- 
trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor- 
mation, the ch. was divided into two parts, and service 
was held in each. For interesting details, see Fergus- 
son's Architecture. The * Crypt is unique in beauty, 
and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi- 
tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft. 
high), seme of which are 18 ft in circumference; and 
illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin- 
ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. 
In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the 
S. E. corner is St. Mungo' s Well. See also the tomb 
of Edward Irving, who died at Glasgow in 1834 



SCOTLAND. 65 

tn "Rob Roy" there is an interesting description of 
{;his crypt. Other things to note are the stained- 
glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex* 
planations of the windows, 2d.) ; the Dripping Aisle s> 
so called from the perpetual dripping of water from the 
roof; the Choir, locally known as the High Ch., now 
used as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here ;. 
behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi- 
ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with 
inscriptions to the memory of local notables. 

The new University, the most imposing modern 
edifice in Scotland, is approached through West End 
Park: take the footpath from the bridge over the 
Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The Univer- 
sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower, 
310 ft. high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert 
Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng- 
lish. The buildings will have cost £500,000. The 
museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his- 
tory, is open daily, 10-3 (admission, 6d.). In the 
Hunterian Library, valuable series of early printed 
books. The University was founded about 1450 by 
Bishop Turnbull. In 1560 Queen Mary endowed it 
with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the 
city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in 
the last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and lleid, 
Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso- 
ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden. The 
Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections 
of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.) ; 
also a marble statue of Pitt, by Elaxman, and por- 
traits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, Sun- 
days excepted. See Si. Andrew's Palace and the 
Kelvin Grove Park and Museum. The park contains 
a fountain commemorating the introduction of water 

^5 



6Q DUMBAKTON CASTLE. 

from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Industrial 
Museum. Near the University is the New Western 
Infirmary. The beautiful squares and terraces in the 
W. contain the homes of the rich merchants, the "to- 
bacco lords," and the great ship-builders. 

Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. 'along 
the Clyde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Kelson, 
and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching 
on summer Sunday evenings. In this park Prince 
Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here, 
also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the 
steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen s 
Park is the village of Langside, where Queen Mary met 
with her final defeat, in 1568. A memorial stone marks 
the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle. 

Excursions around Glasgow. — To Greenock, 
by the river ; past the suburb of Govan and the ship- 
yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of 
Renfrew, near which Somerled, Thane of 'Argyll, was 
defeated and slain in 1164 ; Erskine Eerry, where the 
Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise 
of a peasant ; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick 
Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle 
and the end of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint, 
with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced 
steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, 
at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lomond's outlet) 
and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 
560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's 
Tower. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there ; and 
his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a 
tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Bock at St. 
Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot- 
land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with 
batteries.. It was the capital of a Roman province, 



SCOTLAND. 67 

and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It 
was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt. 
Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1652 
it was taken by Cromwell's troops. At the portculis 
may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith, 
his betrayer. At the summit the remains of a 
Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some 
time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of 
Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King 
Robert Bruce died, in 1829. Greenock {Tontine 
Hotel; White Hart; Royal; rail, from Glasgow, 
Is. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief sea- 
ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situ- 
ated. Vast new docks are being built. The ship- 
yards are among the largest on the Clyde. The 
ocean steamers for New York take their passengers 
and mails at the Tail of the Bank. Fine view, from 
the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbarton- 
shire. Burns's "Highland Mary" is buried in the 
old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James 
Watt, by Chan trey, in a memorial building in Union- 
St. Travellers going to Oban and Inveraray should 
take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is 
Helensburgh (Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty 
town, much frequented in summer by pleasure- 
seekers. The Gfareloch is the name of a fine sea- 
basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from 
Helensburgh for about 7£ M. Its shores are covered 
with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle, 
etc. The famous Glen Fruin lies on the E. 

Another good excursion can be made in one day by 
Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing thvo\xgh.Ruther~ 
glen, a royal burgh as early as 1126. Hamilton 
(County Hotel; Clydesdale) contains many interest- 
ing historical places. See site of King's Head, where 
Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland; and 



68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANAKK. 

the old Steeple and Pillory, built in the reign of 
Charles I. Hamilton Palace, seat of the Duke of 
Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ; 
2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzow Castle. On Both- 
well Bridge, 2 M. N. of Hamilton, a famous encoun- 
ter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces 
took place in 1679- A little beyond is Bothwell, noted 
for its old ch., where Robert, Duke of Rothesay, was 
married. Bothwell Castle (admission, Tues. and 
Fri., 10-3 ; see local guide-books) is on the r. bank 
of the Clyde, 1 M. from the Tillage. The ruins afford 
an almost perfect example of Norman architecture. 
See the circular towers ; remains of the chapel, with 
shafted windows ; and a circular dungeon called Wal- 
lace's Beef -barrel. The walls are covered with ivy and 
wild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell 
is extremely interesting. 

Lanark {Clydesdale Hotel) was the scene of many 
of Wallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the 
parish ch. Corra Linn is 1^ M. S., a beautiful fall 
of 85 ft. ; and the pretty Bonnington Linn is \ M. 
beyond. Stonebj/res Linn is 2-§ M. N. of Lanark, near 
the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained. 

The Scottish Highlands. 

A Bound Trip from Glasgow to Glasgow by way of Lock 
Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Callander > 
from Callander to Oban : with. Excursions from Oban t6 
Stafa, Iona, and Inverness ; and from Oban to Glasgow > 
by the Crinan Canal and Rothesay. 

We recommend this route as giving a wide survey 
of typical Scotch mt. 3 lake, and coast scenery, within 
a brief period and at small cost. The trip through 
the lochs and the Trossachs to Callander begins at the. 



SCOTLAND. 69 

Queen-St. stat. in Glasgow, at 7.40 a.m. Buy a 
ticket for Inversnaid, the point at which Loch Lo- 
mond is left (fare, 9s. 3d.), and proceed by train to* 
Balloch (20 M.). The route passes Dumbarton, and 
gives a good view of Wallace's Seat; through the 
valley where, in the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the 
historian and novelist, was born ; and up the glen of 
the Leven's transparent water. At Balloch the train 
stops close to the steamer. 

Loch Lomond is certainly very beautiful when 
the sunlight plays upon the water and on the guard- 
ian mts. It is about 23 M, long, and, at its S. end,. 
5 M. broad. Under the base of Ben Lomond it is 
120 fathoms deep. The area covered by water is 
20,000 acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the lake, 
bearing ruins of ancient monasteries and castles. 
Most of these belong to the Duke of Montrose, who 
uses Inchmurrin, the largest, as a deer-park. " Loch 
Lomond," says Baddeley, "has neither the match- 
less depth and delicacy of coloring which character- 
izes the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur 
of Loch Coruisk, nor, in fairness let us add, the 
dignity of Loch Maree ; bitf . . . it blends to- 
gether in one scene a greater variety of the elements 
which we admire in lake scenery than any other 
Scottish loch." The steamer leaves Balloch Castle 
on the r. ; passes to the r of Inchmurrin, with its 
ruined Castle, and calls first at Balmaha. Near by 
is Inchcailloch, the " Island of Women '' (so called 
because a nunnery once existed there). It is the 
burying-place of the Macgregors. The next landing- 
place is Luss, on the 1. ; a picturesque little village,, 
with a good hotel. Fine view of the lake from Stone 
Brae hill As boat moves N., the great mass of Ben 
Lomond comes fully into view. Bowardenna?i, on 
r., has a hotel. Here is best starting-point for the- 



70 BEN LOMOND. — TARBET. 

ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favor, 
ite climb in Scotland. The rough pony-track begins 
opposite the hotel, and climbs over the ridge between 
Loch Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascents also 
are made from Inversnaid and " Aberfoil. In clear 
weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the 
Firth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowarden- 
nan, 2-3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. 
Opposite Rowardeunan is Glen Douglas (Inveruglas. 
Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch 
Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by ferry across 
the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of 
Ben Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to 

Tarbet affords a good view of Ben Lomond ; it is 
charmingly situated, 8 M. from head of loch. From 
thence coach may be taken to Loch Long, or to In- 
verary by Gleucroe (24 M. ; fare, 8s.). Loch Long 
{salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well- 
wooded isiinnus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. 
high. From here the road to Inverary turns N., 
and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary 
{Argyll Arms ; George) is a small town celebrated 
as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll 
{the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the ducal 
residence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful 
grounds. This point may be reached by other routes 
from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the 
[des (fares, 7s. 6d., 6s., 5s.). 

From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, 
where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The head 
of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above is Rob 
Roys Cave, a narrow opening in the bank near the 
water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his 
prisoners. Ardturis the last town on the lake; coaches 
tc Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban. 



SCOTLAND. 71 

Inversnaid has a comfortable hotel. The^e is a 
scramble for places on the coaches for. Loch Katrine; 
and the canny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person. 
The Inversnaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met 
the " Highland Girl," of w J, om he sang so sweetly. 
Opposite Inversnaid is Inveruglas Isle, on which are 
the ruins of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The 
road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep 
hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes 
of Hob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers- 
naid, erected to check the depredations of Rob Roy's 
band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there ; and 
Lock Arklet, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a 
bay near the W. end of Loch Katrine. At the hotel 
here a good lunch can be obtained. 

Loch Katrine (or Cateran, " Robbers' Lake ") is 
Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 
people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed 
from this lovely basin for 34 M. The aqueduct re- 
quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £1,500,000. 

A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past 
Ellen's Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake "), the Silver 
Strand, and the Goblin's Cave ; and affords glimpses 
of " huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 M. long, and 
averages f M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must 
have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems " one bur- 
nished sheet of living gold." 

You land where all the beauties of the lake are 
concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up 
through tlie gorge to the Trossac'hs Hoisl (1 M.). The 
Trossachs, the " bristling country," gains in loveli- 
ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a 
ride through this leafy glen, with the rain rustling in 
the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to 
Loch Achray, between the range of Ben A'an, on the 



72 LOCH ACHRAY.— -LOCH VENNACHAI 

r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In 
this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan 
and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most pro- 
saic traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter 
Scott's poems are good companions here. In Scott's 
early days there was no road through this pass. The 
Trossachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excur- 
sions thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the 
Pass of Beal-nam-bo. By the Aberfoyle coach 
from the Trossachs you have finer view but you 
miss the Brig o' Turk and much else of great 
interest. 

Distances by Road. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs 
Hotel, 1 M.; Loch Achray, 2£; Brig o' Turk, 3^; 
Loch Vennachar, 4£ ; Coilantogle Ford, 7 ; Callander, 
9£. Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil 
beauty. It is 3 M. long, and the shores are clad with 
copse to the very water's edge. "The Lady of the 
Lake " will be found the best guide here. You next 
reach the Brig o' Turk, where, in the famous chase, as 
Sir Walter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode 
alone." Near this bridge over Achray Water is the 
blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Fine 
view of Ben V'enue from here. Next comes the Dun- 
craggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. 
long), the "Lake of the Fair Valley." On the N. 
shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God " (2,875 ft.). To 
climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny is an 
admirable excursion. Here you are in the 
real Highland country. The hills are aglow with 
purple colors; the black-faced cattle with widely 
projecting horns look down defiantly at you 
from the steep pasturages; a countryman in kilt 
trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle 
Ford. "Clan -Alpine's outmost guard," where Rodeis- 
ick Dhu challenged Fitz James, and bring up in CaJ- 



SCOTLAND. 73 

lander. Here you may take train to Stirling and 
Edinburgh; but if you desire to see the real High, 
lands, continue on our route. 

Callander (Dreadnauglit ; Hydropathic; An- 
caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious country, 
1^ M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- 
ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny 
to Strathyre, returning by train (8| M. to walk). It 
is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 his. ; pony and 
guide, 10s.), and stand on the smooth green summit 
where the ancient Druid fires were kept. 

From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class, 
12s. ; time, 3-4 hrs. This line is one of the most 
beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex- 
pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost 
£645,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base 
of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Pass of Leny, which ex- 
tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This 
loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by 
high nits. Near the Falls of Ijeny is the churchyard 
of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the " Lady of the 
Lake." Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosses 
the River Baloag, and passes Strathyre and King's- 
House stat.j whence Balquhidder and Jjoch Foil can be 
visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy- 
covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover 
the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately 
connected with the history of the Macgregors. The 
road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn 
and Ben Forlich, on the E. It next traverses Glen 
Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft. 
above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Dochart, 
above which rises Ben More, is next passed; after 
which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) is 
reached. A fine stretch of Highland landscape is seen 



74 LOCHAWE.— OBAN. 

shortly before arriving at Dalmally. Just beyond 
Dalmally. Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque 
of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. 
Near it is Ben Cruachan (3,611 ft.); and in the lake 
are many islands, the largest being the Island of the 
Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchum 
Castle; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are 
the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former 
seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards 
the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on a 
viaduct. From Taynuilt, on Loch Etive, a steamer 
may be taken, and a circular trip to Clencoe (34 M.) 
and Balachulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Connell 
Ferry, near the Falls of Connell. To the r. stands 
the ivy-mantled Ardchattan Priory, built in 1231 by 
the Lord of Lome, and burned during the wars of 
Montrose. 

Oban (hotels, good, but expensive: Gt. Western; 
Alexandra ; Caledonian ; Station ; King's Arms ; 
Columbia ; Argyll ; and on the hill, the Craig- Ard) 
is the most central point for excursions through this 
weird northern land of lochs and islands, which has 
.always had a strange glamour of romance about it. 
It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables 
and members of the English nobility and the re- 
public of letters. Oban extends along and above a 
pretty bay, and is the most accessible place 1ST. of 
Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few 
yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. distant, 
nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the 1ST. end of 
the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the 
Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descend- 
ants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerr era, 
4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay. 
It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor- 
way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his 
disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also, 



SCOTLAND. 75 

A.iu A «uv*^x il. died, in 1249. The seaward view from 
the heights, reached by Craigard road, is very fine, 
Scott made the popularity of Oban by his poem, " The 
Lord of the^ Isles," the scene of which is laid here- 
abouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine promenade 
along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E., 
was the seat of the Scottish, monarchs for more than 
3 centuries (a. d. 300-600). There was the famous 
Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. 
Admission to the castle, free. 

To Staffa and Iona is a sea voyage of about 90 jVL 
(10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a.m. Fare, about 
20s., including the landings at Staffa and Iona. The 
steamer passes on the r. Dunollie and Maiden Island, 
and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of Lismore, near 
which is the Lad// Rock, where, according to tradition, 
a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the 
rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound 
of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland;, 
crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived 
Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good 
Words ; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alex- 
ander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Caliach 
Point, whence a good view N. can generally be had as 
far as Skye ; and then goes S. to 

The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of 
irregular oval' shape, and \\ M. around. This island 
and Iona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When 
the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed 
in small boats into the mouth of Fingal's Cave, 60- 
70 ft. in height, supporting an entablature of 30 ft. 
additional. The pillars by which it is bounded on the 
W. side are 36 ft. high-' on the E. only _ 18 ft. The 
length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained througn 
the end of the causeway at low water. The front and 



70 IONA.-CALEDONIAN CANAL 

sides are composed of countless ranges of columns. 
A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staifa, to take 
care of the sheep; but the noice of the wave<i was so 
dismal that they begged to be taken away 8 M. S. 
is Iona (4 square M. in area), which was founded in 
the 6th century by St. Columba and the Culdees, and 
often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the 
ruins of the Nunnery of St. Mary, dating from the 13th 
century; and the ancient Cathedral ; also the great 
Stone Cross, the only one remaining of 360 once stand- 
ing on the island, but broken and thrown into the sea 
at the Reformation. The run back to Oban by the S. 
of Mull is, in fine weather, very charming. Do not 
forget plenty of wraps and waterproofs. 

Another excursion, made in one day, is from Oban to 
Loch Wive, Glen Etive, and Glencoe, and thence to 
Balachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time, about 
10 hrs. ; fare, by rail and steamer, 25s. Another is 
from Oban to Ford by the Pass of Melfort, returning 
by Loch Awe and the Oban Ely. This may be made 
comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Fares, 17s., 
15s. 6d. Another is to Fort William, Ben Nevis, and 
Banavie, interesting, but long, for vacation tourists. 

The Caledonian Canal. —People who have time 
to go to Inverness should take steamer through the 
great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 60| M. 
long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M., 
as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great 
Glen of Scotland were utilized. The depth of water is 
about 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves Oban at 
5 p.m., and passengers sleep at Banavie (Banavie 
Hotel) or Fort William (Caledonian). Loch 
Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous 
for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the 
keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note 



SCOTLAND. 77 

Xnverlochy Castle, famous in ancient wars, near the 
mouth of the Lundie. From Fort William to Banavie 
is 3 M. Ben Nevis, near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the 
highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown 
porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures ; and on itt 
crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. 
in diameter, including ail the chief peaks of Scotland. 
From Banavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3^-5 hrs. 
(descent, 1| hrs.). Glen Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly 
after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.) 
the ruined Tor Castle. On the W. side of Loch Lochy 
see the ruined home of Lor/del, whose fidelity and exile 
are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long ; and a canal, 
2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central 
lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest. 
On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle, burned in 
the revolution of 1745 ; and near the castle is "The 
Well of Seven Heads," commemorating the vengeance 
on the murderers of the Keppochs. At- Aberchalder 
the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- 
sengers can walk down in about 1^ hrs. At Fort 
Augustus is the College of St. Benedict, a vast pile of 
buildings in the Early English Gothic style. Loch 
Ness, "the loch of the cataract," is 24 M. long, and 
has a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier of Foyers the 
steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the 
beautiful Fall of Foyers (1 M. S.), "the most magnifi- 
cent cataract in Britain." The height of the larger 
fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of 
the scene. There is a charming route along the hills, 
between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country 
for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak 
of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle, 
oesieged in 1303 by the troops of Edward 1= The 
guides show an arrangement in the windows for pour* 



78 ■ INVERNESS-NAIRN. 

ing molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from TTrquhart, 
Loch Dochfour is entered by a narrow passage, £ M. 
long ; and the steamer presently reaches Muirtown } 
a suburb of 

Inverness {Alexandra; Royal; Caledonian; Station; 
Imperial). This venerable capital of the Highlands 
is situated at the mouth of the river Ness, where the 
basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen 
of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, 
James I., Queen Mary, Montrose, and other famous 
Scots are connected with its history. The new 
Cathedral of St. Andreiv is a beautiful decorated 
Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of Culloden, 
where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally 
extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks 
the place where the battle took place ; and the large 
bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland took 
up his position. An excursion may be made from 
Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by 
Shakespeare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial 
strongholds. Splendid view from the battlements. 
Nairn, 15£ M. from Inverness, is a fashionable resort 
for sea-bathing. Near it is Auldearn, where Mon- 
trose won a great battle over the Covenanters, who 
lost 2,000-3,000 men. The Inverness region was the 
scene of Hugh Miller's geological researches. Persons 
who have come from Oban to Inverness may go 
down to Edinburgh via Stirling (213J M. ; fares, 
34s. 6d., 25s. 10d., 18s.). 

From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the 
Crinan Canal. This charming journey may be 
made between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. (fares, 13s., 7s. 6d.); 
and we recommend it as the test way back. 
The Chevalier, Grenadier, Columba, are mag- 
nificent boats, equipped on an American scale 
of comfort. From Oban the boats go down 
the Sound of Kerrera, pass Gylen Castle and 



SCOTLAND, 79 

ibe island of Midi, through the Firth of Lome, and 
the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two 
places where the boat emerges into open water, and so 
nothing is to be feared from sea-sickness. The route 
lies inside the island of Seil to Black mill Bay, and past 
the mouth of Loch Craignhh, leaving Shima and Luing 
Islands on the r. At Crinan passengers are trans- 
ferred from the boat to a little steamer, and carried 
through the Crinan Canal, 9 M. long, to Loch Fyne. 
'The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate the necessity 
of doubling the Mull of Kintyre, a dangerous route of 
70 M. The views are pretty, and the passage of the 9 
locks is curious ; the journey is well worth taking. At 
Ardrishaig passengers go on the Columba, a large 
and line steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s.). 
Look well to your bas^age. From Ardrisliaiff the boat 
moves down Loch Fyne to Tarbert. Good views of 
the peaks of Ben Cruachan on the N., and the Arran 
mts. on the S. After a pleasant passage through the 
picturesque Kyles of Bute, a strait between Bute and 
the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay (Queen's- 
Hotel; Royal; Bate Arms), a handsome town of 
about 8,000 inhab., the capital of the island of Bute 
(18 X 5 M. in area), standing by a fine bay. Here are 
the ruins of Rothesay Castle, built before 1100; 
and once a royal residence. The dukedom of 
Rothesay was the first conferred in Scotland. The 
brother of the Earl of Argyll burned the castle in 
1685. See the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of 
St. Mary. Rothesay is a favorite summer resort. The 
climate is very mild and genial. Consumptive invalids 
have found a decided benefit at Rothesay. Hydro- 
pathic establishments near the town. From Rothesay 
to Dunoon (Argyll; Crown; McColVs) is a sail of 
10 M. Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on 



60 STIRLING. 

the Clyde, ana the neighborhood is picturesque. From 
Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passengers 
ean save about 1 hr. by taking train from Greenock to 
Glasgow. 

Glasgow to Stirling, Perth, Dundee, 
Aberdeen, and Edinburgh. 

We now recommend the traveller to go by rail (30 M.; 
fares, 5s 10d., 2s. 5d.) from Glasgow direct to 

Stirling {Golden Lion; Royal; Lennox), one 
Df the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on 
the river Forth; and its Castle stands on the top of a 
huge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. 
Here Alexander I. died in 1124- ; and in 1304 the stout 
^ortress sustained a three-months' siege by Edward I. 
All the besieging implements in the Tower of London 
were brought up; and it was due to one of these ter- 
rible engines, called " The Wolf," that the castle sur- 
rendered. This was the key of the main passage 
between the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II. 
fought the fatal battle of Bannockburn, in his endeavor 
to raise the siege laid to the proud castle. Edward 
Balliol captured it after the death of Bruce; and King 
David recovered it only after a violent siege. It was 
a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II. and 
James V. were born here ; James III. built the Par- 
liament House ; James IV. made it his favorite resi- 
dence. James V. built the Palace, which occupies the 
S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and gro- 
tesque. A few of the original " Stirling heads " — 
wooden effigies of the Scotch kings — maybe seen in 
the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was 
taken by Gen. Monk in 1051, and beat off Prince 
Charles in 1745. In the Douglas Room the powerful 



SCOTLAND. 81 

Earl of Douglas was stabbed by his sovereign. 
Stirling Castle is now an infantry barrack. The 
view from the battlements is imposing. The Vale of 
Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A 'an, Ben 
Ledi, are all distinctly seen. N.-E. are the Ochil 
Hills; S., the Campsie Hills; and on the JST., the 
Abbey Craig, Cambuskenneth Abbey, the Wallace' 
Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. See the Bruce 
Monument; the Back Walk "W. of the Castle Rock; 
the Grey friars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. 
(James VI. was crowned there in 1567, , and John 
Knox preached the coronation sermon); Argyll's 
Lodging and Mar's Work, the most interesting of: 
the old houses; the Town House, in Broad-St., in 
front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Arch- 
bishop of Scotland, was hanged in 1571; Coivan's- 
Hospital; the Cemetery (many statues), S. of the 
Esplanade ; the Old Bridge, near which was fought 
the battle of Stirling (1297), when the Scots under 
.Wallace defeated the English. A carriage to the 
Castle costs 2s. 6d. 

Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth 
Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the richest 
abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace Monument 
(by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 feet high, on a rock 
called Abbey Craig (560 feet). — To Lake of Men- 
teith and beautiful Aberfoil, on the river Forth. — To- 
Bridge of Allan (3 IvI.), resorted to for the Airthrey 
chalybeate water. Dunblane (Stirling Arms), near 
by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St. Blane, a 
good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt 
in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559. 
Battlefield of Sheriffmuir (1715) close by. Beyond 
Dunblane, is Doune Castle. — To Bannockburn,where 
Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward II. 
and 100,000 Englishmen, restoring the indepen- 



.82 PERTH, — DUNKELD. 

dence of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linlithgow 
Palace, — a favorite seat of the kings of Scotland. 

Perth (Station; British; Royal George; Queen's; 
Salutation) may be visited from Stirling (69 M. ; fares, 
5^. Gd., 4s. 2d., 2s. 9d.) A superbly situated city, 
of 30,000 inhab., with monuments to Scott and Prince 
Albert, and a handsome new Anglican cathedral. In 
the quaint Gli. of St. John, John Knox preached. The 
North Inch and South Inch, by the side of the Tay, are 
the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle 
described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agricola 
established Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al- 
ready a town ; and from the overthrow of the Picts 
until 1437 (000 years) it was the capital of Scotland. 
In 1210 it became a royal burgh ; in 1310 Robert 
Bruce stormed its walls • and in 1437 James I. was 
murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is be- 
lieved to be that described by Scott as the home of the 
" Fair Maid.". Scone Palace, on the site of the 
famous old Abbey of Scone, in which the Scottish kings 
were crowned, is %\ M. N. 

The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from 
Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to 
Wick, passes through some of the loveliest scenery in 
Scotland. Dunkeld (Bimam; Royal), on this line, 
10 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathedral, and -is close 
to Bimam Rill. On this line also is the Pass of Killie- 
crankie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field 
where Dundee's Highland clans crushed William III.'s 
redcoats in 1689, is near by. Fitlochrie (Fisher's 
Hotel) and Blair Athole (At hole. Arms ; Bridge of 
Tilf) are the best points for excursions. 

Prom Perth a trip can be made (22 M.; fares, 3s. 6d., 
2s. 6d., Is. 9d.) to Dundee (Queens Hotel ; Royal ; 
Royal British Hotel), the third town in Scotland in 



SCOTLAND. 83 

population (150,000), and the principal seat of the Brit- 
ish linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the 
Taj, 12 M. from its mouth, aud has a fine range of 
docks, covering 40 acres. See the Customs Offices, 
and the Royal Arch ; also the Esplanade, running from 
L he Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, where the Ta;v 
Bridge had its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft, 
high, is all that remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founded, 
by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return from the 
Crusades. The Royal Exchange, in Albert-Square, the 
Albert Institute, and the Free Library are worth visit- 
ing. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brechin, 
with interesting ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an 
ancient round tower ; Montrose, a quaint little seaport, 
once a royal burgh ; Bunottar Castle, towards Aber- 
deen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ; and Arbroath, 
a busy port, with fine ruins of an abbey founded in 
1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave, 
neat, and picturesque port, with the oldest university 
in Scotland (founded 1411), and the Madras College. 
It is "a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins," having 
the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the myste- 
rious Tower of St. Regulus, part of the castle-palace 
of the primates of Scotland, a beautiful fragment of the 
Dominican monastery, and two fine old chs. From 
Dundee to Forfar (21 M.; fares, 3s. 8d., 2s. 9d., Is. 
9d.) is a pleasant journey. In the County Hall of 
Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, placed as a gag 
on the mouths of the miserable victims burned for 
witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is 
a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott and 
Shakespeare. From Forfar those who have the time 
may go along the coast (fares, 9s. fid., 7s. 2d., 4s. 9d.) 
to Aberdeen {Imperial Hotel • Palace ; Douglas's). 
Steamers to Leith and Lo_ndon ; and N. to Wick, 



84 ABERDEEN.— BALMORAL CASTLE. 

Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and "Lerwick (thfc- 
Shetlands). Aberdeen, "the Granite City," is a finely 
built town of 105,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the 
Dee, at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by four hand- 
some bridges. Union-St., 1 M. long, with its vista of 
grayish white granite, is much admired. The ancient 
E. and W. Chs. contain some curious monuments, 
and the tomb of Beattie the poet. See the statue of 
Prince Albert ; handsome Gothic Town and Comity 
Buildings; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with 
medallions of the Scottish monarchs ; and the hand- 
some Marischal College (founded 1593). The docks 
cover 34 acres and admit the largest ships. Aberdeen 
clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 M. JS\ lies 
Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient King's College 
(1494), famous for exquisite wood carving, in chapel ; 
and the Cathedral of St. Macliar. The Auld Brig o J 
Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Bon Juan, is -J 
M. N. The Deeside JEtty. runs to Ballater (43£ M. ; 
fares, 6s. 10d.*3s. 7-kL), whence coaches to Braemar 
(18 M. ; fares, 5s., 4s. ; to Balmoral, 2s. 6d., 2s.); and 
tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this 
way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmo- 
ral Castle, the favorite residence of the late Queen. 
It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of 
two blocks, connected by wings. The property was 
bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,000 acres 
of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest. 
Braemar (Invercauld Arms; Fife Arms) is in the 
midst of a wildly picturesque country. From this 
point one may push on to Grlen Tilt and Blair 
Athole, and come down through the Killiecrankie 
Pass to Perth. Travellers who do not wish to visit 
Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee tc Edinburgh 
by Burntisland. 



SCOTLAND. 85 

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford. 

Many persons will content themselves, after the trip 
through the Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip 
from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh. The direct 
routes between the two principal cities of Scotland are 
uninteresting. Time, li~2£ hrs. ; fares, by express 
train, 6s. 6d., 5s. Distance, 48 M. Stirling to 
Edinburgh, 5s. 6d., 3s. lid., 2s. 6d.J. 

Edinburgh (Balmoral, Royal, Carlton, OldWaver- 
ley (temperance)) Central, Douglas, Royal British; 
ry. hotels at the Waverley and Caledonian Stations; 
private hotels, Bedford and Orosvenor) is one of 
the most beautiful towns in Europe ; and history 
and legend, uniting their charms, have made it 
especially fascinating to the traveller. It has 
345,000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated 
in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the 
Firth of. Forth. A large, open valley divides it into 
the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of epitome of 
the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 years ; 
and the other a singularly handsome and well-built 
modern town. There is a striking resemblance be- 
tween Edinburgh and Athens ; and it was from this 
fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the 
"Modem Athens." A fire destroyed the town in 
1537; and the oldest date on any private house is 
1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, 
called Arthur s Seat (because King Arthur defeated 
the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives his 
name to the city, founded his "burgh" in the 7th 
century. For 400 years the city formed part of the 
Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the 11th century 
Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom of 
the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of 
the Stuarts. 



86 EDINBURGH. 

Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the Old 
Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the E. gar- 
dens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840-44), 
the niches of which are filled with figures of the 
great novelist's heroes and heroines. Beneath the 
central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A 
staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand 
bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and 
Prof. Wilson (fhs. North). The gardens are divided 
into two sections by the Mound, on which stand the 
beautiful classic buildings of the Royal Institution 
iincl the National Gallery. The former contains 
the National Museum of Antiquities and the Statue 
Gallery (free Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and 
Saturday, 10-4; 6d. Thursday and Friday). In the 
Museum, note John Knox's Pulpit from St. Giles's 
Church; the Solemn League and Covenant of 1638, 
.signed by Montrose; the Blue Ribbon, worn by 
Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter; the Tor- 
turing Maiden ; and many Celtic and Roman anti- 
quities. The School of Design in this building has 
many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily, 
10-4; 6d. fee on Thurs. and Fri.) is S„of the Royal 
Institution. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck, 
Veronese, Watteau, Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth, 
Landseer and Wilson. The annual exhibitions of 
the Royal Scottish Academy take place here from 
February to May. Flaxman's statue of Burns is 
here. See in W. Princes-St. Gardens statue of 
Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet. Nearly 
opposite the University Club is a statue of the 
famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the 'West 
churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey. 
Near the Caledonian Station is Castle Terrace, 
on which stands the Synod Hall of the IT. P. Church. 
Crossing the railway from the West Garden you 
reach the base of the Castle Bock, and may ascend 



SCOTLAND. 87 

by the Wellhouse Tower (a part cf the first town wall, 
erected in 1450) to the uppermost walk. 

The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 300 
ft. above the valley, accessible only from the E. side. 
This was an impregnable stronghold before the days of 
gunpowder. To-day It is an infantry barrack for 1,200 
men, and has an armory containing 30,000 stand of 
arms. The so-called Ha If -Moon Battery faces to the 
N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by 
High-St. and Castle Hiil. See the Stone Cross erected 
to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. 
You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge over a 
moat. See the State Prison, where many adherents of 
Vm Stuarts were con lined. On the r. is the Argyll 
Battery ; a little beyond, the Armory, the Prison, the 
Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily, 
11-3). Here are the Regalia, sometimes, called the 
Honors of Scotland. They consist of a crown (Robert 
Bruce's, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, 
sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to James IV.), 
treasurers rod of office, etc. Queen Mary's Room is a 
small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to 
James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription, 
with the Scottish arms. On the Bomb Battery stands 
Mons Meg, an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel- 
gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped together. 
Erom this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and en- 
virons. Here is Queen Margaret's Chapel, the oldest 
and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and 
named for Malcolm Canmore's Saxon queen. The 
castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward I., 
Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell ; and repulsed 
Prince Charles's army. 

High-St. was once one of the finest in Europe ; but 
its quaint old houses now compare but poorly with 



88 EDINBURGH, 

those in the New Town. Note : Cannon-ball (fired 
from the castle in 1746) sticking in the gable of the 
old mansion of the Duke of Gordon ; Ramsay Lane, on 
the 1., where lived Ramsay the poet ; the General As- 
sembly Hall of the Church of Scotland. It was along 
the W. Bow that Montrose and Argyll were conveyed 
in the executioner's cart to the Grassmarket, the place 
of public execution. On the 1., James's Court, where 
David Hume wrote part of his History of England, 
and where Boswell entertained Johnson in 1773, and 
Paoli. Burns lived in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell 
in Byre's Close. In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of 
Scotland; on the r. the County Hall, near the open 
space where stood the old Tolbooth, called The Heart 
of Midlothian. The Tolbooth was the House of 
Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the 
prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., whose 
tower is terminated by a huge imperial crown, visible 
from afar. The original ch. was built before 1350, 
and was the cathedral of Edinburgh. Knox minis- 
tered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant 
was signed. The Reformers cast out 40 images of 
saints, and divided the building by partition;;, so that 
three congregations might worship therein. James 
VI., when about to ascend the English throne, here 
took leave of the citizens. In the Crypt are the tombs 
of Montrose and the Regent Murray. S. of St. Giles 
is Parliament Square. See, in the pavement here, a 
stone inscribed "I. K. 1572," which marks the grave 
of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles 
II. On the S.j Parliament House, a modern Italian 
structure, now used as courts of justice. Parliament 
Hall, 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See 
statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by 
are the Advocates' 1 Library and the Signet Library. 



SCOTLAND. 89 

The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collection 
of MSS. See here the Mayence first edition of the 
Bible. On the ]N T . E. side of St. Giles's Ch. see the 
City Cross. Opposite is the Royal Exchange. Where 
High-St. is intersected by the N. and S. Bridges stands 
the Tron Church, named from a public tron, or 
weighing-machine. When the shopkeepers weighed 
falsely they were nailed up by the ears. Farther 
down is John Knox's House (open Wed", and Sat., 
10-4; 6d.). The interior is a labyrinth of small and 
low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription i 
" Lofe . God . aboue • al . and . yoor . nichtboor . as . 
yi . self.'' Here Knox lived, — 1559-72, — and here 
he died. Prom Knox's house to Holyrood, High-St., 
is called Canongate. On the L, Canongate Tolbooth, 
built in 1591. Back from the street, the Ch. of the- 
Canons, built in 1088. In the Cemetery are buried 
Adam Smith, Dugaid Stewart, and other celebrated 
Scots. On the 1., Qaeensberry House, an ancient ducal 
palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt ; now used as a 
house of refuge. 

Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by 
King David L, who is said to have been saved from 
the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this spot, by a 
luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Rood, which 
David intended to deposit there, was a fragment of the 
True Cross. The palace (fee, 6d. ; free on Sat.) was 
begun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in 
1514, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. The 
most interesting section is Queen Mary's Apartments, 
entered by a door on the N. side of the inner court. 
The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley. 
In the little boudoir Rizzio was assassinated while at 
supper with Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruth- 
ven, and others. The guides show some dark stains 



9Q EDINBURGH, 

on the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present 
palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The 
picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypothetical portraits 
of Scottish kings. The Chapel Royal is a beautiful 
but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, founded bf 
David. Charles I. was crowned here in 1G33. In the 
vaults are buried David II., James II., James V. and 
his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holy rood is 
the Queen's Park. Arthurs Seat, 822 ft. high, is 
behind Holyrood. A good road, the Queens Drive, 
runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- 
rood by crossing the Park, or by following the drive 
to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from that point, On 
the hill ar* the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel. See, 
near the park-keeper's lodge at St. Leonard's Hill, the 
cottage of " Jeannie Deans." 

The historic Colgate, built in 1500, is now one of 
the dirtiest lanes in the Old Town. It ends in the 
G-rassmarket, near the centre of which is the Corn 
^Exchange. At the head of the Cowgate stands the 
house in which Lord Brougham was born ; and in the 
ch.-yard of Greyfriars are the tombs of the historian 
Robertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men. 
Heriofs Hospital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle 
(built by Inige Jones, 1628-50), is worth a visit. The 
University (session Nov -April), at the S. end of S. 
Bridge, was founded in 1582 by James VI. It has 
one of the best medical schools in Europe. There 
are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,000 vols. In 
Drummond-St,, opposite the College, stood Darnley's 
house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the 
head of College Wynd stood the house in which Walter 
Scott was born. It was pulled down in.18'71. Be- 
hind the University is the Edinburgh Museum of Science 
and Art. At the N". end of George IV. Bridge is the 



SCOTLAND. 91 

J?ree Public Library erected mainly through the lib- 
erality of Mr. Andrew Carnegie. 

Crossing the Mound into the New Town, one finds 
the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old they 
are narrow and ugly. Go up Calton Hill, at the E'„ 
end of Princes-St. , and visit Nelson's Monument (fee, 
3d.); good view from the top. On this hill is the 
National Monument to the Scottish soldiers who fell 
in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, — an un- 
finished building, copied after the Parthenon at Ath- 
ens ; also, the Observatory ; and the Dugald- Stewart 
Monument, copied from the Choragic Monument of 
Lysicrates at Athens. Just beyond is Playf air's monu- 
ment. At the base of the hill is the Royal High School, 
an adaptation of the Temple of Theseus at Athens. To? 
the S. is Bums 's Monument, erected in 1830. At the- 
corner of the 1ST. Bridge, the Post- Office. In the Regis^ 
try Office, on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are auto- 
graph letters of Queen Mary, etc. See Waverley Bridge. 

Other Objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank; the- 
new Waverley R. Sta.; the bronze statues of Pitt and 
George IV., by Chantrey ; St. Andrew's Ch.; statue 
to Chalmers, the Scottish divine; the Scottish National 
Memorial, erected in 1878, bas-reliefs illustrative of 
the Prince Consort's career ; the Edinburgh Philo- 
sophical Institution in Queen-St. ; the stately Ujnscojjal' 
Cathedral of St. Mary, built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the- 
Dean Bridge, spanning the Water of Leith,106 ft. high;, 
the Dean Cemetery, where Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn,. 
Rutherford and Mur/'a}^ and Prof. Wilson are buried; 
the Fettes College ; t \e S. Cemetery, at the Grange, 
where Hugh Miller Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie 
are buried ; the Royal Bank Garden; the Warriston 
Cemetery, where Alexander Smith the poet is buried. 

Leith (60,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M. 
N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars ; trains 
every 1-2 hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft, 



«3 LilITH.-ROSLIN chapel. 

into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take ferry 
across to the other, and come back on it. Mary 
Queen of Scots had a brilliant reception on landing 
here from Calais in 1561. Huge shipbuilding yards, 
glass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in 
■corn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Dock 
covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was built by Cromwell. 
W. of Leith is Newhaven (Peacock- Inn, cele- 
brated for fish dinners, 2s. 6d.). Fishwives re- 
markable here for their costumes, and noted for 
their virtue. 

Excursions from Edinburgh. — To Grant on Pier, 
2 M., stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens 
(admission free). Good view of Edinburgh, Magni- 
ficent pier, built by the Duke of Buccleuch. At 
Oranton the English troops that invaded Scotland in 
1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to 
Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity, good bathing. — 
To Hawthornden and Roslin Chapel. Train to 
Hawthornden stat. ; fares, Is., 10d., 8d. This charm- 
ing mansion, "grafted on an old fortified Peel 
tower," was built by the poet Drummond, born in 
1585 ; and here Ben Johnson came to visit him, walk- 
ing all the way from London. Under the mansion 
are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were 
known. Cross the Esk and go along the romantic 
glen to Roslin (l£ M.), getting a fine view of the castle 
and chapel as you leave the ravine. Battle fought in 
1302 on the Moor near by. Roslin Chapel is the choir 
of an unfinished ch. 5 . founded in 1446. Fergusson 
thinks "the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the 
profusion of its decorations." The castle, on a mound 
"below, is a mer% ruin-, The Valley of the Esk is 
lovely. If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can 
pass by Morningside, and see the stone on which James 
I. fixed his standard be&ve he set out for Flodden 
Field. — Dalkeith Castle. ^^obattle Abbey, Dalhousie 



SCOTLAND. 93 

Castle, Borthwick Castle, Cricliton Castle, all on or near 
the Esk, are well worth visiting. 

All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbotsford, 
and Dryburgh. Take express train (Pullman car 
attached) to Melrose stat. (37 M. ; 1 hr. ; fares, 7s. 
5d., 5s. 7d., 3s. Id.). Hotels at Melrose: George; 
Abbey ; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was founded 
by David I. in 1126, and completed in 1146. The 
monks who dwelt there were among the first Cister- 
cians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Ed- 
ward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later under the patronage 
of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second 
Pointed, mingled with Elamboyant. The present struc- 
ture dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuck 
now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 
ft. ; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the Tran- 
septs, the Nave, entered by a wooden gate at the W, 
end, and the S. Aisle, are in best preservation. The 
Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84 
ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under 
the noted E. Window, lies Alexander II. ; and here the 
heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the 
wizard, Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary. 
Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the 
doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door 
(outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it 
a noble window. Above the E. window are figures, 
supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the 
fifth window is Sir David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight 
effects quite equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic descrip- 
tion. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to 
Abbotsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A 
one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (3 M.) costs 
6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6cL The walk is a pleasant 
one. Persons in haste can leave Edinburgh at 10. 3C 



94 ABFOTSFORiJ. — DRYBURGH ABBEY. 

A..M. ; reach Melrose in 1 hr. ; drive over to Abbots- 
ford, see it, and return, in 2 lirs. ; give ^ hr. to Mel- 
rose Abbey ; lunch at one of the hotels near by ; then 
take carriage to Dryburgh Abbey, see it, and return to 
Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, in 2k hrs.; after 
wliich they can take an evening train S. Abbotsford 
(admission, Is.) was long the home of the " Great 
Enchanter of the North." The author's study is the 
most interesting room. There the old writing-table, 
the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem 
to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them. 
The Library (20,000 vols.) contains a bust of Scott, 
by Chantrey, and many miniatures. The roof is of 
carved oak, designed from models taken from Roslin 
Chapel. The I) rawing -room, where Sir Walter died, 
and the little octagonal dressing-room contain many 
precious relics. The Armory has a fine collection of 
Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chiefswood 
Cottage, where the Lockharts dwelt. "Thomas the 
Rhymer" once lived in the neighborhood. 

In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rail 
from Melrose to Newtown St. Boswell's, and then \\ 
M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His 
tomb is in the beautiful St. Marys Aisle, and on either 
side are the tombs of his wife and eldest son. Lock- 
hart also lies there. The Abbey (admission Is) was 
founded in 1150 by Hugh de Moreville, and destroyed, 
like Melrose, by Edward I. The Chapter-House is still 
entire. On a hill near by is an effigy of Wallace, in 
red sandstone. 

You can now proceed S. Stop at Durham and 
York Edinburgh to London (9 hrs .), 57s. Cd., 44s. 9d., 
32s. 8d. ; Melrose to Durham, 19s. 4d., 14s. 10d., 8s. 
Hid.; Melrose to York, 37s. 2d., 20s. 8d., Us. 2±d. ; 
Edinburgh to York, 31s., 24s. Pullman sleeping-car, 8s. 



ENGLAND. 95 

ENGLAND. 
Newcastle, Durham, and York. 

jg-EWCASTLE-UPON-TYHE {Station Hotel; 
■ L ^ County) is a place of great industrial interest. 
It was Pons Aelii, the second stat. on the Roman wall. 
Up to the Conquest it was called Monhchester. New- 
castle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9| M. from its mouth. 
The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, ora- 
tory, king's chamber, and museum of Roman antiqui- 
ties. See St. Nicholas's Cathedral (14th cent.), with 
fine spire and rare old monuments ; St. Andrew's, very 
ancient ; the Library ; the Royal Arcade; and Stephen- 
son's High Level Bridge. Elswick, 2 M. out, is the 
seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's immense ordnance works. 
Tynemo uth has a beautiful ruined Priory. Newcastle 
is enterprising, but grimy ; ' ' the dimmest and smoki- 
est place I ever saw," says Hawthorne. Much iron 
ship-building on the river. Population with suburbs, 
176,000. Made in 1882 an Episcopal See. 

Durham (County Hotel; Three Tuns), 15 M. from 
Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the 
river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and 
Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror, 
and is the seat of an University. The Cathedral 
crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It 
was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch. 

"We paused upon the bridge^nd admired and wondered 
at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient 
towers rising out of the green shade, and looking as if they 
were basec- upon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener- 
able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw solovely and 



46 DURHAM. 

magnificent a scene, nor, being content with this, dc I wish 
to see a better." — Hawthorne. 

King's English Cathedrals speaks of the "view of 
the castle walls, and the towers of the enormous ct. 
rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the 
cliff;" and, indeed, there are few bits of English scen- 
ery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear 
("This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so 
sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers," says 
Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the midst of 
a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the 
Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral 
library) ; those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827 ; 
and of Ralph, Lord Nev : lle, who commanded at Ne- 
ville's Cross. See The G tlilee, a splendid chapel; the 
E. Transept, or Chapel of the Nine Altars ; the magnifi- 
cent Norman Nave, with is unrivalled vista ; the Chap- 
ter-House, built IISS-^/; the Te-Beum Window ; the 
Altar Screen, dating f/jm 1380; the Cloisters; the 
Abbey Gateway ; etc . Choral services twice daily. 
Good views of ths O/thedral from the Eramwellgate 
Bridge and the r\y. '.cat. King thinks that the cathe- 
drals at Lincoln -\p 1 Ely alone can be compared with 
this for majesty and beauty. Erom St. Giles's Ch.~ 
yard, from the Prior s Path, and from Nine Trees, are 
excellent views. The Castle (fee, Is.) was long the 
residence of the Bishcps of the Palatinate. See the 
Keep, now occupied by students; the beautiful Nor- 
man Gallery ; the Black Staircase; the Great Hall, with 
its many pictures ; the tapestry in Bishop T-unstall's 
Gallery ; and the very curious old Chapel. Pleasant 
walks abound. Excursions to Finchale Priory ^3| 
M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the 
Kepyer Woods ; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed 
to the Roman?, and the Moated Grange ; to Neville's 



ENGLAND. 97 

Cross, commemorating the capture of David IT. by 
Neville in 1346; to Chester-le-Street, 6 M., with a 
noble ch. built 1286, near which is Lumley Castle 
(Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and 
Bail-Room (time of Edward I.), and Lambton Castle 
(Earl of Durham). From Durham you may proceed 
directly to York (63 M.; fares, 8s. 10d., 7s. 5d., 5s. 
6d.). But we recommend you to go (fares, 7s. 2d., 
6s., 4s. 5d.) to 

Ripcm (Unicorn Hotel; Crown), a pretty city oil 
the river Ure. It has been an ecclesiastical site for 12 
centuries. The Cathedral was begun in 11£4, roughly 
used by the Scots in the Border wars, fell into ruin, 
and was rebuilt in the 17th century. It was restored 
by Sir G. Scott in 1862-72. The most striking point 
of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lofty clere- 
story, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some 
interesting old stained glass. The library is in the old 
Lady Chapel, above the chapter-house and vestry. The 
Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle-work. In 
the N. Choir Hall was formerly placed the Shrine of 
St. Wilfrid. Bipon retains many odd memorials of 
the past. In High- St. is St. Anne's Hospital, founded 
in Edward IV. 's reign. In Stamergate, chapel of 
Bo man date. See the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene 
for Lemrs, founded 1140. Fountains Abbey, 3 M. 
W., within the grounds of Studlqy Hoy at (Marquess of 
Kipon), was established in 1132. The ruins cover 
more than 2 acres ; and when the abbey was complete 
it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1. 
Erom the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a 
great cloister, and a beautiful vaulted gallery, 300 ft. 
long. The Chapter-House has singular aisles, with 
double row of columns. Here are many tombs of 
the abbots. See, also, the Refectory, the Vaulted 



98 HARROGATE.— YORK. 

Kitchen, the Frater House. Returning to Ripon, 
take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harro- 
gate {Prospect Hotel; Croivn; Prince of Wales), one 
of the most charming of English watering-places. 

York (Station Hotel, large and convenient; Black 
Swan; Harker's York), a city of 75,000 inh., 191 
M. from London (fares 27s. 6d., 21s. 3d, 15s. 8d.). 
York is said to have been founded 983 years b. c. 
In 150 a. d. it was a great Roman station, bearing 
the name Eboracum, with an imperial palace. Here 
the Emperor Severns died. Here also Constantine 
the Great was perhaps born, and his father Con- 
stantius, died, in 307. In the Saxon era York was 
noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by 
Paulinus ; and afterwards became the favorite capital 
of the Danes, whose chief was defeated by Harold in 
1066. 

The visitor should first see the City Walls, 2f M. 
around, interrupted here and there by the rivers. 
These walls were built chiefly in Edward III.'s time, 
but have been often restored since. During the siege 
by the Parliamentary forces they suffered very much. 
On the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the 
Roman wall. See Micklegate Bar, a noble archway of 
Norman date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and 
battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here 
the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly affixed. 
Close by, St. Mary's Nunnery. At Skeldergate, cross 
the Ouse by bridge. Beyond the ferry, the Bail Hill, 
on which William I. built his castle; Walmgate and 
Monkgate ; an interesting Norman Bar, with Decorated 
upper story ; and at the Thirsk Road one may descend 
close to the Cathedral, or 

York Minster, which Hawthorne called " the most 
wonderful work that ever came from the hands of 



ENGLAND. 99 

men." A wooden edifice was built here by Paulinus, 
and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 
627). The first Norman bishop erected a new church, 
which was added to within the next four centuries. 
In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was entirely 
replaced by the present one. The Minster was re- 
consecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 524^ 
ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; length of transepts, 
322 ft. ; height of central tower, 213 ft. The W. 
Front consists of a central facade, flanked by two 
towers (201 ft.). The front, with its 3 N. towers, is 
Decorated. The buttresses of the towers are very 
massive. Between them and the portal are niches 
filled with figures of saints. The W. Transept is 
noticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters Window, 
beloW which is an Early English arcade. The octa- 
gonal chapter-house, with superb 14th-century win- 
dows ("the richest I ever saw or imagined; with all 
their brilliancy they were soft as rose-leaves," said 
Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view 
of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. win- 
dow, and row of sculptured figures underneath the 
sill. The S. Transept is fine Early English; beauti- 
ful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual 
width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of 
the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Window, 
restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of archgeo- 
logists, who compare it for beauty and variety with 
the E. window at Carlisle. The quantity and ex- 
quisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old 
traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass 
miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the 
town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the 
monuments and brasses. Among wall monuments, 
note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafford 
(son of him who was beheaded), Archbishop Scrope 
(mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV.), and Arch- 



iOO YORK MINSTER. 

bishop Markham. Visitors should see the nave in the 
evening, when the body of the church is beautifully 
lighted. The Central Tower is remarkable for its mas- 
sive piers. The Lantern Tower, finished in the 15th cen- 
tury, has a vaulted roof, ISO ft. from the ground. The 
N. Transept has an exquisite series of lancet windows, 
filled with red glass. The chapter-house dates from 
the 14th century. " I never saw a piece of human 
architecture so beautiful," said Hawthorne. Doorway 
of trefoiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in 
which is a figure of the A r irgin and the Child. Notice 
the old oak door, covered 'with scrolled iron- work. The 
rich stone Roodscreen, separating the choir from the 
nave, is in 15 compartments, each containing a statue 
of a king of England down to Henry VI. The choir is 
of vast height and width, and Hawthorne said that its 
pillars and arches are so perfect that " their beauty 
throws a gleam around them." Its height is 102 ft. ; 
width, 99 ft. The stained glass in the clerestory is 
partly of the 14th century, partly later; as in the choir 
and in the presbytery. The great E. Window is the 
largest in England that retains its original glazing. 
It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a complete epitome 
of the Bible. The Crypt may be visited from either the 
N. or the S. aisle. See first 1 lie Presbytery and the 
Lady Chapel. The Vestry, Record Room, Treasury, 
and Library (containing many MSS), may be seen if 
desired. The Horn of Ulphus, laid on the altar by one 
of the Lords of Yorkshire as a sign that he gave certain 
lands to the Cimrch, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says 
of this cathedral : " It seems to have come down from 
above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness with 
it; and it is so light and aspiring, with all its vast 
columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly 
wonder if it should ascend back to heaven again by 
its mere spirituality." 



ENGLAND. „ 101 

Other Objects of Interest. — Within the grounds of 
the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (fee 
Is.), is St. Mary's Abbey. After the dissolution, part 
was changed into a royal palace. See ruins of St. 
Leonard's Hospital, founded by Athelstan, and rebuilt 
by Stephen ; and, beyond the Hospital, the Multangular 
Tower, Roman below and mediaeval above. Here are 
many stone coffins from the Roman cemetery. Near 
this is St. Olave's C/i., in the graveyard of which Etty 
the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum 
of Antiquities, with very interesting collections. The 
Museum of the Philosophical Society contains a valuable 
geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a 
massive edifice in which occurred many events in the 
early history of York. It was here that the massacre of 
the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant 
at the favors shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took 
place in the reign of Richard I. Over the gateway is 
a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch., in North- 
St., is of great age, and contains Roman masonry and 
rich stained glass. See Holy Trinity Ch., Kings Courts 
St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland, 
beheaded in 1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, m 
dedicated to the mother of Constantine. See also 
St. Lawrence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the 
Younger, Bishop Hill; and St. Michael's, Spurrier 
Gate. At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is 
still kept up. The principal public buildings are : The 
Mansion House; the Guildhall, with nave and aisles 
separated by oak pillars, aud rich stained windows ; 
Merchants' Hall, in Possgate ; and St. William? s Col- 
lege, founded in 1460 Hawthorne admired York's 
"old chs., gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time/' 
Excursions from York. — To Scarborough (Crown 



102 WHITBY.— HULL.— LEEDS. 

Hotel; Grand; Alexandra; Prince of Wales; Royal; 
Pavilion); time, 1^-2 hours; fare, 5s. 7cL, 4s. 8(1., 
3s. 5^d. This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a 
promontory are rains of an ancient Norman castle. 
The Spa, the Promenade (6cl.), the Aquarium, and 
Oliver's Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff 
Bridge. View from the Castle Hock very fine. Near 
the castle is the venerable Ch. of St. Mary. (Fares 
from London, 35s., 26s. lid., 19s. 6d.)— To Whitby 
{Royal Hotel; Crown; Angel), 56iM. ; fares, 7s. 6d., 
•6s. 3d., 4s. 8d. Whitby is a summer resort, with 
superb sea-views. Museum and library on the W. 
pier. Many shops for the sale of jet. Charming 
drives to Robin Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and 
along the Esk dales. Scott's Marmion has made 
this region classic. Capt. Cook's circumnavigating 
ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable 
ruins of Whitby Abbey, where Hilda ruled, 658-80, 
and Casdrnon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse. 
— To Beverley (Beverley Arms), dating from the 
8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study, 
with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work, 
Lady Chapel, high towered fronts. St. Mary's Ch. 
is splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures. 
•8 M. distant (fares from York, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5-Jd.) 
is Hull {Royal Hotel; Victoria; Imperial), a town of 
354,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to London 
and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Ch.; the Town 
Hall; the Wilier force Column (72 ft.); St. Mary's 
Ch.; the Trinity House, established 1369 ; the ancient 
High- St.; the Merchants' Exchange; and the Royal 
Institution. — To Leeds {Queen's Hotel; Metropole; 
Great Northern Station), chief town in Yorkshire, 
with 420, 000 inh. It is 32 M. from York (fares, 3s. 6d. , 
2s. lid., 2s. l|d.) Coal and iron abound on all sides. 



ENGLAND. 103 

Reclus calls Leeds "first in the world in the woollen 
business." The public buildings are magnificent. The 
Town Hall has a tower 225 ft. high, and 4 rich Cor- 
inthian facades. The Royal Exchange, Mixed-Cloth 
Hall, White-Cloth Hall (built in 1775), and the New 
Infirmary are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is 
Kirkstall Abbey, beautiful ruins of ch., cloisters, and 
chapter-house ; Temple JSfewsam, rich in paintings ; and 
Weefwood, noted for idyllic scenery. From Leeds it 
is 8 M. (time, -J- hr. ; fares, Is. 2d., Is., 9d.) to Brad- 
ford {Midland; Alexandra), world-famous for its 
woollens and worsted yarns. The town (280,000 inh.) 
is prettily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall, 
of mediaeval design, was erected in 1873, and has a 
campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be superior to 
those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model 
town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M. distant. The 
factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Ely. 
hence (7-8 M.) to Keighley Junction, whence a branch 
line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth (Black Hull Inn). 
The village has been much altered since the time of the 
Brontes. The parsonage, where lived from 1820 to 
1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote 
Shirley, Jane Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All 
the Bronte family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. 
There is a tablet to their memory in the ch. ; Char- 
lotte's signature may be seen on the register. Many 
Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland, 
country, hallowed by the manifestations of genius. 



rianchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc. 

We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and 
go thence to Manchester. 200 trains pass daily be- 
tween these two towns (42| M. ; fares, 7s., 5s." 3d., 



104 MANCHESTER. 

3s. 9d.). On the way you traverse the Morley turmei 
(2 M. long) ; and Huddersfield (Queen's Hotel; 
George'), a handsome manufacturing town of 81,000 
inhab. Near by is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the 
nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, .Robin 
Hood was bled to death by a nun, and Avhere the cele- 
brated outlaw's grave is shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M. 
long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 
cotton-mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely 
beautiful. 

Manchester (Qiiee?i , s; Midland; Grand; Victoria; 
Albion; Grosvenor ; lioyal j Waterloo) and Salford 
are connected by numerous bridges. The population 
numbers about 800,000; and the two towns cover 9 
square M. Keclus says : " Manchester was the Mancu- 
nium of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already 
known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by 
Flemish artisans after the religious wars. In our time 
it is the 'cotton metropolis.'" The Ship Canal, 35£ 
M. long, 26ft. deep, made at a cost of £15,000,000, 
has converted the town into a seaport and ensured 
the continuance of its prosperity. 

The Gothic Cathedral (1421) was restored in 1345-68. 
The celebrated New Free Trade Hall stands in Peter-St, 
near the scene of the "Peterloo Massacre." The large 
hall, in which Cobden and Bright have made many 
famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The New 
Town Hall, the Royal Exchange, the Corn Exchange, 
are imposing modern structures. In front of the lioyal 
Infirmary, in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke 
of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the 
chemist). Chetham College has a fine library, Owen's 
College, in Oxford-St., is an elegant structure. In the 
Grammar School De Quincey received his early edu- 
cation. See the Assize Courts, good example of Gothic 
architecture; the vast County Jail; the Museiwn of 



ENGLAND 105 

Natural History; the Albert Memorial ; the John 
Ryland's Library. 

Manchester is reached from London by the Midland 
Rly. (189 M.; 5 hrs. ; fares, 24s. 6d.. 20s., and 15s, 
5 id.), which traverses a delicious couatry. It is 41 
i\I. pares, 7s. 6d., 4s. 7d., 3s. 5d.) hence to Sheffield 
(Midland Hotel; Victoria; Angel; King's Head), the 
headquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of England 
{with suburbs, 284,500 inhab.). Sheffield is shrouded 
In smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its 
really fine situation on a chain of hills. St. Peter's 
Ch., with the Shrewsbury Chapel; the Manor House t 
restored by the Duke of Norfolk ; the Shrewsbury 
Hospital; the statute of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer; 
and the GutUrs Hall, lire the principal sights. From 
Sheffield it is 18 M. (fares, 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., Is. 6d.) to 
Doncaster (Angel; Reindeer; prices high race wk.), 
i clean and well-built town, of Roman origin, on the 
Don ; noted tor its fine Ch. of St. George, and tor the 
famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near by 
is the 2: rand old Conisborough Castle, described in 
Ivanhoe. It is 39 M. (fares, 5s. lid., 4s. 3d., 3s. l±d.) 
hence to the ancient cathedral-town of 

Lincoln (Great Northern Railway Hotel ; Sara- 
cen's Head ; Spread Ragle), which was at the time of 
the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities. 
Under the Roman domination it had been one of the 
best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen 
was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by Robert, 
Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin's party was 
overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s 
minority. The city was stormed by the Parliamentary 
army in 1644. The Cathedral stands on the summit 
of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around. 
It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Remigius of Ee- 
camp ; destroyed by an earthquake, about 1200 ; and 
rebuilt by Bishop Hugh of Avalon, 1220-60, and dedi- 



1 06 LINCOLN. — BOSTON. 

sated to the Virgin. The towers on the splendid W. 
front command a view down the vale of the Wilham, 
as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. 
front, 174 ft. ; height of central tower, 260 ft. Note 
the Norman font of Remigius; the Galilee Porch; the 
choir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting ; 
the Easter Sepulchre ; the delicately carved screens ; 
the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5| tons. See 
the Cloisters, on the N. side, and their Roman pave- 
ment. In the Library are many Roman i*itiquities. 
Monuments to Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and 
Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, and of many old 
bishops and deans. The greater part of the ch. is 
Early English ; but part of the W. front is Norman. 
The 13th century produced nothing finer than the rose- 
ynndow in the N. transept. In the S. transept there 
is also a fine rose- window. See the sculptured angels 
in the Presbytery, or Angel Choir, Near by is the 
Bishop's Palace, founded by Bp. Hugh, which had 
fallen into ruins but is now rebuilt ; the Castle, erected 
by William the Conqueror (now the county courts) ; 
the Newport, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments 
sf the Roman wall; John of Gaunt's Palace; the 
Guildhall ; and the fine old Stonebow gate. 

Boston {Peacock Hotel) is 1-1^ hrs. S. E. of Lin- 
coln, and has 15,000 inhab., many antiquities, and 
some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was 
called Botolplis Town from the saint who founded a 
monastery here, in 654. St. Botolplis Ch., built 1309, 
: ,s the largest British parish ch. without aisles, and is 
291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, with a splendid tower, 
800 ft. high, visible from afar over the sea and the fens, 
32 M. by rly. from Boston is Peterborough. 

Go next from Lincoln to Nottingham. Just outside 
of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All Saints. At 



ENGLAND. 107 

Newark {Clinton Arms; The Saracen's Heaa) is St 
Mary Magdalene, a splendid old ch., with fine brasses, 
stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining statue* 
of the Apostles ; also a venerable ruined Castle, built 
in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein 
died King John. Belvoir Cattle, the palace of the 
Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark was once fa- 
mous for its inns, and the Saracen's Head existed in 
the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes 
Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Midlothian 
to London. Just before reaching Nottingham, the 
train traverses the grounds of Colicick Hall, where 
Byron's "Mary Chaworth." lived. 

^Nottingham {Clarendon Hotel ; Flying Horse, ; 
Victoria Station: Portland; George) stands on a 
rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief 
place for the making of lace and hosiery in England 
(230,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrinth of nv- 
row and crooked streets. The Market-Place is an open 
area of 5| acres, with the Exchange at its E. end. See 
the N. and S. Parades ; Mortimer's Hole, a strange ex- 
cavation from the caslle to the river; Standard Hill, 
where King Charles I. unfurled for the first time the 
royal flag in 1642; the Rock Holes; the Park; and 
Swinton Hermitage. St. Marys Ch. is a grand old 
cruciform building. This Mas a Danish town, and 
William I. erected a castle here, which was often be- 
sieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red 
sandstone, w*as destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has 
been restored, and is occupied by the Midland Counties 
Art Museum. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, to 
Belvoir Castle. The country round about is filled with 
memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he 
inherited when it was almost in ruins, is 11 M. N W. 
Go by rail to Linby stat., 9| M., and walk (U MV> +o 



108 DERBY. 

the house, which is not usually shown. An Augus- 
tinian abbey was founded here by Henry II. in 1170, 
and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The grounds and 
forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully 
restored. The ruined ch., " a glorious remnant of the 
Gothic pile," and the cloister, with a fountain in its 
centre, are very fine; the poet's mean bedroom is kept 
as he left it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are 
shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain, 
Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so 
often mentioned in the poems. 

Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, 
with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin 
Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab* 
bey. 3 M. off is Annesley Old Hall, containing the 
" antique oratory " mentioned in Byron's " The Dream." 
Hueknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his 
only daughter are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Re- 
turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and 
take early train (15f M. : Is. 9d., Is. 6d.) to 

Derby {Midland Hotel, close to station; St. James; 
Royal), and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. lid,, 
Is. 9tk1). Derby was the Roman stat. Herventio, and 
here Richardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby 
spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments 
in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints 1 Ch. Derby is 
the entrance to that delightful region known as The 
Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to 
make detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver- 
pool and Manchester, by the Midland Line. The Peak 
is a picturesque district, containing "that beautiful 
scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for 
which the county is so pre-eminent. This scenic in- 
terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele- 
vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and 



ENGLAND. 109 

the bold and varied arrangement of the dales and doughs, 
which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Reach 
Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — ex- 
cept umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room) 
make a bargain with a driver, and go at once to Had- 
don Hall, 1| M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. • 2-3 persons, Is. 
each. Bargain for the same driver to take you both 
to Haddon and Chatsworth. If he waits, you must 
make special terms). Kaddon Hall, on a hill E. of 
the Wye, which is crossed by a picturesque bridge, is 
an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There lived 
Sir George Vernon (1545), whose profuse hospitality 
procured him the title of " King of the Peak ; " thence 
fair Dorothy Vernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir 
John Manners ; and there, in the State Bedchamber, 
are the famous tapestries illustrating JEsop's Eables, 
woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Visitors are shown 
the Chaplain's Room, the Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall, 
the Bining-Room, with the inscription, " Drede God 
and honor the Kyng," over the fireplace • the Brawing- 
Room, the State and Earl's Bedchambers,, and BeveriVs 
Tower. Small fee to servant. 

Chatsworth (3 M. from Rowsley ; 4 M. from Bake- 
well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is 
a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is 
called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall was 
used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of 
King and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 
1687 ; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ; 
the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservatory, Great 
Hall (67 X 20 ft.), Chapel, Grand Br aiding -Room, 
Libraries, Bining-Room (58 X 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal- 
lery (103 X 30 ft,), Orangery, Sketch Gallery (original 
drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Durer, Titian, ztc), 
State Apartments, Gallery of Baintings (Titian, Salvator 



110 MATLOCK BATH. — BAKE WELL. 

Rosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.), State Draiv- 
ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of 
Mary Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner 
there. The Arboretum, Conservatory, and Gardens 
(6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden 
comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ; 
next a copper willow-tree; then the vast Conservatory 
(276 X 123 ft.). See the Emperor Fountain, and go 
out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower 
and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Chatsworth 
is open daily (11-5 (Sat. 11-1). Queer old village of 
Edensor (Chatsworth Hotel, good) outside Park 
gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick 
Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882. 

Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Reacock Inn, 
an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or 
telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock 
Bath (New Bath Hotel) is in the romantic Matlock 
Dale, on the Derweut. Said Hawthorne: "I have 
never seen anywhere else such exquisite scenery." 
Rocky and foliage-clad crags rise 3u0 ft. above the 
river, and .there are many fine grottos in them. 
Masson hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view 
down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock 
to Buxton (St. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall), 1 
hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye 
valley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout. 12 
acres in public gardens. — Bakewell (Rutland Arms 
Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners 
monuments. The rural beauty of this section is not 
surpassed in England. Hardi&ick Hall and Bolsover 
Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, 
filled with art-treasures. The former may be reached 
from Clay-Cross stat., between Derby and Sheffield; 
the latter from Langwith. Burton - on - Trent 
is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest 
that you go from the Derbyshire district to 



ENGLAND 111 

Birmingham (Queen's Hotel, at New St. station; 
Plough & Harrow; Cobden). Fares from Manchester 
to Birmingham, 12s. 6d., 9s. 3d., 6s. llikl.; from 
Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3|d. Yon can leave Nottingham 
early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and 
Bnxton, and get to Birmingham at night. Birming- 
ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal 
thought, and a great manufacturing place (435,000 
inhab.). Camden said of old " Bremicham " (Brum- 
magem ?), that " it echoed with the noise of anvils, 
for there were a great many smiths." Almost 
everything that can be made of metal is fabricated 
at Birmingham. Visit the Elkington's Electro-plate 
Works ; Gillott's Steel Pen Works ; the Mint ; the 
gun-works ; the Town Hall, in which are held the 
renowned triennial musical festivals. New Corpora- 
tion Offices ; Free Library ; New Post Office ; Mar- 
ket Hall ; Exchange; Birmingham and Midland In- 
stitute; King Edward VI.' s Free Grammar School; 
General Hospital; St. Martin's Ch.; Aston Hall, in 
the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens 
(Is.; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice. 

Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- 
hampton (Star and Garter; Talbot), the metropo- 
lis of the Black Country, Which has manufacturing 
trade in tin and iron goods (85,000 inhab.). Things 
to see : St. Peter's Ch.; Queens-Square, with eques- 
trian statue of Prince Albert; Library ; Theatre; 
Orphan Asylum.-— To (29 M ) Stafford (Northwest- 
ern Hotel ; Swan), a well-built modern town. 
Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See 
old timber-houses, especially the Noah's Ark, in 
Crabbery -S t. ; St. Mary's and St. Chad's Chs.; the 
Bury Ping; Stafford Castle, J M. out. Leather 
is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster, fa- 
mous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. 
Is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through 



WORCESTER— COVENTRY. 

ch.-yard commands views of the town and river 
ur. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard 
Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester 
{Star Hotel; Crown), nearly in the centre of England, 
and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The 
Foregate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an 
elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long, 
78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady 
chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted 
in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is 
restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the 
choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John's, 
one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops 
Wulstan, Oswald and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur, 
son of Henry V., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters 
where the monks once resided are interesting. The 
handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a 
national school. Other public buildings : Episcopal 
Palace, close by the Severn; the Commandery; 
Edgar's Tower; the Guildhall, with royal statues; 
and the Hopmarhet, the most important in England. 

Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, 
Stratford=on=Avon. 

It is a relief to get out of the region of factories 
into the delightful quiet of old Coventry {Craven 
Arms; King's Head Hotel; Queen's Hotel). Distance 
from Birmingham, 18f M. ; fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is. 
7^d. Coventry was formerly the third city in the 
kingdom. Everyone knows the story of Lady Gro- 
diva. An effigy, called Peep ing Tom, is still exhibited 
at the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II. 's time 
the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and 
12 gates, some of which remain; but the greater 



ENGLAND. 113 

part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven- 
try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect, with 
narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber houses, 
and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The 
" three tall spires " of which Tennyson speaks are those 
of St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ Chs. St. Michael's, 
one of the finest Gothic structures in England, was 
founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303 ft. high, 

j was built 1373-95. The eh. was rebuilt in 1434, and 
is 400 ft. long. " Most magnificent, — so old, yet 
enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne found it. 
Trinity Ch. is close to St. Michael's, and was once 

I a fine specimen oi. Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention 
of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. 

I Christ Ch. was founded by the begging ^reyfriars. 

i The spire is the only remaining part of the old ch. ; 
St. John's Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, is a 
fine old building, with a massive tower. St. Marys, 
Hall is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael's. It 
originally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and 
was built about the middle of the 14th century. 
The Free School; Grey friars or Ford Hospital; 
the Workhouse, built out of the remains of the 
VFhitefriars Monastery (founded, in 1342) ' s and 
the remnants of the gates, are other objects of in- ' 
terest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, 
founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone- 
leigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before 
the Couquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it 
to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely 
one, the Avon 'bathing two sides of the verdant slopes 
on which the old monastic house was located. There 
is a fine park in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon 
by an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. 
The building if clothed with ivv, and its ponderou* 



114 KENILWORTH. 

oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apart- 
ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, 
Holbein, Teniers, etc. 

For those who have time, nothing can be more de- 
lightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry 
to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon ; 
going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely 
valleys, and beautiful fields, by Rugby, and thence 
either straight down to London, or to Peterboro', and 
Ely, making a detour to Cambridge and Oxford. For 
those who desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick and 
Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will 
be no other course than to take a carriage at Coventry, 
Leamington, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip 
is as follows: Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road 
shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to 
Kenilworth {King's Arms; Abbey; Castle), where 
chief attraction is Kenilworth Castle, standing on an 
eminence to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hol- 
low overgrown by underbrush, are the base and. side 
walls of the Gallery Tower, the S. B. end of the Tilt 
Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. 
Enter by a gate in the N. wall (trifling fee), and first 
arrive at Leicester 's Gatehouse, a square building of 
four stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal 
tower, and embattled. This building is not entered 
by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing 
on, you come directly in front of the main build- 
ings; and looking W. have the inner court in full 
view. The E. side of the square was composed 
of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and. Sir 
Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On 
the r. is Cazsar's Tower, a vast keep of immense 
strength, w T ith walls many feet thick. Beyond is the 
building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of 
Scott's novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers 



ENGLAND. 1 15 

^re all arciied with stone, and it is supposed that tbey 
served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the 
top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Swan 
Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer 
walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn 
Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Hail, built by 
John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone 
vaulting, carried, on parallel rows of pillars, the remains 
of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the 
windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. 
Beyond the Banquetmg-Hall are the White Hall, the 
Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber; and still 
S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of great 
height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas- 
tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Chamber- 
lain to Henry I. ; to pkss presently to the crown of 
Henry III. It Avas granted to Simon de Montfort, 
and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After 
Leicester's defeat and death, his eldest son sheltered 
himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in 
which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s 
time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward 
II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time ; and the 
visits of Elizabeth to Kenilwortli were in 1566, 1568, 
and 1575. The last was immortalized by Scott. 

From Kenilwortli by the highway to Warwick is 
about 5 M., by Leek Wootton, a village huih on a rocky 
eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is 
Blackiow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, 
is seeu the monument erected to mark the spot on 
which Piers Gaveston. Earl of Cornwall, was be- 
headed. \\ M. from Warwick, is Guifs Cliff, the 
handsome country-seat of Lord Percy, and a place of 
religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to 
the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this 



116 WARWICK. 

place to have finished his life of adventure, as a her. 
mit. Leland, in Henry VIII.'s time, calls this "the 
abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses." Cam- 
den, Dugclale, and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in 
its praise. Gu/s Cave and Gay's Well are shown. 

Warwick {Warwick Arms; Dale Temperance: 
these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to 
be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad- 
vancel is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire, 
on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town 
is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with 
strong walls, of which there are now but few rem- 
nants. The old gates are interesting ; and the Hospital, 
founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest 
specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at the 
W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, which pos- 
sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna- 
sneut. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage 
of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the 
town once passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- 
champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the 
chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi- 
cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos- 
pital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They 
have to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine 
blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and 
ragged staff, Lord Leicester's device. St. Mary 's is the 
principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the 
Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and 
Beauelwmp Chapel, which is considered the most splen- 
did in England, after that of Henry VII. 

Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in 
England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which 
overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk 
down to the stone bridge, from which there is a fine 



ENGLAND. 117 

view of the castle. The moonlight view is striking. 
Enter the castle by a huge gate, and walk up a winding 
way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, 
formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time 
of Henry IV. On the r. is Guy's Tower, 128 ft. high, 
30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on 
the 1. the venerable Casar's Tower, coeval with the 
Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy's 
Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is 
the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc- 
ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise 
above those of the first. After passing the double 
gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great 
castle directly in front of you. When the family is 
absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The 
rooms shown are the Great Hall, from which a view is 
obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 
ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. From this 
great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel 
Passage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles I. 
You pass through the Red Drawing -Room ; the Cedar 
Draiving-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers, 
and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next 
enter the Gilt Drawing-room, which contains many 
old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State 
Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in 
this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable 
museum • and the effect of the immense height, and 
the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, 
is curious. Here are pictures by Holbein, Rubens, 
Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Arm- 
ory Passage to a billiard-room, rich with portraits ; 
a Compass-Room, the Chapel, and the Library, in 
which is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of oak 
grown on the Kenilworth estate. In the Breakfast 



118 WARWICK CASTLE. 

Room is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, who 
resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser- 
vant who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d> 
or Is.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Caesar's Tower, nearly 
150ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it t 
■on the walls of which are scrawls made by prisoners. 
Guy's Tower, the top of which is reached by a flight 
of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, 
Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff, Leamington, and the neigh- 
borhood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of 
the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the 
Porter's Lodge are relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne 
calls this " one's very idea of an old castle." From 
Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Lea- 
mington through Warwick to Stratford. (From War- 
wick to Stratford, 13i M.) The most desirable route, 
however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past 
Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. 
This is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those 
who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among 
the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford 
through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House 
is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usually 
take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in th« 
midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, 
the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad« 
venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose* 
cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy 
immortal as Justice Shallow. From Charlcote yon 
pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, 
and, crossing the Avon Bridge, enter 

Stratford-on-Avon (Shakespeare; Golden Lion; 
lied Horse; Falcon), quiet old-fashioned place, with 
wide, well-kept streets and many handsome mansions. 
The Toivn Hall was dedicated to the memory of the 



ENGLAND. 1 ] 9 

poet. Here is a statue of Shakespeare presented by 
Garrick. On the pedestal see lines from Hamlet : 
iC Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his 
iike again." Very interesting is the Shakespeare 
Memorial Building and Theatre, which we advise you 
to visit first on entering the town. This memorial 
structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was 
the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should 
have a suitable monument in his native town. 

From the Memorial go to Holy Trinity Ch., a cruci- 
form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept 
and chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a 
lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard 
full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. 
If the doors are not open, the driver will go for the 
ieys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and 
some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake- 
speare *s in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain 
flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or- 
namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in r„ thought- 
ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a 
short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands, 
embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi- 
dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode 
Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a lineal ( 
descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte- 
rior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne 
were wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ; 
And, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway 
fias drawn the last breath of life. She also shows a 
visitors' book, which contains the names of a great num- 
ber of eminent Englishmen and Americans (small fee}. 
Return to Stratford, and in Henley-St. you will find the 
Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber 
building, ia *uiick the poet was born (1564), and where 



120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 

his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on 
the ground floor, one of which is a museum ; of the 
room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs; and 
smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat- 
ford portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received 
"pictures, but believed by many people to be more au- 
thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape 
destruction. The room in which the poet was born 
is in its original state, except that visitors of every 
nation and every rank have scribbled their names on 
the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, 
Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of 
Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles 
Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the 
property of the nation, having been purchased in 1847 
by public subscription. In the museum are early edi- 
tions of Shakespeare's plays; the deed made in 1596, 
showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, 
resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney 
to Shakespeare in 1593, requesting a loan of £30, the 
only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the 
poet ; Shakespeare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. 
upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- 
moved from the Grammar School ; the Shakespeare 
j'Ug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ; 
and a sword, which once belonged to Shakespeare. 
Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, 
by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen. 
Visitors register their names. The old visitors' books 
are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812, 
may be seen at Mrs. James's, near the Town Hall, in 
High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, 6d. 
House open daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come 
to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his 
prosperous latter years, and where he died (1616). It 



ENGLAND. 121 

is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is 
gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269 ; 
chancel rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of 
the adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar School, 
where Shakespeare was one of the pupils. Visit one 
or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and 
the Shakespeare; the former, where you can lunch 
before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unroman tic- 
looking house, rendered interesting by the genius of 
Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the 
room where he stayed; a chair, with his name en- 
graved on a brass plate ; the poker with which he 
poked the fire, etc. 

From Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leamington 
{Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with 
sulphuretted saline springs. The most important 
building is the Royal Pump Room and Baths. 

You may go directly from Warwick to London 
(fares, 15s.6d., lls.lOd., 8s. 6d. ; time, 3hrs. ; distance, 
97f M.). Oxford may be visited on the way; but we 
recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely, 
Cambridge, and Northampton ; then from Bedford to 
Oxford and London. You will pass through 

Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Eagle; Three Horse- 
shoes), Dickens's Mugby Junction, famous by its 
Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the cele- 
brated Dr. Arnold was head master; and the readers 
of Tom Broivn will perhaps wish to visit the school. 
Close by is Castle Mount, where a stronghold stood 
in the time of King Stephen. 1-J M. out is Bilton 
Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Ad- 
dison's favorite walk. After leaving Rugby you 
soon reach 

Peterborough {Great Northern; Grand; Angel; 
Bull) anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriving 
its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab- 
lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become 



122 PETERBOROUGH. 

Christianized. The Danes destroyed this abbey (8073, 
and it was restored iu 966. Then the town was 
named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The 
abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious 
bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king- 
dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new 
bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly 
during the civil wars ; and the cathedral itself was 
sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared 
Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay 
buried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman 
structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, 
Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are 
in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the 
cathedral is a line court, on the S. side of which a 
range of the old monastic structures is still erect. 
The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, has 
been called "the grandest portico in Europe." See 
the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the 
Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said: 
"Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of 
Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so 
quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful." Most of the 
beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral 
were destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end 
was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap. 
tist there are some exquisite figures by Elaxman. 
Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 
M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Eitzwilliam. 
9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved 
Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Fotheringhay, with 
a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plan- 
tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was 
put to death. Erom Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares, 
6s. 3d., 5s., 2s. 5|d.) to 



ENGLAND. 123 

Ely {Lamb Inn; Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract 
of high land, amid the fens; and here a monastery- 
was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was 
granted by Edgar, confirmed by Canute, Edward the 
Confessor and the Pope. The isle made an excellent 
defence against William the Conqueror. The cathe- 
dral was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark- 
able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee is a, 
beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb 
Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note the new 
oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings 
in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop Alcoclc's Chapel; 
Prior Crandene's Chapel; and the ancient Bishop's 
Palace. There is a Park S. of the Cathedral. The 
Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II., 
and is considered one of the most perfect buildings 
of its kind. Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic 
cathedral (but one) in Europe (537 ft J. The W. 
tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see 
King's Hand-Booh of English Cathedrals, which, is 
an excellent companion in these ancient towns. 
From Ely proceed to 

Cambridge {University Arms; Red Lion; Bull; 
Hoop; Sirdar; Blue Boar), 56 ? T . from London, 
and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over 
the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the 
foundation of the University; but the oldest college,. 
Peterhouse or St. Peter's, can only be referred to 1257* 
The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, 
University halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum. 

There are 17 colleges, inferior in architectural beauty 
to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite- 
as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIIL 
in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles; a splendid hall 
in the Tudor style; gardens; and an important library, 
with busts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue 



124 CAMBRIDGE. 

of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Milton's 
MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was 
Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton s Mulberry* 
Tree. The . quadrangle was rebuilt by Inigo Jones. 
Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build- 
ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius 
(pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged 
iu. 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re- 
built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus 
Christi (1351) contains curious portraits, especially 
those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and 
Foxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs. King's 
College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest 
building in the University. The chapel is the finest 
specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The 
roof, unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of 
exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained- 
glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The 
music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to 
the Sunday service. St. John's, founded by Mar. 
garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad- 
rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See 
also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose graduates founded New 
England); St. Catherine's (1475); Clare (1326); 
Downing (180/) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney Sussex 
(1596); Magdalene (1519) ; Trinity Hall (1347). 

The most striking part of Cambridge is "the Backs," 
where the college gardens slope down to the river, 
overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome 
bridges. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part 
of the great Fen Level. 

« Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa- 
mous turf resort, which became popular in the days of 
James I„ who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is 
Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble 



ENGLAND. 125 

ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate 
the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to 

Bedford (Swan; Embankment; George; Red Lion), 
once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, in 
Banyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and 
Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The 
Pilgrim's Progress, still exists. Bunyan's birthplace 
was Elstoio, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there his cot- 
tage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-ch. 
See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and hold- 
ing the Bible. This stands on St. Peters Green. 
Scenes from TJie Pilgrim's Progress on pedestal. The 
Puke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. The 
philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. 
distant. The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old 
castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From 
Bedford it is but a very short journey to 

Northampton {Angel Hotel ; George ; Plough), 
the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (70,000 
inhab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the 
the 12th and 14th centuries ; and on one occasion the 
University was transferred hither from Oxford. The 
Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol- 
ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of 
Thomas a Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting 
sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem- 
plar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; 
the Town Hall; the Shire Hall. Statue by Chantrey 
of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor's 
Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was de- 
feated by Warwick in 1460, AI thorp Park, seat of 
Earl Spencer, with famous library and picture-gallery, 
7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to' 

Oxford {Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res- 
taurant i Clarendon; Mitre and Roehuck, in the centrf 



126 OXFOKD. 

of the town, first-class ; King's Arms Hotel ; Golden 
Gross Hotel). The modern town contains the County 
Jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the Town 
Hall ; and the Martyrs' Memorial, a Gothic monu- 
ment in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, 
Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 
1555-6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the 
time of Alfred the Great, or even earlier. The origi- 
nal town was demolished by the Danes. The tradi- 
tions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest, 
after which the monasteries founded there obtained 
great fame for their learning. The town- plan is a 
cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal 
points. The central point is called Gorfax, a cor- 
ruption of Quatre voies. The curve of High-St., 
with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it 
one of the finest streets in Europe. 

Public buildings to be visited : The Schools; Ashmo- 
lean Museum, containing the Arundel Marbles. Bod- 
lean Library, with its interesting portraits ; Bad- 
cliff e Observatory ; Taylor Institution ; University 
Galleries (open daily, 12-4), containing important 
drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; Univer- 
sity Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park. 
The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily ? 
after 2 p. m.). See the beautiful Gh. of St. Mary. 
University College was founded, according to 
tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great , but it dates 
historically from 1280. Imposing high-towered gate- 
waj^s, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by 
John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of 
John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The build- 
ing has been restored, and new halls built, Merton 
(1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. 
Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter 
(1314), fine modern spire to the chapel (a copy of La 



ENGLAND. 127 

fkbinte Chapelle, at Paris. Very large buildings. 
Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (1326), where at 
one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, 
and Wilberforce. Queen's (1431), with hall de- 
signed by Wren. New College (1380), one of the 
finest architecturally j with beautiful cloisters ; fine 
chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John 
Wesley's college. All Souls' (1437), fine buildings 
in two quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with rere- 
dos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maud- 
ten), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, 
cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the Cher- 
ivell. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 p.m. 
during term). Brasenose (1512), Bishop Heber's 
college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged 
for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Car- 
dinal Wolsey (1525). Facade 400 ft. long. Attached 
to this foundation is the Cathedral of Christ Ch. 
(once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Priory). The great 
college tower contains Great Tom, which weighs 
17,000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense 
quadrangle. Through the new buildings pass into 
die beautiful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on 
the rivers Isis and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beau- 
tiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and 
chapel. St. John's (1555), magnificent late Gothic 
buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), fre- 
quented largely by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel, 
and library. Wadham (1613), beautiful gardens. 
Fine chapel and hall, with timber roof. Pembroke 
(1624), Samuel Johnson's college. Worcester 
(1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by 
subscription as a memorial to the Rev. John Keble, 
in 1870. 

Oxford to London by Great Western Rly., 63J H> 
by N". Western, 78 M. (lis., 8s. 4d., 5s. 3d.). 



128 LONDON. 



London. 



Hotels. — Albemarle, Avondale, Berkeley, Picca- 
dilly; Carlton, Pall Mall; Brown's and St. George's 
Hotel, Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens; 
Claridge's, Buckland's, Brook-St. ; Windsor, Vic- 
toria-St, ; Buckingham Palace Hotel; St. Ermin's^ 
Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PL ; Ford's, Man- 
chester-St. ; De Keyser's Royal, Blackf riars Bridge ; 
Savoy, Cecil, Thames Embankment ; Ilorley's, Tra- 
falgar Sq. ; Cur son. Mayfair; Waldorf, Aldwych; 
Hans Crescent Hotel ; South Kensington Hotel, 
Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner; Bailey's, Gloucester 
Rd.; Norris's, Russell Rd.; Hotel Russell. Russell 
Sq. ; Inns of Court, First Avenue, High Holborn; 
Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Rd. There are 
several good hotels for men only, among which may 
be mentioned Tavistock, Covent Garden; Cavendish, 
Morle's. Bru?iswick, Cox's, British. Jermyn St. 
A peculiar institution of London and some other 
English towns is the temperance hotel; of this class 
are Philip's Cockburn Hotel, Endsleigh Gardens ; 
West Central, Southampton Row ; Shirley's, Queen 
Sq. ; Kingsley, Hart St. ; Thackeray, Gt. Russell St. 
Each of the principal railway stations has a large and 
often very good hotel connected with it ; there are 
the Greai Eastern, Liverpool St. ; City Terminus 
Hotel, Cannon St.; Holborn Viaduct; Midland 
Grand, St. Pancras Station ; Great Western, Pad- 
dington Station; Great Central, Marylebone Station; 
Grosvenor, Victoria Station; Charing Cross; Great 
Northern, King's Cross ; Huston, Euston Square. In 
Albermarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James, 
and Clifford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and 
around Covent Garden and the Strand are many 
excellent houses. At the great houses, single rooms, 
4s. -15s. per day; attendance, Is. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 
6d.-3s. 6d. ; table d'hote dinner, without wine, 5s.; 




General Map of Loudon showing Main Street Pol 




: ublic UuiidJjiiiB, and Cliiei Railway Stations 



ENGLAND 129 

luncheon a la carte. In some hotels dinner is 7s. 6d. 
to 10s. 6d. In hotels of second order bedrooms cost 
2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, ls.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. : 
dinner, 3s. -4s. Beware of ordering dinner a la carte 
in the coffee-rooms : the bill becomes enormous. If 
you stay more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait 
on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are 
several excellent private boarding establishments 
patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished Lodg- 
ings without board are not expensive. Very good 
double bedrooms may be had for 15s. -21s. per week; 
breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per 
week; single bedrooms, 8s. -14s. per week. 

Restaurants. — London has been poor in these in 
comparison with Pains and other Continental cities, 
but is no longer so. We may mention especially 
the Trocadero, Piccadilly and. Criterion, in Picca- 
dilly Circus; Frascati's, Oxford St. ; Verry and Bur- 
lington, Regent St. ; Holbom, Horseshoe, Tottenham 
Court Rd.; Kettner's, Soho; Dieudonne, Ryder St.; 
Florence, Rupert St. ; Simpson's, Romano's, Gatii's, 
Tivoli Grand, Colonnade, Adelphi, in the Strand; 
Old Blue Post Tavern, Cook St., W. ; Prince's, Pic- 
cadilly. In the City are the Auction Mart, Token- 
house Yard ; London Tavern, Pencburch St. ; Pimm's, 
Poultry St. ; Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Within ; Old 
Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court; Sweeting, 
Cheapside. Many of the large hotels have good, but 
expensive, table d'hote dinners. 

The American Ambassador to the Court of St. 
James is Hon. Whitelaw Reid. The Consul-General 
of the U. S. in London is Mr. John L. Griffiths. 

A Round-Trip Omnibus Route. — From Trafal- 
gar Sq. take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Charing 
Cross, the Strand, Fleet St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, 
the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate, Whitechapel, Commer- 
cial Rd., to Burdett Rd. Get down here, and take 
tramway (yellow horse-car) through Victoria Park. 
Walk up the Victoria Park Rd.. and at the end of the 



130 LONDON 

road take the tram to City Rd., past Hackney and 
Old St. Rd. City Rd. crosses Old St. Rd. Take tram 
(blue) to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd. 
and Holloway Rd. From Holloway Rd. a car may 
be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's Cross, and 
from King's Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle, 
Camden Town. Walk to the Britannia, Camden 
Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to 
Bishop's Rd. through Park St., St. John's Wood Rd. , 
past Lords Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church St., 
Paddington Green. From where this omnibus stops 
another (yellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd., 
Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King 
William St. and London Bridge. From London 
Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and 
Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster, 
and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar Square. 

The Underground Railways are convenient. 
The Metropolitan and Metropolitan District Rys. 
run in a circle from Notting Hill Gate to Aldgate 
and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. The 
City and South London Electric Ry., the Waterloo 
and City Ry. and the Baherloo (Baker St., Water- 
loo) pass in tunnels beneath the Thames, the former 
to Clapham Common, the two latter to Waterloo 
Station. The Central London Ry., called popularly 
the '* Twopenny Tube," runs in nearly a straight line 
from the Bank of England to Shepherd's Bush. 
Tramways in outlying districts are numerous (fares 
2d. to 3d). 

Cab-fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Char- 
ing Cross is centre, fares are regulated thus : for any 
distance under 2 M., Is.; for every additional M. or 
fraction, 6d. Within central part of London the or- 
dinary course is rarely more than Is. Taximeter cabs 
charge 6d. for 1st M. or 12 min., 3d. for each succeed- 
ing £ M. or 6 min. Outside 4-M. circle, Is. per M. 
When engaged by hour, 4-wheel cabs, locally called 




Section of London, wil 




The " City " of London {The City 



wm " 

iH — 7< 




its are indicated by the dotted lines) 



ENGLAND 131 

growlers, mside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s.; for 
every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d per pk. ; 
hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. ; every additional 15 min. , 8d. 
Theatres, etc. —The following are the principal 
theatres: Aldivych, Strand; A potto, Shaftesbury Av.; 
Adelphi. Strand; Comedy, Panton St., Haymarket; 
Court, Sloane Sq. ; Covent Garden (opera); Criterion, 
Piccadilly Circus; Daly's, Leicester Sq. ; Drury Lane, 
Catherine St.; Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane; 
Garrick, Charing Cross Rd. ; The Hicks, Shaftes- 
bury Ave. ; Gaiety, Strand; Hippodrome; Haymar- 
ket; Lyric, Shaftesbury Ave.; His Majesty's, Hay- 
market; Lyceum; Neiv Royalty, Dean St., Shaftes- 
bury Ave.; New Theatre, St. Martin's Lane; The 
Playhouse; Prince of Wales', Coventry St. ; Savoy, 
Strand; Scala Theatre, Charlotte St. ; Shaftesbury, 
Shaftesbury Ave. ; St. James's, King St. ; Terry's, 
Strand; Imperial, Westminster; Vaudeville, Strand; 
Waldorf, Aklwych; Wyndham's, Charing Cross Rd. 
The E. End theatres, of which there are several, are 
worth a visit, to get an idea of how the lower classes 
take their amusement. Mnsic-halls abound. The best 
are: The Oxford, in Oxford St.; the Alhambra and 
the Empire, Leicester Sq. ; the Metropolitan, Edge- 
ware Rd. ; the Palace, Shaftesbury Ave. ; the Tivoli, 
Strand; and the Pavilion^ in Piccadilly Circus. The 
Aquarium, at Westminster, gives varied entertain- 
ments. Visitors in winter will find the best panto- 
mimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In South 
London is the Surrey Tlieutre, in Blackfriars Road, 
which was at first a circus and Jater, after being re- 
built, the home of the legitimate Drama. Promenade 
concerts are held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Gar- 
den; good concerts, with ballad singing, are plenty 
during the season at St. James's Hall and the Royal 



132 LONDON-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDBAL. 

Albert Sail. The latter has celebrated organ of 
10,000 pipes and 180 stops. 

Museums. — The British Museum, Great Russell 
St.; see p. 147. Bethnal Green Museum, Cambridge 
Rd. ; paintings, food products, British butterflies, etc. ; 
Wed. 6d., other days free. Geological, Jeremyn St.; 
10 till dusk; free on introduction by a member. 
Natural History, South Kensington; 10 till dusk; 
free. South Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John 
Soa^ie's, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields; antiquities; 10 till 
dusk, free on application. United Service, Whitehall 
Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, etc.; 
admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. Kensington; 
free. Architecture, Tufton St.; free; Antiquarian, 
Burlington House; free on application to secretary. 
Guildhall, King St. ; London antiquities; free. Bo- 
tanical, Regent's Park; free on order from one of the 
Fellows. Linniean, Burlington House; free on 
Member's order. Royal College of Surgeo?is, Lin- 
coln's Inn Fields; anatomical and pathological speci- 
mens. The Wallace Collection of paintings, furni- 
ture, ceramics, armor, etc., is in Hertford House, 
Manchester Square. Mme. Tussaud's Waxworks 
are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), with 
200 figures of celebrities. 

The City lies between Temple Bar (W) and Aid- 
gate (E), the Thames (S) and Smithfield and Fins- 
bury Circus (Ny, and has about 60,000 inhab. and 
the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies 
between the city and Chelsea, Oxford St. and the 
Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern 
streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of 
annexed villages, in the " Metropolitan District," 
which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of 
streets, and 550,000 buildings. 

St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675- 
1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, 
a Roman British eh., and King Ethelbert's ch., built 



ENGLAND. 133 

in 610 and destroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded 
to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliff e was cited for heresy 
(1337) ; and Tyndale's New Testament was burned 
(1537). St. Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500 X 
118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft. 
high ; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's 
and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is 
open from 10 a. m. to dark. Services at 8 and 10 A. 
M., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d.; Whisper- 
ing and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Library, 6d. ; Ball, Is. 
6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles. 
The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood 
carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, 
the philanthropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean 
Milman ; Bishop Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the 
historian ■ Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John 
Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the 
porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, Nei 
son, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; and the 
tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Tur« 
ner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to 
Library (10,000 vols.), Whispering Gallery, Stone 
Gallery, and l?a7Z. The St. Paul's Cross, which for- 
merly stood in the churchyard and was removed in 
1643, has been re-erected in more imposing style. It 
is a column, 52ft. high, surmounted with a statue, 
9ft. high, of St. Paul. 

Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of the 
Cathedral ; and S. are the Deanery, Choristers' School, 
and Herald's College. Down the Row is Warwick Lane, 
once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker. 
The General Post-Office and Telegraph Office are 
immense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Vedast's 
Ch., one of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy 
Christ's Hospital, founded by Edward VI. , on the 
site of a Grey friars' convent, has 1,200 blue- robed 
pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt 
were educated here. Newgate, a famous prison. 



134 NEWGATE. — GUILDHALL. 

where Jack Sheppard, Titus Oates, Wm. Penn, and 
Daniel Defoe were confined, is in the Old Bailey, 
reached from Ludgate Hill. 1ST. of Christ's is St. 
Bartholomew's Hospital, a great quadrangle 
founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into 
a hospital by Henry V11I. In the Great Hall 
are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Reynolds, 
etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and 
has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smith- 
field Market (3 1-2 acres under roof) occupies the 
ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and 
tournaments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for 
the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary andElizabeth. 
Here, also, Wat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were 
put to death. Newgate-St, leads to the noble Hol- 
born Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end 
of which is St. Sepulchres Ch. (John Rogers was 
its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John 
Smith. Near Smithrield is the picturesque Char- 
terhouse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a 
Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here 
were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, 
Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirlwall, 
Thackeray, and Havel ock. See the Elizabethan 
Great Chamber ; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in 
the Masters Lodge-; also, in adjacent Bunhill 
Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts ; 
and, in St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old 
St. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall, 
originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely de- 
stroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the muni- 
cipal offices, a Gothic Library, a museum (Ro- 
man antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, ar$ fine 
portraits. The Great Ball, 153 x 50 fet,., has 
a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the 



ENGLAND. 135 

wooden giants, Gog and Magog. Gresham Col- 
lege (1579) and Goldsmiths' Hall are close by. 

Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, 
from which run Bread- St. , where Milton was born, and 
Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on 
which stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakes- 
peare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne, 
etc. Bow Oh., built by Wren, rises over a Norman 
crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 
235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its 
bells is a " cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pil- 
lared court, is on the site of Thomas a Becket's 
birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armorers' (fine 
hall and rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Man- 
sion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egyp- 
tian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The 
costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads thence, by 
Apothecaries' Hall and The Times Office, to Black- 
friars Bridge (^M.). Opposite the Mansion House 
tsthe low, massive, and broad-based Bank of Eng- 
land, which keeps $75-100,000,000 in coin in its 
vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its 
rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile, 
and the Stock Exchange, are near by. Statues of 
Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange ; also 
Crosby Hall, built in 1466; and St. Helen's Ch., of 
the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was 
born. St. Michael's Ch. was built by Wren, and St. 
Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombard-St. is the 
Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the headquar- 
ters of colonial trade ; Mark Lane, the grain mar- 
ket. In St. Olane's Ch. is the tomb of Pepys ; and in 
Trinity Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the 
Duke of Suffolk's head. St. Swithin's Ch. has the 
famous London stone, a Roman milliarium, built 
into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour's Ch. is 
over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapsi 



136 THE TOWER, 

and Choir, and tombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Gow- 
er, and Shakespeare's brother. Beyond is the an- 
cient Guy's Hospital, in whose eh. Astley Cooper 
is buried. King- William -St. runs from the Bank, 
by St. Mary Woolnotli's Ch. and the site of Fal- 
staff's Boards Head Tavern, to London Bridge, 
928 ft. long, built in 1825-31, at a cost of $10,- 
000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 
100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Komans 
and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monu- 
ment, 202 ft. high, built -by Wren in 1671-77 to 
commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- 
stroyed $357,000,000 of property) is close by. Fine 
"view from its top (fee, 3d.). Thames-St. was Chau- 
cer's home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the Martyr, one 
of "Wren's Chs., has Miles' Coverdale's tomb. 
Farther E. is Billingsgate, the famous fish-market, 
The Custom House is 490 ft. long, on a quay be- 
side the Thames. 

The Tower is " historically the most interest* 
ing spot in England " (open daily, 10-4, 6d.; Mon. 
and Sat., free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer 
Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are 
passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises 
the famous White Tower, built by William the 
Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96 
X 116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted 
walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II. abdicated his 
throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was im- 
mured. The beautiful Norman Chapel of St. John 
is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting 
Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been 
King John of France, King David Bruce of Scot- 
land, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, Wil- 
liam Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Straf- 
ford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col- 



ENGLAND. 137 

Section of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Armoury, full 
of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques- 
trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German 
armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by 
princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, 
Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Queen Elizabeth's 
Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, the 
.block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the 
axe which struck oif the Earl of Essex's head. Ad- 
jacent is the 10 X 8 cell in which Sir Walter Baleigh 
was confined, 1G03-16. The Bloody Tower was that ia 
which the sons of Edward IV. were murdered ; Lord 
Dudley was imprisoned in the Beauchamp Tower ; Prin- 
cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower; Lady Jane Grey, in the 
Brick Tower. The Duke of Clarence was put to death 
in the Bowyer Tower; and Henry VI. in Wakefield Tower, 
In the Jewel House are the Crown Jewels, valued 
at $15,000,000: St. Edward's crown; Victoria's crown, 
with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and 
ruby (it cost 8560,000); several other crowns; the 
royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; the Ivoh-i- 
Noor diamond ; etc. In the cemetery attached to the 
ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vinculo, are the remains 
of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, 
Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North- 
umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims. 
On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren 
care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the 
Royal Mint. William Perm was born on Tower Hill ; 
and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherines and 
London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded 
warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost 
$20,000,000- Farther down are other vast docks, the 
largest in the world. N-. W. of the Tower are Beihnal 
Green Museum, and Victoria Bark. In the Swedish Ck 
at Shadwell, Swedenborg is buried. 



138 FLEET-STREET. — THE TEMPLE. 

Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on gi-anite piers, 
is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded 
in 1276, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine 
of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Bei? 
Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria 
Embankment runs along the N. bank of the Thames, 
from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1-| M., occu- 
pied by a road and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was 
done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned 
with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, 
and Brunei. Here also stands Cleopatra's Needle, the 
great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water- 
gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site 
of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King 
Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died. 

Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul's to the Strand, 
passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on the site 
of Fleet Prison,, made famous by Dickens ; the office of 
Punch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of 
Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov- 
elist; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776— 
84) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese 
Inn, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith ; 
Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas- 
tery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues, 
described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of 
Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, 1624-43 ; the Gothic Ck. 
of St. Duns fun in the West; Mitre Court, and its famous 
old inn; and the New Record Office (open 10-4), a stately 
Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. The 
Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184, 
and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313. 
In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have 
ever since occupied it. The buildings extend -from 
Fleet-St. fo the famous Temple Gardens, where, the 



ENGLAND. 138 

(Var of the Hoses broke out. The Middle Temple has 
a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with 
dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John- 
son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith 
lived in the Middle Temple ; and the latter is buried in 
the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12, 
1-4 daily), built in 1185-1240, which has quaint 
old Templars' monuments, rich stained windows, and 
polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite, 
across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law 
Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over 
$5,000,000. Farther N. is the famous Lincoln's Inn, 
the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint 
chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor 
dining-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here.. 
In Lincoln's Inn Fields is the Royal College of Sur- 
geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Sonne 
Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, antique 
gems, medieval and Renaissance curiosities, and 
paintings by Hogarth, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds. 
Gray's Inn, on the 1ST. side of Hoi born, has been a 
law school since 1371. Bacon was a member here. 
Reyond the monument on the site of Temple Bar 
(built in 1670 ; taken down 1878), Fleet- St. is con- 
tinued as the Strand, connecting the city and the 
W. End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the 
tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish war- 
riors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here ; Joe 
Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.* 
yard. Hard by is Clements Inn, sacred to law- 
yers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, 
Arundel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from 
the ] places of the great nobles formerly there- 
about-?, diverge to the Embankment. In the latter 
lived Congreve and Sale ; Peter the Great lived in 



140 WATERLOO BRIDGE-COVENT GARDEN 

Buckingham-St. Thomas a Becket was priest of the 
Ch. of St. Mary le Strand. Voltaire lived in Maiden 
Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build- 
ing, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a 
splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be 
seen (10-3 daily) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, 
Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. 
Waterloo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. 
Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a 
famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel 
Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is in 
Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, on the site of the 
Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy ; 
owned by John of Gaunt ; destroyed by Wat Tyler's 
mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In 
the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems ; and there 
King John of France died. To the N. is Covent 
Garden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market 
of London (visit before 7 a.m., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.), 
on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of 
Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived 
Sir Keiielm Digby, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir 
Godfrey Kneller, etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the 
painter Turner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones 
built St. Paul's Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler 
(" Hudibras "), Sir Peter Lely, " Peter Pindar," the 
dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin- 
ling Gibbons, fire buried. The Royal Italian Opera-Rouse 
is in Covent Garden ; and near it is the Floral Hall. 
At Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross 
erected near its site by Edward L, in 1201. There 
is an ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. at 
Charing Cross. "The full' tide of existence is at 
Charing Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane. 
Barrow, and Johnson lived hereabouts. 



ENGLAND. 141 

The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- 
umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson, 
and colossal lions designed by Landseer ; also 
statues of Gordon, Havelock, George IV, and Sir 
Charles Napier. On one side stood Northmnber- 
land House, the palace of the Percies, bought by 
the Board of Works for $2,500,000, and demolished 
in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Ho- 
tel. The Ch. of St. Martin in the Fields has a fine 
Grecian front ; and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculp- 
tor, Farquhar the dramatist, and Nell Gwyime. The 
magnificent National Gallery (free, open Mom, 
Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 a.m., till dark: Thurs. and 
Fri., 6d.; Sun., in summer) N. of Square, has a classic 
facade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures, 
and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. 
Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon 
it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the 
most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless 
engravings, are in this great collection. National 
Portrait Gal. adjoins the Nat. Gal., open same days. 

Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where 
Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died ; 
where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed 
to prison, and Charles I. to execution ; where Milton 
and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles 
II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of 
Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con- 
vent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great 
Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, designed by 
Inigo Jones, painted by Puibens, and now used as a 
royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a 
house near by, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicinity 
is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals; once the 
property of the Scottish kings, and later the home of 
Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones, Also Montague House, 



142 THE HOUSES OF PAELIAMENT. 

the palace of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall 
Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded with tro- 
phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, 
relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin, 
Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guarda, 
headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. See 
mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treas- 
ury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built 
in 1S68-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, $2,500,000), 
splendid pile of Italian buildings, contain the Home, 
Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices. 

The Houses of Parliament form an immense 
Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone 
(already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courts 
and 1,100 rooms, erected 1840-59. Strangers admitted 
between 10 and 3 on a member's order. Facade along 
Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and! 
shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid 
Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square ; the 
Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the Clock Tower, 
318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and 
Big Ben, a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is 
Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and 
covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak 
by Richard II. a splendid hall, 270 ft. long and 92 ft. 
high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri- 
bunals. Here Wallace, Stratford, Guy Fawkes, More, 
Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes 
of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish 
nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. 
were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings 
was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward 
III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and 
John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord 
Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been 



ENGLAND. 143 

held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt 
or Ch. of St. Maty Undercroft, built by King Stephen, 
and lately made resplendent as a chapel. St. Stephens 
Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry VIII. 
Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephen's Hall, with 
statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon- 
archs ; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with 
statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes 
from English history. The House of Commons, 75 X 
45 ft., is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- 
dows. The House of Lords, 97 X 45 ft., is a superb 
Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues of the 
Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos, 
the Lord Chancellor's woolsack and the thrones of the 
Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's 
Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers' Robing-Room, 
superb Victoria Gallery, and Queen's Robing-Room 
(richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of 
Richard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben 
Jonson died. The old Parliament House, ereeieu. 
on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and 
Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1634, contained 
the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of 
Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward 
the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of 
Pitt, Pox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan. 
Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of 
11,250,000, commands a fine view of Parliament House. 
St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. built in 1064 by 
Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. 
window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in- 
cluding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton's wife, 
Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har- 
ringtoD (author of Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Sir 



144 WESTMINSTER ABBEY 

Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar). 
Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity ; also 
Milton's house, lately occupied by Hazhtt, and fre- 
quented by Lamb and Haydon; Jeremy Bentham's 
house ; the quaint old Gray Coat School ; and the 
pretty houses of Queen Anne's (rate. 

Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site 
of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King 
Sebert in 616, for Benedictines: destroyed by Danes; 
and rebuilt by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor 
(1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. 
drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them, 
and Elizabeth scattered them for ever. All the 
sovereigns of England since Harold have been 
crowned here. It is 416 feet in length and 102 feet 
high, with W. towers 225 feet high. It is a splen- 
did Early-English building, immense, harmonious, 
solemn, richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's; 
open, except Sunday, 9 a.m. till dark. Services 
at 8, 10 and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d. ; 
Monday and Tuesday free.) It is world-renowned 
as England's Temple of Fame, crowded with monu- 
ments of kings, heroes and scholars. In the JSf. 
Transept are the monuments of Admirals Warren, 
Vernon, Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castle- 
reagh, Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle, 
Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous 
lords. In the abbey are monuments to Wilberforce, 
Stamford Raffles, Fowell Buxton, Isaac Newton, 
Charles Lyell, Pox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth, 
Keble, Congreve, Buckland, Outram, Major Andre, 
Dr. Watts, John Wesley, General Paoli, Kneiler, 
Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets' Corner 
contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel, 
Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Campbell, Sher- 
idan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirl- 
wall, Addison, Thackeray, Casaubon, Barrow, 



ENGLAND. 145 

Garrick, Prior, Gray, Milton, Spenser, Butler, J orison. 
Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South, Browning 
and Tennyson, bee chapels of St. Benedict, St. 
Edmond and St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry 
VII., built 1502-20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, 
with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak choir-stalls on 
each side (with the swords and banners of the Knights 
of the Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fan work 
tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James I., Mary 
Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George 
of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II., 
the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza- 
beth, Edward V., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the 
Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katherine of Valois, 
Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa of 
Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also, 
the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the 
sword and shield of Edward III. The Chapels of St. 
John, St. Erasmus, and the Abbot Is lip contain ancient 
tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and 
Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and 
Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. 
Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter-House, built 
1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282- 
1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and is near the Chapel 
of the Pyx, St. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the 
Triforium. Near by are the beautiful Cloisters. The 
world-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376-86. 
Here Henry IV. died ; and here the recent revision of 
the Bible was carried out. Westminster School, 
founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered near the 
column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cowle} r , Cowper, 
Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southey, 
Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here. 



146 ENGKLAND. 

St. Thomas's Hospital is a line of buildings 
| M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parliament 
House. Beyond, aud also on the Thames, is Lam- 
beth Palace, for 700 years the London house of 
the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful and 
interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton's lofty em- 
battled gateway. The Hail has a fine timber-roof, and 
library of 30,000 vols. Hon , Wed., Thurs., Fri., 
10-4). The Guard Chamber has portraits of many 
archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates 
are consecrated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lol- 
lards' 1 Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tor- 
tured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace 
of the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are 
beautiful. £ M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the In- 
sane {Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. George's 
Cathedral (Roman) and Spur g eon's Tabernacle. 

Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly | M. long, run- 
ning W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club 
houses, which are also found in St. James- St. 
Among these are the University, United Service, 
Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, Carlton, Army and 
Navy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall cross- 
es Waterloo Place, in which are the Crimean, Frank- 
lin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, 
and the York column (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent). 
In Pall Mall is Marlborough House, built by Wren, 
former residence of the Prince of Wales; near by 
St. James' s-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St. 
James's Palace is a brick building, designed by 
Holbein and built by Henry VIII. , the home of En- 
gland's kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria was 
married in its chapel, and levees were held in its 
state-chambers. Guard-mounting aud fine military 
music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House was the home 
of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House 



ST. JAMES'S PARK 147 

(Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of paint- 
ings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has 
art-collections, including several Kaphaels. St. 
James's Park, S. of the Palace, was created by 
Henry VIII. and Charles II. , and has a lake in its 
.centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellington Bar- 
racks on the S. , the Mall on the N. , and on the 
W., near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult's 
mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 a. m. 
daily. At the W. end is Buckingham Palace, 
bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buck- 
ingham, now the town-residence of the King. It 
.s a quadrangle, with Throne Koom, Grand Saloon, 
and other halls, and a Picture Gallery, containing 
hundreds of old paintings. In the rear are large 
gardens. 

Hegent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- 
don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and 
leads from Pall Mall to Oxford-St. 

Piccadilly, a Paris-like street, runs from Hay- 
market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological Museum 
(10-5, on member's introduction); St. James's 
CIi., built by Wren; the houses of the Eoyal, Geo- 
logical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical 
Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare 
paintings); London University, with statues; Dev- 
onshire House, famous in art; and other palaces 
of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of 
Piccadilly. In The Albany d w 4t Byron, Bulwer, 
Monk Lewis, and Macaulay. 

Oxford-St. H M. from HoTborn to Hyde Park, 
passes Bloomsbury, Kussell, Cavendish, Hanover 
and Bedford Sqs. , with their displays of statuary, 
and crosses Kegent-St. and New Bond-St. , famous 
for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily, 
free, from 10 a.m. till dusk) is near nev, r Oxford- 



148 ENGLAND. 

St. , and contains one of the grandest collections iu 
the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the 
Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and 
Koman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Baby- 
lon, Nineveh, and Mmroud; 6 rooms full of Egyp- 
tian antiquities, MSS., jewels, statues, etc. ; hun- 
dreds of Greek, Etruscan, and Koman bronzes', 
antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and 
mediaeval ages in England. The Reading Room (open 
only to students, apply in writing to librarian) is a 
circular hail in the centre of the quadrangle, with a 
dome of glass and iron ; the Library contains 1 ,000,- 
000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling 
Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc. 
Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays. 

Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- 
try in a densely populated region, is \\ M. 1ST. W. 
of Trafalgar Sq., and contains the famous Zoologi- 
cal Gardens, with numbers of birds and beasts, 
(open daily, 9 a. m. till dark, Is.; Mon., 6d. Best 
time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Botanical Gar- 
dens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord's Cricket 
Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Kensal-Green Cemetery, 
where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney 
Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mul- 
ready, Mathews the actor, Leech the cartoonist, 
Gibson the sculptor, Cardinal Wiseman, etc. 

Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry 
VIII. At the K E. gate is the Marble Arch; at the 
S.E., Hyde Park Corner, is another portal, opposite 
which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a 
statue of Wellington. Rotten Row runs thence 
to Kensington Gate (1| M.), and is a riding-course. 
The Drive, alongside, is filled with equipages. 
The Serpentine is an artificial pond, with pleasure- 
boats. Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all 



ENGLAND. 14& 

sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the 
W., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brick 
structure, built by William III., and the birth-place 
of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne 
and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther 
W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace built in 1607, 
and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn, 
Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and 
Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo- 
rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered 
with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under 
which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road 
is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert 
Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 people, 
and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The 
Natural History Museum faces Cromwell - Road; 
contains geological, mineralogical, botanical, and zoo- 
logical collections — formerly British Museum (open, 
10-5, Sun. 2-5). 

The South Kensington Museum (free, Mon., 
Tues., Sat., 10-10 ; 6d.,Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m. till 
dark; £>un., 2-5; restaurant and lavatories in building) 
is one of the richest in the world (| hr. from Charing 
Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re- 
ceived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000 
from Government. The first court is crowded with ar- 
chitectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court 
is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most 
famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous frescos, 
and contains many exquisite objects of art. The N. 
Court is devoted to Italian- Renaissance sculptures, al- 
tars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra-cotta 
work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instruments. 
The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental furniture, 
Persian tiles, carpets, and metal- work. The National 
Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest' 



150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES. 

iag, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, man? 
hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, Reynolds, 
Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc. ; water-colors in great 
variety ; and the Porster collection of autographs and 
MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval 
works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, 
and ivory. The Ke ramie Gallery has Palissy, Majolica, 
Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares, 
in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this 
building. 

Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia 
and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, 
inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted 
mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren. 

Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steamers 
ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West- 
minster, Charing Gross, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, etc. 
(fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, 
whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4d.), 
Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. 
Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, 
the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below 
Greenwich the river is dull. The journey 

Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul's on 
the r. ; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the 
Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge, 
you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the 
Adelphi Terrace ; the Obelisk, on the r.; and passing the 
bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs, 
you come to Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St. 
Thomas's Hospital and Lambeth Palace ; on the r., the 
Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Get 
Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is.) 



ENGLAND. 151 



Excursions in Southern England. 

Windsor {Castle Inn; White Hart), 22 M. from 
London, may be reached by G. W. or S. W. Railway 
(return fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 3d.). The superb state 
apartments are open Mon., Tues., Thurs., Fri., Sat., 
on presentation of tickets (adults Is., children 6d.); 
when the King is at home, they are not shown. (Buy 
Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) The cas- 
tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from 
afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence. 
Edward III. was born in Windsor ; and Geoffrey Chaucer, 
the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are 
at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George 
IV? s Gateway, in the S. front, opposite the Long 
Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Visitors' en- 
trance, Henry VIII.'s gateway. From the Round 
Tower (open 11-4) 12 counties may be seen. See 
Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dycks and Rubenses ; Chapel 
Royal St. George's (open 12-4, free), one of the finest 
Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir 
hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia 
of the Knights of the Garter ; Albert Chapel, formerly 
Wolsey's Chapel, built by Henry VII. and reopened in 
1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open 
Wed., Thurs., Fri., and Sat.). Fine view from the 
Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia 
Water {Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres 
in the Great Park. Eton College is £ M. from 
Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very 
handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the 
line library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. 
The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, 
tb<* scene of Gray's Elegy, and the burial-place of the 



152 HAMPTON COURT. — RICHMOND. 

poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray m 
Stoke Park. 

Hampton Court (Kings Arms; Mitre; Grey- 
hound), rly. in f lir. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has 
an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by 
Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and 
presented to Henry VIII., who coveted it. Here also 
was a favorite residence of both Charles I. and Crom- 
well. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. 
(State-apartments open daily, except Eri., 10-6, March 
— Oct.; on Sun., 2-6.) See the Presence Chamber. 
Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great 
Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a 
timber roof. Purchase the Stranger's Guide (6d.), 
which gives full accounts. 

Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western 
Rly. ; fares, Is. 9d., Is. Id., Is. 2d. ; time, \ hr.) 
contain the plants and flowers of all countries, (Buy 
hand-book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is 

Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for cuisine, 
wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a 
palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Eine view from 
Richmond Bill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the 
Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and 
Edmund Kean are buried in the eh. The King, when 
Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the Wliite 
Lodge. Park stocked with deer. The footpaths on 
either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham 
see Orleans House, the former residence of Louis Phi- 
lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried ; and Strawberry 
Rill, Horace Walpole's villa. 

The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham, 
was erected 1853-4, at a cost of $7,500,000. # Do not 
fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every 
day except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.). 3s., 2s. 3d., 



ENGLAND. 153 

Is. Pd. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria, 
Kensington, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The 
Aquanuin, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural 
Courts, the Picture Gallery, are worth inspection. 
Gardens Vbry iine; fireworks on summer evenings. 
Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, Id., 3d., 
Is.). The central hall is 1,608 ft. long, crossed by 
transepts. 

The Alexandra Pa!aw and F?.r& are 6 M. N. of 
London; £ hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It 
is rectangular, with corner towers, covei» 7| acres ; 
and the grounds cover 480 acres. Cee mu?ic hall 
(seating 12,000), with large organ. 

Ely. from Alexandra to Highgate (2?L), in whose 
picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge, 
Lord Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk 
to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy highland 
park, once famous for its highwaymen, and aosY 
visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hamp- 
stead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie anc 
Constable, the painter, are buried. 

Dulwich, -J- hr. by rly. from Victoria station (open 
daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stanv 
islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gift College 
Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Rubens, 
Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs. 
Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

Greenwich Hospital (6M. from Charing Crosr-; 
fares, Is., 9d., 6d. ; time 4- h. Or by steamer in 1 hr. 
from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), formerly for 
disabled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palace 
where Henry VIII. was born, where he married AnyKs 
Boleyn, and where Edward VI. died. Now occupied 
by the Royal Naval College. The Painted Hall i& 
open daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museun 
of Naval Architecture and the Chapel are open daily, 
except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark. 



154 ST. ALBANS — PUTNEY.- MARGATE. 

Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old 
elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little 
hill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1675. 

Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11£ M. (| hr.) from Lon- 
don. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence 
grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second • 
leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571). 
In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert 
Peel, Sheridan, Palmerston, and others are carved 
on the panels. See the Chapel and the School 
Library. 

St. Albans, 21 M. out (i - 1 hr.), has a noble Nor- 
man Abbey Ch., founded by Off a II., King of Mercia, 
in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877. 
It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence 
fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr 
of England (a. d. 324); and quaint old chantries 
and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in 
the Wars of the Roses. In St. MichaeVs Ch. Bacon 
is buried. See Roman walls, Gatehouse, and Clock 
Tower. 

Putney (Star and Carter) is quickly reached by 
steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and Pitt died 
here. At ChisivicJc Fox and Canning died, and Ho- 
garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a 
fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London. 
Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is Wim- 
bledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126£ M. 
from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. lOd.) has many 
quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a 
splendid JSTorman cathedral (founded in 1096). Col- 
chester and Ipswich, with their fine relics of mediae- 
valism, may be visited on the way to Harwich. 

Margate (C liftonville Hotel; Wliite Hart; York), 
72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum- 
mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. John's, 
Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate, 4J- M. S., is rather 



ENGLAND. 155 

more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing 
good. Fine pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne 
{Burlington Hotel; Anchor; Albion), 65 M. from 
London (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s.), is a favorite 
watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea. 

Hastings {Queen's, very large; Albion; Grand; 
Marine) is 76 M. from London (return fares, 25s., 20s.) 
"St. Leonard's-on-Sea," the Belgravia of Hastings {Al- 
exandra; Royal Victoria; Royal Saxon) is the prettiest 
watering-place in Sussex. Pine beach, and a pleasant 
esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the 
sea for 2 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of 
the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. 
long). Pavilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading- 
rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle 
Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At 
Battle {Railway Hotel; George), battle of Hastings 
was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are 
open Tuesday, 12-4. 

Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach 
(tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the White Horse 
Cellar, in Piccadilly, to Old Ship Hotel, Brighton. 
Bly.,l;ihr. ; return fares, 17s. 6d., 12s. 6d. Principal 
hotels on sea-front : Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, 
Royal, Crescent, Albion, Old Ship, MarkwelVs, 
Queen's, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses. 
Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is 
the fine sea-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton 
Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On 
the E. part of the Promenade was the Chain Pier, 
now destroyed. The W. Pier is opposite Regency- 
Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pavilion, 
begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned 
by the town, and. used for public balls, etc. Library 
and Picture Gallery here. Near are South Downs, 
55 M. in length, with a breadth of A.\ M. Tun- 
bridge Wells((7a£t;er/2/; EarVs Court; Grand; Spa) As 



156 SOUTHAMPTON.— WINCHESTER. 

a popular inland watering-place, with chalybeate 
springs. Bayham Abbey ruins near by. A pleasant 
excursion may be made along the South Coast from 
Brighton to Portsmouth {George Hotel; Bedford; 
Sussex), very important naval station. See the 
Dockyards (open 10-12, 1-3) ; order from Admiralty 
obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the 
Victory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died. 
Southsea {Queen's; Esplanade) is a fashionable 
watering-place near by. See the Common, the Bier 9 the 
Esplanade. From Portsmouth passengers may em* 
bark for the Isle of Wight. Portsmouth is 72 miles 
from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. 10d., 6s. 2d.). 

Southampton {S.-Western; Radley's; Dolphin; 
Royal), an important steamship station, 78£ M. from 
London (fares. 15s. 6d. 5 lis., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the 
Channel Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, 
America and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King 
John's Palace, one of the oldest houses in England* 
Excursion to lovely Netley Abbey, 3 M. (open Mon., 
Tues., Wed., Fri., and Sat.). You may next go to 
Salisbury {White Hart Hotel; Red Lion; Three 
Swans; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral, 
among the very first in England. It was founded ill 
1220, and was the first great English church in the 
Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in Eng- 
land (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter- House, and Nave 
very noticeable. Sculptures in Chapter-House from 
Old Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert 
in the market-place. See Blackmore Museum. Ex- 
cursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a 
Bruidic sanctuary; Wilton House (3 M.), with fine 
paintings; and Longford Castle. 

Winchester {George Hotel; Royal; Black Swan) 
is one ot the great historical cities of England. The 
Cathedral (1079-1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is 
the principal attraction. Architecture of Nave very 



ENGLAND 157 

curious. See Mural Monuments, Font and Chan- 
try. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was 
married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and 
make excursion to Hospital of St. Cross; admission 
6d. Fares to London, 66£ M., 13s. 10d., 9s. 9d., 
5s. 6d. 

The Isle of Wight may be reached from South- 
ampton by steamers to Cowes (in f hr.), or to Ryde. 
Trains run between Ryde and Ventnor, with branch 
to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isle 
is 22£ M, long and 14 M. broad. Ventnor and the 
Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer 
secure rooms in advance. Ryde {Royal Pier; Es- 
planade; Marine) has fine pier, school of art, museum. 
It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. 
On the route is Sandown (Sandown House; Ocean; 
York), fashionable resort. Sands and bathing 
good. Shanklin (Daish's Hotel; Holliers) is a 
picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a ro- 
mantic ravine. Bonchurch, 11 M. from Ryde, is 
very beautiful ; John Sterling is buried here. Ventnor 
{Royal; Marine; Queen's; Esplanade ; Crab and 
Lobster) is much frequented. Fares from London 
to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., 15s. Id., lis. Return tickets 
(good for 8 days), 35s. 9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near 
by are Norris Castle and Osborne House, presented 
by the King to the nation for a convalescent home. 
Newport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand 
historic ruin. 

Bath {Grand Pump Room; York; Empire; Pult- 
eney) has most sumptuously appointed warm baths in 
Europe. It is a city of 52,000 inh., on the Avon, and 
once famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene 
of Miss Austen's novels. See the stately Abbey Ch. 
(1499); Beckford"s Tower and tomb; the Guildhall; 
and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to 
Prior Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Down, and 
ruins of Hinton Abbey. From Bath it is 114- M. to 



158 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. —WELLS. 

Bristol {Royal Hotel; Grand; George), the capital of 
the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on 
the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the 
river's mouth. See St. Mary JRedcliffe Ch., very 
lovely ; the Cathedral (1140), with tombs of Bishop 
Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter- 
house ; College Gate; the Mayor's Chapel (1220); Bris- 
tol Museum; Clifton, a beautiful suburb; the Suspen- 
sion Chain Bridge (get the views); Nightingale Val- 
ley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise 
Castle; and George Muller's Orphan Asylum (2050 
children) at Ashley Station. 

From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Channel to 
Cardiff (Royal Hotel ; Park; Angel), a very important 
Welsh port. See Bute Docks; the Castle; and Sophia 
Park. Excursions to Caerphilly Castle; Llandajf 
(witli grand old Cathedral); Llanwit; and St. Donafs. 
Fro in Cardiff you can make an excursion through S. 
Wales, and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiff 
to Loudon (170 j M.), 35s. 6d., 25s. ; from Bristol to 
London (11S| M.), 26s. Id., ISs. 3d. 

Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts of 
England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 
4-5 hrs. (distance, 17'3-iM,; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3id.). 
Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by "Wells 
(Swan Hotel ; Star; Mitre), which is a perfect eccle- 
siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an em- 
battled Deanery, and a quaint Vicar s Close. The 
venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in 
every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See 
local guides.) Glastonbury (George Hotel; Red 
Lion) has a ruined Abbey, one of the earliest centres 
o% Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried 
here. The George Bin was a hostelry for pilgrims in 
Edward IV. 's time. This is the ancient Isle of Avalon. 
Get Williamson's Guide, Is, See St. -John's and St. 



ENGLAND 159 

Benedict's Chs. Exeter {Rougemont; Clarence; New 
London; Half-Moon) has grand Cathedral, built 1107- 
1203, with interesting chapels, Minstrels' Gallery choir, 
close, and far-viewing tower; the Castle, Norman 
ruins; the Elizabethan Guildhall; Albert Museum. 
Plymouth {Duke of Cornwall; Chubb' s; Royal) is rich 
fn objects of interest. Seethe Hoe, St. Andrew's Ch., 
the JS/ew Guildhall, Athenceum, Raglan Barracks, the 
Devonport Column. The Eddystone Lighthouse is 
14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer. x Tor- 
quay {Imperial; Royal; Belgrave), is a famous water- 
ing-glace. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange 
landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch, , and the Museum. 
Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.), 
40s. 2d. , 28s. 5d. , 16s. 5£d. Get guides of Devon Coast 
and Cornwall. Penzance {Queen's Hotel) is 328 M. 
from London (fares, 63s. 6d., 44s. 6d. 8 26s. 6£d.). 



Routes to the Oontinem 

Quickest Routes. — Via Dover and Calais : 22 M. 
across Channel. To Paris, 283 M. (fares, £3, £2 5s.). 
Day service : leave London 8- A. m.; arrive at Paris 
4.30 p. m. Night service : leave London 8.05 p. m.: 
reach Paris 6 A. m. — Via Folkestone and Boulogne, 
day tidal service : London to Paris, 255 M. ; Channel 
passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s.; time, 
8£ hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via 
Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class 
21s.). Return tickets, express route, via Dover and 
Calais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.; 
by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South 
Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and 
where he and his son Louis are buried ; and by Chat- 
ham and Dover, you pass Hochester, which has an 
antique Norman Cathedral, with interesting chapels 



160 ROCHESTER— CANTERBURY.— DOVER. 

and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with 
beautiful environs, including Dickens's old home, 
Gad's Hill. Just beyond is Chatham, with import- 
ant dockyards. 

Canterbury {Fountain, County, Fleur-de-Lys). 
The ancient Mercery Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, 
built 1070-1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, 
monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful and 
lofty central tower. See Si. Augustine's College for 
missionaries, in the ruins of the ancient abbey. Thomas a 
Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince 
is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion Hotel; 
Grand; Metropole) the train stops near the steamers. 
Dover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; Burling- 
ton) is worth half a day's stay. The Castle was 
nearly destroyed by fire in 1897. The Piers and 
Shakespeare's Cliff {v. King Lear) deserve attention. 

Routes Longer and Less Expensive. — Via 
Newhaven and Dieppe (day and night boats in summer, 
tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s., 
21s., 17s. Time, 12-13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M. 
(5|— 7 hrs.). — Via Southampton and Havre: Mon., 
Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 21s.). Boats leave South- 
ampton at 11.15 p.m. Channel and river passage tc 
Havre, 8^-9 hrs.— From London Bridge, across the 
Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, for 
those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s. 
5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (1 hrs.).— 
From London, via Harwich, to Rotterdam or Antwerp. 
Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 P. m. ; reach 
Rotterdam 9 a. m. Antwerp boat leaves at same 
time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. London to Ant- 
werp or Rotterdam, 26s., 21s., 15s. Returns, 40s., 
31s. 6d., 24s. Daily service. — From London, via 
Queensborvug7i-, to Flushing daily. 



HORTHERN FRANCE. 161 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 

*TPHE Ports of Entry in France at which you 
A may arrive from England are described below. 

Calais {Hotel Terminus ; Londres ; Sauvage) may 
be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560); the Fortes 
Roy ale, du Havre, and de la Mer ; the old bastion called 
Le Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais 
from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. 
Mary Tudor said the name Calais would be found writ- 
ten on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, with a pic- 
ture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place 
d? Amies ; the old Guet Toioer ; and the Hotel de Guise 
. (Tudor style), built by Edward III. and his successors, 
are the principal sights. The Hotel Dessin is mentioned in 
Sterne's Sentimental Journey. Good sea-bathing in sum- 
mer. Erom Calais you may go, via Li'le, to Brussels. 
Boulogne (Hotel des Bains ; De la Marine ; Men- 
rice; Continental; de Paris et de Boulogne; Cristol 
et Bristol; Louvre) is picturesque town on the Liane, 
where it enters the Channel. Fashionable summer re- 
sort. Has many English residents. The Quais; the 
Pier; the old fishers' town; the ancient Porte des 
Dunes, with a statue dated 1231 ; the clumsy Cathedral 
of Notre Dame ; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na- 
poleon was confined in 1840 ; the Hotel de Ville ; and 
the great Sea-Bathing Establishment, merit notice. 
Le Sage, author of Gil Bias, and Godfrey de Bouillon 
were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande 
Armee, built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I. assemb^d 
an immense army and fleet for invading England 

Dieppe (Royal, Grand, Etrangers, de Paris, Com- 



162 HAYRE. 

mi/ce) 1$ a summer resort of the fashionable world. 
See the Casino, on the beach ; the great Castle (1433); 
the ancient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fisher- 
men ; the piers : and the Statue of Buquesne. The 
bathing is fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when 
the tide is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques, 
4 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe. 

Havre (Hotel FrascaU ; Be Bordeaux; Aigle 
xTOr; Be Normandie; B Angleterre), once known 
as Havre de Grace, from a chapel founded by 
Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important sea- 
ports in Europe. About 100,000 inhab. Immense 
American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The 
Jetee du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill 
of Ste. Adresse the outlook is charming. The prin- 
cipal things to see are : The Ch. of Notre Dame (1575); 
the Hotel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand 
Treatre ; the Customs Barracks; and the Museum (open 
Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 4). Bronze 
statues (by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and 
Casimir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. The Jardin 
Publique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest street. 
Steamers weekly to New York. (See Chapter on 
Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the 
coast (I hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer 
{Hotel des Roches Noires, with . bathing ; Be Paris; 
d' Angleterre; des Bains), with fine Casino (admission 
2 fr.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas 
here and at Deauville. Aristocratic resort in Aug. and 
Sept. Near Trou ville is a chapel in which William the 
Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer 
England' 1 hr. by rail from Trouville is Honfieur. 
Etretat, ifiuch frequented by painters, and Fecamp, a 
great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis- 
ited from Havre. Eares from Havre to Paris, 28 fr. 
10 c, 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 183 

Kouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow 
(fares, 5 fr., 4 fr.). 

Kouen {Hotel d'Angleterre; de France; d'Alhion; 
De la Poste; Paris; Lisieux) can be visited on the way 
to Paris from Havre or Dieppe: the commercial rival 
of Havre, a port of much importance; historically and 
architecturally one of the most attractive places in 
France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great 
cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inhab.) The 
Cathedral of Notre Dame is a magnificent Gothic edi- 
fice, built 1207-80. The central portal on the W. 
was erected by Cardinal d'Amboise, the favorite of 
Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in ilorid 
style. The Batter Toioer {Tour de Beurre) was built 
with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat 
butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its 
twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning in 
1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 
ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The facade (16th 
century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of 
sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romahi is a 
charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir ; the 25 
chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the 
rose windows in the nave and transepts ; the chaoel S. 
of the nave, which contains the tomb of Hollo, the 
first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel oppo- 
site, m which William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is 
buried. In the Chapelle du Christ, near the High 
Altar, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of 
Richard Coeur de Lion. The heart of the great king 
is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried 
here. The monument to Due de Breze, erected by 
his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II. 
Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is in this chapel The 
r&Chedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre f 



164 KOUEN. 

and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, height ol 
nave 89^ ft., 130 windows. 

The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest 
Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates 
from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers, 
is extremely graceful. Central Tower, " the Crown of 
Normandy," 285 ft. high. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 
ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows ; 145 stained-glass 
windows. This ch. suffered much from the Iconoclasts 
(in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance 
of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Maclou (15th- 
16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun- 
tain by Jean Goujon. Other chs.: St. Patricia (1535), 
magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint- 
ings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. Godard, fine mural 
paintings ; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century. 
St. Viticent and St. Romain also merit a visit. The 
Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hotel de Ville, 
which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should 
be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the 
Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I. 
Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and Geri- 
cault. Palace of Justice (concierge shows it, If.) is a 
veritable Gothic chef-d'oeuvre. The room in which the 
assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was 
there that the Parliament of Normandy held Hs sessions. 
On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 
as a merchants' exchange. It is now the place where 
lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum 
now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, 
Gericault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated 
artists. Visit the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, one of the 
most interesting streets in the city. The old clock- 
tower, with a gate beneath, dates from 1527. 

The most interesting section of Rouen is the Place de 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 165 

la Piicelle, where a fountain marks the place on which 
Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 
15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroulde fronts on this 
square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas- 
reliefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of 
Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Toioer (built 
1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup- 
posed to have been her prison. The Museum of An- 
tiquities and the Museum of Natural History are in an 
old convent near the Place Beauvoisine. The town 
is rich in old houses with timber-fronts. 

The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most 
ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Cours Boiel- 
dieu has a statue of Bo'ieldieu, the composer, a native 
of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned 
with a Statue of Co mettle ; and by a suspension bridge, 
at whose end is a Monument to the Abbe cle la Salle. 

The surrounding country is extremely beautiful. 
Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the Pilgrimage 
Ch. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. Delightful view over 
Normandy. The service in the ch. is peculiar. Many 
pretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit 
the Chateau of Robert le Diable, near La Bouille. 
From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c, 12| fr., 
9 fr. 20 c. Rouen may be easily visited in a day from 
Paris (fares, 16| fr., 12| fr., 9 fr. 20 c), returning in the 
afternoon. At Mantes — called "beautiful Mantes" — 
is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century, 
richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher- 
bourg. Farther on is Poissg, the birthplace of St. 
Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort 
of artists (great prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain, 
through which the line passes ; Colombes ; St. Germain, 
with its palace, may be seen on the r. ; and Asnieres, a 
Parisian suburb, inhabited by commercial people. 



166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — AKRAb, 

Amiens (Hotel cle V Univers ; Du Rhin) Is a gifsat 
manufacturing town (80,000 inhab), once the capital 
of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220-88. 
and one of tlie finest in Europe. The spire (422 ft. 
high) was restored in 1529. The W. facade is one of 
the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers 
are decorated with many statues and medallions. In 
the JPorc/ie du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, 
commonly called Le Beau Bleu d' Amiens. Few cathe- 
dral interiors excite such lively admiration for pro- 
digious vaults, lightness of the columns, and astonishing 
variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 
columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery 
(li22) ; 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures ; 
superb rose-window; stained-glass windows; and the 
great number of monuments and chapels. The choir- 
wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John 
the Baptist and the life of St. Firmin. Length of the 
cathedral, 469 ft.; of transept, 213 ft.; width of nave, 
144 ft..; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a 
statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who 
preached the First Crusade. The Picardy Museum con- 
tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice, 
and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century bell-tower, 
should be seen. About midway between Amiens and 
Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15tb 
and 16th century houses ; also the C/i. of St. Vulfran, and 
a statue to the composer Lesueur. Fares from Amiens 
to Paris, 16 fr. 10 c, 12 fr. 10 c, 8 fr. 85 c. Ely. connec- 
tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille. 

Arras {Hotel de V Univers ; Commerce) has a double 
line of fortifications ; a citadel constructed by Vauban 
in 1670; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the 
Abbey of St. Vaast. Within it are seen fine pictures 
attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck; and the treasury 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 167 

contains the robe that Thomas a Becket wore when he 
was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine 
illustration of the pictorial style which prevailed during 
the Spanish domination. Museum and Public Library. 
The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant 
summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. 
from Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 a, 34 fr. 25 c, 
25 fr. 10 c), via Caen, is a journey through the inter- 
esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th 
century, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral, 
1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married, 1152) ; 
and Caen (Hotel d' Angleterre ; D'Espagne), population 
41,181, the town of which Madame de Sevigne said 
that it was the source " de tous nos plus beaux esprits." 
View from the heights very imposing. See St. Etienne 
and Trinite Chs. ; the Chateau, founded by William 
the Conqueror; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with 
medallions of celebrated Normans ■ the Museum (400 
paintings) ; the Academy ; the Hotel de Valois ; and 
the Place de la Republique. You can reach Caen 
from Havre by steamer (6 fr. , 5 fr.), and go thence 
to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if de- 
sired. Cherbourg \Hotel de France; de V Amiraute 
et de l J Europe), a city of 37,000 inhab., on the peninsula 
of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a 
very important fortress. There is little to see beside 
the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum, a 
portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, painted by himself. 
Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is 
the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel 
Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c, 
36 fr. 30 c, 22 fr ; 20 c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint 
Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around 
and nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a 
dike. The sea surrounds it i ' hisrh tide. The rock is 



168 PARIS. 

surmounted by immense fortifications, an abbey, and u 
ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have 
been made here since Louis XI. created St. Micaael's 
Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth- 
place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the 
pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with 
old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of 
English people winter here. Dinard, 4 M. from St. 
Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest 
is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military 
port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks. 
Formidable batteries. Tares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c, 
56 fr. 35 c, 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres 
{Hotel de France ; Du Grand Monarque), an ancient 
city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which 
can be seen for 25 M. Upon this noble Gothic ch., 
which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- 
sands of statues ; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, 
and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th 
centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. id 
1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. 
There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt 
is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here. 
Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The Museur>» 
Contains a noted picture representing his funeral. 

Paris. 

Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a 
very easy city in which to find one's way about. In ■ 
summer street-merchants are always at your elbow 
with very good maps, "with which you can explore the 
capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at 
the Gftre du Nord (N. Ely. stat.), and are not encum- 
bered with baggage, walk down_ the Rue at Lafayette 



PARIS. 169 

to the Grand Opera and the Boulevard JTaussmann / 
then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boulevards, 
and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris. 
If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at 
the Gave St. Lazare, but a short walk from the boule- 
vards. In the stat. your baggage is examined both 
for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits and 
cigars are the only things about which the officers 
are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises, 
call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with 
the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 
50 c. (lOcts ). If you have a party, and several large 
trunks, charter a small private omnibus (always 
plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 fr., and 
no extra charge is made tor a reasonable amount of 
baggags. Driver expects fee. 

Caos*( Voituras) — The cab system of Paris is simple- 
and covenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 p.m. a 1-horse 
open or closed earriage for 2 persons costs, according to 
legally established tariff, 1-J-fr. for single drive; gra- 
tuity (pouvboire), rendered obligatory by custom. 25c. ; 
by hr., 2fr. From 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariff 
is for 2 seated cabs, 2£fr. per drive, 2£fr. per hr. ; 4- 
seated, 2|fr. per drive, 2ffr. per hr. The whole of a 
first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must always 
be paid; i hrs. thereafter. 50c. each. Baggage (out- 
side), 25c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day and 
per month for carriages are rather high from May to 
Aug ; with a little care a good open carriage for two 
(driver in livery) may be had for 25-30fr. per day; 
gratuity to driver. 

The taximeter is now in almost universal use. The 
charges are: For 1200 metres, or 9 min., 75c.; every 
additional 400 metres, or 3 min., 10c. ; for passing the 
fortifications, 50c; leaving cab outside fortifications, 
lfr. For night service (after midnight) there is an ad- 
ditional charge of 50c. Tip driver at rate of 50c. per 
nr., but never less Uian #oo. lor tta^ caive or uiatauce* 



170 PARIS 

Street-Cars (called tramways) run on most of the great 
thoroughfares, except the grand boulevards. They are double- 
decked; the large ones are very fine. Go to the suburbs 
upon them rather than by rail or in private carriage. Om- 
nibuses abound ; there are 32 lines. A full fare paid on 
•ne procures you a correspondan.ee gratis on another, untij 
you have reached your destination. Fares inside, 30 c. ; 
above, outside, 15 c. Ou some streets the tramway cars are 
moved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many 
small steamers, called monch^s '.and hirnnrlelles, "flies" and 
"swallows." The Metropolitan underground rly<, is con~ 
venient. The Ceinture is the name of the railway which 
runs around Paris, within the walls (23 M.)„ It is useful 
for giving a good idea of the capital's geography. Round 
trip in two hours. 

Hotels.— Hotel (Plena, Astoria, Place de l'Etoile; 
Bdtel Ritz, Hotel Bristol, Place Yendome, both expen- 
sive, aristocratic; Elysee Palace; Hbtel Continental; Cas- 
tiglione, Ruede Castiglione; Montana, Ruede TEchelle; 
Vouillemont ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel, 
Boulevard des Capucines; Terminus, Gare St. Lazare; 
Vendbme, Place Yendome; Regina, Meurice, Windsor, 
Brighton, Rue de Rivoli; Grand Hotel St. James, de LiUe 
fi d 1 Albion, de Normandie, Rue St. Honore; Westminster, 
Mirabeau, Splendide, Rue de la Paix; de Londres, DomU 
nici, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de V Empire? 
deV Amir ante, d'Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. An- 
gustin) ; Normandy, des Deux Mondes, and Binda, in the 
Avenue de l'Opera; du Palais, Cours La Reine; d'AXbe, 
Avenue de l'Alma; de St. Petersbourg, Rue Caumartin; 
de VAthenee, Rue Scribe ; de Bade, Boulevard des Itat 
iens ; de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de 
Baviere, Rue du Conservatoire ; des Ambassadeurs, Rue 
de Lille ; de Londres, Rue Bonaparte ; du Senat, Rue de 
Tournon ; Hotel de CrUlon, Place de la Concorde. More 
modest hotels are Hotel d" 1 Oxford et de Cambridge; de 
la Tamise, Rue d' Alger; de la Couronne, Rue du Dau- 
phin; Trois Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs; 
& Antin, Rue d'Antin; Helder, Rue du Holder; Byron, Rue 



170 

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PARIS. 171 

Laffltte ; Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul ; De France, Rue 
de Beaune ; Des Etrangers, Rue Racine. 

Boarding-Houses (or Pensions).— Of these there 
are many. Prices, 10-15 francs daily. We give the ad- 
dresses of a few : Madame Barbier, 42 Quai des Orf evres ; 
Madame Russell, 6 Square de l'Opera; M. and Mme. 
Pincet, 35 Rue Cambon ; Mrs. Defone, oZbis Boulevard 
Haussmann ; Prof. Tonnst, same address ; Mme. Starck, 
30 Rue Bassano ; Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Fried- 
land ; American Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocadero ; the 
Misses McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe ; Hotel Dijon, 29 
Rue Caumartin. Furnished single rooms can be had in 
all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 125 francs per month. 
Furnished suites of rooms (in French, apartement signi- 
fies a suite) from 250 francs per month upwards. Always 
inquire particularly about extras, even in the best pen- 
sions, otherwise you may be surprised when the bill is 
presented. 

Restaurants and Cafes.— Cafe de Londres, Boulevard 
Madeleine, 25 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens ; 
Cafe Riche, 16 same street ; Maison Doree, 20 same street ; 
Vidal, 41 Avenue de l'Opera; No'el, Peters, Passage des 
Princes; Brebant, 31 Boulevard Poissonniere; dela Terrace, 
30 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle; BonvaleVs, Boulevard du 
Temple ; Cafe de la Paix, near the Grand Opera ; Maire, 
14 Boulevard St. Denis ; Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de 
l'Opera ; Moka, 44 and 46 Avenue "Wagram ; Oaillon, Place 
Gaillon ; Restaurant de France, 9 Boulevar I Poissonniere; 
Restaurant des Ambassadeurs, in the Champs Elysees; 
Champeaux, 13 Place de la Bourse ; Durand, 2 Place de la 
Madeleine ; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet ; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tour- 
non; Restaurant de la Porte-Dor ee, Avenue Daumesnil, 
275; CampelVs, 370 Rue St.-Honore. These are all d la 
carte. Some of these places are rather expensive ; the 
others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the 
Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Mont- 
martre, are several restaurants where brea,kfasts and 
dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Diner de 
Paris, 12 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 fr. ; dinner, 



172 PARIS 

5 fr. Wine is always included in fixed-price dinners, 
ilie Diner Europeen is very good : breakfast, 3 fr \ 
dinner, 5 f r. In the Palais Royal there are numerous 
restaurants that give breakfast at 1 f r. 75 c. ; dinner, 
2 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. The Duval Restaurants, or 
Etablissements de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is 
but a limited choice of dishes, but everything is well 
prepared and moderately cheap. The Parisians break- 
fast 10.30-1, and dine 6-8. We cannot mention one 
third of the principal cafes, but will recommend the 
Cafe Anglais, Tortoni, Grand, Americain, Helder^ 
Madrid, Riche, Varieties, De Paris, Napolitain. In the 
Bois. restaurants : Pavilion d'Armenonrille, la Cascade^ 
Madrid. Ladies with escorts may visit most of the 
cafes mentioned above, even in the evening. 

General Information. — The Ambassador of the 
United States is the Hon. Robert Bacon; the Secre- 
tary of Embassy is Mr. Arthur Bailly Blanchard. 
The present Consul-General at Paris is Mr. Frank 
Mason. American church services : Rue de Berry, 
31; Avenue de l'Alma, 19 (Episcopal). 

The Latin Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for centuries beta 
devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds. 
Many thousands of students reside there all the time. The 
Students' Ball, called the Closer ie des Li/as, or Bullier, is at 
the Carrefour de V Observatoire. 

There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April, 
May, aud September. The spectacle in the Bois de Boulogne 
when the Grand Prix (the principal summer race) is run, 
should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr. 

We would suggest that you start from the Place de 
la Concorde, walk up the Rue Royale to the Ch. of the 
Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the line of 
the grands boulevards to the Place de la Bastille. 
You may go on an omnibus-top for 3 sous, or in an opes 
carriage for 1 fr. 75c. ; but we say. walk. 



PARIS 173 

BoihA'ard des Gapucines (this is mid - Paris ; 
here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand 
Cafe, the Jockey Club, and the Rue Scribe) ; 
Des Ualiens (brilliant with theatres and restaurants) ; 
Montmartre (splendid cafes and shops) ; Poissoniere ; 
Bonne-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the old city gates, 
very fine) ; St. Martin ; Du Temple ; Des Filles du Cal- 
vaire ; Beaumarchuis, — and you are at the Bastille, 
i. e. the square where the celebrated prison stood. 
Whole length of this line of streets, 2f M. Return by 
the Rue 8t. Antoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past 
the Tuileries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence you 
started. The exterior boulevards run from near the 
Arc de Triomphe, at the Terties, around to the quays 
of Bercy on the Seine, through La Villette and Belle- 
ville, the workmen's quarters. Tramways here. The 
Boulevards du Strasbourg, Sebastopol, Du Palais, and 
St. Michel form a continuous avenue from the Eastern 
Rly. stat. across the city to the Observatory. A walk 
from one end to the other is extremely interesting. 
A visit to one of the "cabarets artistiques," which 
have recently sprung up in Montmartre, is well 
worth while. See description in " Paris-Parisien," 
an excellent guide to these and other noteworthy 
sights of Paris. 

The Isle de la Cite on which Paris began, should 
have an early visit. Notre Dame, the cathedral of the 
Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1163-82, on the site 
of a 4th-century ch. It is 417 ft. long, 156 wide, and 
110 high. Twin towers, 264 ft The facade (13th 
century), with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds 
of statuary over the portals, is very imposing. The 
carvings over the central entrance represent the Last 



174 NOTRE DAME— PALACE DE JUSTICE 

Judgment. Entrance by 1. portal. In the Revolu- 
tion, in 1793. the eh. was converted into a " Temple 
of Reason." During the Commune it was a military- 
depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at the 
time of the Revolution. Choir completed, 12th cen- 
tury ; W. portion, in 13th. The interior, with its navts 
and double aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates 
are buried in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support 
the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in the transept. 
37 chapels. Fine pulpit, by Viollet-le-Duc, in the nave. 
The Treasury (fee, \ fr.) may be inspected. The rob& 
in which Archbishop Darboy was shot by the Com., 
mimists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20 c. ) a 
go round to N. side of i. front tower, and ring the bell. 
In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note the 
curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof. 
The effect of the flying buttresses below is very strik- 
ing. See Victor Hugo's Notre Dame de Paris, for an 
eloquent description of the cathedral. The view from 
the towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day 
it is bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind 
Notre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, where you 
may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the public. 
From the cathedral's top observe the new Hotel Dieu, 
an immense hospital ; the Fontaine Notre Dame, the 
Place du Parvis, and the Flower Market. The old Ho- 
tel Dieu (660) has been demolished. 

While you are in the Cite, go to see the Palais de 
Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the prison 
of the Conciergerie,vA\exe Marie Antoinette and so many 
other victims of the Revolution were imprisoned. 
The Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays ; 
and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited 
(guide, 1-2 fr.). The Cour d'Honneur is very fine* 
The great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 255 ft. long, is where 



PARIS. 175 

tnystery-plays were performed. See Hugo's Notre 
Dame. The Sainte Chapelle (open daily 12-4, except 
Mon. and Fri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic 
(1245-4S). Note the magnificent stained glass filling 
the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy 
Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the 1 
Palais de Justice is the Tribunal cle Commerce, a beauti- 
ful Renaissance building, 1860-66 (open daily). Ob- 
serve the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of 
the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place 
Dauphine, and the equestrian Statue of Henri IV. near 
by. Good view of the Louvre from the Pont Neuf 

Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764- 
90), on high ground, on the spot where Genevieve, the 
patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Con- 
stituent Assembly made a Pantheon out of it ; and the 
Catholics never permanently regained their place of 
worship. Inscription on pediment: Aux grands hommes 
la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.) ; ascend 
it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine. 
Portico of 22 Corinthian columns, 81 ft. high. Small 
fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of- 
Voltaire, Rousseau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other 
noted men. St. Etienne du Mont (1517) near the Panthe- 
on, has some matchless stained glass of the 16th cen- 
tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Ger- 
main 1' Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From 
its belfry the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew 
was sounded. Note the oval arches of the porch (1435^. 
Facade 15th and 16th centuries, Rich modern frescos 
and interesting chapels inside. St. Germain des Pres 
is on Rue Bonaparte ; built 1001-1163, as the ch. of a 
powerful abbe r /. Inside are admirable and extensive 
frescos by the celebrated Flandrin ; ancient monu- 
ments hi choir and nave. St. Eustache is near the 



176 THE MADELEINE. 

Halles Centrales (1532-1637) ; Gothic, with Greoan 
W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suffered 
much damage in the Commune, when it was used as a 
" Club." Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue 
St. Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich ; famous 
music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, and 
blew the French Revolution into space ; vide Carlyle. 
— Notre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Chateandun, is the 
ch. that Thiers was buried from. The Trinite, Place 
of same name ; new (1867), very elegant and rich. 
St. Vincent de Paul, Rue de Lafayette. — The brilliant! 
new Russian Ch., near the Pare de Monceaux. Inter, 
esting service here. The Vol de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, 
wonderfully decorated with paintings by Mignard 
St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorates 
ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and statues of Sts. Petei 
and Paul. La Sorbonne, adjoining the great university, 
contains the Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu. 

The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in Paria, 
is in the style of a Greek temple, 330 ft. long, 130 wide > 
and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the 
colonnade are niches containing figures of saints. Cou- 
ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120 X 
25, represents the Last Judgment. The bronze doors 
are subjects from the Old Testament. On Grand 
Altar, the Assumption, in white marble ; and painting 
of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Flower-market on 
each side of the ch., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music, 
Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains 
many fine paintings. — The Chapelle Expiatoire, Rue 
d'Anjou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his 
Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The 
new Ste. Clo tilde, Place Bellechasse, and St. Pierre 
de Montmartre, are worth seeing. Notre Dame de 
Bonnes Nouvelles, on the summit of Montmartre, is a 
new church and one of the largest in Paris. 



PAKIS. 177 

The Palaces. — The best place from which to see 
the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before 
St. Germain. The Colonnade was constructed in 1685, 
on the E. facade. The central portion of this front 
is known as the Pavilion Henri Quatre. See statues 
of Napoleon I.'s generals on the Rohan Pavilion. The 
interior courtyard is an architectural marvel. See 
the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the 
Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, 
which are among the richest and most remarkable in 
Europe, is through a door on the 1., coming from the 
Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through, 
the Pavilion Denon, in the middle of the N. facade of 
the building erected by Napoleon III. Collections 
open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9-5 ; in 
winter, 10-4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col- 
lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m. 
tjuicles 2 fr. an hr., but the catalogues will enable 
most visitors to find their way about. The Venus 
of 3Iilo, the Fettered Slaves of Michael Angelo, the 
Mona Lisa of Leonardo da Vinci, and a noble group 
of the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese are 
the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 21 large 
pictures by Hubens. The Salon Carre contains the 
most striking works of art. There are 2,000 paintings 
in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), 
with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese 
Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the 
Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for 
Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site being 
a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed during 
the Communal insurrection of 18/1 The whole front 
was so utterly ruined that restoration was considered 
out of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the 
Gallery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the 



178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOURG. 

Tuileries. Fine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. 
The courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes its 
name from a carousal, or ball, held there by Louis XIV. 
in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an 
imitation of the Arch of Severus at Rome, and was 
erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories 
of 1805-6. It was originally crowned with the horses 
taken from the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Venice, 
but these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- 
cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived 
there; and Louis XVIIL, Charles X., Louis Phi- 
lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read 
Carlyle's account of the attack on the Tuileries by a 
mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuile- 
ries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, which extends to the 
Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful 
xesort thronged with people. Military music twice a 
week in summer. The Terrasse cles Feuillamts, on 
the N. side, is a pleasant promenade. 

The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20 3 
and enlarged in 1801. It was once a royal habitation, 
a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the 
Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet- 
ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and 
museum open daily (except Mon.), 10-4. The Little 
Luxembottrg, supposed to have been built by Marie de 
Medicis, is near by. The collections were (until 1875) 
next in importance to the Louvre. The Luxembourg- 
Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis- 
tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open 
daily (Mon. excepted), 9-5 in summer; Sun. and Fri., 
10-4. In the garden, where military music is played 
on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine 
fountain, and statues of celebrated Frenchwomen. 

The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers. 



PARIS. 179 

It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The 
famous galleries, which now form such a charming 
promenade, and are filled with attractive shops, were 
built by Philippe-Egalite. The Theatre of the Comedie 
Frangaise is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed 
by fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt. 

The "Palais de l'Elysee, having facades on the 
Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Ely sees, is at 
present the residence of the President of the Republic. 
It was built in 1718, and restored under Napoleon I. 
Fine old garden on the Champs-Elysees side. The 
Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Legislatif held 
its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the 
Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle fronting 
on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight 
of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hotel 
dela Presidency is near by. The Palais d'Orsay was 
partly destroyed in May, 1871. 

The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Grand 
Palais and the Petit Palais, occupy the triangle 
between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where 
formerly was the Palais de V Industrie. This was 
used for the first international exhibition in Paris in 
1855, and since then until its demolition the annual 
Salon was held there. Here also is the approach to 
the handsome Pont Alexandre III., the memorial 
stone of which was laid by the Tsar Nicholas II., in 
1896. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pom- 
peien, built for Prince Napoleon after the one of 
Diomed at Pompeii. Admission 1-2 fr. 

The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the olA 
Hotel de Nesie, was completed in 1662. It is an odd 
structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures 
of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution 
it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions 
here. The annual meeting of the five departments 



180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE 

combined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine 
libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is 
open to the public 10-1 (except Sun.). 

The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rue Bonaparte, 
is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, founded in 
1648 (open daily, 10-1; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing 
which separates the court from the Rue Bonaparte are 
colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva- 
Hdes, in Rue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop's Palace. 

The quaint mediaeval Hotel de Cluny (founded 
about 1500), Rue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000 
objects in marble, wood, stone, ivory, enamels, terra- 
cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at 
the door). The old Palais des TAermes, which fronts 
on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius 
Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on 
record his predilection for spending part of his time in 
his " dear Lutetia " (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee 
Municipal, at the Hotel Carnavalet, Rue Sevigne, can 
be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., 
composed of works relative to the history of the city of 
Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery Museum is at 
the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Thurs., and Sun. 
in summer, 12-3). The Mint Museum, on the Quai 
Conti. may be visited Tues. and Fri. (12-3), by order. 

Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne 
is the chief park of the French capital, and comprises 
a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial 
lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending 
along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected 
with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent ave- 
nues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de 
Boulogne, is 4,200 -ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The 
drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion 
of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and of 



PARIS. 181 

strangers from all parts of the world in summer from 
5-8 o'clock. The Cascade; the Field of Longchamps, 
on which races and reviews are held; the Jardin 
d' Acclimatation (zoological gardens) ; Model Dairy, 
Pre Catalan ; the Allee des Acacias, through the cen- 
tre of this park; the pretty suburbs of Passy and 
Auteuil; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes and 
St. Cloud, are the principal objects of interest. 

E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast 
woody tract, which, furnishes a delightful breathing- 
place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sat., 
12-4, by order from Commandant) was built in 1164, 
and is a strong fortress, containing barracks and 
arsenal and a military school. There is a monument 
to the Due d'Enghien; and from the Donjon, a 
a square tower 190 feet high, a fine view may be 
enjoyed. The chapel was founded in 1379. 

The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 
55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre 
is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple 
of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near here on 
the 30th of May, 1814. The Pare de Monceaux 
may be entered from the Rue de Courcelles. It 
covers 18 acres, and is surrounded by magnificent 
residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of 
Communists were executed here at the close of the 
insurrection. 

The Champs-Elys6es is a world-famous prome- 
nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national 
fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts 
of importance have summer theatres here. 

The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omni- 
bus or by river steamboat, is open daily, 10 till dark. 
The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10-5 ; the 
Galleries, containing the collections, Tues. and Sun. 
afternoons; library daily, 10-3. Botanic Garden 
here, one of the pleasantest promenades in the city. 



182 JULY COLUMN. - AEC DE TRIOMPHE. 

The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares 
in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion 
about Paris. In the centre is the Obelisk of Luxor, 
given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is 
76 ft. high, and weighs 240 tons. On either side is a 
handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 
8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of France. 
On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally 
observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked 
here in 1871. In 1792-99, 3,000 people perished here 
on the guillotine. Louis XVI. was executed near 
central gate of Tuileries garden . The Place de la 
Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. 
high, with figure of Libertv See Place du Chateau 
d'Eau, Place du Chatelet, Place Louvois, and Place 
Dauphiue. On the Place du Pont St. Michel there is a 
fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael over- 
coming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands 
the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years 
of his life. In the centre of the Place de VEtoile, at the 
top of the Champs-Elysees, stands the noble Arc de 
Triomphe de l'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I., 
and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of 
$2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft. wide, 
and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. 
wide. On the side are groups representing the Napo- 
leonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear 
on the vault. Spiral staircase of 26 1 steps to platform at 
top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch 
to the Porte Maillot runs the Ave. de la Grande Armee. 

In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high, 
surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I. , in costume of 
a Csesar. The column, pulled down by communists in 
1871, was made of cannon taken from the Aus- 
trians. Notice curious heads over the houses round 



PARIS. 183 

the Square. The Place Louvois, near the National 
Library ; the Place de la Bourse, where stands the 
Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors 
can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ; 
the Square Montholon, on the Rue Lafayette ; the 
Esplanade, in front of the Invalides: the Champs de 
Mars, where four great exhibitions have been held, 
and where the celebrated Eiffel Tower (984 ft. in 
height) is located; the Trocadero Gardens, now crowned 
with a superb palace used for historical collections and 
for musical concerts ; the Place Glichy, at the head of 
the street of the same name ; and the Place de la Nation, 
should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de 
Greve, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so 
often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the 
Place de l' Hotel de Ville ; and directly in the rear of it 
is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected 
on the ruins of the one burned to the ground by the 
Communists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 
1533-1628, a library of lv)0,000 vols, was consumed. 
The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundred? 
of statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square, 
in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred 
when they are sentenced to death. Man j notorious exe 
cutions occurred on this Place. In the Place des Victoires 
see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV.; the statues of 
Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue de Rivoli, in the Place des 
Pt/ramides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. 
The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, 
on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches, 
erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate 
the victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and on the 
Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered 
Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, 
just as the German armies entered under the Arc de 



184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS. 

Triomphe in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were 
sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848, 
and 1S71. One of the most formidable barricades, and 
one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, 
was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. 
Jacques, which occupies a portion of the site of the old 
Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower 
(1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old 
church; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the 
arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. 
The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See 
in the Square clu Temple the group of lime-trees under 
which Louis XYL used to sit when he was a prisoner. 
The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening on the 
Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school. 
Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe 
(open 10-4 ; Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Pri., Sat., 
1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory of the 
old abbey. The handsome Gothic Rail is now a library, 
20,000 vols, (open to students, 10-3, 7.30-10 daily). 
The Fontaine de V Observatoire is ornamented with 
columns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon, 
Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin 
des Plantes ; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same 
name ; Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in the 
city; the Fontaine des Innocents, in Square of same 
name; Fontaine Louis le Grand; Fontaine Moliere, 
entrance to Rue Moliere ; Fontaine Richelieu, in the 
Rue de Richelieu; Fontaine Notre Dame; Fontaine 
St. Sulpice ; and the Fontaine de la Victoire. 

The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not 
escape the stranger's attention. The most noticeable 
are the Passages Jouffroy, des Panoramas, de V Opera, 
des. Princes, on the grand boulevards ; the Choiseul, 
Rue des Petits Champs ; Passage Verdean, a continua- 



PARIS. 185 

tion of the Jouffroy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue 
Montmartre ; Passage Vivienne, from Rue Vivienne ; 
Passage du Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the 
Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who 
offer their services in these arcades. The best shop- 
ping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chaus- 
see d'Antin, Avenue de l'Opera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard 
Haussmann, Rue des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue 
Auber, Boulevard St. Germain, and all the grand 
boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de l'Opera are 
usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the 
Rue de Rivoli are not. 

Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The 
most noticeable is Pere-la-Chaise. Here the Com- 
munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top 
bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con- 
corde. See graves and tombs here of Helo'ise and 
Abelard; Alfred de Musset; the composers Bellini, 
Gretry, Boieldieu, Cherubini, Rossini and Chopin; 
of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the trage- 
dian, Dupuytren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Be- 
ranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant, 
Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Balzac, Eugene 
Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney; Clement Thomas 
and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune; 
and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Saturday) 
the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See 
Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop 
and other hostages were executed by the Communists. 
The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- 
rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier, 
Gozlan, Mtirger, Horace Vernet and Troyon. On the 
Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery. 
Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are 
tombs of Lafayette and many members of old French 
nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of 
burial-ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined, where 



186 hOtel des invalides. 

1,300 persons, executed at the Barriere du 'i'rone, are 
buried. 

Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ramparts 
(cost, 128,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. 
They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 
48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71 
the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged. 
The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 
detached forts, none of them farther than 2 M. from the 
city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- 
turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank 
of the Marne and Seine are best worth visiting. 

f he Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in 
the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from 
the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670 
by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There 
are at present about 500 inmates, although the build- 
ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome 
of the Ch. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a 
long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I. 
The facade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In 
front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. 
Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure 
of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the " Triumphal 
Battery," used in firing salutes on great occasions. 
Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d'Hon- 
neur, painted with scenes from various French warlike 
epochs, the Refectories, Library, the Salle du Conseil, 
the Artillery Museum, and the Ch., in which is the 
Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome 
(entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Eri., 
12-3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are 
inscribed the words from v .he Emperor's last will : 
"I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks 
of the Seine, among that French people I have so 



PARIS. 187 

well loved/' Note the bas-reliefs by Sim^rfc ; colos- 
sal victories by Pradier; the sarcophagus, which 
weighs 67 tons ; the decoration of the tomb ; and 
tne monument of Vauban and Turenne. In a chapel 
on the 1. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte ; on the 
r.j the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King 
of Spain. The Hotel cles Invalides is shown daily 
from 12-3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to 
the Ecole Mililaire, founded in 1751 by Louis XV. 
A noble building; admission by special order. A 
great number of executions of Communists here. 

Operas and Theatres. — The majority of the 
Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will 
wish to visit the Grand Opera, or National Academy 
of Music, and the Theatre Francais, which are open 
the year round. The new Opera House was built 
1861-74, and is the largest theatre in the world, cov- 
ering nearly 3 acres, but seats fewer people (2,156) 
than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The facade 
is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice 
the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The 
7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, 
declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the 
medallions and busts of composers. The grand stair- 
case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique 
marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest 
in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen- 
tlemen we recommend the Sialics de Parterre, 7 fr. ; 
to families, if economy be an object, the Troisiemes, 8 fr. 
Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except 
occasionally on Sat. The Amphitheatre is the choice 
part of the house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi- 
nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue 
de TOpera is the Theatre Frangais, the rank of 
which is well known. Pounded in 1600, it was unde/ 



188 OPERAS AND THEATRES. 

Moliere's superintendence until his death. The lobby 
contains statues of Voltaire, G-eorge Sand, and other 
celebrities (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the 
home of genteel comedy; and the theatres where it 
can be best seen are the Renaissance, Rejane. Vau- 
deville, and G-ymnase. For light opera go to the 
Opera Comique (good seats, 8-12 fr.). The Odeon 
ranks next to the Frangais, and there, as at the lead- 
ing theatre, classical drama is often produced. For 
opera bouffe go to the Trianon, the Bouffes Paris- 
iens, or the Folies Dramatiques. The Varietes has 
a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The 
Palais Royal and Athenee are the recognized temples 
of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played 
nowhere so well as in Paris. The Chatelet is mainly 
devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces and ballets. The 
Theatre Sarah- Bernhardt , formerly des Nations, is 
is where Bernhardt plays when in Paris. For other 
theatres, see daily papers or the English papers. 
There are several circus buildings and an immense 
Hippodrome. Concerts Sunday afternoons in win- 
ter, generally at the Theatre dn Chatelet, Ihedtre 
Sarah Bernhardt and Champs Elysees Circus. The 
best music halls are the Olympia, Casino de Paris, 
la Scala and Folies-Bergere ; in summer, the Mar- 
igny, Jardin de Paris, des Ambassadeurs and 
Alcazar d'Fte, all in the Champs Elysees. 

Museums. — The Louvre ; paintings, statuary, 
antiquities; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, Mondays 
•excepted. The Luxembourg ; paintings, statuary, 
chiefly works of living French artists; 9-5 except 
Sun. ; when the Senate is in session tickets must be 
obtained from a Senator or from the Secretaire de la 
{juesture. Cluny, Rue de Sommerard ; antiquities and 
curiosities; 10-4 except Monday. Moliere. Collec- 
tion of busts and portraits of great value as regards 
the literary history of France, in various parts of the 
Theatre Francuits; authorization to visit the non- 



PARIS 189 

Sublic parts of building from the archivist, M. G. 
lonval. Camavalet, Rue de Sevigne; objects re- 
lating to the history of the French Revolution ; 11-4 
Sun. and Thurs. Archives Nationales, Rue des 
Francs-Bourgeois; objects and documents relative to 
French history; 10-4 except Monday. Cabinet des 
Estampes et des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 daily. 
Musee des Beaux-Arts, Rue Bonaparte; casts, copies, 
engravings; 10-4 daily. Instrumental, Rue de Fau- 
bourg-Poisonniere; musical instruments of all epochs; 
12-4 Mon. and Thurs. De V Opera; autograph MSS. 
of composers, instruments, costumes; 11-4 except 
Sunday. De la Monnaie, Quai Conti ; medals, coins, 
postage stamps; 12-3 Tues. and Fri. on authorization 
obtained from the director of the mint. Des Gobelins, 
ancient and modern tapestries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat. 
Trocadero; on the ground floor, casts of architectural 
and other sculpture; 11-4 except Monday; first floor, 
ethnographical museum; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday. 
Guimet, Avenue d'lena; collection relative to the 
history of eastern religions; 12-4 daily. Du Garde- 
Meuble, Quai d'Orsay; furniture, tapestries, bronzes, 
etc., from Louis XIV. to present time; interesting; 
10-4 except Monday. Des Arts et Metiers, Rue St.- 
Martin; collection relative to applied science and in- 
dustries; one of the halls has remarkable acoustic 
properties; 10-4 Sun., Tues. and Thurs.; other days 
by special permit. Dupuytren and Orftla, Rue de 
l'Ecole de Medicine; anatomy and pathology; 10-4 
except Sunday ; tickets obtained at the office of the 
secretary of the Faculte de Medecine. D'Artillerie, 
at the Hotel des Invalides; arms and armor; 10-4 
except Monday. Caen, 1 Rue de Seine; paintings 
offered in competition for the Prix de Rome; admis- 
sion on request. Cemusci, 7 Avenue Velasquez*, 
Chinese and Japanese art. 

National Library (2,000,000 vols.), in the Rue 
de Richelieu, (see local guides); the beautiful St. 



190 ALONG THE SEINE 

Genevieve Library (120,000 vols, and 35,000 MSS.), Place du 
Pantheon; the Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov. 
ering many acres, reached froni the Rue Montmartre or 
Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited between 6 and 
8 a.m., when the marketing is most active. The Bourse 
de Commerce, in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old 
wheat exchange called the Halle au Ble. The Halle aux 
Vim, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin 
des Plantes ; 20 million gallons can be stored there. The 
Abattoirs, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 
persons are employed there. 

The Hospitals of the Hotel Dieu, Beaujon, Fau- 
bourg St. Honore; La Charite, Rue Jacob; LaPitie, Rue 
Lacepede; Lariboisiere, near the N. Rly. stat.; St. Lowfc, 
Rue Bichat ; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines ; De Lourcine, 
street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de l'Ecole de 
Meaecine; Des Incurables, at Ivry,— may generally be 
visited without difficulty. For descriptions of the great 
Asylums, of the Mont de Piete, of the Prisons (historical 
ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military 
establishments, see local guides. An excursion through 
the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Place de la Con- 
corde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month 
in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of 
most of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly 
6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with 
permission. 

Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most noticeable 
are the Pont d'Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, 
is 390 feet long, and has the names of the principal officers 
killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments 
of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 185S. 
The Pont Neuf was begun in 1578, and completed in 
1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry IV. 
The Pont des Arts was built for pedestrians only. The 
Pont du Carrousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those 
on the left bank representing Abundance and Industry* 
and on the right the Seine and the City of Paris. The 
Pont Royal was built in 1668. Just below is the pier for 
the steamers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Far- 



VERSAILLES 191 

ther down the Seine are the Pont de Sdlferino, 155 yards 
}ong, with the names of the principal French victories 
in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices; the 
Pont de la Concorde, opposite the Palais Bourbon; the 
Pont dcs Invalided, which has statues representing victory 
by land and victory by sea; the Pout de VAlma, with 
statues between the arches representing different types 
of French soldiers; the Pout d^ena, built 1808-13, opposite 
the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and 
horses; the Pont Alexandre III., built in 1899; 
and the Pont du Jour 3 a superb viaduct, 570 feet long. 

Excursions near Paris. 

Versailles (Hotel des Reservoirs, where the German 
princes dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by 
half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Parnasse stat. 
(ll|-12i M. ; return-fares, 3 fr. 30c, 2f'r,70c.); or 
by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, 
through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, 
and Ville d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of 
61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace 
that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between 
low, forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000. 
The palace overlooks the town. Bee Hotel de Ville; 
the Palais de Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) ; 
the Salle du Jeu de Paume, the cradle of the French 
Revolution; the Statue of Horace Vemet ; and 
the Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Hoe he, with 
the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St. 
Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among 
which are those of Bayard, Colbert, Massena, and Tu- 
remie, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV. 
In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a 
palace and park; and Levan and Mansard erected the 
buildings, while Le Notre laid out and decorated the 
gardens. The palace has not been inhabited s*ice 
1789 i ana in the reign of Louis Philippe it was con* 



192 VERSAILLES. 

Verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription 
shows, " To all the Glories of Prance." The Chapel 
is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is 
open daily, 12-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at 
the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble 
Staircase, leading to the first story ; and th» Queen's 
Staircase, to the second. The Museum is va> -, and its 
magnificent halls are crowded with statues, and por- 
traits of the generals, admirals, and sovr /jigns of 
France, and with hundreds of pictures of he? battles in 
all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, )elacroix, 
Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panoras »a of mili- 
tary glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in ikderie des 
Batailles, a hall 396 X 52 ft. in area. In tl,e Salle du 
Sacre is the great picture of the " Consecration of 
Napoleon," by David ; also, Gros's famouw painting, 
" The Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des 
Glaces is the most notable hall, 240 X 35 ft. in area, 
adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679-83), and over, 
looking the gardens. The Bedroom of Lduis XIV. , 
the Salle des Gardes, the King's Antech umber, the 
Council Hall, the Salle de la Guerre ; and, on the 
ground floor, the Halls of the Marshals, oi' the Kings 
of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), 
and of the Royal Residences, — are especially worth 
visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are extremely inter- 
esting. In the Queen s Chamber the 3 queens, Marie 
Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have 
lodged. Catalogues, giving description of all the rooms, 
fur sale at palace. Fine view of the Grand Canal and 
the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of the 
palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen. 
erally announced in the Paris papers) The chief cu/ 
riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); the 
Parterres du Midi and du Nora T ; the -Piece d'Eau de* 



ST. CLOUD. 193 

Suites ; the Neptune Fountain ; the two fountains near 
the Orangery ; the Lalona Basin ; and the Grande Ah 
lee cki Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long, 
and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIV. 
gave his Venetian festivals, famous in history. The 
Grand Trianon, a horseshoe-shaped villa, built by 
Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is _ open daily 
(12-4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine 
was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are also 
open daily. Notice the curious display of old state- 
coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach- 
house near the Grand Trianon. When the Grand.es, 
Emir, plav, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr, 1^ fr. 

St. Cloud ("Restaurants: Belvedere; de la Gare) is 
visited from St. Lazare (lfr. 60c., lfr. 10c.;; or by 
steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From 
the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk 
through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn 
up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de- 
stroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dis- 
lodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of 
Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr.) 
Many ruined buildings in the town, remains of the 
conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new 
ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire. 
New Hotel de Ville, near by. Magnificent outlook over 
Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was 
inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785. 
The rly. from Paris to Versailles runs through the 
beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, foun- 
tains, and lakes. See the Trocadero Garden, N. of the 
palace ; the Pavilion de Breteuil ; and the great water 
jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of Montr etont 
near the rly., was the scene of a desperate fight, k 
the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in which 
they lost 3,000 men. Monument here to the slain. 



194 SEVRES— ST. GERMAIN-RUEIL 

Sevres is easily readied from St. Cloud. Here is 
the noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the 
Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted 
"without cards. The Workshops may be inspected 
Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de 
Yalois, Paris). Illy, from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min. 
walk from the factory. 

St Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most 
beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, lfr. 65 c, lfr. 
35 c). The principal sights are the Pavilion Henri 
Quatre, in which Louis XIV. was bom, and Thiers 
died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the 
forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau , 
where James II. of England lived after the Revolution 
of 1C88. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum, erected by George 
IY. to the memory of James. The 'forest of St. Ger- 
main, one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is 
full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be 
spent in this lofty and healthy old town. The Museum 
of National Antiquities is in the chateau (open "Sun., 
Tues., and Thurs., 11-5). The Terrace, constructed 
by Le Notre in 1672, is 1^- M. long, with superb view. 
Prom St. Germain to Versailles is a pleasant walk. 

Rueil (fares, 95 c, 65 c.) is 8f M. from St. Lazare 
stat. In its Ch. -are monuments to Empress Josephine 
and Queen Hortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil, 
2 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there 
Josephine -died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau 
of Buzenval, near which the artist, Henri Regnault, 
was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About 2| M. 
from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. 
See the Restaurant, witli walls decorated with land- 
scapes by Corot, Pranyais, etc. Prom thence go to 
Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch. 
It is but 7-8 min. walk thence to Voirirj. On the 



ST. DENIS. — ENGHIEN. 1 95' 

hill is Marly-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palace 
built by Louis XIV., and destroyed during the Revo- 
lution. Victorien Sarclou lives here. To the W. is 
Monte Cristo, in which Dumas the Elder lived so long. 

St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr. 
30 c, 85 c., 70 c). Chapel begun here, a.d. 275, 
in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on 
Montmartre, and who is said to have taken it on his 
arm and walked off across the fields. Dagobert built 
the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by 
Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demol- 
ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years 
later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. It 
was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments 
and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ; 
the Oriflamme was kept ; Abelard dwelt ; Joan of Arc 
hung up her arms; Henri I. abjured Protestant- 
ism; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise. 
The bones of the Kings of Prance from Dagobert 
(630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and 
the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs, 
and buried them in a common ditch. They are now 
in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn 
the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. 
wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en- 
riched with mosaics and statuary. 

Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly. 
EngMen is noted for sulphur baths; and at Mont- 
morency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, 
and where he began La Nouvelle Helolse. Robespierre 
and G retry also Jived here. Chaniilly and Compiegne 
{fares to Char.tillv. 5fr. 5c , 3fr. 75c, 2fr. 80c ; to 
Compiegne. lOfr. 30c, 7fr. 35c, _3fr. 65c) Chan- 
Lilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Conde. and 
was beautified by them from the 13th century until the 



196 COMPIEGNE.-FONTAINEBLEAU. 

Revolution. It has two fine chateaux (described by 
Madame de Sevigne), and a famous forest of 10 
square M. Spring and autumn races here. Com- 
pifegne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon 
I. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there 
with great magnificence. The GaUrie des Fetes is 
superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of 
Napoleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. 
around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excursion 
by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal 
fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Viollet-le-Puc, 
with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height 
over Pierrefonds. Hotel des Ruines, near by. 
Ermenonville (return tickets, 7 fr. 90 c, 5 fr. 90 c, 
4 fr. 95 c. ; Le Bourget, where there were many fights 
in 1870-71, is on this route), is the beautiful retreat 
where Eousseau died, in 1778. Celebrated Park just 
beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontaine- 
bleau {Lion d'Or; Aigle-Noir ; Du Nordetdela 
Poste; De la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons 
(return tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c, 4 f«. 95 c). On the 
the road is Charenton, with its celebrated lunatic 
asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there is a horse 
and dog hospital; Montmesly and Ilelun, with two 
handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From 
stat., omnibus (1£ M. ; 30-50 c.) to the Chateau 
(open daily, 12-4). This stately palace was built by 
Francis L, on the site of Louis VII. 's castle; and 
here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, 
Louis XIII. was born, Josephine was divorced, 
Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was 
imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It 
is crowded with rich frescoes and paintings, Gobe- 
lins tapestries, and antique furnishings. See the bou- 
doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms or Anne of 
Austria and Catherine de Medicis, and the splendid 



SCEAUX. — MEUDON. — ORLEANS. 197 

fealle des Fetes. This was a favorite abode of the 
Empress Eugenie and her son. The Forest, dear to 
artists, and one of the most beautiful in the world, 
must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine 
gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads 
and pathways. On the borders are many charming 
villages inhabited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of 
Millet will visit Barbizon. 

Sceaux (return-fares, 2 fi\ 20c, 1 fr. 40c, 1 fr. 10c) 
is a beautiful hill-town, with a delicious Park and 
the Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire 
wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatillon 
was the scene of many combats during the siege. 

Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat 
every 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and 
burned by the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie 
Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the- 
parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace (where 
the Prussians had a 26-gun battery) ; noble trees. T he 
walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming. 

To Orleans, Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr. 
80 c, 21 fr. 60 c, 15 fr. 80 c. ; 145| M.>. Orleans. 
(Hotel a" Orleans ; Be Lolret), founded by the Romans, 
on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant Cathedral, 
the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe since the 
Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double 
aisles ; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the 
bronze replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc 
made by Princess Marie, the Museum, and the Mairie. 
Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur- 
gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the largest 
in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870. 
Blois {Hotel d'Anr/leterre) has a stately old Castle-, 
for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine 
old houses in the town. 12 Mi. (2 hrs.) hence, by 



1 98 AMBOISE. — TOURS. — DIJON. 

omnibus, is the grand, many-towered, and historic 
Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and stiD 
in the Bourbon family. From Onzain stat. it is 
1 M. to the Chateau de Chaumont, a high-towered 
hill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived ; Car- 
dinal d'Amboise was born ; the Prince de Conde was 
imprisoned • and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M. 
beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched 
on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In the gardens 
is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone- 
carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceausp 
built by Francis I., inhabited by Diana de Poi- 
tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resort 
of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It, is still in 
perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours 
{Hotel de PUnioers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the 
Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe- 
dral, founded in 1170 ; Episcopal Palace ; many famous 
schools ; a Museum with 200 paintings ; a fine Public 
Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old 
Cathedral), beneath one of ^hich the wife of Charle- 
magne was buried. Many American and English 
families reside here. See Plessis les Tours, the home 
of Louis XL 

For other excursions from Paris see local guides. 

Routes from Paris to Switzerland. 

Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering SwiV 
zerland. 

From Paris to Geneva, by Dijon and Macon. — In 11 
hrs., by express train (distance, 388 £ M. ; fares, 76 fr. 
75 c. , 47 f r. 30 c. , 30 f r. 85 c). Many stop at Macon over 
night. T)ijoii( Hotel du Jura, near the sta. de la Cloche, 
Bourgogne), (50.000 inhab. , is in the wine-growing dis- 



MACON - BELFORT - RHEIMS 199 

trict. See Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now 
a town-hall, with very interesting museum ; the Castle, 
built by Louis XI. ; the Burgundian-Gottiic Ch. of Notre 
Dame (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon 
{Hotel de V Europe) is an important rly. junction (good 
buffet). Fine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. 
At Amberieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at 
Culoz for Aix-les-Bains, Chambery, and Turin. Near 
here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de V Eel-use, the 
key to the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse 
a picturesque mt. country to Geneva. 

From Paris to Switzerland, via Pontarlier (fares 
from Paris to Berne, 63 fr. 15 c, 50 fr. 85 c, 37 fr. 
25 c). Same route as previous one to Dijon. From 
Pontarlier the route leads up through the mts. to Berne ; 
the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from 
Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr. 
80 c, 35 fr.). 

From Paris to Basle, by Troy.es, Chawnonf, Vesoul, and 
Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 
3 870, and thence either through Alsace, touching at 
Mulhouse, or by Belle to Basle. 

From Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, and 
Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c). The interesting towns on 
this route are Meaus (Hotel ales 3 Rois), 25 M. from 
Paris, in a ioveiy situation on the Manic Superb 
Gothic Cathedral of iSi. Ktienne, with Monuments oj 
Bosswt (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip oj 
Castille. Clulteau Thierry was the birthplace of La- 
fontaine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3fr. 70c.) to 
Rheims)H6tel Lion (TOr; Grand; Commerce), city of 
105, OtK) inhab. In its cathedral the kings of France 
have been crowned. See magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. 
of St. Remi, founded by Clovis in 6rh century; and 
Cathedral, built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest 



200 SEDAN. — TOUL. — NANCY. — THE VOSGES. 

hi. Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high ; filled 
with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose- 
windows and interesting Treasury. Charles VII. was 
crowned here ; Joan of Arc standing by his side. The 
Hotel cle Ville contains a tine public library. Ely. to 
Sedan {Hotel de la Croix d'Or), where MacMahon's 
army of 80,000 men surrendered. 

Beyond Epernay on t he main line is Chalons-sur- 
Marne ; and Bar-le-Duc (Hotel du Cygne). Statues 
of Marshal Oudinot and Gen. Excelmans ; monument of 
the Prince of Orange. Toul, on the Moselle, is a for- 
tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy ( Grand; 
Americain; de Paris), the old capital of Lor- 
raine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large 
Cathedral, an interesting Museum (in the Hotel de 
Ville), a splendid new Prefecture, and a fine speci- 
men of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of the Dukes 
of Lorraine. JVotre Dame de Bon-Secours contains 
the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived 
in Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See 
triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of 
Thiers, Gattot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the 
gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur- 
gundy, close to which was found the body of 
Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle (1477). 
Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts« 
and down to Strasbourg, 



ST. QUENTIN, — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201 



BELGIUM. 

WE now invite your attention to the route from 
Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium, 
our advice being that it is well to see portions of Bel- 
gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland 
and Italy. 

The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is 
from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Maubeuge, and 
Mons (time, 6| hrs. ; fares, 36 fr. 20 c, 27 fr. 20 c, 
18 fr. 90 a). You pass through St. Denis ; Chantilly ; 
Creil ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manu- 
facturing centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifi- 
cent City Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries ; through 
the valley of the Sambre to Maubeuge and thence to 
Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Hotel Couronne) 
had a castle built by Julius Caesar. It is the centre 
of a great coal-mining country. Splendid interior of 
the Cathedral of St. Waudru (1450-1589) and Hotel 
de Ville (1458). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards. 
At Malplaque't, 3 M. S. E., Marlborough defeated the 
French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons 
jttid Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Notre 
Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reach- 
ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule's towers. 

Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses 
Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c, 
29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai {Hotel de Flandre) is 
an important place de guerre, and has an interesting mu- 
seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong 
old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here 
is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- 
ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through a 



203 LILLE - NAMUR - LIEGE 

fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where the 
French won a great victory over the Austrians itf 
1792. 

There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghev-t b} 
Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 lirs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c. f 
28 fr. 25 c). Lille (Hotel de V Europe), a manufactur- 
ing town of 188,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress oit 
the river Deule. St. Catherine's Ch. has an altar-piece 
by Rubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col- 
lection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the 
great square is a column commemorative of the Aus- 
trian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrie.r, killed at 
Paris in 1848. Roubaix, 5 M. beyond, is a great 
woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inhab. * 
production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the- I?reiLc£ 
frontier, is a factory -town. 

Prom London one may go via Calais to Brussels 
by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 80 c, 
15 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m. 
you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £2 11 s., £1 18 s.) 

From, Paris to Liege, via Charleroi, is 228^ M. (ex- 
press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 21 fr. 
35 a). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne 
(fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 20 c.)- Charle- 
roi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium. 
The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in 
coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times 
on the way to Namur, a pretty fortified town, 
of Roman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. 
It has several spacious squares, and a Renaissance 
Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated 
sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by 
Louis XIV. in person. Archaeological Museum worth 
visiting. Prom Namur you may go to Luxembourg. 

Liege (d' 'Angleterre ; de VTJnivws ; Chemin de 



BELGIUM. 203 

Fer; Zte5Wr?<?).theFlemish Luick and German Lilttich, 
has 140,000 inhab., and is picturesquely situated on 
the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recital of the 

striking events in its history. This town, " the Shef- 
field of Belgium," is noted for its weapon- factories, 
and one quarter is given up to workshops. The Chs. 
of St. Jacques, St. Paid, St. Martin, St. Croix (10th 
century), St. Barthelemy , as well as the Cathedral St. 
Paul, should be seen. The Choir of the cathedral 
dates from the 13th century. The splendid Gothic 
Palais de Justice (described in Quentin Durward) was 
the palace of the prince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by 
Cardinal de la Marck, a relative of the " Wild Boar 
of the Ardennes." See Archaeological Museum ; Hotel 
deVille; University (library, 100,000 vols.) ; the Com- 
munal Museum; the Citadel, with grand views; the Royal 

Cannon - foundry. The environs have beautiful 

scenery. 

The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region 
to Verviers (15| M.), a modern city of woollen-factories ; 
thence to Aix-la-ChapeJle. From Liege you may visit 
Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine (Bole/ des Pains; 
D'Anglelerre), a famous watering-place. The waters 
(used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. 8 M. 
beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line (\ hr.) 
to Spa {Hotel de Flandre ; D 'Orange ; De York ; Des 
Pays Pas; Grand Hotel Britannique ; Casino, Rue 
Royale), one of the oldest of European watering-places. 
The climate is remarkably fine, although exposed to 
sudden variations, dangerous for consumptives. The 
waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should be taken 
daily, and the cure demands 6-8 weeks. Season, May 
15-Oct. 15. 20,000 visitors come here annually. The 
village (6,000 inhab.) is in a pretty glen, among" wooded 
hills and scenery famous for beauty. 



204 LUXEMBOURG. — BRUSSELS. 

From Namur you may go to Luxembourg and Treves, 
and thence make a delightful excursion down the Mo- 
selle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from 
Liege (109f M. in 5-6 hrs.) to Luxembourg. 

Luxembourg, the famous fortress, the capital of the 
grand duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of 
London in 1867. It is very picturesquely situated 
on a rocky plateau, with precipices on 3 sides. The 
Alzette valley is divided by a fortified rock called the 
Bock, on which is the ancient Melmina Tover. See 
Cathedral, Hotel de Ville, Archaeological Mua^uvk* 

Rlys. hence to Treves or Metz, by TJiionvPle. 

Brussels and Environs. 

Brussels {Hotel Metropole ; De Flandre ; Orand ; 
De Vienne; Be V Europe; MengeUe ; Hollar*4e; De 
8axe; de VEmpereur), the capital of Belgium, has 
(including suburbs) 475,000 inhab. To appreciate 
Brussels, read the histories of the old tawn, — 
the terrible period of the Spanish domination', the 
riots and bombardments in the 17th century , the 
annexation to France, and the union with and ^ces- 
sion from the Low Countries. Brussels stand 15 , on 
an undulating plain. It is divided into the Upper and 
Lower Towns. On the hill are the palaces, the Park, 
and the fine Rue Boyale. Below, in the picturesque 
older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels 
is on the line between the Walloons and Flemings; 
and you will hear French and Flemish spoken, the 
former prevailing. Go first to the Grande Place, the 
ancient forum of Brussels. Note the exquisite facade 
of the Hotel de Ville (built 1402-43), and the stately 
spire, 370 ft. high, at whose top is a colossal -statue 
of St. Michael. "Entrance fee, 50 c. Beautiful tapes- 
tries and paintings in the Salle_des Fetes, etc. Opposite 



lis the Maison da Roi, btiiit by Charles V. ( 15 14-25). 
There were imprisoned Counts Egmont and Hoorne, 
and in front they were decapitated, in 1568. Many 
of picturesque houses on the Place were built by the 
Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held 
here in the 15th century. The famous Mannihin 
fountain is back of the Hotel de Ville. The Galerie 
St. -Hubert is one of the finest arcades in Europe. 
In the steep Hue Mpntagne de la Cour are the finest 
shops. At the top is the Place Royale. Go first to 
the Museum (Place du Musee). On the left is the 
great Palais de V Industrie, with statue of Prince 
Charles of Lorraine. The Museum of Painting (open 
10-5 in summer) contains 13 canvases by Rubens; 
many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rembrandts. The 
Ancient Museum is rich in tapestries. In the 
Modem Museum there are many good pictures , 
Next take the Rue de la Regence, ending at 
the new Palais de Justice, which covers more 
ground than St. Peter's at Rome, and cost 
$8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by is the Palais 
des Beaux-Arts, with fine statues and groups ; the 
Palace of the Comte de Flandres ; the Place du 
Petit Sablon, with monuments to Counts Egmont 
and Hoorne ; the Royal Conservatory of Music; 
and the Synagogue. Next, going by the Rue 
Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade 
(military music, 3-4^-, in summer); then to the 
King's Palace, simple, but well stocked with fine 
pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. 
When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.). 
Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park. 
The Pcdais des Academies is near the Park. 
This building, in Italian style, contains the 
Plaster Museum (free. 10-4) the Academies of 
letters, arts and sciences, and medicine: anri 



206 STE. GUDULE.-WATERLOO. 

a noble concert hall, with paintings of episodes in 
Belgian history. 

Ste. G-udule, the great Gothic Church (open all 
day ; to climb the towers, 1 person, 2fr. ; 2-6 persons, 
3 fr.), was founded in the 11th century; choir and 
transept, 13th century; towers and nave, 14th. The 
carved pulpit, made in 1699, represents the Expulsion 
from Paradise. Superb stained-glass windows; and 
many rare old tombs. 

Other Object* of Interest. — Place des Martyrs, with 
monument to those who perished in the Revolution of 
1830; Place des Barricades, and statue of Vesalius, 
the anatomist ; Place du Luxembourg, statue of Cocke- 
rill ; Place de la Monnaie, and Opera House ; Bourse ; 
Rue Neuve ; handsome new boulevards around the old 
city ; Observatory ; hospitals ; National Bank ; Musee 
Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter) ; 
Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal ; precious 
paintings in Aremberg Palace ; Botanical Garden ; 
Bois de la Cambre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels. 

At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste. Marie, where 
members of the royal family are buried. In the cem° 
etery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Koyal Palace, 
the King's favorite residence. Monument to Leo- 
pold I. — Manor of Bouchout, where dwells Carlotta, 
sx-Empress of Mexico. 

Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine 1'Al- 
feud, and walk (^ hr.) to the Butte du J Aon, or to 
Waterloo, and go over to the battle-field by omnibus ; 
or you can go b} r mail-coach from the Place Royalc, at 
9.30 a.m. (round-trip, 7fr. ; coachman, 1 fr.). Guides, 
Belgian and English, on the field (fees, 2-4 fr.). Water- 
loo is a Flemish village. The Mt. St. Jean and the 
Butte du Lion, on which is a pyramid and a colossal 
lion, should be visited. Muser/m at Hotel du Musee. 



BELGIUM. 207 

Louvain {Hotel de Suede ; Bu Nord), population 
35,000, may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr. (fares, 
2 fr. 30 c.,'l fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 15 c). This was one of 
the great weaving-centres; but after 1383 the weavers 
went to England. The Hotel de Ville is one of the 
marvels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was 
built 1418-63. Exterior lavishly decorated with stat- 
ues. The great Gothic Ch. of St. Pierre (open, 
except 2-4) has a line tabernacle and many remark- 
able paintings. Les Halles, built 1317, and the vast 
prison, should be seen. The University, founded in 
1426, is Roman Catholic, and has 1,000 students 
(formerly 6,000). 

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc. 

You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Antwerp or Brus- 
sels ; or, if you come directly from England to Ostend, 
you can go through Bruges and Ghent to Brussels. Fares, 
Dover to Ostend, 15 s", 10 s.; 68 M ; time, 4-6 hrs. 
Fares, Ostend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 C, 6 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 65 c. 

Ostend (Continental; de la Plage; de V Ocean; Vic- 
toria; Lion d'Or) is the second maritime .town in 
Belgium (20,000 inh.) and the summer residence of 
the king. It receives about 18,000 visitors annually. 
Renowned sea-baths ; magnificent stone dyke, | M. 
long; monumental Cursaal; Leopold Park, filled with 
cafes. Celebrated oyster-parks here. From Ostend 
it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 35 c, 90 c.) to 

Bruges (Hotel de Flandre; de V Univers; Da Com- 
merce; St. Amand), 45,000 inh., on the grand canals 
to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam, 
called the " Venice of th e N orth ," because seamed with 
canals. Handsome rly. stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. The 
13th century was the epoch of Bruges' greatest pros- 



208 BRUGES. 

perity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic 
League, and the chief commercial city of Europe. Its 
decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the 
Fleur de Ble Inn of which Longfellow sings. There also 
stood the house in which Maximilian was confined in 
the revolt of 1488 ; and opposite is the home of Charles 
II. of England, in his exile. The Cathedral (open 
daily, except 12-4 ; opened then for small fee) stands 
on the site of one built in 1358, and has a great nimi- 
hp.v of fine old Flemish pictures (fee to climb the tower, 
1 fr.). Noire Dame contains some veiled paintings, 
shown for a fee of \ fr. The choir and nave date from 
1186 ; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick 
tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, 1 fr.). Hand- 
some bronze doors ; exquisite marble group of the 
Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, over the altar. 
In chapel on r. (1 fr.), sumptuous ancient tombs of 
Charles the Bold and his daugliter Marie. Carven 
pulpit. Large collection of paintings. 

The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one of the 
quaint monuments of the Communes, is 350 ft. high, 
(fee, -|fr. below, |fr. above). The chimes (48 bells) 
play every quarter-hour. — The Hotel de Ville (1377) 
is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers.- — The Hospital 
St. Jean, "W. of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 
9-12, and 1-6, ^fr.), is renowned for its marvellous 
paintings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these. 
The Ohdsse de Sle. Ursule is the best. The Academy of 
Fine Arts (I fr.) has -many remarkable pictures by the 
old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved monu- 
ments of Spanish families. — The Chape/le du St. Sang 
was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial that the 
Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Theodoric of Flan- 
ders, with some drops of the Saviour's blood. Portal 
ftnd staircase, Flamboyant Gothic. The. Palais de 



BELGIUM. 209 

Justice (rebuilt, 1722) has a carved chimney -piece-. 
(1528-29) in the Court Room (4fr). Bruges, though, 
decadent and melancholy, is celebrated for pretty 
girls and decorated old houses. See statues of 
Memling and Jan van Eyck. From Bruges it is £ 
hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c, 2fr. 55c, lfr. 70c) to 

Ghent (Hotel Royal; de la Poste; de Vie?me), a 
city of 145,000 inhab.. on the river Scheldt. The 
town is divided into 26 islands, and has 88 bridges.. 
The history of Ghent is romantic It became the capi- 
tal of Flanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin 
had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under 
Jacques van Arteveld®, etc., ruled this region for 2 
centuries, and often came to blows among themselves, 
as on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a 
terrible street-battle. In the 15th century there were 
40,000 weavers ; and the woollen workers aloue fur- 
nished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles V. was 
born in Ghent in 1500. From the Spanish domina- 
tion dates the decline. 11,000 inhab. emigrated at 
once to England and Holland. Louis XIV. took the 
town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napo- 
leon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise. 

Notice the Marclie du Vendredi, a great square 
surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the politi- 
cal forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van Artevelde. 
In the Cathedral of St. Bacon (open daily, except 
12-1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in 
1228 ; the noble nave aud transepts (1533) ; and the 
tower, built in 1533-34 (416 steps ; fee, 2 fr., 1-4 
persons). See the picture of "The Adoration of the 
Spotless Lamb," by the brothers Van Eyck. Al- 
though more than 400 years old, it preserves its bril- 
liancy of coloring. Here also is a chef-d'mivre of 
Rubens. Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament 



210 GHENT. — MECHLIN. 

the choir. The Hotel de Ville, built 1481-1628, is a 
remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E. 
facade is very striking. The Belfry, built 1183-1.339, 
whose bells assembled the citizens, is 386 ft. high, and 
commands an extensive prospect over Flanders (ascent, 
2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- 
land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is 
a community of women who are not bound by vows, 
but live by their own labors or resources.. Tin's insti- 
tution of secular saints had its origin in the 7th century. 
The old Grand Beguinage formed a separate, quarter of 
the city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 convents 
and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many 
handsome Gothic houses, and a vast ch. 600 women 
live here, and make rich laces. See St. Jacques Ch. ; 
St. Nicholas and St. Michael, crowded with picture s ; 
St. Pierre, with rare old paintings ; the imposing Paliis 
de Justice ; the University, with a splendid mar)le 
rotunda, and a library in old Baudeloo Monastery 
(100,000 vols.) ; and the Museum {\ fr.). The Oudehvg 
is a remnant of the old palace of the Counts of Flandeis, 
w T here John of Gaunt was born, 1340. On Marche 
du Vehdredi is an old cannon, such as stone missi'es 
were fired from. See Botanical Garden (Ghent is 
called ' ' The Queen of Flowers "); Zoological Garden 
(fee, lfi\); ruins of Abbey of St. Bavon. Fares from 
Ghent to Brussels, 4fr. 35c, 3fr. 25c, 2fr. 20c 

From Brussels to Antwerp trains run in 1 hr., pass- 
ing Malines, or Mechlin (La Cigogne; Beffer; de 'a 
Couronne), a city of 40,000 inhab., the ecclesiastical 
capital of Belgium In 1572-80 the town was saohod 
and burned by the Spaniards, the troops of the Pri i to, 
of Orange, and the English. See the Cathedral of i. 'L 
Bomb old, ,be gun in 1451. Imposing interior and car r ;d 
pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a spleuiUd 



BELGIUM. 211 

ehime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The 
Crucifixion, by Van Dyek. In Notre Dame is 
Rubens's Miraculous Draught of Fishes (1 fr.). In St. 
Jean is a tine Triptych by Rubens (iir.). Mechlin is 
renowned for its beautiful lace. 

Antwerp {±tOiei bl. Antoine; Grand; Commerce; 
du Ehin; d' Avgleterre; Be V Europe; Grand La~ 
boureur ; Be la Paix) is one of the most flourishing com- 
mercial towns in Europe (240,000 inhab.), and one of 
the quaintest and most replete with historical and artis- 
tic interest. Napoleon I. wished to make Antwerp 
a great maritime arsenal, and built vast docks; 
but the Antwerp jjeople nave constructed others 
yet more vast. Climb the Catuedral Tower (75 a), 
and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over the Low 
Countries from Breda to Brussels. The Cathedral 
(built 1352-1530) is i lie most imposing cli. in Belgium 
(open daily). When closed, ask porter for kevs 
(1 fr.). The majestic interior (384 ft. long, 130 
ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of col- 
umns. Choir built 1352-1411. Philip II. once held 
a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece here. 
In 1566 the Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. (See 
Motley's " Dutch Republic," for romantic episodes in 
Antwerp's history) In the r. transept is Rubens' s 
Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the 1. 
transept is Rubens's The Elevation of the Cross. Above 
the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens. 
See stone outside with the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, 
and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The mag- 
nificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; the 
chimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to 
Mechlin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron 
weU-canopv made by Quentin Matsya St. Paul, 
St. Andrew, and St. Antoine contain rare old Flemish 
paintings. The Ch. of St. Jacques (built 1429-1507) 



212 ROTTERDAM. 

contains the tomb of Rubens, and many good pictures 
and sculptures (small fee). St. Augustine has pictures 
by Rubens, Van Dyck, etc. The Hotel deVille, built 
in 1561-65. contains splendid mural paintings (dons 
in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys. Many old Guild houses 
(1513-79) near by. Visit the beautiful new Gothic 
Bourse; the Palais de Justice ; and the House of 
Rubens (Rue Rubens), where the painter died. The 
Museum (open daily, 9-5) is the best in Belgium: 700 
paintings here, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks 
(catalogue, 3| f r. ). For notable private collections 
inquire here. The new Boulevards, on the site of the 
walls; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses; the 
Park: and the statues of Rubens, King Leopold I., 
Van Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Cita- 
del and fortifications are interesting. 

Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice 
weekly, in 9 hours; fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 3 fr. 20 c. 'To 
London, Sun., Wed., and Fri., 34 fr. To London 
via Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 c. Regular 
departures for all the great ports of the world. 



HOLLAND. 



rpHE tourist may very pleasantly and profitably 
"^ spend 2-3 days in Holland. Go from Ant- 
werp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr. 45c, 7 fr. 70c, 4 fr, 
90c ) to 

Rotterdam (3Iaas; Leygraaf; Weimar; Coomans; 
de Hollande; de V Europe; Victoria), the second city 
in Holland (200,000 inhabitants). The Maas is here 
navigable for the largest ships; and the scene on the 
quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many 
canals. The steamboats land passengers near the 



HOLLAND 213 

Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India 
House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rot- 
terdam builds many ships; has a heavy trade with 
Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and 
other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point for the 
departure of emigrants for America, The canals are 
bordered with trees, and the suburbs are pleasing. 
The Hoogstraat, the Willeniskade, the new quay, are 
worth seeing. The Museum (open daily, 11-3 ; % fr. ) 
has fine examples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Durer, 
Wouvermans, and Ary Scheffer. In the Groole-Kerk 
is a noble organ ; also monuments of several famous 
admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 teet high 
(60 c). The Old CJi., the S. Ch., the new Town 
Hall, the Exchange, the Botanical Gardens, the 
Zoological Gardens, may be easily seen in an after- 
noon, The statue of Erasmus stands in the Groote- 
Markt; and on the house which was his birthplace 
is the inscription, Hcec est parva domus, magnus qua 
natus Erasmus. The New Park is W. of tiie town. 
Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume 
of the peasantry and the singular neatness of the 
houses. From Rotterdam to the Hague takes -§ hi*. 
(fares. 1 fl. 20 c, 1 fl. 60 c). On this route is 
Schiedam, renowned for its distilleries (see Hotel de 
Ville and Exchange) ; and Delft (Hotel Lubr edits), 
a very ancient Dutch town, once famous for porce- 
lain, but now dull and dignified. The staircase on 
which William of Orange was shot (1584) is still 
shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked 
for Plymouth, America (1620). In the Oude Kerk, 
see the tomb of Admirals Van Tromp (1653), Hem, 
etc. In the JVieuwe Kerk (1412-76) is the magnificent 
Mausoleum of William of Orange. 

The Hague (Hotel Bellecue; d.eslndes; de V Europe; 
Vieux Doelen ; Central), beautifully situated (Oude 
DotL-dn), the capital of Holland (156,000 in hab ), is 



214 THE HAGUE. — SCHEVENINGEN. 

in summer one of the most charming places in Europe. 
It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the character- 
istics of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and 
winding brooks and canals — appear. The Museum (open 
free daily, 9-3 ; Sat., 10-1 ; catalogue, 50 c.) contains 
the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and 
many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter's famous 
Bull, Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, the Presenta- 
tion in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of Wil- 
liam the Silent (184S). In the Buitenhof, statue of 
William II. Opposite the Royal Palace, equestrian 
statue of Prince William I. See the Marine Museum, 
with its wonderful collection of models for ships ; the 
Royal Library (100,000 vols.) ; the collection of 40,000 
coins and medals ; the Groote Kerk, with its beautiful 
tombs ; the Kloster Kerk ; the New C/i., where Spinoza 
is buried. The ponderous old Binnenhof Palace and 
the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest. 
The Grand Council now holds its sessions in the an- 
cient torture-room. Beyond the Buitenhof you reach 
the gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt was 
slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand Na- 
tional Monument (built 1863-69), covered with statues. 
The national buildings are plain and substantial. On 
the Noordeinde is the Royal Palace, and the old Mu~ 
seum of King William II. Prince Frederick's Palace 
is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa 
called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with 
treasures of art (fee, 1 fl ). From the Hotel Bellevue, 
steam tramway (2-|— 3 M.) to the pretty seaside resort 
of Scheveningen (Grand Hotel des Bains, prices mod- 
erate), a fishing-village among the dunes. In summer, 
the fashionable world of North Germany, Holland, and 
England, and many people from the 3., assemble here 
Beautiful sea views and fine forests. Ley den and Haar* 



HOLLAND. 215 

lew. may be visited between The Hague and Amster* 
dam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 fl., 3 n. 5c., 2 fl. ; to 
Leyden, 80 c., 60 c. , 40 c.; from Leyden to Haarlem, 
lflo. 40 c.; 1 fl., 10 c., 70c). 

Leyden {Hotel Levcdag ; Lion oVOr ; Central: 
40,000 inhab., famous for the great siege (see Mot- 
ley). It possessed 100,000 weavers. Leading ob- 
jects of interest; the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the 
Natural History Museum (open daily, free), with the 
finest cabinet of anatomy in Europe (open daily, 2-5, 
except Sun); the Museum of Antiquities (open free 
Sun., 12-7, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 11-4) ; the Jap- 
anese Museum (open dai!} T , 50 c) ; the Numismatic 
(open daily, ■ 12-3) ; the University (600 students), 
founded after the siege, with excellent observatory ; 
Library, 3,000 oriental MSS. (open Mon., Wed., 
and Sat., 12-3) ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies 
plants) ; and the old Castle of Drusus. The Hczel de 
Ville has many inscriptions relative to the siege of 
1574. 

Haarlem (Lion d'Or; Funckler ; Leeuwerik) is 
a town of 28,000 inhab. The siege by the Span- 
iards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are de- 
scribed in Motley's picturesque history. The Cathe- 
dral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the nave. The 
vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. and 
Thurs., 1-2 ; at other times 12 fl. for a party. A^isit 
the interior. Marble crypt under the organ. From 
the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Museum ; 
the statue of Coster, inventor of printing with metal 
types ; Coster's House ,• the Museum of Natural His- 
tory ; and the house of the rich banker, Hope. 

Amsterdam (Amstel; PaysBas: Old Bible; Brack's 
Doelen ; Bonded; Americain ; Palais Royal) is a 
city of 400,000 inhab., named from the Amstel, 
an inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicating with 
the North Sea by the N". Holland Canal, "50 M 



216 AMSTERDAM. 

long, the most gigantic undertaking at the time ever 
executed. It commences opposite Amsterdam, and ex- 
tends to the Helder and the Texel ; cost $5,000,000. 
The town is buiit upon piles driven into the sand. Its 
canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. The 
finest view is from the Hooge Sluys. Near by is St. 
Anthony's Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488-1585). The 
Palace is a huge stone structure, standing on 13,695 
piles. Near it are the Bam, the memorial of 1831, the 
Exchange, the Post-Office, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Sea- 
man's Club. From the tower, one has a magniU- 
cent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculp- 
tures on the palace front. The Throne Hall, ths 
Grand Hall, decorated with trophies, and the Au- 
dience Hall, are remarkable (fee, 50 c). The Botan- 
ical and Zoological Gardens (latter, 75 c.) are equal^ to 
those of any other city. The principal museum (free 
daily, 10-3), the Trippenhuis, has the best collection of 
paintings in Holland (get catalogue). Note the works 
of Rembrandt. This and the Vanderhoof collection are 
now in Ryks Museum. The Oxide Ma?menhuis is open, 
10-4. The Fodor Museum has very good French and 
Butch pictures. The Historical Gallery is devoted to 
episodes in Dutch history (open daily, 50 c. ; catalogue 
75 c). See Vos Museum ; statue of Rembrandt ; monu- 
ment to Van Spevk ; Blind Asylum ; Zeemanshoop 
(Sailors' Hope), a club with 2,000 members ; Normal 
School of Navigation ; Sailors Home; great range of 
state warehouses, on Entrepot Dock ; Park, good music 
on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished ; Jewish 
quarter; Cellular Prison; and Crystal Palace. Am- 
sterdam is the cleanest city in Europe; on a bright 
Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the 
Fountain, commemorating the events in 1830-31 In 
the old ch on the Dam, monument to Yan.Ruyter 



UTRECHT. 217 

Pleasant excursions to Barmen, and other pretty sub- 
urban towns. Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean 
village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the 
Great worked when learning the shipwright's trade. 
Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares, 1 fl. 
70 c, 1 fl. 25 c, 85 c.) from Amsterdam to 

Utrecht {Kasfoel van -Ani.werp.en.; Pays Bas ; de 
V Europe; de la Station), the Roman Trajechim, and 
the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble 
Cathedral here, constructed in the 13th century, 
and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. 
The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower, 
321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the 
church, fine organ and magnificent mausoleums. 
South of the cathedral is the University, founded 
in 1636. very rich : 600 students ; splendid li- 
brary and remarkable Museum of -Natural His- 
tory. The Palace of the Popes, founded by 
Adrian VI., with a statue of St. Salvador, is now 
the palace of the provincial government. Adrian was 
born iu Utrecht. In the Stadhuls are a few pictures. 
Fine new boulevards around the city. 

From Utrecht you can begin your journey up the 
Rhine. Take rail to Diisseldorf, passing Arnkem, thj 
Arenacum of the ancients. Th; Romans encamped 
here 70 years B.C., and it was for u long time the resi- 
dence of th Dukes < Guelders. See the Cathedral, 
with tomb of Count jlgmont. Tower, 333 ft. high; 
wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has 9 fine 
court-room. Emmerich {Hotel de Hollande) is the 
firs* German to w&. 



218 DUSSELDORF. — COLOGNE. 



GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. 

FROM Utrecht to Emmerich, 4 fl. 50 c, 3 fl. 40 c, 
2 fl. 25 c. ; 54^ M. From Emmerich f o Uussel- 
dorf, fares, 7 mks. 60 pf., 5 mks. 70 pf., 3 mks. 80 pf. ; 
to Cologne, II mks. 20 pf., 8 mks. 40 pf., 5 mks. 
60 pf. ; to Eraukfort, 28 mks. 80 pf., 21 mks. 20 pf., 
13 mks. 50 pf; 

Diisseldorf (Breidenbacher Hof; Royal; Heck; 
Ro misc her Kaiser), a, city o£ 210,000 inhab., is the prin- 
cipal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts 
was founded in 1767; it occupies Renaissance build- 
ing erected m 1879; contains lecture-halls, studios, 
etc. Here, also, are the remains of the famous 
Gallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools 
(open Mom, Wed., Fri., and Sat., 12-1). Handsome 
Rhine Bridge; Hofgarten,nexl to Pempelfurtergarten 
(now Malkasten Club), haunts of Goethe and Herder. 
Oh. of St. Lambert contains the tombs of the last 
Dukes of Cleve and Berg, and a good picture by 
Achenbach. St. Andrew'' s is very interesting. In the 
hall of the Realschule is a freize by Bendemann. In 
the Courts of Justice see Schadow's "Heaven, Hell, 
and Purgatory." Many fine modern paintings in the 
Kunsthalle. See statues of Elector John William III., 
Cornelius, Emperor William I., Bismarck. Museum 
of Industry and Art will repay visit. Several exhi- 
bitions of pictures in the town; fees, 50 pf. It is -|-f 
hr. by rly., or by boat 5 hrs., to 

Cologne (Hotel da Nord; Disch; Koluer Hof; 
Victoria; Du Dome; Ernst), the sixth town in the 
German Empire (360,000 inhab.), and an important 
garrison. Streets are dark, narrow and mediaeval. 
Many houses date from the 13th century. 70 wide 



COLOGNE. 219 

streets have lately been laid out. Cologne was founded 
by the Ubii, when Agrippa transferred them to the 1. 
bank of the Rhine ; and colonized by Roman veterans 
when Germanicus held command, as Colonic! Agrippina. 
It was the residence of the legates of Lower Germany. 
Constantine the Great built a bridge here in 308, 
afterwards destroyed by the Normans. Prom the 5th 
century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Exten- 
sive Roman remains here. 

The Cathedral, the grandest Gothic building in the 
world, was begun in 1248. The choir was consecrated 
in 1322, and the nave in 1388; but about 1500 the 
work ceased, and in 1795 the French troops used the 
half-ruinous ch. for a hay-magazine. Construction was 
resumed in 1823, and more than $3,000,000 spent 
upon it between 1812 and 1880, when it was consecrated, 
with imposing ceremonies. The superb W.fagacle and 
lofty portals are flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned 
by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were 
placed iu the S. tower in 1447; and in 1874 a new 
30-ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A 
forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles. 
The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. ; height of 
nave, 145 ft. There are 4 aisles ; and the triple-aisled 
transepts extend to the imposing N. and S. portals. 
There are 56 vast columns inside. The stained win- 
dows in the N. aisle dare from 1508-9 ; those in the 
S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848. 
The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12 
Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls, ancient stained 
windows, modern fresces of angel-choirs, modern tap- 
estries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tombs 
of the archbishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The 
reliquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings contains 
the bones of the Magi, carried to Constantinople hf 



220 COLOGNE. 

the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and presented 
by Barbarossa 1o Cologne's archbishop in 1164. Tiijs 
heart of Marie de Medicis is buried here. The Library 
contains Hildebald's precious MSS. ; and many deeply 
interesting relics are in the Treasury and in the Archu 
episcopal Museum, S. of the ch. See inner and outer 
galleries of the choir. The ch. is open all day, but 
walking about is not allowed during service. 

Over the rly. -bridge are equestrian statues of Fred- 
crick William IV. and William I. W. of the Cathedral 
is the great Gothic Museum (open 9-4, 50 pf.) with 
many hundred paintings, and very interesting Roman 
and mediaeval relics. In the adjacent Minorites' Ch., 
Duns Scotus is buried. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. 
St. Gereon's Ch. (fee, lmk.), contains the bones of the 
Theban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Diocletian. 
Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir. 
Curious crypt. In St. Ursula is the tomb of that 
unhappy princess, who, with her 11,000 virgin com- 
panions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from 
Rome. The ch. (5th century; restored) has a Gothic 
portal. You are shown the bones of the martyrs in all 
parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, 1-| mk ) is St. 
Ursula's Reliquary. Great Si. Martin has a majestic 
tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, given by Pope 
Leo II. Sta. Maria '-1 r m '-Capitol, consecrated in 1049 
by Pope Leo IX., is an imposing Romanesque ch. St. 
Peter has an altar-piece by Rubens. ot . Cecilia dates 
from 1200. The Apostles' Ch. (1200) has a picturesque 
choir. St. Cunibert (1248) has rich frescos and glass. 

See the Gurzenieh; the Roman Tower ; the house in 
which Marie cle Medicis died in exile and poverty; the 
Monument to Frederick William III., surrounded by 
statues of statesmen and generals who relieved the 
Rhine from French domination j and the bronze statue 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 221 

of Bismarck. The Rathhaus (13th century) has the 
Lion's Court, and the quaint hall in which the first Diet 
of the Hanseatic League was held. See Botanic and 
Zoological Gardens, and the many "original and only" 
shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold. 

l|hr. from Cologne (fares, 6 inks., 4|mks., 3mks.), 
on the routes to Belgium and Paris, is Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle {Hotel Grand Monarque ; Nuellem ; Be VEm- 
pereur ; Belle Due ; Dragon cTOr), the Aaehen of the 
Germans and the Aquisgrannm of the Romans. This 
was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he 
died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the 
country N. of the Alps. 37 German emperors were 
crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were 
held here. The modern town is handsome, with the 
characteristics of a watering-place. The warm Sulphur 
Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonder- 
ful cures are still effected by them. The most impor- 
tant is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenbrunnen crowds 
assemble daily in summer to drink the waters. The 
Kurhaus has a superb concert-hall (fee, 50 pf.). In 
the Market-place is a fountain, with statue of Charle- 
magne. The great Cathedral is in two sections : the 
quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San 
Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796-804, 
and consecrated bf Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, 
in the best Gothic' style (1353-1413). The octagon 
contains many fine columns, brought from Rome and 
Ravenna; bronze doors, cast in 804; and the pulpit, 
rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry II. See 
the stained windows, designed by Cornelius ; and the 
14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was 
opened by Otho IIT. in 1000 ; and by Barbarossa in 
116,5 when the body was removed from the marble 
throne on which it was seated, and placed in a Parian 



222 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE — BONN. 

sarcophagus. The throne (afterwards used in thf 
coronation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are noxf 
in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are en- 
shrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of 
Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (Open 
daily., 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 inks, for 1-3 persons.) Notice the 
old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinets. Some of 
the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the 
infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years. 

The Rathhaus was built out of the debris of the pal- 
ace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). The Hall of 
the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble frescos. The Warriors* 
Monument commemorates the soldiers slain in .1866 and 
1870-71 . Suermondt Museum has some good picturps. 

Up the Rhine by Steamer, 

The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne to 
Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at 
Coblence. There is a rly. on either bank, but the steam- 
boat is preferable. If, however, you wish to go frojn 
Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 lirs. 
(fares, 12 mks., 9 mks., 6mks.). By steamboat (large 
and fine boats) the fares from Cologne to Coblence are 

3 mks. 60 pf., 2 mks. 40 pf. ; by the express boat the 
fare is 3 mks. 70 pf. From Coblence to Mayence, 3 mks. 
70 pf., 2-|mks. ; by express boat, '4| mks. Through 
tickets allow stopping off, but be careful to resume the 
journey by the boats of the same company. You can 
take rail from Cologne to Bonn (21 M. ; fares, 24- mks. , 
11- mks., 1 mk. 30 pf.); from Cologne to Coblence 
(7 mks. 70 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf., 3 mks. 90 pf.) ; from 
Coblence to Frankfort (10 mks. 40 pf., 6 mks. 90 pf., 

4 mks. 40 pf . ) 

Bonn (Q-oldener Stern, capital house; Du Nord; 
Kley; Royal; Rheineck) has a beautiful location. 



UP THE EHINE. 223 

just beyond, the banks become bold and pre- 
cipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream, 
begin. The University occupies the old castle, 
built in 17 1 7—30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. 
long. It has a library of 250,000 vols.; museums 
of Roman and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts 
(75 pf. each ; catalogues for sale). See bronze 
statue of Beethoven in the Miinsterplatz. The Ca- 
thedral, founded by the mother of Constantine, is a 
cruciform basilica, with two choirs and a high octagonal 
tower. Bronze statue of the Empress Helena inside, 
Beethoven's birthplace is in the Boimgasse. The Fojj- 
pelsdorfer Schloss, reached by a quadruple avenue ot 
horse-chest nuts |- M. long, contains a very large natural- 
history collection (fee, 75 pf.). Chemical Laboratory 
near by. The Anatomic, a noble edifice, finished in 
1S72, is not far off. Beyond Poppelsdorf is the Kreuz- 
berg, 400 it. high, on which is a eh. containing the 
Holy Staircase, built in imitation of that at Home, and 
to be mounted on the knees only. Bonn was the Cas-' 
tra Bonnensiu of Tacitus, a great Roman fortress. It 
has suffered terrible sieges. The Coblen.zerstras.se is very 
handsome. The ProDuicial Museum, and the House of 
Arndt are interesting. On the Aide Zoll is the Monument 
toArndt. In the cemetery are buried Niebuhrthe his- 
torian, Schlegel, Robert Schumann, Arndt, and Yoc 
Bunsen. 

Konigswinter {Hold d& V. Europe; Matter?/, ; 
Rieffel; Monopol), on the E bank of the Rhine, is 
the point whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The 
Draehenfels (916ft high) may be ascended don- 
key back, m carriages, or by cog-wheei rail- 
way. Half -way up is the far- viewing tower on 
the Hirschherg. To the W. is the Monument 
in memory of the events of 1813-15. The Castle 
stands near the Terrace (where w here is a good 



224 ROLANDSECK. — NONNENWERTH. 

hotel). It was built about 1100 by the first archbishop 
of Cologne, aud takes its name from a dragon slain 
there by Siegfried, the Niebelungen hero. The red 
wiue made from its vineyards is called Dragon s Blood. 
The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, after 
a long siege. Ruins still magnificent. Superb view 
of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs behind Remagen, 
Ober winter, the ruins of Rolandseck, Bonn, and Co- 
logne. See the cavern where the fabled dragon had 
his abode. An excursion may be made to the Oelberg, 
the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhine- 
land. Thence it is 1^ hr. to Heislerbach, an old Cis- 
tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of 
the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oel- 
berg, the Lowenburg (1,504 ft.), a castle where the 
Elector of Cologne had interviews with Melancthon 
before becoming a Protestant, may be reached. Fine 
view. Return from Heisterbach to Konigswinter in f hr. . 
by the Petersberg, whence good view. Konigswinter is 
near most charming scenery. 

The boat touches at Rolandseck (Bolel Roland- 
seek; Victoria; Decker; BeUevue), -£ hr above Ko- 
nigswinter. From restaurant at the railway sta- 
tion, fine view of the Seven Mts., and the Rhine 
*o Remagen. Rolandseck is a very popular sum- 
mer-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a basalt 
rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded 
by Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at 
Itoncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where 
stands the convent in which the beautiful Hildegarde 
is said to have taken the veil when she heard that 
Roland had perished in Spain, may be reached by a 
email boat (return-fare, 1 mk.). This convent is men- 
tioned in a document of the 12th century. It was sap- 
pressed in 1S02, reconsecrated in 1845, and closed 
ftgain \n 1876. See Bulwer's Pilgrims of the Rhine, 



UP THE EHINE. 225 

and Schiller's ballad of Bitter Toggenburg. At Rhein- 
breitbach (W. bank) is a large town, with towers, at 
the entrance of a valley filled with copper-mines. At 
Unkel (W. bank) the cliffs stand out into the bed of 
the stream, producing a rapid. Just above is 

Remagen (Hotel Furstenberg ; Koning von Preus- 
sen; Rhein; Anker), noticeable for its church on 
the Apollinarisberg (a hill to the N ), a pretty 
Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on 
on the site of an old pilgrimage-shrine of the Middle 
Ages. It was built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne 
Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces 
of modern German art (open 7 a.m. to 8 p m.; Sun. after 
10; fee, 30pf.). The legend states that when the Arch- 
bishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1164) 
with the bones of the Magi and the head of St. Apol- 
linaris, Bishop of Ravenna, his boat was stopped here, 
by some mysterious power, until the latter was placed 
in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman 
town (Rigomagns) , but lost its importance in the 
Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence, 
between bold basaltic hills, up the Valley of the Ahr, 
where 4.000 000 bots. of red wine are produced yearly. 
It is 7 M. (carriage, 4 mks. ) to the Baths of Neuenahr, 
a charming watering-place, with warm alkali springs,, 
used for lung and liver diseases. Ahrweiler, a quaint 
little walled town, has fine view from Calvarienberg. 
Ruined castles and pretty villages abound. 

Opposite Remagen, over Erpel (E. bank) is a basaltic 
cliff 642 ft. high. Linz (Weinstock) is an ancient 
town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of 
basalt, and a 13th century Romanesque eh., contain- 
ing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art. 
The adjacent hills have interesting basalt-quarries, 
and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and 
Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above 



226 HAMMEKSTEIN. — ANDERNACH. 

Linz, lately restored, lias an ancient round tower, and 4 
in the Knights' Hall, a collection of armor. Rheineck 
(W. bank), the boundary between the upper and lower 
Rhenish districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on the 
site (and with a tower) of the fortress of 1 he Rheinach 
family, founded in the 12th century. It may be visited 
from Brohl (| hr.), and has some fine paintings (fee, 
•50-75 pf.) and a superb view. It was sacked by the 
.French in 1G89 and by troops of Cologne in 1092. 
farther up, near Brohl, is Kammerstein, a 10th-cen- 
tury castle, where Henry IV. took refuge from his sons, 
and which was held, during the Thirty Years' War, by 
Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrainers. In 1660 
the Archbishop of Cologne destroyed this too powerful 
neighbor. Roman ruins 4 M. E. 

Andernach (Hotel Huckenbrucli ; Glocke), on the 
"W. bank, has narrow streets, ancient walls, a many- 
towered Romanesque ch. (1206), and a lofty watch- 
tower, built in 1414-68, and breached by French guns 
in 16S8. It was one of the 50 forts of Drusus ; re- 
capturea. from the Alemanni by Julian in 339 ; a 
royal Franconian residence in the 6th century ; an im- 
perial town later ; stormed by Cologne troops in 1496 ; 
and burned by the French in 1688. The deep moat 
and massive towers of the castle remain (see Long- 
fellow's Hyperion). Tramway to the Benedictine Abbey 
of Laach, founded in 1093, with magnificent Roman- 
esque ch, and cloisters, on the vast crater-lake of the 
Laaeher See (6 M. around). 

The Rhine now flows through a defile, between 
rugged heights. Neuwied (Goldener Anker; 
Wilder Mann; Moravian), on the E., has the 
palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a com- 
munity of austere Moravian Brethren, with admira- 
ble schools and workshops. Monrepoa is a chateau 
of the Prince, near by ; and Allwied, 34. M. out (car- 



UP THE EHINE. 227 

riage, 4 mks.), is a picturesque ruined castle. Weissen- 
thurm is opposite Neuwied, with a white watch-tower 
marking the boundaries of Treves and Cologne. Above 
is an obelisk to General Hoclie, erected by a French 
army crossing the Rhine in 1797. Near lingers (E. 
bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to 
be parts of Julius Caesar's bridge across the Rhine (see 
Commentaries). Muhlhofen (E. bank) is \\ M. from 
the ruins of Sayu castle, and the great modern cha- 
teau of Sayn, rich in art. Kesselkeim (W. bank) is 
near Schonbornslust, an old palace of the electors of 
Treves and of the exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth 
island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is 
an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- 
rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are enlarged 
and strengthened, before drifting Hollandward. The 
high fortress of Ehrenbrei tstein now comes into view, 
and the palace of the Prussian King. 

Coblenz {Giant; Bellevue ; Monopol; Anker ; 
Traube), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (40,000 
inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, 
wheice the Romans called it Confuentia. It is a pow- 
erful fortress, With heights crossed with enormous forti- 
fications, and a garrison of 5,000 soldiers. The Palace 
Avas built by the last Elector of Treves, and contains 
interesting Electoral Hall and Festival Hall, with por- 
traits, tapestries, etc. (fee, 25 pf.). The Mainzer-Thor 
and others of the city gates are worthy of notice. St. 
Castor is a handsome 4-towered basilica, founded in 
836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it is the historic 
Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates 
from 1344. Monument of Emperor William I. at 
junction of Rhine and Moselle. Archiepiscopal Palace 
(now a factory) dates from 1276; the Liebfrauenkirche, 
from the 13th century; the Merchants' Hall, from 



228 EHRENBREITSTEIN. — EMS. 

1480. The Rhine Promenade is a beautiful waterside 
park. The Kiihkopf, 1,190 ft. high, commands a grand 
view over the Rhine and Moselle valleys. Fort Franz, 
on the Petersberg, and Forts Alexander and Comtantine 
(superb view hence) guard the city. Across the Rhine 
is Ehrenbreitstein, " Honor's Broad Stone " (open 
daily; small fees for ticket and to guide), "The Gibraltar 
of the Rhine," a vast fortress on a precipitous rock, 
387 ft. above the river, and commanding a wonderful 
view. It was granted by King Dagobert to the arch- 
bishops of Treves in 636, and has been beleaguered 
many tunes, but yielded only twice. The French de- 
stroyed the works in 1801 ; but they were rebuilt, 
1S16-26, at a cost of $6,000,000. 

Excursions from Coblence. — It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride 
(1^ mk.j 1 mk., 70 pf.), or 7 M. walk from Ehrenbreitstein 
to Ems (Hotel d' Angleterre; De Russie; Des Quatre 
Saisons ; Darmstadt), a little town on the Lahn, 
amid wooded heights,annually visited byl2,000 health- 
seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). The waters (saline 
and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and female 
complaints, and have been used since 1354. The Kur- 
haus and Kursaal are the centre of the exotic life, and 
stand amid pleasant gardens. 

Up the Moselle, by steamer Wl\ M. (6 mks,, 
4 mks.), 4 times weekly, in 1^ days, passing the night 
at Trarhach, and reaching Treves at 3 p.iv. Voyage 
back to Coblence, 12 h«p. (8 mks., 5 mks. 30 pf.). Rly. 
to Treves in 2| hrs. (69^ M. ; fares, 9 mks., 6 mks. 
80 pf., 4|mks.). The valley of the Moselle is very 
beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cobern is 
a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel; over Brodenbach. the 
splendid Ehrenburg ruin ; over Cochem, twG fine 
castles and a monastery; over Trarbacfi, the ancient 
Grdfinburg ; and near Neumagen, Roman rnins. 



UP THE MOSELLE, 229 

Treves {Hotel de Treves; Porta Nigra; Luxem- 
bourg; Btadt Venedig; Post), on the Moselle, was 
the capital of the Treviri ; then the Augusta 
Trevirorum of the Romans ; then capital of Gaul, 
and Rome's rival fn art and commerce. This oldest 
city of Germany has only 40,000 inhab. ; although 
its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Constantino 
delivered thousands of Franks to be torn by wild 
beasts (a.d. 306), accommodates 30,000 spectators. 
The vast ruins of the Roman Baths were connected 
with the Palace of the Emperors. The Porta Nigra is a 
huge Roman gateway of blackened sandstone, 115 ft. 
long and 93 ft. high. The Cathedral dates from 550, — 
a vast structure, under which repose the archbishops 
and electors of Treves. Here are preserved Christ's 
seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the 
Crown of Thorns. Cloisters run thence to the Lieu* 
frauenkirche, a beautiful circular ch. (1243). The 
Basilica, built before Constantine, successively a Ro- 
man court-house, exchange, imperial governors' palace, 
bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Museum 
and Town Library contain rare MSS., portraits, and 
Roman antiquities. Rly. from Treves to Thionville 
and Luxembourg (f hi\). 

Ascending the Rhine from Coblenz, Capellen (Hotel 
Stolzenfels ; Hotel Bellevue) is reached (W. bank), 
over which rises the royal castle of Stolzenfels (en- 
trance, 25pf. ; donkeys to ride up and back, lm. 20pf.), 
420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It 
was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Treves, and 
inhabited by his successors. The French destroyed it 
in 1688; and since 1823 it has been restored by the 
Prussian King. Rich historical frescos in Chapel and 
Knights' Hall; many rave old pictures and curiosities. 

Oberlahnstein ( Welter; Hinhom), opp. Capellen 
(•fei-ry every § hf., 10-20 pf.), near the lately restored 



230 BOPPARD. — ST. GOAR. 

castle of Lahneck. Above Capellen is Konigsstuhl, 
where the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open 
air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Em- 
peror Charles IV. built a castle here in 1376. Farther 
up is Rhense (W.), with walls and a moat constructed 
by the Archbishop of Cologne in 1370. Braubach is 
tinder Marksburg, an imposing castle 492 ft. above 
the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjured 3 
and inhabited. Old Swedish and French cannon here. 

Boppard (Ziim Spiegel/ llirsch; Glosmann; Rliein; 
Lange), on the W. bank, was a Celtic town ; forti- 
fied by the Romans, and named Bodobriga: 
headquarters of the 13th Legion ; seat of a lodge 
of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial town. The 
inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval ; 
and the two churches date from 1200 and 1500. 
The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine 
nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely, 
in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mis. 
recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields. 
Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries, are twin 
rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of Stern- 
berg and Liebenstein, to which attaches the legend of 
Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegardc. Over Welmich (E.) 
rises the castle of Thurnberg, finished in 1363, and then 
derisively called The Mouse. 

The handsome old town of St. Goar (founded ir 
570) is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river, 
the famous Rheinfels, dating from 1245 ; besieged by 
26 Rhenish towns in 1255; held by the French, 
1758-63, 1794-97, and blown up by them; and now 
royal property. St. G-oarshausen (steam-ferry to 
St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in 
1393, and blown up by the French in 1804= Many 
charming excursions from either of these towns. The 
noble and well-preserved ruin of Reickenberg castle 



OBERWESEL — BACHARACH. 231 

(1230^ is 3 M. E. The picturesque Swiss Valley is 
back of St. Goarshausen. Above is the Lurlei rock, 
a precipice 4o3 ft. high, rising over whirlpools in the 
deepest and narrowest part of the Rhine, and the fabled 
seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Farther up 
are the Seoen Virgins rocks, with their grim legend. 

Oberwesel {Continental ; Goldener Pfropfen- 
zieher), on the W. ; a picturesque Roman town, rich in 
wine and scenery ; beloved by artists, who haunt the 
gray old walls, the massive mediaeval towers, the 15th- 
century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and 
pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward Avail, com- 
memorating a terrible deed in 1286.' Above all, 
Schonburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal 
Schomberg, who lies hi Westminster Abbey. This 
many-towered cradle of a race of warriors was de- 
molished by Louis XIY.'s troops in 1C89 Caub, 
abounding in wine (see statue of Bliicher), is under 
the castle of Gutenfels, built in 1277, and destroyed 
in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal fortress in 
the middle of the Rhine, built by Lewis of Bavaria 
about the year 1200. Thence he used to swoop down 
upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts, 
Bliicher's and York's Prussian and Russian armies 
crossed the Rhine, Jan. ], 1814 

Bacharach(i7<5z^Z Rerbrecht,Blilcherfhal. BasUan) 
on the W. bank; a favorite resort; its wines, celebrated 
in Longfellow's Golden Legend, still entitle it to the 
name Ara Bacchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle* 
Ages men gave it. The great fire of 1372 destroyed 
many rare old houses ; but the gray walls, descending 
from Stahleck, still envelop the town : and the beau- 
tiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner's Ch., and the stately 
Romanesque St. Peter's Church (now restored), still 
stand fast. Overhead is Stall. eck castle, the home 



232 LORCH. — BINGEN. 

of the Counts Palatine until 1265, besieged 8 times 
by the French between 1620 and 1640, and blcn/n uu 
in 1689. Fiirstenberg, another noble ruin, is near 
by. The robber-knights fired thence on the ship in 
which Adolph of Nassau was descending to Aix-la- 
Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion 
up the narrow Steeg valley ; also to Kreuznach. 

Lorch ( Hotel Weibler;" Krone), on E. bk. , the Roman 
Laureacum, lias a Flamboyant 12th-century ch. 5 with 
quaint monuments and fine bell*. Near by, over the 
DeoiVs Ladder cliff, is Nollingen castle. Niederheim- 
Lack (W. bank) is under Hohneck, or Hamburg castle. 
Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by the Arch- 
bishop of Mayence ; and Falkenburg, or the Reichen- 
stein, destroyed as a robbers' nest by the Rhenish 
towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of Hapsburg, who 
hung its knights from the windows. Rheinsteiii, 
farther up (W. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be- 
fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prince Frederick 
of Prussia, who is buried here (entrance, \ mk.). 

Assmannshausen {Hotel Krone ; Hhein ; Reu- 
tershan; Niederwald; Lamm; Anker) on the E., 
exports aromatic red wine all over the world. Above 
is the rapid of the Binge r Loch, where the raftsmen 
have hard work. Ehrenfels (E. bank) is a high tower, 
built in 1210 by the Governor of the Rheingau, dam- 
aged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the 
French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which 
produce the Riidesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenfels. on 
quartz ledges in the stream, is the Mouse Tower, 
where, as legend tells, Archbishop llatto of Mayence 
was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd 
of famine-stricken peasants to be burned to death, com- 
paring them to corn-destroying mice. 

"BingeniHotel Victoria ;Bellemi e;Weisscs KoHs;d! Ati* 
gleterre) , under the heights at mouth of Nahe, amid 



METZ. 233 

charming 1 scenery, where the Rhine bends around the 
Niederwald, on which is the new National Monument, 
with huge bronze statues, etc. On the Drums berg are 
the ruins of Klopp % once a Roman castle, destroyed by 
the French in 1089. The Rochusberg (3-11 ft. high) 
overlooks the beautiful Rhemgau ; the Niederwald 
gives another ravishing view. Rly. from Riidesheim 
to Wiesbaden, Frankfort, Ems, and Nassau ; and from 
Biugerbriick to Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, and 
Kreuznach (Oranienhof; Adler), a prettily situ- 
ated watering-place, where 6-S,000 persons go yearly 
for the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles. 

From Bingerbrhck one can go, by the Frankfort-Paris 
route, to Metz in 8-9 lirs. (fares, 17 inks. 90 pf., 
13 inks., 8 inks. 60 pf.), passing Kreuznach ; Oberstein, 
a beautiful village on the Nahe, devoted to polishing 
agates ; Neunkire/ien ; and Saarb rile ken, 3 M. N. of the 
battle-ground of Spicheren (1870 ; carriage to field, 
12mks. Mets {Grand Hotel; Post; Be Metz; Be 
Paris), a city of 62,000 inhab., on the Moselle, once the 
capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France 
in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a pro- 
longed siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte 
and Mars-la-Tour, on the W. (see local guides). Since 
then the victors have greatly extended the vast fortress. 
Visit interesting E. side of town. The Cathedral is a 
magnificent 13th century Gothic ch., with a tower 
387ft. high. In front is a statue of Louis XIV.'s 
Marshal Fabert. Statues of Marshal Ney and Emp. 
William I on Esplanade, near Palace of justice. 

Riidesheim (Rheinstein; ErJiard ; Barmstadt ; 
Jung), op, Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights, 
wild legends, and a Roman fortress. Farther up 
\s Geisenheim, with monasteries and vineyards. On 
She heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a 



234 MAYENCE. 

Benedictine convent of 1106, the Abbot of Fulda built 
a castle, afterwards granted to Prince Metternich, and 
now amid the best vineyards on the Rhine, and com- 
manding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rii- 
desheim hence, or to Mtville. The river scenery above 
Bingen is less interesting, and many travellers go hence 
to Mayence by rail (f hr.; by steamer, 2\ brs.). Above 
Geisenheim, well in-shore on the r., is Inaelheim, the 
site of Charlemagne's great palace. Eltville (on the \) 
has fine villas and venerable ruins, and is 4 M. from 
the famous warm baths of Schlangeubad. From Bie- 
brick, rly. to Wiesbaden. Above is Peter.sau, wdiere 
Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son, died in 840. 

Mayence (Hotel de Holla ude ; D Anqleterre ; Rhein* 
ischer ; Pfalzer; Taunus; Germania), 78,000 inhab,, 
and a strategic position, commanding confluence of 
Rhine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the 
Roman Moguntiacum, fortified by Drusus (b.c. 14), and 
headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The Cita- 
del, on their camp-ground, has a monument erected by 
his soldiers to Drusus, who died here. Pope Zacharias 
(in 751) made St. Boniface, the English missionary,' 
Archbishop of Mayence (the first German bishopric); 
and after 1250 "Golden Mayence" originated and 
headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. In 1462 
Archbishop Adolph killed the foremost citizens, and 
Mayence became a mere archiepiscopai town. The 
French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a 
French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian. 
The Cathedral, begun in 978, and 6 times burned and 
restored, is a vast structure, with domes and round 
towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates 
(made in 1135). The interior is very grand, richty 
frescoed (by Veit), with choirs on E. (1175) and W. 
(1239), and 56 columns upholding the vaulting (open 



MAYENCE. 235 

till 11.30, and 3-6). There are scores of fine old monu- 
ments, including one to Fastrada, Charlemagne's wife. 
The restored Cloisters, built in 1412, are the finest in 
W. Germany, and contain Schwanthaler's monument 
to the pious minstrel Heinricli von Meissen (died 1318), 
erected by the women of Mayence in 1812. Thor- 
waldsen's statue of Gutenberg, the inventor of printing, 
stands near the Cathedral ; and the house in which he 
was born is not far off. St. Stephens Ch. (1257-1318) 
and cloisters are on high ground, and the tower overlooks 
Mayence. The Electoral Palace, built 1627-78, and 
used by the French for storing hay, is in the N. E. 
quarter, and contains a. rich museum (fee, 50 pf. Tues, 
and Sat., other days free) of Ttoman-Germanic relics, a 
library of 100,000 vols., and a Picture-Gallery of 9 
rooms, with many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo, 
Holbein, etc.). The Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, 
was a Lodge of the Teutonic Order, and has an arsenal 
attached. There are charming walks along the river 
in the Esplanade, and in the JVeue Anlage Park 
(restaurant) . An iron bridge crosses the Rhine from 
the Esplanade opposite the arsenal to Castel, a small 
but strongly fortified suburb, Here stood once a 
Roman bridge. 

A Run through North Germany. 

With Frankfort and Wiesbaden. 

The traveller should now determine whether to hasten on 
to Switzerland, or (which is much better) spend a few days in 
Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and 
Berlin ; and thence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna ; 
returning to the Rhineland by Nuremberg, Munich, and 
Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pas3 
S. from Mayence, by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10- 
14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, and 
the Black Forest. 



236 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN 

From Mayence it is f hr. by rly. (fares, 2 mks. 95 pf., 
1 mk. 95 pf., 1 nik. 30 pf.) to the Prussian city ol Frank* 
fort-on-the-Main {Frankfurter Hof ; De Russie; 

Union; Jacobi; aVAngleterre; Sctiwan; PariserJloJ), 
which has 252,000 mhab., and stands on a mountain- 
girdled plain. Charlemagne held a council here in 794 
and later sovereigns granted high privileges. From 1356 
to 1806 this was the place of election for the German 
emperors (beginning with Barbarossa), many of whom 
were crowned here. It was a free city from 1814 
to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a 
handsome and agreeable place, with good society and 
vast wealth. The ancient Ronier, or Town Hall, con- 
tains the Emperors' Hall, and the room in which the 
electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the 
coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews 
were allowed on this square. See Cathedral (1238). 
Historical Museum in Archives building and restored 
Leinwandhaus (50pf.,Sun. & Wed, free). The bridge 
over Main (leading to Sachsenhausen), built 1342, has 
a statue of Charlemagne. The Saalhof has a chapel of 
the Carlovmgian kings. The Exchange is a very hand- 
some modern building. The 13th-century chs. of St. 
Leon hard and St. Nicholas are interesting. The house 
in which Goethe was born, and where he wrote Werther, 
is public property. His statue (with bas-reliefs) by 
Schwanthaler is near the Rossmarkt square ; and there 
is another in the Town Library (150,000 vols.). Thft 
Stddel Institute has a school of fine arts, collections of 
engravings, drawings, and casts, and several hundred 
paintings of merit (open daily, 11-2; catalogue, 1 mk.). 
Bethmanri' s Museum contains Dannecker's Ariadne, 
etc. (open daily, 50-75 pf .). The Zeil is the most bril- 
liant streetin Frankfort. See Palm Garden, sculpture 
ui ry. station, Opera-House, Natural History Museum, 



HOMBURG. — WIESBADEN. 237 

and Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter, 
where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and 
where the Rothschilds originated, is being modernized. 
Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at even- 
ing and on Sundays, and no Jew was allowed outside. 
From Frankfort it is § hr. by rly. (fares, 1 mk. 60 
pf. , 1 ink. 20 pf.) to Homburg ( Villa Furstenruhe) , 
Victoria; Bellevue; Du Pare; Adler; De Bussie), a 
celebrated watering-place on the T annus Mts. Iron 
and saline springs in the superb gardens of the 
Kurham (library, reading-room, and line saloons). 
Gambling was abolished here in 1870 See the castle 
of the Landgraves. If M. N. on the mts. is a massive 
Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the 
wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhincland. 

From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. (fares, 3 mks. 40 pf., 
Simks., lmk. 15pf.) to Wiesbaden [Nassau; Palace; 
Kaiser hof; Quatre Sai ons; Metropole; du Pare), in 
tlie lovely valley of the Salzbach, on the vine and gio ve« 
clad S. W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 120,000 visitors 
annually partake. of the warm saline waters, beneficial 
for rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions these Jont.es 
calidi ; and the camps of the 14th and £2d Legion * 
were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town 
pretty. Back of the handsome Xursaal is an extensive 
park, the favorite resort of visitors. • See the 2 palaces, 
the museum, and picture-gallery, the library, the Gov- 
ernment buildings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with 
its colossal statues The Heidenmauer, N. W. of the 
town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long. Beautiful walks 
to JSTerothal, Platte, and other environs. 

Frankfort to Hanover, Hamburg, and Bremen. 

From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse (5-8 
hrs. ; fares, 16 mks., 12 mks., 8 mks.), by high-walled 
Fnedberg ; the mineral springs of Nauheim ; the rly. 



238 CASSEL. — HANOVER. — BRUNSWICK. 

junction of Giessen ; and historic Marburg, with its 
splendid chs. and castle; to Cassel (JVord ; Royal), 
the beautiful old Hessian capital (70,000 inhab.), with 
its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericiairum 
(200,000 vols. ; myriads of gems, mosaics, weapons, 
ivories, etc.). In the Bellevue castle is a gallery ol 
several hundred fine old paintings. Wilhelmsliohe, 
4 M. distant, is a sumptuous palace, in a park famous 
for its fountains and cascades. Here Napoleon III. 
was imprisoned in 1870-71. 

From Cassel it is 4-5 hrs. (13 mks. 40 pf. s 10 mks. 10 
pf'.6mks.70pf.),by Gottingen, famous for its univer- 
sity, to Hanover ( Victoria; Roy >al ; Bristol), hand son. j 
city of 250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 
1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of 
the Hanoverian kings; the Royal Library, of 170.000 
vols. ; the handsome Theatre ; the Museums ; and nu- 
merous statues and monuments. N. W is the imposing 
Palace of the Guelphs ; also, Uerrenhausen, the subur- 
ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty Hano- 
ver is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on the route to Berlin ; 
and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick (fares, 3 mks. 
80 j)t, 2 1 mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick (Schra- 
der's Hotel; Deutsche*), the residence of the Duke of 
Brunswick, 125,000 inhab., has a mediaeval air, with 
its ancient Gothic- Town Hall; St. Martin's Ch., rich in 
carvings ; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry 
the Lion in 1172 ; the bronze Lion monument (1166) ; 
etc. The splendid new Ducal Palace is near the Ducal 
Museum, in which are 900 pictures, and countless other 
relics and curios. See also the War Momiment and 
the Theatre. The fortifications have been replaced by 
promenades and gardens. Magdeburg {Central 
H?tel) on the Elbe, has 220.000 inhab. . and a very cele- 
brated CathedraU1208). Great cannon-foundry near* 



HAMBURG. — BREMEN. 239 

From Hanover it is 112 M.(4-5 hrs ; fares 16 mks. 
80 pf., 12| mks., 8 mks.) by Lurieburg, with its ancient 
houses and pHs:. to Hamburg (Hamburger Hof ; 
Esplanade; Atlantic; Kronprinz; Vier Jahreszeiien; 
Europa), 680,000 rnhab., ranking next after London 
among the important seaports of Europe. It is on the 
lower Elbe, and is the chief of the three Hanseatic 
towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805), 
and Louis the Pious an archbishopric ; but the city is 
now all modern. There are vast and crowded quays, 
shipyards, rlvs., docks, a busy Exchange, a Town Li- 
brary (250,000 vols.), museums, monuments, and a good 
Art Gallery, The Bimien-Alster is a charming water- 
park, 1 M. around, surrounded by quays and prome- 
nades, lines of trees, and blocks of handsome houses 
and hotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and 
groups of swans. 

From Hamburg, trains run S. W., 76 M. (2£ hrs.; fares, 
10| mks., 7f mks., 4f mks), across a poc c, .flat country, 
to Bremen(Central; Hillmarts; Siedenburg; Be V Eu- 
rope; Du Word), a great Hanseatic commercial town, 
on the Weser River, with 142,000 inh. See the richly 
decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed Rathskeller, 
famous for wines ; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe- 
dral ; the Kumthalle, with pictures: the splendid new 
Gothic Exchange ; and colossal Roland statue (1412). 

Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin. 

Time required, 12-14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 32 
mks. 60 pf., 22 mks. 40 pf This route passes through 
Fulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. 
reaches Eisenach {Gtrossherzog von Sachsen), the quiet 
town where Luther went to school. Near by is the 
Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070, 



240 GOTHA.- WEIMAR. -LEIPSIC. 

and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther 
was hidden (1521-22), and many relics of his sojourn 
are shown. 4 hrs. S,, beyond the Ducal capital of 
Memingen, is Coburg (Victoria), a handsome 
Francouian city, with a remarkable castle. 

On the Berlin route is Gotha (Deutsche?* Hof), a 
pleasant ducal city, with 26,000 inhab. In and near 
the great Friedeustem Palace are remarkable collec- 
tions of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures, 
engravings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous 
picture-gallery. The Thuringian Forest lies around 
the Eisenach- Goth a rly. Erfurt (Romischer Kaiser) 
is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 53,000 inhab., a 
high-placed Gothic Cathedral, and the August mi an 
Monastery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. 
Farther on toward Berlin is 

Weimar (Erbpnnz ; Russischer Hof), capital of 
the grand-duchy of Saxe- Weimar, an ancient town of 
20,000 mhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his 
death in 1832; and his collections are shown. Schil- 
ler's house is open daily. Herder and Wieland also 
lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the 
town; and frescos from their works adorn the hand- 
some Grand Ducal Palace. Their busts and many 
curiosities are in the Grand-Ducal Library (170,000 
vols.; open daily). The Museum (open April-Sept., 
10-4) has many curios and paintings. The Stadt- 
kirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the 
tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried 
in the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards 
Berlin is 

Leipsic (Kaiserhof, Hauffe. de Russie, Sedan, de 
Prusse), a city of 400,000 inhab., the centre of the 
German book-trade, the seat of high imperial 
tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are held 
yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and 



LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241 

the Levant. 30 000 strangers come to these fairs ; and 
the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and cloths) ex- 
ceed $ 50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have 
been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300 
booksellers and 80 printing-ofSees here. The Museum 
has Thorwaldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collec- 
tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open 
Sun., Wed. ,Fri., free; Mon. 1 mk.; Tiies.,Thurs..Sat., 
•§mk.). The AugusUum is the seat of the University, 
which was founded in 1402, and has 3,200 students and 
a library of 350.003 vols, and 4,000 MSS. See the New 
T lieu t re, with beautiful Corinthian fag ide ; the Pleis- 
sen'jurr/ citadel ; the old houses in the Grimma'sche 
Strasse ; Aaerhaclis Keller, where part of the scene of 
G >ethe's Faust is laid ; the house in the Bruhl where 
Richard Wagner was born ; the Ethnographical Museum, 
etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Ans- 
triaus, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de- 
feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and 
drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market Place is 
the War Monument by Siemering. 

On the LeLpsic-.vIu^lel)urg.-{iauiburg rlv. is Halle 
(Bode; Hamburg; AVo ;>;■-/.' -v.?). with 91 000 inhab., and 
a i is mis uiiiversifv (I 000 students). In the market?- 
pi ice is t!n •\n^' ,n it, RathiWus, five immv-towered Ch. of 
u- Lady (15 D) ■> cl >ck'-towp'r 27A ft. high, and a 
st.u-ie of Handel Thorn at Halle. 1685) 

Berlin 

(Adlon, Alexandra, Carlton, Kaiserhof, Bristol, 
Royal, Savoy, Palast, Central, Continental, Rome, 
Monopol, Westminster, Esplanade), capital of Ger- 
many) 1.600,000 inhabitants), is 3 to 4 hours from 
Leipsic, on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Origi- 



242 BERLIN. 

nally a Wendish fishing-village, and afterwards a Han- 
seatic town, it was notably improved by the Great Elector 
(1040-88), and by Frederick the Great and his predecessor 
(1713 86). Since the accession of William I. in 1861 the 
population has increased fourfold, and the arts and trades 
have flourished remarkably. 

The best part of the city may be seen by walking down 
the Unler den louden, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with 
double rows of lime-trees, from the Brandenburg Gate 
to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the 
Propylaea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory 
with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1807 as a trophy. 
Outside is the T hiergarten ; inside, the Pariser-Platz, 
with the Bliicher Palace and Officers' Club on the S., and 
the French Emha. sy on the N. There are several other 
embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various govern- 
ment buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern 
is the first building on the S., and beyond are the resi- 
dences of the Minister of Religion and Education and of 
the Russian Ambassador. Opposite is the Ministry of the 
Interior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, Kaiser-Gal' 
lerie. '. the E. end is the bronze statue of Frederick the 
Great, by Rauch, called the finest of its kind in Europe. 
The king is on horseback, in his coronation- robes; and 
the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of 
his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Palace of Wil- 
liam I., behind which is the Royal Library (open 1-2), with 
1,000,000 volumes and 30,000 MSS. N. is the Academy 
Building containing the Academies of Art and of Science; 
also the University (7,000 students), once Prince Henry's 
palace, and partly enclosing gardens in which are statues 
of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoologi- 
cal collections here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The 
Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Rauch, and 
is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House, and 



BERLIN. ^43 

St. Hedwiy's C7)., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon. 
Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is ttie Empress Fred- 
erick Palace; and at the 1. is the Ro]/al Guard-House 
(military music in summer, 11-13), a copy of a Roman 
fortified gate. Back of this is the Singing-Academy ; and 
on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare 
trophies of war. Close by is the Schloss Bridge, adorned 
with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to the Lustgarten, 
a park in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick 
William III. On one side is the Royal Paiaee, a vast 
double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600 
rooms (open daily, 10-1). See Swiss Hal], King's Hall, 
Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet 
Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern 
battle-paintings), White Saloon (statues of the 12 Elec- 
tors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and 
splendidly frescoed. Magnificent new Cathedral must 
not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old Museum, 
the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico, 
adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly frescoed 
halls (open daily, 10-3). See the collections of antiquities; 
the sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Picture 
Gallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the study of art 
history. The New Museum contains Kaulbach's famous 
mural paintings, the Egyptian museum, an immense 
collection of casts, 12 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 
rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a 
Renaissance facade to the E. ; and opposite is the new 
Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily, 
11-3), which contains a magnificent and world-renowned 
collection of modern paintings. 

Tne Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of Berlin, 
antl the streets in this section are interesting. The 



244 BERLIN. 

Theatre is a. classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, witb 
several line bronze groups; in front, a noble statue of 
Schiller. The Wilhelmstrasse contains notable palaces; 
and in the Wilhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick 
the Great's generals. At the west end of the. busy Leip- 
ziger-Strasse are the halls of the Prussian Diet, the offices 
of the ministers of War and Navy, and of the Postmaster- 
General; adjoining latter is the interes'ting Post- Office 
Museum. Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer- 
Platz, and near this on Koniggratzer-Strasse corner 
Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is Ethnographical Museum (10-3), 
next to which is the Art Industrial Museum (10-3). Belle 
Alliance Platz contains lofty granite column of Peace 
(1840), surrounded by splendid marble groups. 

At the E. end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spittel-Markt. 
Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Raven&s Gallery of modern 
French and German pictures (Tues. & Fri., 10-2). S. of 
the Schloss-Brucke is the Academy of Architecture. The 
Schinkel-Platzh&s statues of Schinkel, Beuth, and Thaer. 
The Kurfilrsten Bridge leads from the square S. of the 
Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are the Imperial 
Post-Office and the 14th-century Ch. of St. Mary. The 
Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Romanesque building 
of brick (1860-70), with a tower 286 ft. high, and several 
handsome halls. Underneath is the Rathskeller, a great 
refreshment -room. Opposite the Museum is the Stock 
Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the 
greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. Beyond the 
Hercules Bridge (on which are statues by Schadow) is 
Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in which is the Hohen- 
zollern Museum (daily, 10-3) . Near by is the great Syna- 
gogue, Moorish in style. 

The splendid KOnigs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten, 
and contains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft. high, com- 



POTSDAM. 245 

memorating the battles of 1870-71. Here is the Italian 
Renaissance Hall of the Imperial Diet, which cost 22,000,- 
000 mks. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade, 
leads through the Thiergarten, a park 2 M. long and J M. 
wide, with many ponds and groves of large trees. At the 
end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is the Emperor 
William Memorial Church, erected in 1895. To S.E. is the 
Botanical Garden with plants of 20,000 species. Horse-cars 
run through the Thiergarten to CSiarlotteoburg-, a large 
town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a 
Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious masters. In 
Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried ; and 
in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cor- 
nelius rests in Hedwig^s Cemetery; Ranch, Schadow, 
Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt 
Cemetery; and the Humboldts, at Tegel. 

Potsdam (Einsiedler, Eisenbahn, with good restaurant) 
is 16 M. from Berlin (% hr.; 75 pf.), among wooded hills 
and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans- 
souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of 
reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture-Gallery, 
the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the 
Sicilian Garden. The New Palace (1769) has 200 richly 
adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy 
Marble Saloon. The Mai^ble Palace is N. of Potsdam, and 
has many paintings. Babelsberg is a new Gothic palace, 
with rich art-treasures, The Town Palace (1660) is full of 
relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church con- 
tains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of 
Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces of 
sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on 
summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux 
of princes near Potsdam (60,000 inhab.). 



;HESDEN. 



Dresden and Prague. 

Express- trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 hrs. (108 M. ; 16 
mks. 30 pf ., 12 mks. 20 pf ., 8 inks. 50 pf . ). 

Dresden (Grand Union, Savoy, Europaischer Hof, Conti- 
nental, Bellevue, Berlin, Rom, Kronprinz, Vier JahreS' 
zeiten), "the German Florence," has 400,000 inhab., and 
has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British 
and American families dwell here, induced by the 
abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also 
by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 2 stone 
bridges, and bordered by the popular promenade, the 
Briilil Terrace, adorned with statuary and trees. Here 
front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition 
Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music, Sun. and 
festivals, 11) Statues . of Richter and Semper and the 
Maurice monument here. Opposite Court Church is the 
Hof-TJieater, and near it Guard House. In square is 
equestrian statue of King John. The Royal Palace (1534) 
is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. 
high, and a richlv frescoed Throne Room. The Green- 
Vault (9-2 daily ; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest 
existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carv- 
ings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent 
plate; also the regalia of Poland and Saxony, superb 
state swords, and precious stones of enormous value ; and 
works of Durer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum (part 
of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building decorated with 
statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture- 
gallery N. of Italy (open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs., 
Fri. free). Here are 2,400 paintings, including 
the Sistine Madonna, Correggio's La Notte, and 
Titian's Tribute Money; and choice works of 



SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247 

Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Veronese, etc. ; also, 350,000 
engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in 
natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest- 
ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons, 
armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See t the Eng- 
lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross 
Ch., with tower 34(3 ft. high, and fountains and statues 
in the streets. Monument to the War of 1870—71, in 
the Old Market. 

The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains 
the Royal Library, with 400,000 vols., 6,000 MSS,, 
and many rare old books and maps (open to visitors 
12-1 summer, 1-2 winter, -§ mk.) ; the Collection of 
Porcelain (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Ori- 
ental wares ; open daily) ; and collections of coins and 
antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, 
near which Korner was born and Schiller dwelt. The 
Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein 
the French, and Prussians fought in 1813. Here are 
Zoological and Botanical Gardens; also a Museum of 
Antiquities, and Riefschel Museum of sculptures (both 
open daily). Schlegei and Weber are buried in the 
Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. 
Moreau was mortally wounded is \\ M. S. ; and the 
Moritzburg, a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. Pillnitz 
(7 M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming 
suburban excursions. 

The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful int. region, 
4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand* 
stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe. 
A 2-days' tour leads from Dresden to Potzscha (f hr. 
by rly.) ; thence (\\ hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned 
peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley, 
thence (5 hrs.) to Schandau, a summer resort (hotels) 
in the heart of the mt c and thence (1 day) by the 



248 PRAGUE. 

Lichtenhain Fall and the Kuhstall and Prebischthor 
peaks, to Kbnigstein, a lofty and imposing Saxon for- 
tress. It is 5-7 lirs. (fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 14 mks. 10 pf., 
9 mks. 40 pf.) up the Elbe valley and through the 
Saxon Switzerland, by Pima and Konigstein, with their 
fortresses, -and Bodenbach (2>| hrs. from the Schneeberg, 
and opposite the handsome castle of Tescheii), from 
Dresden to 

Pragme (De Saxe; Monopol: Royal; Schwartzes 
Ross; JBlauer Stem; Victoria; Goldener Engel) . the 
capital of Bohemia (250,000 inh.), situated on hills 
near the Moldau River, f of the people are Bohemians, 
aad the Germans are very unpop^ar. The city was 
founded by the Duchess Libussa. Here Huss and 
Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm 
root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed, 
just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces 
of the Roman-Catholic League. The palace of the 
Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and the 
old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho 
Brahe's tomb, is now Roman. In front of the Rath- 
haus 27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, in 
1620 ; and 11 of Wallenstein's officers, in 1633. See 
the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Pulver- 
thurm tower ; the great Jesuit College ; the ancient 
University, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemian National 
Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned with 
statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, where the Hussite 
wars began ; the Jews' Quarter, with 9 synagogues and 
a very ancient cemetery; and the Wysschrad citadel. 
The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, 
towers of defence (on one of which the heads of the 
Protestant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 
statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid 
Radetzkv Monument (made from Italian cannon) and 



CARLSBAD. — - TEPLITZ. 249 

the Jesuit Ch. On the rocky heights above is the mar- 
vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1344; 
-85), containing the marble and alabaster mausoleum 
(1589) of the Bohemian kings; the tombs of St. Adal- 
bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzel, and several Sclavonic 
kings, and many rare mosaics and paintings. The 
great Imperial Palace (open daily, 11-1, 1 ii.) con- 
tains portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Chamber 
from which the imperial councillors were thrown, 
causing the Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg 
Palace is a collection of 350-400 paintings (open 
daily). The vast Czernin Palace is now a barrack. 
Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied 
after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is the 
wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the 
tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenheim, a painting 
by Bikes, a fine library, and splendid views over 
Prague, tjie Moldau plain, and the Giant Mts. Below 
the Belvedere, an imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian 
historical frescos, are Wallenstein's Palace (1636) 
and the Nostitz Palace, containing 400 paintings. 

Carlsbad (Savoy; Bristol; Pupp; Anger's; Konigs- 
villa; National; Hannover; i\.roh), 6-7 hrs, W. 
of Prague, is visited by over 20.000 yearly, who find 
the suiptmr and saline waters beneficial, and pretty 
scenery of Te.pl glens and pine woods very charming. 

Teplitz (Zurn alien Rat ha us; Blatter Stem), 3^1 
hrs. from Dresden, 4-5 hrs. from Prague, another fam- 
ous watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used 
for bathing. Scenery is' mountainous, picturesque; 
and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys 
abound From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11—12 
hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf., 3Q mks. 60 pf., 21| mks.). Prom 
Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. ; 
8-10 hrs. ; fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 13 mks. 70 pf.), via 



250 VIENNA. 

Tabor and Gmiind. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna, 
18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaini aDd Vienna, 14 hrs. 

Vienna. 

Hotels.— Imperial ; Archduke Charles; Bristol ; 
Metropole ; De France ; Residenz ; Meissl ; Krantz; 
Grand; SacJier; (in the suburbs), Continental, Leo- 
poldstadt; Summer, Mariahilf; Holler, Neubau. 

Restaurants. — Vienna is expensive town, and a 
few hints raav be useful. There is no obligation to take 
more than first breakfast in hotels where you lodge. 
Sachers, near th* Opera; Hopfer ; Hartmann; Leh- 
ner; Bellaria; Drehers, close to Opera, and some 
of the cafe-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The 
Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and the traveller should 
not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, fre- 
quented by good society. Table-d , h6te is not general. 
Good dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed 
price's. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer (red) 
and Gumpoldskirchener (white). The Hungarian 
wines are Erlauer, Carlo witzer, and Of ener (red) ; and 
Tokayer a, id Ruster (white). 

Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for drive within the city 
limits; 1-Jfl. an hr. ; 1 -horse, lfl. 20kr. an hr. Drivers 
expect liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking- 
compartments, run around the Ring, the Franz- 
Joseph-Quai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the 
Prater (fare, 12kr.). The railway termini are all 
joined by a circular connecting line. 

The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards 
of 1,400,000 inh., stands on. a mountain- walled plain 
near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest, 
most enterprising, and most interesting of European 
cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village; then a Roman 
fort, where Marcus Aurelius died (18<*); left a deso- 
lation by the Huns; made a fief of the empire by 
Charlemagne; occupied by the Duke of Austria in 



VIENNA. 251 

1156; en riche:! by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oc- 
cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276 ; besieged by the 
Turks in 1529 and 1683 ; occupied by the French in 
1805 and 1809 ; and in the power of Prussia in 1866. 

The Church of St. Stephen, at the centre of 
Vienna, built of limestone, 1300-1510, and restored 
in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high ; 
and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars, 
adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial 
burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eugene ol Savoy, the 
stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla 
Choir, the carved choir-stalls, and the stained windows. 
Great catacombs beneath. On the outside, see Giant's, 
Eagle's, and Bishop's Doors, tomb of the Meisiersanger, 
pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen towers. The 
tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out 
thence the battle-fields of Wagram and Essling. At 
the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop- 
ping street, is the Stock am Eisen, a pine-tree stump 
full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom. 
In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (1693). 
The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im- 
perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent boule- 
vard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the 
Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, 
and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis. 
Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the 
great barracks and the Custom House. The next 
section, the Stub en-Ring ^ passes the handsome new 
Austrian Museum, (open daily), with 9 rooms, 
crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory, 
bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and stal. 
uary. This German S i Kensington is joined by a 
corridor to the Technical School, near which is a statue 
of Pallas Athene. The Park-Ring runs between the 



252 VIENNA. 

pretty Stadt Park, where the Strausses may often h* 
heard, and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are 
the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg 
and the Archduke William. The Kolowrat-Rhg passes 
the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic 
Academie Gymnasium. From the Schwartzenberg-Platz, 
with its monument and ducal palaces, the Karnthner- 
Ring passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti- 
ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance 
Artists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy 
Openi-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera House, 
the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and 
decorations ; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in 
which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2), 
a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and 
hundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc. 
The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of 
the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The 
Franzens-Ring passes the A r olksgarten, a popular park, 
with a temple containing Canova's Theseus. Near it 
is the superb Votive Ch., ommem orating the Em- 
peror's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned 
with twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft, 
high, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are 
vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe ; and the great 
new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, 
the Courts of Justice, the Hofburg Theatre, the Mili- 
tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House. The 
Schotten-Ring contains the Exchange, a new Renais- 
sance structure (cost $2,500,000), the vast Police 
Office, and the Stiftungshaus erected on the site of 
the Ring Theatre, which was burned with great loss 
of life in 1881. and leads to the Danube Canal. 

The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of 
Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg- 



VIENNA 253 

ular group of buildings, with a labyrinth of courts, 
gates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights' 
zlall, m the Residenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa; 
^he Riding -School ; the Guard-House (military music 
daily, at 1); the Augustinian Ch., with its monuments; 
the Hofgarien; and the statues of Francis I., Joseph 
II., the Aichduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The 
Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 600,000 
Vols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. The 
Natural-History and Mineral Cabinets are very inter- 
esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is 
the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire 
t'egalia of Austria, coronation -robes, jewel-studded dec- 
orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal, 
Napoleon I.'s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of 
Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle- 
magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. 
Among the jewels is the Florentine diamond, valued at 
$300,000. 

The homely Capuchin Ch. contains the Imperial 
Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you 
may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie 
Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. 
Near by is the Imperial Print ing -Office (open Tues. 
and Fri., 9-12). The University (4,000 students) 
is in the Franzens-Ring. • 

The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily, 
9—6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many 
remarkable works of Rubens and Van Dyck. The 
Schonborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 9-3) has 
a famous collection of pictures ; and the Harrach Pair 
ace (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) contains 400 interesting 
paintings. There are many very interesting ancient 
and modern chs. in Vienna, many palaces, and civic 
and national institutions, monuments, squares and 
bridges, which should be seen. 



254 VIENNA, 

The Belvedere, an Imperial residence,built in 1693- 
1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy, 
has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly 
contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remark- 
able collection of early Italian and Venetian works, 
and Diirer's world-renowned " Trinity," all of which 
were removed to the Imperial Art Museum in 1891. 
The other of the two buildings forming the Belve- 
dere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained the 
famous Ambras collection, removed in 1889 to the 
Art-History Museum. Near by is the vast Arsenal, 
with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands 
of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, 
Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great bar- 
racks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry. 

The Prater is an immense forest-park on the B 
(laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatres, 
and avenues. On May and June afternoons the fashion- 
able world of Austria may be seen driving in the HawpU 
Allee. Wurstel Prater is the part frequented by the 
humbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring, 1^ M. 
N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grillpar- 
zer are buried; Mozart lies at Si. Mane, and Gluck at 
Matzleinsdorf. 

Schonbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid 
suburban imperial residence, where Napoleon I. had 
his headquarters, and where his son died (1832). 
Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers. 
On the W. are the villas of Hietzing. Laxenburg 
(f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in 
1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. 
The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube 
plain, the Carpathians, aud the Styrian Alps. There 
are many other lovely excursions in the environs. 



PESTH 255 

SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE 

THIS interesting region is easily reached from Vi- 
enna, whence steamers descend the Danube to 
Pesth in 12-18 hrs. (starting at 6.80 a. m. ; fares, 7 fl., 
4f fl.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly., 7-8 hrs. (fares 9 fl. 
60 kr., 7 fl. 80 kr. by express) The steamer passes 
Lobau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, 
with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809; and the cas- 
ties of Deutsch- Altenburg . 1 1 'ainburg, and Theben, and 
in 2| hrs. reaches Presburg (Gruner Baum; Konig 
wn Ungavn), the former capital (48,000 inn,), on the 
foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In the Cathedral 
(1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it 
is a statue of St. Martin. See the Rathhaus (1288); 
the beautiful Franciscan Gh. (1293); and the Museums. 
From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the Schloss* 
berg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vine- 
yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity 

Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn is a 
powerful fortress (14,000 inhab.); Gran (10,000 in- 
nab.) has lofty-domed cathedral; Wisiegrad, a ven- 
erable fortress, ruined by the Turks. 

Budapest (Grand Hotel Ilungaria; Queen of 
England; Pannonia; Jdgerhom ; Royal; Fiume, 
in Buda; Jlargaretenbad, on the island) has 750,000 
inhabitants. It is the capital of Hungary, and is a 
handsome modern city, next only to Vienna in im- 
portance in the empire-kingdom. The beautiful 
modern Renaissance Academy (11-1) contains a li- 
brary and botanical collection, and has many Hun- 
garian landscapes and historical paintings. The 
National 3fusenm (9-1) is rich in Roman Transyl- 
vanian. and Hungarian antiquities, and has a natural 
history collection and a library and waiting room. 
The magnificent Moro-Romanesque Redoute Build- 
ings contain ball-rooms, concert halls, assembly 
rooms, etc. The new Museum of Fine A rts contains 
the great National (formerly Esterhazy) Gallery with 



256 BELGRADE-BAZIASCH. 

900 paintings, 22,000 drawings, and about 75,000 
engravings, and also a collection of modern pictures. 
See the Industrial Art Museum with exterior colored 
ornamentation in Magyar style ; the House of Par- 
liament ; the Palace of Justice ; the Rathaus ; the 
Opera House; the new Royal Agricultural Museum 
in the Varoshget Park ; the Post Office ; the pro- 
menades along the Danube ; the statues of Stefan 
Szechenyi, Joseph von Eotvos, Archduke Joseph, 
Franz Deak, Alexander Petofi, Semmelweiss, the dis- 
coverer, after Oliver Wendell Holmes, of the cause of 
puerperal fever, and George Washington; colossal 
sculptural bulls in front of the slaughter house ; the 
Varosliget Park ; the Kerepesi Cemetery with monu- 
ments of Kossuth, Batthyany, Deak, and others; 
the Margarethen-lnsel, a pretty island-park (cafes 
and military music) ; and various new national 
buildings. A splendid suspension-bridge and other 
bridges connect Pest and Buda (Of en). The latter 
was once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a 
Turkish town. See the Royal Palace, the great 
modern fortress, and St. Matthius Church. There 
are famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks, 
near one of which is a mosque. 

Steamers from Pesth to Orsova, 50 hours, a superb 
trip, passing Mohdcs, where the Turks conquered 
Hungary (1526); Neusatz, a fortified modern tiWn; 
Peterwardein, where Peter the Hermit preached the 
First Crusade ; Carloivitz, and Semlin, where is 
Hunyadi's castle. 

Belgrade (Hotel de Paris), the capital of Servia, 
has 40,000 inhab., a quaint Oriental town, with nar- 
row streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock. 

4-5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the ry. from 
Pesth. Travelers come down this way and take steamer 
at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent 
scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre- 



ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 257 

mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Grdubacz, and 
ancient Roman forts. At Drencova the rapids are 
entered. Servia is on the r., Hungary on the 1. 
Through the Defile of Kasan the river is 500-600 ft. 
■wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman 
road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, commemo- 
rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end. 

Orsova (Kbnig von Ungarn) is a pretty Wallachian 
village, just above the famous Iron Gates, where the 
Danube plunges through a rocky canon 1^ M. long. 
A rly. runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M. ; fares, 
25 fl. 65 kr., 19 fl. 22 kr., 12 fl. 80 kr.), by Temesvar 
(32,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest by this 
favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, 131f fr, ; 
the Roumanian currency is like that of France). 

The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople 
(3 days; fares, food included, 108^ fl., 75^ fl.) is by 
rly. to Bayisch, thence by express-steamer to Rustchuk, 
rly. to Varna, and steamer down the Black Sea. From 
Gfiurgevo, opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest. 

Vienna to Bucharest. — Fares, 16 fl. 62 kr., 12 fl. 
TO kr., 9 fl. 79 kr., to Cracow (Grand; Saxe), once 
the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846. 
Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish 
kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by 
the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16J fl., 
12 fl. 18 kr., 6| fl., to Lemberg (Hotel de France/ 
JD'Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 127,000 
inhab. and a large university. Lemberg to Czernowitz, 
12 fl. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr.; Czernowitz to 
Roman, fares proportional ; Roman to Buchare * 56 fl. 
20 kr., 42£ fl., 28 fl. 10 kr. 

Bucharest (Hotel Frascati), the capital or" the 
kingdom of Rcumania, " the Paris of the East," has 
315,000 inhab., and is a semi- Oriental town, divided 



258 &RATZ. — TRIESTE. 

into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, 
or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni- 
versity, the Ch. and Monastery of Radii Vod (1572), 
the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and 
some of the chs. 

Vienna to Gratz and Trieste. 

Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 14| 
hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 82 kr., 24 fl. 52 kr.), crossing the 
Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly., 
with 30 tunnels and viaducts ; 25 M. of this line cost 
nearly $8,0.00,000. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above 
the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning 
ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the 
narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to 
Venice diverges, and by a score of castles, to 

Gratz (Elephant; Daniel; Swan), the capital of 
Styria (100,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and 
growing town, where many retired Austrian officers 
live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands 
a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the 
Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the 
Johanneum Palace, with its library aud picture-gallery. 

Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. 
region, full of historical interest. At Steinbriick a 
branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia. 
Farther on is Laibach, the capital of Carniola, with a 
fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg {Grand 
Hotel Adelsberg ; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite 
Caverns (f M. W.) may. be visited. The long zigzag 
descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views. 

Trieste (Hotel de la Ville; Delorme; Aquila JVera; 
Central), chief Austrian port (150,000 inhab.), is an 
Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully 



LINZ. — SALZBURG. 259 

situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000 
vessels yearly. It has a venerable cathedral, a sump- 
tuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian ch., a far-viewing 
Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto 
(Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues. 
The Tergesteum is a vast commercial building, head- 
quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Piazzetta di 
Rlcardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard 
Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An- 
drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of 
Mexico; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke. 

Steamers run from Trieste clown the Istrian and 
Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, CattarQ, 
Pola, and Fiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, 
and Constantinople ; also to Venice. Riy. to Venice. 

The Upper Da,nube, Salzburg, etc. 

This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness. 
The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 
8-9 hrs. (7fl., 4fl. 30 kr.) ; ascent, 18-20 hrs. The 
route to N. Germany is by riy. to Linz and Munich. 
Ely. from Vienna in 117 M. (4£-6 hrs. ; 10 fl. 80 kr., 
8 fl. 10 kr.), by Molk, with its ancient monastery ; and 
Bnns, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England 
for Richard Cceur de Lion; and 3 M. from the great 
Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; to 

Linz {Erzherzog Carl ; Goldner Adler), the Capital 
of Upper Austria (50,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with 
a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78| M. S. W. 
(fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.«, express in 3 hrs.) is 

&9lzlovu%(II6tel del' Europe; D'Autriche; Nelbock), 
one of the most beautiful towus in Germany, with an 
Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and 
marble facades, and environs of far-famed picturesque- 



260 THE SALZKAMMERGUT. 

ness. The Palace, Cathedral, and Government build* 
ings are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace, 
his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; also 
the. Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and the Benedic- 
tine Abbey, with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy 
his wine. See the Museum, the Franciscan Ch., the 
imposing Fortress of Hohen- Salzburg, and the high and 
woody Monchsberg ; 250 stone steps lead to the monas- 
tery on the Capuzwerberg. The house of Paracelsus is 
near the river. The palace of Mirabell, Prince Schwart- 
zenberg's chateau of Aigen, and the imperial villa of 
Helbrunn, are near by. 

Diligences run 3 times daily (9fl. 73kr.) to Wild- 
bad Gastein (Straubinger; Gasteiner Hof; Bade- 
schloss; Austria; Kaiserhof; Hirsch; Weismayr; 
Germania) , whose warm springs attract thousands 
of nervous, gouty and debilitated folk. Beautiful 
hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls. 

"The Salzkammergut, or " Austrian Switzerland," 
in which the Government has great salt-mines, covers 
250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has 
the finest scenery in Germany, sequestered green valleys, 
crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Diligences run 
daily from Salzburg (34 M. ; 4fl.) to the expensive 
watering-place of Ischl (Kaiserin Elisabeth ; Bauer ; 
Post ; Victoria), near the centre of this Alpine region, 
with splendid villas of the Emperor and many nobles. 
Mud baths and whey baths here. "}rand excursions in 
every direction. From Vienna to Ischl, leave Salzburg 
line at Lambach, and go by branch rly. to Gmunden 
(passing near the Traun Falls), a quiet little summer- 
resort on the Traun See, the most beautiful of German 
lakes. Thence 9 M. by steamer, amid grand lake and 
mt. scenery, to Langbath (diligence to Ischl, 12 M.). 

Between Salzburg and Munich ry. traverses a pic- 
turesque mt. region. 



MUNICH. 261 

Munich and the Tyrol. 

Mumch(Bayrischer Ilof; Russischerllof; Rhei?i- 
ischer Hof; Englischer Hof; Vier Jahreszeiten; 
Continental; de V Europe; (xrimwald; Park), the 
capital of Bavaria (550,000 inhab.), is on the 
Isar river, on a broad, lofty and barren plain. The 
climate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap, 
and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay 
of 2-4 weeks. The Royal Palace, an imitation of 
the Pitti Palace, contains magnificent frescos from the 
Odyssey and the Niebelungenlied, and from the lives 
of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and, 
in the Throne-Room, Schwanthaler's grand statues 
of 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- 
Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Royal Chapel 
(open Tues., 9.30-11) ; also the Treasury (Tues. and 
Eri., 9-11), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue 
diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620), 
and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni. 
gunda (1010). The Festsaalbau, with noble portico 
and statues, fronts on the Hqfgarten, around which run 
richly frescoed Arcades, containing the Ethnographical 
Museum and the Art Union. The Hof -Theatre, adorned 
with many fine statues, is the largest in Germany. 

To the east of the palace is the Bavarian Military 
Museum, with elaborately ornamented cannon in 
front. The Bavarian, National Museum in the 
Prinz-Regenten Street contains collections of great 
historical interest of industrial art, mediaeval Chris- 
tian art, and modern art; textiles, armor, ceramics; 
old MSS. and specimens of early printing. 

The Ludwigs-Strasse runs from the Hall of Gen- 
erals to Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected 
by Lewis I. to the Bavarian army, with statues 
and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria, 
in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street 
are the Odeon concert-hall ; Theatine Ch., with the 



262 MUNICH. 

royal tombs ; the equestrian statue of Lewis f . ; the 
War Office ; the Library (10-12 daily), - — a Florentine 
building with fine statues and an imposing stairway, 
1,000,000 vols., 25,000 MSS., and literary curios- 
ities, — the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer- 
books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, tbe oldest 
Niebelungenlied MS., etc. ; tbe Ludwigskirche, a 
splendid ch. in Italian style, with Cornelius's Last 
Judgment and other frescos ; and a great square, with 
statues, bounded by the Priests' Seminary, the Max- 
Joseph School and the University (1,400 students). 
Beyond the Gate of Victory is the Academy of Art, 
with figures of Castor and Pollux at the entrance. 
From the Max-Joseph Platz (on which are the 
Theatre, Royal Palace, Post Office arid Max-Joseph's 
Statue) the handsome Maximilian-Strasse, % M. 
long, runs to the Isar, by tiie Four-Seasons Hotel, the 
Government buildings, a long square with statues 
(one of the Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the 
old National Museum, to the handsome Maximilia- 
neum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and 
statuary. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) is 
118 ft. high inside, aud has towers 357 ft. high, and 30 
windows 72 ft. high, several monuments, and a captured 
Turkish flag. St. Michael's Ch. has a noble dome, and 
Thorwaldsen s monument to Eugene Beauharnais, vice- 
roy of Italy The Allerheiligenkirche is a magnificent 
Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and frescos on 
gold ground. St. Boniface, an imitation of a 5th- 
century basilica, is a very beautiful 4-aisled ch., with 
round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of 
gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof- timbers, royal tombs, 
and many frescos by Hess . The statue of Maximilian I 
was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured 
Turkish cannon. Near it is ihe mediaeval Wittelsbach 
Palace, — The Academy of Science, in the old Jesuits 
College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals, coius. 



MUNICH. 263 

dasts, etc. See also the statues of Schiller, Gluck, 
Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; the Marian 
Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured 
gun-metal, to 30,000 Bavarians who died in the Russian 
war ; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhauser 
Gates ; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of 
models (daily, 1-6) ; the Museum of Schwanthaler's 
works ; the great beer-gardens (especially the Hof- 
Brewery) ; and the splendid arcaded cemetery. 

The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 
19-3) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with 
24 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade 
frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of 
mediaeval art. The Museum contains 1,400 paintings, 
including fine works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian, 
Holbein, Durer, and Rubens. On the ground floor, 
300,000 engravings, 9,000 drawings, and cabinets of 
Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mk.). The 
New Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs., and 
Sat., 10-12 and 2-4), frescoed outside from Kaulbach's 
designs, contains 650 modern paintings (mostly of the 
Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The 
Glyptothek (free Mon., Wed. and PH., other days 
Imk.) is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly 
frescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek, 
Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of 
Canova, Thorwaldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the 
Corinthian Exhibition Building, where new Munich 
pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; and 
N. W. is the famous Stained-Glass Institution. The 
Propylaea Gate in the Konigz-Platz is a splendid 
copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens, built 
in 1862, and adorned with sculptures. To the west of 
this gate is the Schark Gallery, containing excellent 
collection of the works of modern German authors. 



264 OBER-AMMERGAU. — INNSBRUCK. 

The English Garden, laid out by Count Rumforc^ 
begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N.4M. You 
can drive through it to the Observatory, 1| M. 1% M. 
outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric 
colonnade containing busts of 80 national celebrities. 
Here stands the bronze Statue of Bavaria, 56 ft. high. 
Ascend into its head, whence there is a fine view. The 
royal chateau and deer-park Nymphenburg and the 
Porcelain factory are 3 M. W. of Munich. The Lake 
of Starnberg (15 M. ; rly. in 1 hr.) 12± X 3 M. in 
area, has fine rat. views, villas of wealthy Munichers, 
and several chateaux. 

Persons spending a day in Munich can obtain a good 
mid-day lunch, at Schleich's, 8 Brienner-Strasse. Operaa 
at Hof und NationaL-Theatre (prices low), Sun., Mon., 
Thurs. and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Ger- 
many, at 6.30 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St. 
Michael's, the Court church. 

To reach Ober-Ammergau take train to Mumau, 
11| M., whence carriage, passing the ancient abbey of 
ffital and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant 
summer-journey among Bavarian mts. and lakes, and 
into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides. 

Through the Tyrol to Italy. — From Munich to 
Verona, 286 M. (20-24 hrs. ; fares, 24 mk. 92 pf., 
18 mk., 11 mk. 91 pf.; to Innsbruck, 11 mk. 60 pf., 
8 mk. 5 pf., 5^mk.). The rly. leads by Rosenheim to 
Kufstein (Post Hotel), an ancient fortress command- 
ing the Tyrolese frontier ; and up the beautiful valley 
of the Inn ; by busy and picturesque old Sclrwaz, 
among rich iron and copper mines ; and Hall, whose 
ch. has a picture by Diirer. 

Innsbruck (Hotel de V Europe; Tirol; Stadt 
Munchen), the capital of the Tyrol (24,000 inh.), is 
beautifully situated in tte midst of nits.. 6-8,000 ft 



THE TYROL. 265 

high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On 
the wooden bridge which gives name to the town, 
Hofer's Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's 
Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). Hofer, 
the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the 
French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at 
Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck's 
Franciscan Ch., under a splendid monument. In the 
same ch. is the monument (1513-83) of the Emperor 
Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcopha- 
gus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24 
exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sac- 
ristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of 
Sweden abjured Protestantism in this ch. in 1654. See 
also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa ; the Golden 
Roof; the University ; the Triumphal Arch ; the in- 
teresting museum and picture-gallery; the ancient 
Capuchin Monastery ; the wealthy Abbey of Wilteni 
and the fine old castle of Ambras (13th century). 

The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses trie 
Brenner Pass, 4,588 ft. high, the water-shed between 
the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of 
Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. From Sterzing 
the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes 
semi-Italian Brixen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital, 
with many chs. and cloisters ; Bozen {Hotel Victoria ; 
Kaiserkrone), frequented by invalids, and in one of the 
finest Tyrolese glens, with grand excursions to Meran, 
etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent (Eitropa) , once an Etrus- 
can town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now 
rich in old towers, ruined castles, marble palaces, a 
grand 13th-century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria 
Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held 
its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Roveredo, on the Adige. 
Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to 
Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala. 



266 ULM. — STUTTGART. 

Switzerland may be reached directly from Munich, by rly. to 
Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Horn unshorn, 
and rly. to Zurich (lares, to Lindau, 17 mks. 70 pf., llf mks., 
7 mks' 55 pf. ; to Zurich, 31f mks., 22 mks. 45 pf.). We rec- 
ommend the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augs- 
burg and Stuttgart, with a de'tour to Nuremberg, Baireuth, 
etc. ; and from Nuremberg or "Wiirzburg to Heidelberg. 

Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, 
Heidelberg. 

Rly. in ih-2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg {Bai- 

erischerhof; Kaiserhof; Drei Mohren, a very ancient 
hotel, in which Charles V. was entertained), once, 
a free imperial town of vast wealth, and the centre or 
trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 76,000 
inhab. There remain many picturesque old houses, 
frescoed outside; the ancient Palace in which the 
Augsburg Confession was given ; the venerable chs. of 
St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathham (1616-20), 
with its. Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathedral 
(995), with handsome cloisters ; and the frescoed Fug- 
gerhaus, the home of the richest merchants of 16th- 
century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal, 
the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures. 
It is 2-3 hrs. (6 fl. 80 kr., 4 fi. 55 kr., 2 ft. 90 kr.) to 
Uim (Hotel Bahnhof, Munster, Goldener Lowe, 
Baumstark), a fortress of Wurtemburg (37.000 inh.), 
on the Danube. The Gothic Cathedral ( 1377) has im- 
mense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 
137 ft. high. Grand view of the Alps from the tower 
(528 ft. high). Rly. to Lake Constance in 4-5 hrs, 
Rly. from Ulra across Wiirtemberg (2 J— 4 hrs.) to 
Stuttgart (Marquardt; Royal; Silber; Dierlamm) 
capital of Wiirtemburg (250,000 inhab.), beautifully 



CANNSTADT. — NUREMBERG. 267 

aituated among the hills and vineyards, and the home 
of a large Anglo-American colony. The Konigsbau 
(Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian 
porticos. Opposite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the 
new Palace (1746-1807), containing very fine sculp- 
tures (open daily, 9-6). Near by are the Theatre and; 
the Old Palace (1553-70); also the Stiftskirche 
(1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wiirtemberg; 
Thorwaldsen's statue of Schiller; and various na- 
tional buildings. The Royal Library (open daily, ex» 
cept Sat. and Sun.) contains 500.000 vols, and 3,800 
MSS. ; and the Museum of Art (open daily except 
Mon.) has a collection of pictures and statuary. The 
Konigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets. 
There are small but interesting museums, and good 
schools. The Museum of Bad Taste is well wortk 
a visit. Charming views from the Hassenberg, 
UhlandshOhe, and Schillersh5he. Visit Stadt-Garten. 
The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends 
over 2 M., to Cannstadt ( Vier Jahreszeiten ; Bahru 
hof; Bar), on the Neckar, with warm saline and cha- 
lybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. See 
the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on 
the heights ; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma. 
The grave of Freiligrath is here. There are several 
other notable excursions to be made from Stuttgart. 

From Augsburg (fares, 12 mks. 60 pf., 9 mks., 5§ 
inks.), or from Stuttgart, via Crailsheim and Ansback 
CL9 mks. 70 kr., 13 mks. 85 kr.), go to 

Nuremberg {Wiltelsbach ; Victoria; Goldener 
Adler ; Wurtembergerhof ; Grand), a delightful 
old town (140,000 inhabitants), famous for its 
quaint mediaeval houses, oriel windows, and toy 
factories, and the centre of trade between North 
and South Germany. At one time there flourished 
here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Krafft, the carvers; the 
teacher and disciples of Albert Diirer, and the great 



268 NUREMBERG. 

master himself; and Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poee. 
The two latter are buried in St. John's Cemetery ; their 
houses are religiously kept; ttauch's statue of Diirer 
stands in the Milk Market, and Haus Sachs's monu- 
ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which 
encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4 
largest of which were built by Unger. Take a walk 
around these walls, and also note the singular old 
bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at 
St. Rochus, and his house is preserved. The finest c'hfj 
is St. Lawrence, a red-sandstone structure (1287-1477), 
with a splendid W. portal and rose-window, Kratft's 
wonderful ciborium, 66ft. high, and Yeit Stoss's wood 
carvings. See fountains outside. In the Goose Mar- 
ket is the ancient bronze fountain-figure of the Little 
Goose Man. The Frauenkirche has splendid facade, 
and rich old glass and works of art inside. Opposite 
is a tall Gothic column (1385-96), surrounded with 
statues of heroes. St. Selaldus, a 13th-century Gothic 
basilica, contains rare old paintings, and the famous 
Shrine of St. Sebaldus, "the most exquisite gem of 
German art," whose multitude of statues and carvings 
were made by Vischer and his sons (1506-19) Op- 
posite is St. Maurice, now a gallery containing many 
old German paintings. St. Egidius (1140) has an 
altar-piece by Van Dyck. The Germanic Museum, in 
an old Carthusian convent (beautiful cloisters), has a 
fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval relics and 
pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Maxi- 
milian collection of mediaeval antiquities; also, the 
Town Library (open daily, 9-12, 3-6), with 70,000 
vols, and 2.000 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle 
on a rock to the N., built in 10i4, and enlarged by 
Barbarossa in 1158, destroyed in 1420, and now par- 
tially restored. It is rich in ponderous towers, quaint 
chapels and antique halls. In main tower (adm. 20 



EATISBON.-WALHALLA.-KELHEIM. 269 

pf.) is a torture chamber, the chief instrument in 
which is an "Iron Virgin." Beautiful view from here 
over town and country. The Rathhaus contains 
many pictures. See also the new law-courts and the 
Schone Brunnen. 

Ratisbon (Maximilian; Gruner Kranz; National; 
Karmelitenbrau), called in German Regensburg, a very 
ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held 
from 1663 to 1808, is now Bavarian. There are many 
mediaeval houses, with armorial bearings still upon 
them, and with towers of defence (especially in Ambas- 
sadors'-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich facade 
and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave, 
129 ft. high ; also, fine monuments by Canova and 
Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th- 
century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old 
sculptures ; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Em- 
meran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, < 
has since 1812 been the palace of the Princes of Thurn 
and Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains many 
implements of torture. 

7 M. distant (steamboat or tramway), on a hill 
over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at 
a cost of $3,400,000) by King Lewis as a Temple of 
Tame. It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is 
of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric 
columns, and adorned in the pediments with Schwan- 
thaler's sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- 
ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The interior 
hall, 180 X 50 ft., decorated with friezes, contains 
6 Victory statues by Hauch,and 101 busts of illustrious 
Germans. View of Bavarian Forest and Alps. 

Kelheim, up the Danube, has the huge cupula! 
Hall of Liberation, built by King Lewis, 1842-63, to 
commemorate the Battle of Leipsic. It is lined with 



270 BAMBERG. - BAIREUTH. - HEIDELBERG. 

marble, and contains 34 Victory statues, of Carrara 
marble; while outside are 18 colossal statues. 
u Wurzburg (Bussischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace, 
a CathedraC (1189-1240), the Neumiinster Ch. (with 
tomb of Walther von der Vogelweide), the handsome 
Mariencapelle, and a university. Riy. (7 inks. 60 kr. 9 
5 mks. 5 kr., 3 mks. 20 kr.) to Baireuth, by 

Bamberg {Bamberger Hof), a hill-town, with a splen- 
did 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, rich in monu- 
ments and relics. The Lyceum, contains 2,600 MSS. 
In the Palace, Napoleon I. declared war against Prussia 
The rly. runs around the Pranconian Switzerland to 

Baireuth {Reichsadler ; Sonne ; Anker), the seat 
of Wagner's great theatre, and of an old opera house. 
Jean Paul Richter's house, statue, and tomb are here. 
See Wagner's house and grave, the Palaces, the 
war monument of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of 
the Eremitage and the Fantaisie (each 3 M. out). Ex- 
cursions into the Fichtelgebirge. 

Prom Wurzburg it is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 12 mks. 80 pf., 
8| mks., 5 mks. 45 pf.) to 

Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe ; Grand; Schrleder; 
Victoria, near stat. In town, Prms Carl; Perkeo ; 
Adler. On hill, Schlo ss and Bellevue), renowned for 
its history, its learned University, and its beautiful 
situation, where the mo untainous Neckar valley enters 
the great Rhine plain. The University (founded 1386) 
has valuable museums, and a library of 400,000 
vols. The buildings are homely. The Castle, 330 
ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1195 and 
added to by subsequent electors and kings. In 
1689 the French Gen. Melac, forced to retreat 
thence, burned and blew up the castle ; and the 
destruction was completed by lightning in 1764. 
It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid 
Renaissance Otto-Heinrichs building (1556) ; JPrie- 



SPIRES. — WORMS. 271 

Uriahs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing 
the great Tun (40,000 gallons) ; and other palaces, 
towers, and gardens. Erom the Konigsstuhl, 905 ft. 
above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the 
Rhine and Neckar valleys, the Black Eorest, Taunus a 
and Odenwald, and out to Strasbourg Cathedral. 

Spires, Worms, Baden, Strasbourg. 

It is a short ride., down the Neckar valley, to 

Mannheim (Deutscher Hof; Pfalzer Hof; Lehri), 
a town of 165,000 mhab. , on the Rhine, very regularly 
laid out, and adorned with a great palace and picture- 
gallery and several statues. Erne rly.-bridge across 
the Rhine, to Ludwigshcwen. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is 

Spires {Rheinischer Hof ; Wittelsbacher Hof), the 
capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (19,000 inhab.). 
The vast and imposing Romanesque Cathedral (open 
9-11, 2-6) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. 
Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German em- 
perors and 3 empresses were buried here. See new 
iagade and Emperor's Hall; the magnificent modern 
frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwan thaler. 
A handsome Memorial Church has recently been 
erected here to commemorate the protests uttered 
against the decree of the diet of Speyer in 1529, 
whence came the designation " Protestant." 

Worms {Alter Kaiser; Hartmann) % § hr. N. of 
Ludwigshaven, successively capital of Burgundian and 
Eranconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a de. 
caclent Hessian town. The splendid Romanesque Ca- 
thedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately 
interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred events 
sung of in the Niebelungeulied ; and on one side is the 
Renaissance HeiVsche Bans, on the site of the palace 
where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles Y. 



272 DARMSTADT. — CARLSRUHE. — BADENc 

and the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther s Monument 
(built 1859-68) consists of his colossal statue, around 
and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Protes- 
tant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work. 

Darmstadt (Traube ; Britannia), the hand- 
some capital of Hesse (64,000 inhab.), has in its Palace 
a library of 600,000 vols., and a noble gallery of 700 
paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse 
is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 ink.). 

From Heidelberg,2 hrs. (5mks. 5pf., 3mks. 60pf.) to 

Carlsruhe (Gruner JSof; Hotel Grosse), the capital 
of Baden (90,000 inhab.), with handsome modern 
buildings, squares, and monuments. The streets 
radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace 
and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art contains 
6-700 pictures, and other collections. From hand- 
some rly. stat. 1 hr. (3 mks. 40 pf., 2 mks. 35 pf.- 
change cars at Oos) to 

Baden-Baden (Victoria; Badischer; Englischerj 
Messmer; Darmstadt), in a glen amitl the foothills of 
the Black Forest. 40,000 foreigners come here yearly, 
to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild 
climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the min- 
eral waters. Yast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Con- 
versation-House, and Bath-House. The lofty New 
•Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer home 
of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several 
times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally 
high. Excursions thence into the Black Forest. 
Rly. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to 

Strasbourg (Maison Rouge ; Hotel de la Ville de 
(Paris; Pfeiffer; National), the capital of Al- 
sace-Lorraine (140,000 inn.), terribly bombarded in 
the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral, built 1015- 
1439, has magnificent facade by Erwin von Steinbach 



STRASBOURG. — FREIBURG. 273 

(1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (ascent, l|mk.), 
whence an extensive view is gained, even to the 
Jura Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft. 
high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender 
and richly carved pillars, and Erwin's tomb and 
pillar, is impressive. The celebrated Astronomical 
Clock is in the S. transept. The' bombardment of 
1870, which destroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture 
Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new Uni- 
versity, now specially favored by Germany, is at the 
Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 800,- 
000 vols. In St. Thomas Gh. (10 pf.) is a vast marble 
monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 year© 
to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gut- 
enberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnifi- 
cently. Many statues on the squares. Strasbourg 
is an important strategic point, and vast fortifica- 
tions have recently been erected by the Germans. 

From Strasbourg go to Basle (fares, Hi m ks., 7 
mks. 68 pf., 4 mks. 90 pf.) along the Black Forest. 

Freiburg {Zahringer ; Victoria ; Europe) is a 
pretty forest-town of 54,000 inhab., and the capital 
of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many 
wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone 
Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a remarkable tower, 397 
ft. high ; a rich portal, with statuary ; and an inte- 
rior (342ft. X 102ft. and 85ft. high) lighted firm five 
stained windows, and containing many old monu- 
ments, paintings, etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12 ; 
fee at choir, 50 pf . ; to tower, 60 pf .). The Kavfhaus, 
on the S., is a handsome 15th-century building. 
The new Victory Monument chiefly honors Gen. von 
Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of 
pure water in the streets, and the pretty pebble pave- 
ments. Climb the Bchlossberg. Grand view over 
Black Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland. 
From Freiberg to Basle, 2 hrs.; 5| mks., 4 inks, 



274 BASLE. 



SWITZERLAND. 



T^OR direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss 
■*■ money is in francs, like French. The Swiss 
season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15 
elsewhere. Return and excursion tickets on all Swiss 
liys. Pensions (large summer boarding-houses) at 
all chief resorts, $.80-$2.00 a day. 

Basle, Zurich, Lake Constance. 

Basle (Trois Hois; Metropole; Bauer: Scliweizer- 
liof; Victoria; Eider), a town of 125,000 inhab., on 
Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many 
handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades. 
The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010-19, and re- 
stored after destructions by fire and earthquake, is an 
imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, now 
Protestant (Wed., 2-4, free; other times -|fr.) Ancient 
statuary on facades ; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. 1$ 
rich and beautiful interior see the roodloft (1381) 
stained windows; Chapel of St. Nicholas; font (1465): 
pulpit (1486); tombs of Erasmus and of Empress 
Anna; sculptures on N. portal and around choir. 
Very fine cloisters (1362-1487), leading to the Pfalz 
terrace, Historical Museum (Sun. and Wed. free; 
closed on Monday; other days £ fr.) has fragments 
of the 15th century fresco of The Dance of Death. 

The Museum (|fr„ ; Sun. and Wed. free), has many 
historic and scientific curiosities, and the largest Swiss 
picture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The 
Passion, etc.) and works of modern Germans. Also 
University Library (200,000 vols.) and a great hall. 
The Mission House, for education of missionaries, is 



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SCHAFFHAUSEN. 275 

(3 of the powerful local theological influences, and 
] > an interesting museum (open daily). See the Town 
.ill (1508); the Spahlen Gale (1400); the quaint 
mtains; and St. Elizabeth 1 \s Church, with view 
: m tower. 

Basle to Lucerne, direct, 55J M. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 

Ir. 60c, 4 fr. 40c. It is better, however, to go via 

I ) Falls of the Rhine and Lake Constance," bv rly. up 

i i Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9 J fr., 6 fr. 30 c, 

r. 5c.) to 

Schaffhausen (National ; Mutter; Riese) a pic- 

I'esque town, with quaint, old frescoed houses; a 

j 11 with 6 gates, and old towers; a massive castle 

564); and a Romanesque Cathedral (1101). The bell 

ilcribed Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgurafrango, 

t in 1486, is in room near cloisters. The Falls of 

\z Rhine may be visited hence (carriage, 2 fr. 40 c, 

(tram) . They are near Neuhausen stat. (Schweizer- 

1 ?, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). Here 

Rhine, 380-400 ft. wide, descends 100 ft., in 

n„Mds, whirlpools and 3 falls, over limestone ledges. 

ii'is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen 

moonlight, or under its morning or late-afternoon 

ibows. You may ascend the rock which divides 

falls (3 fr.); or view them from Laufen castle 

fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform 

i)uld be visited. The falls are illuminated summer 

tbnings by colored lights, for which a small charge 

nade in the hotel bill. 

Constance (Insel ; Ilecht), a decadent town of 

S!000 inhab. The Cathedral (1502) has notable 

siined glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and 

%i stone on which John Huss is reported to have 

od when sentenced. W. of the town is a stone 

.rking where Huss and Jerome of Prague were 

rned alive (1415-16). In the frescoed Kaufhans 

fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414-18). See 






276 ZURICH. 

Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen's Ch., and former 
Dominican monastery, on an island, now converted 
into the Insel Hotel; with Romanesque cloisters. 

Ziirich (Hotel Baurau Lac; Bellevue; National)., 
on the swift green river Limmat, at the foot of the 
beautiful Lake Zurich. Remarkable view (espe- 
cially by moonlight) from bridge, of villages, villas, 
embowered spires, and distant Alps. Ziirich is 
famous for learned schools, beautiful environs, 
and conclaves of political exiles. See the Ro- 
manesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine 
cloisters and statue of Charlemagne; Town Hall; 
the handsome Quai-Bruclce (1883) ; Hohe Promenade, 
with fine view; Library, with rare MSS. ; Polytech- 
nic School, splendid view from terrace ; Art Building, 
St. Augustine's Ch.; St. Peter s Ch., where Lavater 
preached 23 years; Arsenal, with Tell's bow, Zwing- 
lius's battle-axe, etc. ; and Botanic Gardens, with 
busts of de Candolle and other botanists. 

In the Platz Promenade, in the triangle between 
the Sihl and Limmat rivers, is the Swiss National 
Museum (open daily ex. Mon. ; free in afternoon, i 
fr. in morning). This contains a miscellaneous colj 
lection of objects illustrating Swiss history, art, and 
industrial progress; the collection of stained glass is 
particularly fine. The Tonhalle, on the lake w. of 
the Quai-Briicke, has good restaurant; concert here 
every evening. 

Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in 
Latin Lacus Brigantinus) is very pretty in summer, 
but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is 
42x8 M. in area, and 158^ M. aronnd; very deep; 
with green water, abounding in trout ; flat, or undu- 
lating shores ; and distant views of the Alps of Vorarlj 
berg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen ovet 
but 1 5 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavariaj 
Wtirtemberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense 
traffic between the lake-ports. 



THE SPLUGEN PASS. 277' 

The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, 6 M. S. W. of Zii- 
rich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in some- 
places of 7 in 100 ft. (3 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. ; return tickets, 
5 fr., 3 fr.). The view includes Zurich and its lake, the 
Li in mat Valley, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jung, 
frau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, A r osges, and Black- 
Forest peaks. Magnificent views from road up. 

The Spliigen Pass. 

Ziirich (or Rohrschach) is a good point from which 
to visit the Spliigen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its 
summit, although it is not the best route into Italy. 
Go by steamer (be careful to start from the right pier;. 
2-2| hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely 
Lake of Ziirich, 25 1 X %\ M. in area, with transpar- 
ent bluish-green water reflecting the chain of happy 
shore-villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Gla- 
rus, to Rapperschwyl {Hotel du Lac ; Schwan), which 
has the Lindenhof, Capuchin monastery, deer-park^ 
and ancient castle, containing the Polish National Mu» 
seum. Rly. from Zurich to Rapperschwyl, 22-£ M. ; 
fares, 4 fr. 70 c, 2 fr. 20 c. ; to Coire, 4-5 hrs. ; fares, 
12 fr. 30 c, 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Ziirich 
from Rapperschwyl to Schmerikon ; ascends the Linth 
,valley : runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake 
of Wallenstadt for 12 M. ; enters upper Rhine val- 
ley ; and runs S., through grand scenery, to 

Ragatz (Quellenhqf and Raga-tz, both united with 
the Casino; Schiveizerhof; Tamina; Bristol) favorite 
summer-resort at the mouth of the wonderful Tamina 
gorge, 2^ M. up which are the hot saline baths of Pfiijfers, 
amid very impressive rocky scenery, and cliffs 6-700 ft. 
High. A cable tramcar runs to the springs every ■£ hr., i 
round trip If r. 30c. These waters have been prized for 



278 COIRE. 

800 years. They are conducted to the baths at Ragat^ 
The philosopher Schelling is buried at Ragatz. 

The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th 
century Roman tower of May en f eld, and many pretty 
villages, vineyards, and castles, to 

Coire (Stei'nbocTc; Lukmanier), the capital of the 
Canton of the Grisons (12,000 inhab.), surrounded 
with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nest- 
ling under the Mitt erib erg. The Cathedral (12th cen- 
tury) contains a fine High Altar of carved wood, 
dating from 1490, and rare Roman antiquities. The 
Episcopal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded 
in 4th century). Grand views from the Rosenhugel 
and other hills. 

The Splugen Pass is reached twice daily by rly. 
from Coire to Thusis (1 hr. ; 17 M. ; 5 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. 
20 c), thence by diligence (4 hrs. ; 16 M. ; 6 fr. 05 c. ; 
coupe, 7 fr. 90 c). Thusis ( Via Mala; Post Hotel) 
is a centre of grand excursions. Many tourists 
walk from here up through the Via Mala, a 
tremendous gorge between calcareous cliffs 1,600 
feet high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below. 
Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and 
land-slips in this " Bad Way." The safe new road, with 
its tunnels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone 
dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high ; here the 
scenery is grandest) makes a noise like a cannon. 

The verdant farms of the Valley of Schams open out 
above ; and the road passes Zillis, with its venerable 
ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch village ; traverses the 
wild Roffha Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades ; 
comes into view of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello 
peaks ; and reaches Splugen {Hotel Bodenhaus), 
where the diligences all stop for dinner. 

Diligences twice daily from Splugen to Chiayenna 
(10 fr., coupe 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to Colico (3 fr., 2^ fr. # 



BERNAKDINO PASS. 279 

1-J- fr. It is about 7 M. from Splugen to the top of 
the pass, 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier line, with 
Surettahomer (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schnee- 
horn (10, 748 ft. ; Milan and Suabia are visible from 
it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of 
zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the 
vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna (Con-- 
radi), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; thence 
rly. down a mountain-girdled valley by Riva to* 
Colico, on Lake Como. 

By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to 
Mesocco (lOfr. 25), thence by electric ry. to Bellin- 
zona (5f .5.) The road ascends the desolate Rheinwald 
valley 8-9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high), 
surrounded by Alps and glaciers ; and thence de- 
scends by long zigzags, to San Bernardino,, 
Mesocco, Cama, Roveredo and other charming 
Italian-Swiss villages, amid very grand scenery,. 
From Bellinzona, rly. 14 M. to Locarno (f hr. ; 2 fr„ 
30 c, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. 15 c), whence rly. to Lake 
Como and Milan. 

The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent valley's, 
3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide,, 
between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and glaciers. 
It is divided into the Upper Engadine and the Lower 
Engadine; the former extends 24 M. from the 
Malaja Pass to Punt Ota, a bridge crossing a small 
brook emptying into the Inn River ; the latter, about 
33 M. long, extends from Punt Ota to Martinsbruck 
on the Tyrolese frontier. The Upper Engadine, near 
St. Moritz, is much frequented, especially by English 
and Americans, and for those who need a cool, bracing 
air it is a wonderful health resort, being particularly 
adapted to the outdoor treatment of consumption. 

From Coire the Albula railway (59£ M. ; 4 hrs. j 
23 fr. 25, 15 fr. 50) runs through picturesque moun- 
tain scenery, over numerous viaducts, and through. 
41 tunnels, one of them 4f M. in length, to 



280 PONTRESINA - LUCERNE 

St. Moritz {Kulm ; Belvedere; Palace; Grand; 
JSchweizerhof), the highest settlement in the valley 
(6,000 ft.), a village of 2,000 inhabitants. Here is 
buried the founder of the Children's Aid Society of 
NewYork, Mr. Charles Loring # Brace. There are grand 
mountain views from several points in the villnge. 
'Three miles distant (electric tram, fare 20c.) are the 

Biths of St. Moritz {Neues Stahlbad; Victoria; 
Bellevue; Engadinerhof; Kurhaus; Du Lac), fam- 
ous for chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic 
_acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround 
the place, and the air is invigorating to invalids. 

Pontresina (Roseg; Weisses Kreuz; Languard), 
7 M. from St. Moritz, is the starting-point for excur/ 
sions in the Bernina chain. The season is short, 
prices high, and society good. 

The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,657 ft. high, is 
crossed by daily dili^enc* s from Samaden, in 5£ hrs. 
{9 fr. 89) via Pontresina, to Poschiavo, whence elec- 
tric tram to Tirano; then rly. to Colico, on Lake 
Como (3 hr. ; 22 fr. 75, 1 / f r. 40). 

Lucerne, the Rigi, the St. Gothard Route 

Rly. from Basle (3£ hrs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr. 60 c, 
4 fr. *70 c); or from Zurich, by Zug (6i- fr., 4fr. 55c, 
Si fr.); or from Berne (11 fr., 7i fr., 5 fr. 30 c); to 

Lucerne (Schweizerhof; Beaurivage; National; 
Swan and Rigi; de V Europe; Tivoli; Lnzernerhof; 
Jtebstock; Villa Maria; Schiller; Victoria; du Lac; 
Sauvage; Engel), beautifully situated at the outlet of 
the most lovelv lake in Switzerland, between the 
Pilatus and Rigi, and facing the Alps of Un and 
Engelberg. The Town Hall has ancient carvings; 
and in the Stiftskirche see grand organ, carvings, 
stained glass. Thorwaldsen's Lion of Lucerne is a 
statue of a dying lion, 28ft. long, cut in the face of a 
cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of the Swiss 



THE RIGI. — LAKE OP LUCERNE. 281 

Guard, who died in defence of the Tuileries in 1792. 
Capell Bridge, built 1303, over river Re-uss, has 154 
©Id paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's 
Chapel (12 century). The Water Tower ; according 
to tradition, was once a light-house (lucerna), and 
gave name to the town. It now contains the archives. 
The Muhlen Bridge is ornamented with 30 singular 
pictures of the Dance of Death. See also Museum 
and Library (80,000 vols.) ; Stauffer's Alpine animals 
(1 fr.); the Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and the Jesuit ch. 
The Schweizerhof Quay is a beautiful promenade with 
many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake. 

The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, the 
chief peak, the Kulm, being 5,905 ft. high (4,470 ft. 
above the lake), and nearly surrounded by the lakes of 
Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz. The Kulm is ascended 
by a mt. rly., like that on Mt. Washington, and has 
several hotels (Rigi- Kulm ; Sonne; Rigi- Staff el; Rigi- 
Kaltbad), whose landlords have been compelled by 
criticism to lower their prices and improve their man- 
ners. Engage rooms in advance in July or Aug. ; for 
then hundreds come up here to spend the night and 
see the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is 
but 2£ hrs. from Lucerne to the top, by steamer to 
Vitznau, and mt. rly. thence (4| M. ; 7 fr.), Circular 
ticket, good 3 days, from Zurich by Zug to the Rigi- 
Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to Lucerne, and back 
to Zurich, costs 22 fr. 40 c, 19| fr., 16 fr. 70 c. From 
the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, 
the Sentis, Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, 
etc. ; elsewhere, the Juras, V'osges, Suabian Mts., 
Black Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13 
lakes. The Rigi-Scheidegg (Kurhaus), command- 
ing a very noble view, is reached by branch rly. 

From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. ; 2 f r. 20 c. , 1 f r. 
10 c.) to Fliielen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne 
( Viej*waldstdtter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Can' 



282 ALTORF. — AMSTEG. 

tons), the grandest in Europe, 1,433 ft. high, 25 M. 
Jong, and 1-4 M. wide. It forms an irregular cross, 
between vast mts. From the summer hotels at the 
numerous villages — Beckenried, Gersan, Brunnen, etc. 
— fine nit. excursions may be made. Just beyond 
Seelisberg are the sacred springs of the Rutli, on whose 
meadow Eiirst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss 
liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its 
romantic chapel, on the ledge where Tell leaped ashore 
from Gessler's boat. Marvellous scenery thence -to the 
head of the lake. 

Superb views are had from several pom? $ near the 
city. The finest is from the Sonnenherg (20 min. by 
electric car and inclined rly. ; round trip 3 fr.) There 
is a golf course here near the hotel. A fine view of 
the mountains, the lake, and the town is also had 
from Criltsch, an elevation to the west, reached by 
tram in 15 min. (return ticket 90 c). Another point 
where there is a good view is the Drei Linden, 20 
min. by carriage along a good road. 

Fluelen {Adler ; Kreuz; Tell) is the port of 
XJri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf {Tell; Sehlussel / 
Ldice), Uri's capital, in a mountain-walled valley, 
and the reputed scene of Tell's shooting the apple. The 
site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell 
near by. His birthplace, near Burglen, is occupied by 
a frescoed chapel. 9 M. beyond Altorf is Anisteg 
{Stem; Kreuz ; Hirscli), where the Pass begins. This 
was the chief route o#er the Alps until 1800. The 
road was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander 
than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs 
under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long, 
built 1872-82, at a cost of over $10,000,000. 

Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Reu'ss 
valley, with the huge Bristenstock on the 1. ; over the 



ANDERMATT. - FURCA PASS. 283 

fofty Pfaffensprung bge. ; by Wasen {Hotel des Alpes} 
and Wattingen, near Rohrbach fall and the Teufel- 
\>tein; GescJienen, at the mouth of the tunnel; up steep 
ascents, and over the Devil' 's Bridge, where French, 
Austrians, and Russians fought in 1799 ; through 
the Timer Loch tunnel, into Urseren valley; and up 
to Andermatt (Bellevue; du Tourist e; St. Gothard; 
Oheralp; Krone), among high and aridmts. crowned 
With snow. See chapel, and mineral collections. 9 M. 
distant is the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6,936 ft. 
high), whence road descends steeply by the Hospice* 
to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan. 

It is better to return from the top of the Pass, 
spend the night at Andermatt, and go over the 

Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken. 

From Andermatt diligences run in 5-6 hrs. (21 M. ; 
S.|-fr. ; coupe, 10 fr. 20 c), through Hospenthal (Mey- 
irhof ; Lowe), 2£ M. out; and by a zigzag route up 
the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of 
the Furca Pass (Hotel de la Furca), 7,992 ft. high; 
past the grand and lofty Galenstock and Farkahorn; 
and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of 
ice, 10,450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy 
peaks, and gives birth to the famous river Rhone. 
Longfellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata- 
ract, 2,000 ft. high, and many miles broad. You may 
go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs. ; lO^fr. ; coupe, 
12 fr. 75 c), whence rly. to Visp, en route to Zermatt. 
It is better to pass the night at the Hotel du Glacier du, 
Rhone; and at morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the 
steep grassy Maienwand; up over the Grimsel Pass 
(7,103 ft. high); by the Lake of the Dead, in which 
the soldiers killed in the battles between the French. 



284 KEIEINGEN. — BRIENZ. 

and Austriaus hereabouts, in 1799, were buried; down 
the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky 
mt. basin of the Grimselgrund, near the Agassizhorn 
&nd the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 hrs. from the Unter- 
Aar Glacier, where Prof, xigassiz abode in 1841 (ex- 
cursion to top of Little Sidelhorn, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4fr.) ; 
down the Aare ravine to the Handeok Falls (i fr.) ; 
where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft., in a deep 
rocky gorge ; by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn mead- 
ows ; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads to 

Meiring-en (Sauvage; Meiringenlwf; Couronne; 
De VOurs) is beautifully situated in the Hasli valley 
near the Reichenbach Falls. It was almost totally de* 
stroyed by fire in October, 1891, but has been rebuilt. 
From behind the Chalet 1'Ami you can descend into 
the canon of the Aare. It is 5^ hrs. hence to Han- 
deck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.). 

The Brimig Pass is one of the most frequented. 
Lucerne to Aljmacli (whence Pilatus may be 
ascended) by steamer (1^ hrs.), and thence by 
rail (10 fr.) to Brienz, via Meiringen. You pass 
the pretty hamlet of Sarnen, in a rich valley be- 
tween high mts. ; SacJiseln, with a saint's relics 
in its ch. ; over the Briinig Pass, 3,395 ft. high 
(Hotel Brunigkulm); and then downward, with 
magnificent mt. views, to the Aare, where you 
meet the valley road. "We advise the tourist to 
go from Lucerne to the top of the St. Gothard, 
and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir- 
ingen. You may go thence to the top of the 
Briinig in a morning. 

Brienz (Bar; Weisses Kreuz) , on the mountain- 
Walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are employed 
here in wood-carving. The lake is 7^x2^ m., and 
the deepest in Switzerland. Jt is traversed by the 



INTERLAKEN. — GRINDELWALD. 285 

«rlntish-green waters of the Aare. The Giessbach is 
a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148 
ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and 
illuminated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads 
from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the 
hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By 
steamer in 10 min. from Brienz; thence by footpath 
in 20 min. Steamer from Brienz, 7 times daily (2fr., 
Ifr.), to Interlaken. 

The Bernese Oberland 

Interlaken (Victoria; Metropole; Jungfrau; Des 
Alpes; Belvedere; Jungfrauhlick; Sonne; Cerf; de la 
Gare ; OberUinder ; Bellevue; Stadtliaus; National, 
Deutscherhof). in the beautiful glen bet-ween the lakes 
f>i Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists 
during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the 
best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Ober- 
land. People remaining 2-3 weeks in this great town 
of hotels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the 
pensions at 5-6.fr. JSee once magnificent Hoheweg 
promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the Kursaal, with 
semi-daily concerts ; the old wooden village of TJnter- 
seen; the ruined castles of Unsprunnen and WeissenaW, 
tod the precipitous Harder int., where many fatal 
accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are 
crowded with people of fashion ; and parties, balls, and 
receptions continually occur. 

Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are printed 
in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are ad- 
hered to by drivers. Local guide-books (in English) 
describe routes and localities. Grindelwald (Bar ; 
Eiger ; Adler ; Du Glacier) is reached by railway or 
private conveyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in 



286 LAUTERBRUNNEN.-MURREN. 

a yalley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Mettenberg> 
and Eiger. 

Lauterbrunnen (Steinboch; Staubbach) is 7£ M, 
from Inteiiaken, in a narrow rock-girt glen, close tG 
the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but 
unbroken fall 980 ft. high. Farther up the glen are 
the grand JSchmadribach Fall and the far- viewing 
Steinberg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is 
gained by climbing (2f hrs.) to Miirren (Grand 
Hotel des Alpes; Miirren; Jungfrau; Eiger), a ham- 
let 5,347 ft. high, on the edge of a cliff which fronts 
on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. The trip 
from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren can now be made 
by rly. (return tickets, 6 f r. ) . Large English colony 
here, July-September, with church. Grand views of 
Jungfrau, Eiger, Breithorn, Monch, etc. Excursion 
thence to the Schingelhorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide neces- 
sary; return, 3 hrs.). 

Prom Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the Wen- 
gernalp ; by the. Hotel de la Jungfrau, whence is the 
finest view of the jungfrau, 13,671 ft. high ; ovei 
the Little Scheidegg (Hotel Bellevue), 6,788 ft. 
high, with magnificent views; and down to Grindel- 
wald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.); or one can go (less 
desirable) by rly. 

Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (7£ hrs. walk, 
or horseback ride), by the grand Heiclienbach Fall ; 
the Baths of Mosenlaui (hotel), near the Rosenlaui 
Glacier; over the Great Scheidegg pass, 6,434 ft. 
high; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. 
Grand views of Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and 
from the low Grindelalp. Grindelwald to Lauter- 
brunnen or Interlaken. 

The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from Inter- 
laken (Interlaken to Thun, 4-5 times dailv, in 
li hr.; 4 fr. 10 c.), .12 X 2£ M. in area, and 1,837 
ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banks, 
back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves 



SPIEZ— BERNE 287 

Darlingen, fine retrospect of the Monch, Eiger, and 
Schreckhorn. 

The Gemini . — From Spiez (Spiezerhof, lake baths ; 
Schonegg), road into the Frutigthal (2^- hrs. ; also from 
Thun) and to Kandersteg ( Victoria). Ky. to Frutigen; 
1 -horse carriage, Spiez to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse 
carriage, 18 and 35 fr. From Kandersteg a bridle path 
leads over the Gemmi pass (7,553 ft. high), amid mag- 
nificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Xjeuk 
(23J M ; guide, 7 f r. ; horse, 20 fr. ; horse to top of 
pass, 15 fr.) The steamer touches at Spiez, Oherhofen, 
etc., and backs down the Aare to Scherzligen close to 
Thun {Hotel de Thun; Bellevue; Kreuz; Krone), a 
prettily situated village, with quaint street-architec- 
ture; a castle built in. 1182; the Federal Military 
School; and numerous fashionable summer hotels, 
ftly. to Berne, 1 hr. (3fr. 85c, 2fr. 35c, Ifr. 70c.) 

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva. 

Berne (Bemerhof zmd Bellevue, both with fine views 
of the Bernese Alps ; Schweierzhof; De France ; Bar; 
Storch; Du Jura; Ffistern), the capital of Switzerland 
(68,000 inhab.), on a sandstone peninsula high over 
the Aare, has pleasant arcaded streets and mediaeval 
houses and fountains, and is a favorable place to rest 
after journeying in the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral 
(1598), with quaint carvings and famous organ ; Cathe- 
dral-Terrace > viewing the entire Bernese range, Wetter- 
horn, Finster-Aarhorn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., 
and the beautiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpen- 
Glow; statues of Rudolph, von Erlach and Berthold 
von Zahringen; Museum (open daily, \ fr.) of natural 
history and antiquities ; University, 400 students, and 
rich library \ liathhaus, built 1406 , Bear-Fit, witii 



288 FKEIBURG.— LAUSANNE. 

bears, maintained at the cost of the municipality j 
Arsenal, and military curiosities ; Clock-Tower, 
built in 1191, with quaint automata ; Corn-Hall, 
over great wine cellars; Ogre Fountain, etc. The Fed- 
eral Buildings (open 9.30-11.30, 2-4, free) are two 
noble Florentine edifices (1857 and 1892). The two 
houses of the national legislature meet here. From 
roof of older building there is a famous view of the 
Alps and city. There are beautiful views also from 
the Schanzli and the Huge, near Berne. Visit His- 
torical Museum (£ fr.), opened 1894, and the Kunst 
Museum, mostly modern paintings. From Berne by 
ry. in-li hr. (fares 3£fr., 2£fr., Ifr. 85c.) to 

Freiburg {Hotel du Faucon; Suisse; Tete Noire), 
founded (like Berne) by Berthold von Zahringen in 
1175, and standing on cliffs over the river Sarine, a 
nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Church 
(built 12S3), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800 
pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (con- 
cert at dusk, summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16th-century 
Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stairway to 
the lower town ; and the Suspension Bridge, 800 ft. long 
and 168 ft. above the river. 

The descent hence to Lausanne (12 M.) is one of 
the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take seat on I, 
side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque 
shores. Exquisite view after emerging from the tunnel 
beyond Chexbres (the stat. for Vevay). 

Lausanne {Riche Mont ; Beau Sejour; Victoria; 
Beau Site; Du Grand Pont ; Gibbon, where Gibbon 
wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over 
the lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and 
place of residence (47,000 inhab.). See Gothic Ca- 
thedral (Protestant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and 
others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Prot- 
estantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps from 



GENEVA. — FERNEY. 289 

the market-place ; and the plain symmetrical interior 
is 300 feet long. The old Episcopal Castle (now 
Cantonal Council-Hall) commands a broad prospect. 
See the two museums. From the Signal, half an 
hour walk out, the best view is gained. 

Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of 
Morges, Nyon, arid Coppet, to 

Geneva (Grand Hotel de la Baix ■■; desBerguesf 
de Russie; Riehemond; de V Univers; Beau Rivage; 
d'Angleterre; Bellevue; National; Metropole ; de 
VEcu; du Bare; du Lac; de la Boste; de Boris), a 
city of 90,000 inhab., in a pretty situation at the foot 
of the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two 
parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone; 
The favorite promenade, the Mont-Blanc Bridge^ 
crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island^ 
on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, 
lined with handsome buildings and hotels, 
face the river and lake. Beautiful views of 
Mont Blanc f*om the Quai da Mont - Blanc 
and the pipr beyond. The Cathedral (Protestant), 
"the St. Peter's of the North," is a plain 13th- 
century building (50 c), containing several old 
monuments. Here Calvin preached. His house is 
close by ; and his grave is in Blain-Balais cemetery. 
Rousseau's birthplace was No. 40 Grand Rue. See 
Musee Fol, antiquities; Musee Rath (daily, 11-3), 
with many paintings and casts ; Florentine Hotel de 
Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; Na- 
tional Monument, bronze group by the lake; the 
University (1868-72), with large library and MSS., 
and famous natural history collections; Musee 
Ariana (I fr., free Thurs. and Sun.); and the vast 
monument to Duke Charles II. of Brunswick, on 
the Place des Alpes. 

Excursions. — To Ferny, 44- M. N.W. (hourly elec- 
tric tram over a route rich in views), where Voltaire 



290 LAKE OF GENEVA. — OOPPET. 

founded a town, built factories, a chateau, and a ch. 
(inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire) ; to the imposing new 
Rothschild villa, at Prigny ; to the Saleve, 4M. S. E., 
a limestoue mt., 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view 
of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Juras, and the Lake of 
Geneva ; to Les Voirons, another far- viewing mt. ; to 
the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Byron, Lola Montez. 
and the Empress Josephine ; to the -French stronghold 
of Fort de V Eel use ; and to the Perte clu Rhone, where, 
at low water, the river vanishes in a deep canon. 

The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the 
Romans, and Lac Leman of the French, is the largest 
Swiss lake, being about 50 X 9 M. (225 sq. M.) in 
area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of 
a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but 
few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious 
rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts. 
Voltaire and Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised 
its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the 
shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital 
steamboats ply here. 

The S. coast boat runs in 4%— 5 lirs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by 
Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Evian (Hotel de 
France ; Eoian ; Des Bains), a beautiful and fashion- 
able French summer-resort, with fine views of Lausanne ; 
to Bouveret, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny). 

The better route is along the N. shore, 4-|- hrs. 
(J\ fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix, once a French 
town; Coppet {Du Lac; Du Port), whose castle was 
long time the home and is now the burial-place of 
Necker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter, 
Madame de Stael ; Nyon (Du Lac; Du Jura; Ange), a 
lovely village, with massive 12th century castle, and 
a splendid view of Mont Blanc; Rolle, birthplace of 
La Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an 



MORGES. — VEVAY. — NEUCHATEL. 291 

adjacent island ; Morges, with a castle once occupied 
by Bertha, Queen of Burgundy; Ouchy (Hotel Beau 
Rivage; D 'Angleterre; DuChateau),wh.ence rl.in 6 m, 
(50c, 25c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the impos- 
ing and far-viewing Grand Hotel cle Vevay, in gardens 
of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevay {Grand Hotel de 
Vevay ; DuPo?it; Da Lac), a sheltered nook with semi- 
tropicaL climate, much visited by invalids and summer 
loiterers, and celebrated in Rousseau's Nouvelle Helolse; 
Clarens, with many villas and pensions, and natural 
beauties extolled by Byron and Rousseau ; and Mon- 
treux (Lorius; Beau-Lieu; Suisse), a shelter for con- 
sumptives ; to Villeneuve, at the end of the lake (ry. to 
Martigny, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous 
Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; entrance, 50 a), whose 
dungeons and their illustrious prisoner have been im- 
mortalized by Byron. See Rocher de Naye, a beau- 
tiful mountain place above Territet, between Chillon 
and. Montreux, at the E. end ol the Lake of Geneva. 
Neuchatel (Bellevue; DuLac; Soleil; Vaisseau), 2 
hrs. by rly. from Lausanne, stands on an amphitheatrical 
slope of the Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is 
famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed 
it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, 
museums, Library (70,000 vols.), new College, Picture- 
Gallery (| fr.) of fine modern Swiss paintings, ancient 
Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a 
professor here. The Lake of Neuchatel, 24 X 5 M. iu 
area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and 
deep waters. At its S. end is "Yverdon (Hotel de 
Londres ; Paon; Faucori), where Pestalozzi conducted 
his school (1805-25). Steamboats run from Neuchatel 
to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat, 
famous in Roman and Burgundian history. TotheN., 
1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Bernese 
town of 8,000 inhab., neai Gkasseral mt. The Lake 



292 AIGLE. — THE COL DE BALME. 

of Bienhe (7 M. long) contains the Peterinsel, where 
Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in 
1765). 

Chamounix and float Blanc. 

From Geneva by str. to Villeneuve, rly. thence to 
Martigny, and across to Chamounix. One can now go 
from Geneva to Chamounix entirely by rail — steam 
to Fayet St. Gervais, thence by electric tram. The 
journey takes only a few hours. France is entered 
at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches. 

Eare by boat and rly., Geneva to Martigny, 13 fr. 
90 c, 9 fr. 60 c, 6 fr. 90 c. Ascending the Rhone Valley 
from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand Hotel 
des Bains ; Beau Site), a pleasant summer-resort; and 
Bex {Grand Hotel des Salines ; Bains), whence route 
to Sion, across the Col de Ckeville. Beautiful views 
of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice 
(Hotel du Simplon; des Alpes). This is a very old town 
with a 4th century abbey, enshrining rare curiosities; a 
stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Be- 
yond Evionnaz stat; see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) 
on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz (Hotel 
des Gorges; Des Alpes), which is also very near the cele- 
brated Gorge* du Trient. Martigny (H. Glerc; De la 
Gare; National; 3ft. Blanc; St. Bernard) is starting 
point of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore) 
and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the 
passes to Chamounix. You can visit Chamounix ; 
ascend to the top of the St. Bernard ; return to Mar- 
tigny ; and go thence over the Simplon. 

The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamounix, 
9-10 hrs. ; mule and attendant, 24 fr. and gratuity 
<2 mules, 36 fr.). Carriage-road as far as Trient, 
where lunch is taken. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc 



CHAMOUNIX. - MONT BLANC. 293 

group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balmo (Hotel 
Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss 
Valais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of 
mts. Descend the Arve valley thence to Tour and 
Argentiere (Bellevue) ; whence road (1-horse carriage, 
5 f r. , and 1 fr. to driver) to 

Chamounix(/wper*«Z; Caehat et du Mont Blanc;. 
cPAngleterre; C outlet et du Pare; Royal et de Saus- 
sure; Savoy), in Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at foot of 
Mt. Blanc, has 15-20,000 visitors yearly, and is one 
of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Rooms should 
be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of 
study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for 
guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained 
at chief guide's office. In a day you may ascend the 
Montanvert (easy bridle-path, 2|hrs.), where Tyn- 
dall studied glacier movement ; cross the wonderful 
TVIer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Ckapeau (path 
id the ice, l^lirs.), where there is an inn; descend to' 
Les Praz ; climb thence to La Flegere (path in 2| hrs. ; 
inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence magnificent 
view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Vert, 
Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to Chamounix. On 
the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of 
the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the 
Glacier de Talefre, where Alpine flowers bloom in 
August. The Brevent, one of the Aiguilles Rouges, 
8,284 ft. high, commanding the best view of Mont 
Blanc, mav be climbed by path in 4 hrs. 

Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,781 ft.), 
the boundary between France and Italy, was first 
ascended in 1786. Many parties now ascend yearly 
(3-4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many 
valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather 
and with duo caution there is little danger. Eirst day's 



294 ST. BERNARD PASS. 

climb to stone huts on Grands Mulets (10,007 fc.) ; 
second, to summit and back ; third, from Grands Mulets 
to Chamounix. 

The Tete-Noire affords a good route from Chamou- 
nix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.) One can now go by 
electric tram to Argentiere; across the Col des 
Montets ; near the Poyaz and Barberine Cascades; 
through Valor cine village and Le Chatelard ; through 
the rocky Tete-Noire pass ; and down through Trient to 
Martigny. 

The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes.— 
Zermatt. 

Martigny to the Hospice, 11^ hrs., a very interesting 
journey. Start at morn (2-horse carriage, 45 fr. and 
gratuity) ; or pass night at Orsieres, ascend to Hospice 
to breakfast, and return to Martigny afternoon. Daily 
diligence to Bourg St. Pierre. The road ascends the 
Dranse valley to Orsieres {Hotel des Alpes) ; climbs 
steeply 5 M. to Liddes {Angleterre ; Union), whence 
mule and guide to Hospice, 8-9 fr. ; by Bourg St. 
Pierre {Au Dejeuner de Napoleon) and Cantine de Proz, 
the end of the road. 7 M. distant, through the Defile 
de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard 
Hospice, 8,120 ft, above the sea, occupied since 962 
by Erench Augustinian monks, who give free hospi- 
tality to all travellers. 20,000 peasants are fed here 
every year ; and in summer many tourists come. No 
charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers 
put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, 
very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- 
visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon's monu- 
ment to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great library ; the 
Morgue; and the noble dogs. The pass has been 



ZERMATT. — SIMPLON PASS. 295 

crossed by vast armies of Romans, Lombards, Franks, 
and Germans ; and in 1799 heavy fighting occurred 
here between the Austrians and Napoleon's troops. 
It is 6 hrs. hence to Aosta, in Italy. 
Zermatt ( Victoria: Mont-Cervin; Mont-Rose) is 
approached from Martigny by railway, passing 
through Vispach. The traveller will find this a 
characteristic Alpine route, among gorges, cascades, 
and rocky peaks, with vast mountains in advance. 
The village is the highest in Europe (5,215 feet), con- 
tinuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps, 
in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the 
Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its 
ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost 
their lives on these mts. The Riffelberg (with hotel) vs 
3 hrs. distant, by bridle-path ; and 1^ hr. beyond is tkp 
rocky crest of Gorner Grat, 10,290 ft. high, with su 
perb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids (16,132 ft.), 
on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn (13,685 ft.), on th# 
S. ; the craggy Matterhorn (14,705 ft.), on the W. \ 
the Dent Blanche, Gabelhoni, Morning, the Mischabe). 
and the Allaleinhorn, in the N. Gornergrat elec. ry. 
now completed. From Zermatt visit the Gorner 
Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than the Mer de 
Glace ; the Findelen Glacier ; and to the Cima di Jazi 
(12,526 ft.), by the Riffelberg. The St Theodule Pass 
leads to Aosta. Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) offers a 
safe, but fatiguing climb (up and back, 12-14 hrs.). 
The fatal Matterhorn is ascended by several parties 
yearly (a severe 2-days' trip). 

The Simplon.— Elv. Martigny to Brieg in 2£ hrs. 
(8fr. 20, 5fr. 80, 4fr. 10), by Saxon-ies-Bains {Grand 
Motel des Bains; de la Pierre-d-Voir), with iodated 
voters, good for skin diseases; beautiful Sion(iZ~. du 
Hidi; Poste), with old castles, Gothic cathedral, 2 fine 



296 SIMPLON PASS. 

old chs., and 6,000 inhab. ; mediaeval Sierre (Bellevue), 
with, the chateaux of the Valais nobles ; Leuk, a few 
miles from the Baths of Leuk {Hotel des Alpes ; 
Bellevue ; Be France), and at the foot of the Gem mi 
Pass ; and Visp (route to Zermatt) . From the end of 
the rly., at Brieg {Hotel oV Angleterre) , diligences cross 
the Simplon Pass in 9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 16 fr. 
55c; coupe, 19 fr. 65 c), to Domo d' Ossola. Napoleon 
built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,600,000, 
for a military route into Italy. There are numerous 
houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers. 
The crest of the pass is 6,594 ft. high, in an open val- 
ley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is 
the Hospice, whose monks are hospitable to all 
comers. Magnificent mt. -scenery on upper reaches of 
pass. The road descends 5| M. to Simplon (Poste), 
and through the Gondo Ravine. \ M. beyond the 
hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, 03 
several villages, through wild and picturesque gorges, 
by the Crexola Gallery, and over the lofty Boveru 
Bridge, to Domo d'Ossola. (See page 298.) Now, 
however, the opening of the Simplon tunnel has 
made possible an all rail route from France to Italy, 
reducing the length of the jouruey by several hours, 
and at the same time depriving it of much of its pic- 
turesqueness. The tunnel extends from Brieg to 
Iselle, a distance of a little over 12 miles. 



ROUTES INTO ITALY. 297 



ITALY. 

HHHE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and cen- 
tesimi, which correspond to francs and cen- 
times. The paper money consists of notes of 5, 10 
and 25 lire. Beware of counterfeits; also of taking 
large bank notes in one city which may not be good 
in another. See Chapter on Travel, for general ob- 
servations on Italy. Many complaints have been 
made of thefts from baggage on the Italian railways. 
It is well, therefore, not to carry valuable jewelry, or 
money, in trunks. 

Routes into Italy. 

1. Paris to Turin, by Mt. Cenis, 496£ M. ; 16 
(express) to 27 hrs. ; fares, 91 fr. 10 c, 62 fr. 55 c, 
40 fr. 15 c. Route leads through Fontainebleau, Ton- 
nerre, Montbard(Buffon's home), Dijon, Macon, Culoz, 
Chambery, and Modane (frontier stat. ; change cars). 
The Mt.-Cenis Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861- 
71, at a cost of $15,000,000. Trains for Italy run 
through it in 45 min. ; trains for France, in 25 min. 

2. Paris to Genoa, by Marseilles and Nice, 790| 
M. ; fares, 155 fr. 90 c, 105 fr. 35 c, 84 fr. 30 c. Ely. 
from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin ; or from Savona, 
W. of Genoa, to Turin (5| hrs.). 

3. Geneva to Milan, by the Simplon, see p. 295. 

4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see p. 280), 
through Muelen, Airolo, and Bellinzona, and thence 
rly. by Como. Or rly. through from Lucerne to Milan 
(fare, 36 fr. 70 c). 



298 • LAKE MAGGIORE. 

. 5. Coire to Milan, by the Spliigen, to Chiavenna and 
Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan. 
Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to Bellinzona, whence 
rly. Or by Julier and Bernina Passes, Coire to Sama- 
den, Tirauo, and Colico, whence steamer to Como.- 
and rly. to Milan. 

6. Basle to Milan, by the Stelvio. PJy. to Con- 
stance and Bludenz ; diligence to Landeck, Nanclers, 
Bormio, and Colico ; steamer and rly. to Milan. 

7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 264. 

8. Vienna to Venice, by the Semmering, all rly., by 
Brnch and Villach, through magnificent scenery. Leave 
Vienna at 7 a.m. ; reach Venice, 11 p.m. Or rly. from 
Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice. 

The Tour of the Italian Lakes. 

Domo d' Ossola {Grand Hotel de la Ville / D'Es- 
pagne) is a pretty southern village, with a charming 
view from the Calvary, \ hr. distant. Railway to 
Novara (55 M.; %\ hrs.; 10 1. 30 c, 7 1. 15 c. 4 1. 60 c.) 
passing the ruined castle of Vogogna; Ornavasso, with 
a castle of the Visconti, and the quarries whence Milan 
Cathedral was hewn ; Gravellona ; through the valley 
of the Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of 
Orta. Thence along the shore of the lake, beautiful 
views, to Gozzano ; through the valley of the Agogna 
to Novara, whence Milan can be reached by rly. in 1^ 
hr. Diligence from Gravellona to Pallanza, on Lake 
Maggiore (6 M.; 1 hr.; 1 1., outside, 1J 1.) ; to Stresa 
m M. ; 1 hr. ; 1 1. 20 c. ; 1 1. 80c). It is wise to make 
a tour of the lakes (1-2 clays) before going to Milan. 

Lake Maggiore, 37X14- M. in area, and of vast 
depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vine* 
yards on the S., aud the great rnts. on the N. Ther? 
are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and ri<»t 



ARONA.— BORROME AN ISLANDS. 299 

mines. Arona (Albergo Reale e Posta), on the S., is 
An old town, with rare paintings in its ch. On the 
hill is a copper and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St. 
Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal- Arch- 
bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold 
3 persons (ladders ascend to it, inside). Steamer front 
Arona to Locarno (4 1.. 80 c., 2 1. 65 c). It calls at 
Stresa (Hotel ties lies Borromees ; Milan\ with its 
Sne monastery and cypress-trees; and Baveno (Grand 
Hotel Bellevue; Beau Rivage; Simplon). The shores 
are lined with villas ; and in the N. glimmer the Alps, 
Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borro- 
tnean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Richter's 
description). Isola Bella (Hotel clu Dauphin) has the 
great palace of the Borromeo family (open daily; 11.), 
rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and 
fountains. Isola Madre has an empty palace, above 
7 terraces, laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, 
and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 1, 
first hr., 1 1. others. Arona to Isola Bella, by steamer, 
1^ 1., 90 c. ; fare thence, by Fariolo, Intra, and Laveno, 
11. 85 c, 11. 15 c, to Luino. Opposite is Cannero, 
among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' castles off- 
shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The 
steamer keeps on N. to Locarno {Grand Hotel 
Locarno; Reber; d,u Pare), in the Swiss Canton of 
Tichio, to which the upper part of the lake belongs. 
See ch., with good pictures ; Cantonal buildings ; and 
Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, visited by 
myriads of pilgrims. Ely. hence to Bellinzona, whence 
diligence over the Splugen. Return by boat (2L 
10 c, 11. 20 c) to 

Luino (Hotel du Simplon ; Posta ; Vittoria), a fa- 
vorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace an4 
Garibaldi's statue. Steam tramway (1 h.; 2 1. 65c. g 1 L 



300 LAKE LUGANO — LAKE COMO 

45c.) to Poiite Tresa, thence steamboat (50 min., 41. 
50c, 21. 70c.) to Lugano (Hotel du Pare; Grand; 
Splendide; Bellevue; Metropole; St. Gotthard; Berna; 
Bristol; JSvizzera), a Swiss cantonal capital, in- 
habited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and ricft 
villas. See S. Lorenzo Ch.; Sta. Maria, with Luini's 
frescos ; Wra. Tell's statue ; and old convents and 
palaces. Excursion to Mt. B. Salvadore (2,982 ft. 
high) in 2 hrs. (guide and horse, 7 1.). View of Alps. 

Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs 
among the mts., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on 
one side, Italian on the other, in a climate of perpetual 
spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent 
peaks overlook the Lombard plain, down to Milan. 
Steamer from Lugano (2|1., 11.), by Osteno, near a 
remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an 
amphitheatre of hills; or S., to Capolago, whence rail- 
way to Como. Steam tramway (about 9 M. ; 1 hr. ; 2 1. 
65 c, 1 1. 45c.) from Porlezza,' by Piano and Croce, 
and through a rich country, with Lake Como below 
.and the Alps in sight from the Spliigen to the Ortler 
Spitz, to Menaggio (Menaggio, Vittoria, Corona), 
on Lake Como. This is a good point for excursions • 
and on the hill is the Villa Vigoni, with fine sculptures. 

Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is 
shaped like the letter Y, and is 32 M. long, 2-3 M. 
wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the loveliest lakes 
in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards, 
and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets 
and the splendid villas of Milanese families. Cross to 
Bellaggio (Grande Bretagne % Bellaggio ; Genazzini ; 
Villa Serbelloni ; Florence; Suisse'), a favorite Anglo- 
American resort. The Villa Melzi (1 1.) has splendid 
sculptures (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous 
garden Prom Villa Serbelloni, best view on the 



COMO.— LAKE OF GAKDA. 301 

lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia (Bellevue ; 
Belle He; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Car- 
lotta (fee 1 1.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova 
and Thorwaldsen. Steamer from Bellag° - io to Colico, 
whence rly. (17 M.; 31. 10 c, 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 40 c.) to 
Chiavenna, and diligence over the Spliigen (12 hrs.; 
22 1., outside 26 1. 65 c.) to Coire (see p. 278). Return 
thence to Colico and take steamer (3 J-5 hrs.; 4 1. 70 c, 
2 1. 60 c.) through the lake, noting castles of 3fusso 
and many beautiful hamlets, to Como (Hotel Vol- 
ta ; Italia; Plinius), a place of 25,000 inhab., 
with statues of its eminent natives, the elder and the 
younger Pliny, and Yolta, the electrician. See marble 
Lombard-Gothic Cathedral (1396), with fine paintings 
(by Guido, Veronese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid 
coloring ; Ch. of Croccfisso, richly adorned ; basilica 
of S. Abbondio, 1 M. out ; ancient Porta del Torre; and 
handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steamers run 
from Bellaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco, an 
arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Rese- 
gone peaks (rly. to Milan). 

Como to Milan, 30 M. ; If hrs. (5| 1., 3 1. 85 c, 2% 1.). 

The Lake of Orta, 9 X 1| M. in area, is charm- 
ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Omnibus 
(2^1.) from Arona to Orta (S. Giulio; Orta; Bel- 
vedere), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near 
the Sacro Monte, a height dotted with chapels, and 
looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 
15 X 1 i M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves 
of mulberries and figs and gardens of roses and camel- 
lias. Railway from Brescia (15 M. ; If hr. : 2 1. 75 c, 1 1. 
90 c, 1 1. 25 ( c.) to Iseo {Hotel Leone), whence steamer 
to beautiful Sarnico and Lover e. — The great Lake of 
Garda, 37 X 10 M. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear 
blue waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque 
shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Des- 
enzano (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the 



302 MILAN. 

battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Verona rail- 
way, to Riva {Hotel Lido), a beautiful village at 

the N. end. 

The North = Italian Cities 

Milan (Hotel de la Ville; Cavour ; Milan / Gran 
Bretagna, all expensive ; Victoria; Europa ; Manin; 
Roma; Venezia) is a beautiful and enterprising city 
(490,000 inhab.), 9 M. around, in the centre of the 
rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 b. c. ; a 
capital in the 3d-century; sacked by Attila in 452; a 
Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne; 
destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162; rebuilt 
by the Lombard League; governed by the Visconti 
and Sforza families, 1312-1545; conquered by Francis 
I., in 1515; annexed by Charles V. soon after, and 
Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805-14; an Aus- 
trian garrison, 1814-59 ; and since then Italian. Man- 
zoni was born here ; also 5 popes ; and Virgil studied 
here. 

The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to 
St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built 
1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and 
transept-aisles, separated by 52 pillars, each 12 ft. in 
diameter, with niches crowded with statues. Interior 
477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It con- 
tains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast 
granite monoliths, superb stained windows, many 
tombs of magnates, St. Carlo Borromeo's wooden cru- 
cifix and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of 
saints (in the Treasury). The wonderful marble roof 
(entered from r. transept, 5 a. m. till dusk, 25 a), 
with ninety -eight Gothic turrets, hundreds of 
pinnacles, and over two thousands life-size marble 
statues ■ — some by Canova, — ■ should be carefully 
studied (2-3 hrs.) Ascend (at early morn) to the 



MILAN. 303 

upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360 
ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apennines, 
snd Alps(Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Rosa, Mat- 
terhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Spliigen, 
Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with tele- 
scope. 

Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor- Em7nanue% 
Gallery, the finest arcade in the world; built in 1865-7 
,tt a cost of $1,600,000 ; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high, 
»;urrounded by handsome shops; richly frescoed ; and 
idorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, 
Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon 
under the dome (180 ft. high) is brilliantly lighted at 
iiight, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the 
adjacent Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's 
monument (1872). the massive Municipal Palace 
(1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 3,600 
sittings (1 1. to see building ; famous ballets here, in 
season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of San Fedeld 
(1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a 
great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with 
statues; and contains a library of 300,000 vols.; 
a celebrated gallery (open daily, 9-4, 1 1. ; free 
on Sunday) of 400 paintings and sculptures (get 
catalogue) . 

The Piazza de'Armi, N. W. of Milan, has the Arena 
built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators ; 
the Castle of the Sforzas, built 1358 ; and the great 
triumphal marble Arch, ending the Simplon route,, 
founded by Napoleon (1804) to record his victories. 
and finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing 
the victories over France. Grand statues on summit. 
The Gorso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business 
street, and contains S. Carlo Borromeo (a copy of the 
Roman Pantheon), and several palaces. See Piazza dei 
Mercanti, with Exchange and 13th-century palace of 
the Podesta; Piazza Beccaria, with statue of Beccarla; 



304 LA CERTOSA. 

and the Roman, Garibaldi, and Tosa Gates. S. Am- 
brogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4th century), is a 
Romanesque ch., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- 
tianity, 8th-century reliefs, 9th-century mosaics, Stili- 
cho's sarcophagus, the brazeu serpent of Moses. Here 
Augustine embraced Christianity ; Ambrose closed the 
gates against the Emperor Theodosius ; and the Lom- 
bard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown. 
In the refectory (1 1.), near the rich, old abbey-ch. of 
S. Maria chile Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo da 
Vinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th- 
century octagonal S. Lorenzo, and its colonnade ; S. Maria 
di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and 
atrium ; S. Maurizio, with Luini's frescos. The Am- 
brosian Library (open 10-3, if r. ), founded (1609) by- 
Cardinal Borromeo, has 175,000 vols., 15,000 MSS., 
many literary curiosities and several hundred paint- 
ings. The Civic Museum (-J fr.) has large natural- 
history collections. The Castello Sforzesco, restored 
1893, contains the Municipal Art and Archaeological 
Museum (adm. lfr., Thu. -Jfr., Sun. 20 a). See the 
Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital with 9 
courts; Military Hospital; Manzoni's house; palaces 
of Borromeo, Litta, Omoneni, Trivulzio and Ciani 
families; Cemetery, with cremation -temple; Public 
Gardens .where Exhibition of 1881 was held; Archbish- 
op's Palace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565); and 
Royal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napoleonic frescos. 
La Certosa (1 hr. by rly. ; 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 25 c, 1 1. 
60 a), in a fertile and populous plain, was one of the 
most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and be- 
longed to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by 
the Visconti; and here Francis I. was a prisoner in 1525. 
The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor, 
monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious 
things. The rich Renaissance facade (1473) is hi 



PAVIA.-ALESSANDRIA.-TURIN. 305 

colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand clois- 
ters, with slender marble pillars and monks' houses. 

Pavia (Croce Bianca; Hotel Tre Be) is a little way 
S. (fares from Milan, 41. 10c, 21. 85 c, 21. 10c). See 
unfinished Cathedral, facade and dome built 1898; 
Promenade, along Ticino River; University, the old- 
est in Europe; old Romanesque Ch. of St. Michele, 
with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislieri;. 
towers on the walls; and Castle, built 1630. 

Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, 14 1. 5 c, 9 1. 85 c. r 
71. 5 c.; to Piacenza, 61. 85 c, 41. 80 c, 31. 45 c 
From La Certosa the fares are 7 1. 40 c, 5 1. 20 c, 3 1. 
75 c, to Alessandria (Bly. Bestaurant ; Europa; 
Londra), a huge fortress (73,000 inhab-.), whose ap- 
proaches can be flooded in war-time. Citadel built, 
1 728, by Victor Amadeo II . Hence in 2^-3 hrs- (10 L 
20 c, 71. 30 c 3 51. 15 c.) to 

Turin (Be la Ville, de Turin, d' Europe, Fiorina T 
Central, de France. Boma e Boeca Cavour), prosper- 
ous city of 350,000 inn., on the plain, of the Po, near 
the Graian Alps. It was destroyed by Hannibal 
(218 B.C.) and Alaric ; was a Roman colony ; a bishopric 
under Charlemagne ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and 
of Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Pliiladelphiart 
regularity, and surrounded by umbrageous promenades, 
on site of old walls. The Palazzo Madama is a huge 
mediaeval pile, centrally situated ; and once the Senate- 
house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the 
Royal Palace, a ponderous old brick building (usually 
open), richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library 
(60,000 vols. ; open 9-4), and armory (daily, 11-3), 
with Roman, French and Austrian standards, 
Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The hand- 
some and busy Via di Po, with arcades, runs thence 
to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa 



306 TURIN.-NOVARA. 

is connected with that of the King. The Royal Oar- 
dens open 11-5 Sundays and holidays, (music at 1). In 
the Palazzo delV Accademia are collections in natural 
history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of 
40,000 vols., and a gallery (open daily ; get catalogue) 
of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The 
Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del SS. Sudario, 
a high-clonied round chapel of brown marble, where 
the sovereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch. 
contains a revered image of the Virgin. The palaces 
and arcades of the Piazza dello Staiuio were erected by 
an English company, and surround a memorial of the 
Erejus Tunnel. There are many fine statues and 
groups in the Squares, honoring Italian notables. The 
university, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 stu- 
dents, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Albertina 
Academy of Fine Arts (open daily) ; Municipal Museum; 
House of Tasso ; house where Cavour died ; Royal 
*ffieatre; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Monuments of 
Cavour, Victor Emanuel and Philibert; the great 
Carignano Palace; the favorite Public Garden, with 
chateau of II Valentino; handsome granite bridge; 
Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly dec- 
orated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea; Waldensian Temple; 
Capuchin Monastery and the curious Mole Antonelli- 
ana. The Cemetery, 1£M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio 
Pellico, Massimo d'Azeglio, Grioberti, etc. La Su- 
perga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps 
(Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with 
the tombs of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the 
Waldenses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turin. 

From Turin you may go to Milan (17 I., 11 1. 90 a, 
8 1. 55 c.) by Novara {Sempione; Italia), a large 
Piedmontese market-town, where Peter Lombard was 
born in 1100. The 4th century Cathedral has 
columns of an older pagan temple. 



BERGAMO. — BRESCIA. 307 

Turin to Venice, 257 M. ; 10§ hrs,, express ; fares, 
471. 10 c., 331. 5 c, 231. 65 c. Milan to Bergamo 
(39 M.; 2 hrs.), 51. 90 c, 41. 15 c, 21. 95 c; to 
Brescia, 11M., 81. 5 c, 51. 75 c; to Verona, 181. 
30 c; to Venice, 311. 80 c, 221. 80 c, 161. 30 c 
Take morning train. Pine scenery and interesting 
cities. Bergamo (Italia) is a prosperous fortified 
provincial and episcopal capital (48,000 inhab.). Aris- 
tocratic and governmental Old Town on hill, with Cas- 
tle above it ; commercial New Town below. About the 
Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, splendid Colleoni Chapel, 
Municipal Palace, and quaint old Gothic Broletto pal- 
ace. See very interesting Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore 
(1173), containing tomb of Donizetti; Accademia 
Carrara, with over 200 ancient paintings ; vast build- 
ings, with 600 shops, for annual Fair (Aug. 15-Sept. 
15). Excursions to Vals Brembana and Seriana, and 
Lake of Iseo. 

Brescia {Alb ergo oV Italia; Gambero; Brescia) makes 
famous arms, silks, cloths (70,000 inhab.); was a 
Gaulish town ; a Roman colony ; Milan's rival in the 
16th century; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512; a 
Venetian garrison, 1517-1797 ; bombarded by Aus- 
trians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the 
Alps, surrounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. 
The Cathedral (built 1604-1S25) is of marble, with 
vast dome. Near by is La Botonda, the old cathedral 
(9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs. 
of S. Afra, S. Clemente, and S. Nazzaro e Celso, rich in 
pictures; Galleria Tosio (open 11-3), 13 rooms full of 
notable paintings ; Biblioteca Queriniana (open 11-3), 
£0,000 vols., and rare literary curiosities,- Museo 
Patno (11-3 daily), Roman relics, in a tempie built 
j)y Vespasian, a.d. 7^ ; 12th century Broletto and cam- 
panile; handsome. Palazzo Comunale (1503J, richly 



308 SOLFERINO.— VERONA. 

carved; Mediceval Museum in two old churches, 
Lake of Garda, see page 301. 

The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano, whence 4 1. by 
carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones 
of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; runs along 
S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views; 
through the fortress of Peschiera ; to thriving 

Verona (Colombo, d'Oro ; Qran Hotel di Lon- 
dra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plain 
(78,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; then 
a Roman fortress ; capital of the Gothic empire ; one 
of Charlemagne's chief towns; a republic; capital of 
the Scaligers ; Venetian appanage for 300 years ; Aus- 
trian garrison (1797-1866) ; aucl Italian city. There 
are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is sur- 
rounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached 
castles, built by Austria and lately strengthened by 
Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of 
Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carlovingians ; chs. of 
rare interest ; and venerable palaces. The Cathedral 
is a stately 14th-century Gothic ch., with cloisters on 
red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by is 
the old 12th-century Baptistery ; also, Bishop's Palace, 
with colossal statue in courtyard, and library. The 
Piazza delle Erbe, or fruit-market, is a remarkably 
picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, sur- 
rounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tall 
marble pillar where once stood the lion of Venice, the 
quaint Tribuna (or judgment-seat), !,he Municipio 
Tower (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of 
Verona. The adjacent Piazza dei Signon, with impos. 
ing Municipio palace (1183), picturesque court; La 
Loggia, or Palazzo del Consiglio (1500), with statues 
of Catullus, Cornelius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer, 
all natives of Verona ; and statue of Dante. Near the 



VERONA. 809 

Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and 
splendid Gothic Tombs of the Scaliger family, who 
ruled Verona 1262-1389. S. Anastasia (1261) is an 
interesting Gothic church, with noble interior. The 
Arena, on one side the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 
(formerly Bra), is a well-preserved Roman Amphi- 
theatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered 
with earth and houses in the Middle Ages. The 72 
arcades are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584 
feet around and 106 feet high, with 45 tiers, and can 
accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de Bor- 
sari, a triumphal arch built by the Emperor Gallie- 
nus (a.d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See also two 
arches of Roman bridge ; an arch near old citadel ; 
and the Arch of the Lions. 

S. Zenone, in N.-W. quarter, founded by Pepin 
(who was buried there), is the finest mediaeval church 
with rich marble facade; very curious sculptures of 
"Wheel of Fortune, etc.; portal (1178) resting on red- 
marble lions ; doors with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose 
interior, with alternate pillars and columns; tomb 
and statue of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century clois- 
ters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is 
Sammicheli's beautiful Capella dei Pellegrini. Sam- 
micheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate (end of 
Corso), towards the Castle, now an arsenal, once the 
palace of the Scaligers. The so-called Tomb of Juliet 
is a red marble sarcophagus, much visited by young 
ladies. See S. Pernio Maggiore, rich 14th-century 
Gothic ch. with walnut ceilings. Palazzo Bevilacqua y 
facade by Sammicheli. Academia delle Belle Arte 
(1 1.), in imposing Palazzo Pompei, with hundreds of 
fine old Veronese paintings, Roman- antiques, etc. 
Giusti Garden (50 a), with cypresses 500 years old, 
and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines ; 
Cemetery, surrounded by Doric colonnade; ini the 
great Castello JS. Pietro. 



310 ROVEREDO. — MANTUA. — CREMONA. 

Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and thence 
down to Vicenza, byRoveredo (9,000 iuhab.), where 
Dante lived in exile. Verona to Munich by the Bren- 
ner, 63f L, 47 1. 55 c, 22 1. 15 c. (see p. 265). 

From Verona, you can visit Mantua (fares, 4 1. 60 c, 
3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 30 c.) and Modena (fares, 11 1. 85 c, 8 1., 
5f L), passing Villafranca, where peace was made be- 
tween France and Austria in 1859. Mantua (Aquila 
d'Oro; Senoner) is a dull old fortress (30,000 
inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (born 
3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and Giulio Romano 
were born. See S. Andrea (1472), a vast ch. with 
many monuments and frescos; Museo Civico in the Pal- 
azzo degli Studii ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Pal- 
ace (1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Romano: 
Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of sculpture (grand 
view of Tyrolese Alps from square) ; and Palazzo del 
Te, a huge palace outside the Porta Pusterla, erected 
by Romano, and adorned with bis greatest frescos. 

From Milan to Mantua direct, in 6 hrs. (fares, 
18 1. 20 c, 12f 1., 9 1. 20 a), by Cremona (Capello ed 
Italia), ou the Po (36,000 inhab.), successively Gaul- 
ish, Roman, Gothic, Lombard, Austrian, and Italian, 
and famous for its violins, and now a dull town of wide 
streets and decaying palaces. See pictures in Public 
and Royal Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard 
Cathedral, with rich facade and interior crowded with 
frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high, 
with arcades to Cathedral ; and nobles' palaces. 

Piacenza {Italia ; San Marco) may be reached 
hence by tramway ; or by rly. from Milan (7 1. 80 c, 
5M., 3 1. 90 c; rly. from Milan to Bologna, 24 1. 
45 c, 17 1. 15 c, 12^ 1.). This town (35,000 inhab.) 
was founded by the Romans, b. c. 219. See 13th- 
century Palazzo del Comune, with fine arcade?. 



VICENZA. — PADUA. 311 

and equestrian statues of the Farnese princes ; 12th* 
century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino 
and Caracci; S. Francesco (1278), and Romagncsi's 
statue ; S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael 
painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo 
Farnese, built by Vignolain 1558 ; Citadel (154?) ; and 
S. Antonino, quaint vestibule. 

Rapid tourists will hasten from Verona to Venice 
direct, passing through Vicenza (Tre Garofani; 
Roma j Gran Parigi), a busy town of 44,000 inh., sur- 
rounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with 
buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of 
Vicenza (1518-80), among which are Cam del Diavolo ; 
Palazzo Prefettizio, Teatro Olimpico (|1.), etc. Also 
Basilica, or Palazzo del Consiglio, grand open arcades 
around town-hall ; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano 
palaces; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is Civic 
Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See 
Palazzo delta Rag io tie, very rich Gothic ; Great Tower 
(1446) ; palaces around Piazza de' Signori ; quaint old 
bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; dull Gothic Cathedral ; S. 
Corona, with priceless pictures ; S. Lorenzo ; Berto- 
liana Library, with rare MSS. ; and Roman Berg a 
Theatre. On Mt. Berici, pilgrimage-ch. of Madonna 
del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars 
(2,145 ft. long). \\ M. out is Villa Rotonda, Palladio's 
work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades. 

Padua {Stella oV Oro; Croced''Oro), a university town 
between Vicenza and Venice, has 80,000 inhab., and 
stands on a rich plain, embowered in gardens. From 
a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls 
and bastions present a noble appearance ; but within it 
appears almost deserted. Its foundation is attributed 
to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and in the Augus- 
tan age it was the chief city of North Italy. Alaric 



312 PADUA. 

and Attila both sacked it ; and it was Venetian, 1402- 
1797. In 14th century, Padua had more artists than 
any city (Giotto, etc.).. • The University 8 

founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with 
18-20,000 students. Galileo was a professor ; Dante, 
Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famou3, 
and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious 
arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues 
(2 by Canova) of illustrious graduates, Savonarola, 
Giotto, etc. xl Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio 
(1296-1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, is crowded 
with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monuments 
(Bembo, Contarini), and has large cloisters. Taine calls 
it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine ■ 
cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek towers, 
little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a facade 
borrowed from Roman basilicas, and notions copied 
from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of several centu- 
ries and countries. In front, see Donatello's equestrian 
bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general; and 
on the S., Scuola del Santo, a hall with famous frescos 
by Titian. S. Giustina (1549), a stately ch., often de- 
stroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- 
stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe) ; 
and huge old monastery (now a hospital.) The Arena 
Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by 
Giotto (visit at morning, 50 c). Near by, see Eremitani 
Ch. (1276-1306), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed 
by Mantegna; and Scuola del Carmine, a baptistery with 
Titian's frescos. See Cathedral baptistery (1260), 
frescoed in 1380 ; 11th-century Palazzo delta liagione, 
with immense hall, largest known single roof, and 400 
frescos ; Palazzo del Podesta and campanile ; and Civic 
Musemi, many paintings- Ouiet old Padua may well 
be the object of a day's excursion from Venice. 



VENICE. 31$ 

Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last stat. 
fs Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a- 
vast viaduct. 2 M. long, on 222 arches (built 1841-45 ; 
cost $1,000,000). The passage by night seems a flight 
between sea and sky. 

Venice. 

Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli, in Palazzo 
Dandolo; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani; Britannia/ 
Vittoria; Grand; Beauriuage; Italia; Monaco; Luna; 
Bellevuej Pension Suisse; d Angleterre; Accademia; 
Vapore. Restaurants. — Quadri j Bauer ; Fan 
Marco. Cafes. — Florian; Svizzero; Spxchi; Q> adrif 
Giardino Reale, — all on or near Piazza of St. Mark. 
Gondolas (one rower) for 1-6 persons, 1 1. per trip, or 
per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from steamers to 
Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each piece. Hotels 
To call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Numerous small 
steamboats (vaporetti) ply regularly on the, canals^ 
answering to the street-cars in other cities ; fare, 5 cv 
and 10 c. 

Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with 
150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 1)7,000 
inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing), 
and manufactures of books, mirrors, jewelry, brocades, 
laces, and glass (one factory is now 1,200 years old). 
It is 7 M. around, divided by the Grand Canal, shaped 
like an S, 2 M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The La- 
goon is a shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected 
with the Adriatic by 4 deep channels through long and 
narrow sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul- 
warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the 
largest vessels. The tide rises and falls about Venice. 
A small canal is called rio ; a street, calle or lista/ 
a square, campoj small square, campiello; blind alley^ 



314 THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO. 

eorte ; quay, fondamento, or riva. An adequate view 
of Venice requires 8-10 days ; the chief sights may be 
visited in 4 days. Por sight-seeing, the city may be 
cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of Grand 
Canal ; the Grand Canal ; region N. and W. ; S. Gior- 
gio and Giudecca ; remoter islands. 

The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft. 
long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray trachyte 
.and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained 
marble palaces and St. Mark's Ch., and the picturesque 
centre of Yenetian life, especially at evening, when the 
bands play, and the cafes are crowded by thousands. 
Flocks of fat pigeons fed here by the city at 2 p.m. 
-daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are 
-the Procuratie Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century 
for home of the Procurators (who ranked next to the 
Doge), and now used for business ; Procuratie Nuove 
(1584), on S. side, now the Royal Palace; and Nuovet 
Fabbrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the 
home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected 
with Royal Palace (handsome rooms ; fee, 1 1.). The 
galace arcades are occupied by cafes and bric-a-brac 
shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile, dating 
from the beginning of the 10th century, was 322 feet 
in height. It fell to the ground on July 14, 1902, but 
a new campanile has been built, the first stone having 
been laid on St. Mark's Day (April 25), 1903. The 
pretty Loggetta was destroyed when the campanile 
fell, but it, too, has been restored. The Clock 
Tower (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Mer. 
ceria, Venice's chief business street, has a huge bell, 
©n which two bronze Yulcans strike the hours. The 
3 lofty cedar flagstaffs between the towers used to tear 
the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, king* 
>doms tributary to Venice. 



VENICE. 315 

The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the 
Piazza, is a magnificent piece of Venetian Byzantine 
architecture, built in 976-1071, in form of Greek cross, 
with 5 domes, 500 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of 
mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, 
of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople 
by Dandolo in 1204 ; carried to Paris, in 1797, as war 
trophies; and returned in 1815. Below and all around, 
and in the great entrance hall, and inside, are mosaics. 
8 fine columns in vestibule ; also, 3 red slabs com- 
memorating the reconciliation of Barbarossa and Pope 
Alexander III. (1177) ; and the porphyry sarcophagus 
of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). 
The interior — Gautier's "a golden cavern, incrusted 
with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre, 
sparkling and mysterious " — is 258 X 210 ft. in area, 
with slippery and uneven 11th-century marble pave, 
ment, colored-marble pulpits, marble statues (made in 
1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze 
statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. 
See high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb 
of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, with 4 spiral 
alabaster columns, 2 of which belonged to Solomon's 
Temple ; Treasury, with Doge Morosmi's sword, St. 
Mark's throne, a bit of St. John's skull, piece of True 
Cross, etc. ; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and 
Crypt, with 64 columns ; Baptistery, with bronze font 
and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen Chapel, with 
magnificent tomb, altar, and statuary ; Sansovino's 
bronze door, leading to Sacristy ; etc. 

The Piazzetta is a small square, running from S. 
Marco to the Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns,, 
brought from Syria in 1120, and supporting statues of 
St. Theodore and the Winged Lion of St. Mark. On 
one side i,« the finelv sculptured Libreria Vecchia, built 



316 DOGES' PALACE. — AKSENAL. 

by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace 
The great hall was frescoed by Veronese, for which 
Venice gave him a gold collar. Alongside is the old 
Mint, back of which is the Royal Garden. Opposite 
is the Doges' Palace, with facade 246 ft. iong, and 
facade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800, 
and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. Most of present 
palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles, 
Oriental designs, and Venetian- Gothic arches, combine 
very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above, 
in the rich Loggia, with quaint capitals. Ascend San- 
sovino's Giants' Staircase, between colossal statues of 
Mars and Neptune, where the doges were crowned ; 
and observe beautiful court, with statues, cisterns, and 
part of Silvio Pellico's cell. Inside, see Sansovino's 
Golden Staircase ; Hall of Great Council, 165 X 84 ft., 
with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pic- 
tures, and Tintoretto's "Paradise;" Sala del Scrutinio, 
39 doges' portraits, and many paintings ; Library, 
with famous MSS. ; Archceological Museum, 5 rooms of 
ancient marble sculptures ; Sola delta Bussola ; Hall 
of Council of Ten; and many others, crowded with 
paintings, and rich in historical associations. Obliging 
guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc. 

The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is connected 
with the busy quay of the Riva del Schiavoni by a 
bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading 
from the Palace to the Prison (1512-97), and made 
famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his " ignorant senti- 
mentalism "). You may visit the Rozzi, low dungeons 
where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (almost) 
of air ; and see where the political executions occurred, 
and bodies were given to the gondoliers. In the 
Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 1104, were built tne 
fleets of the Crusaders. 16,000 men were once em* 



VENICE. 617 

ployed here (now 2,000). At portal, 4 marble lions, 
brought from Greece in 1697, one of which is said to 
have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bu~ 
centaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, Attila's 
helmet, etc. 

Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of Grand 
Canal. People help you ashore at landings, and expect 
a penny. The great Italian- Gothic Ch. of Santi Gio- 
vanni e Paolo is the Yenetian Pantheon, filled with 
imposing mausoleums of doges, statesmen, and warriors 
(see those of Mocenigo. Bragadino, the Valiers, Yen- 
dramin, and Giustiniani), and valuable old pictures and 
statues, In S. transept is a window of stained glass 
(1473), which is rare in Yenice. The ch. was founded 
in 1210 ; and the funerals of the doges always took 
place here. On adjacent square, see ancient equestrian 
statue of Colleoni, a Yenetian general. Close by is the 
richly carved Scuola di S. Marco (1485), once head- 
quarters of a charitable society, now part of vast hospi- 
tal. To S. Zaccaria (1157), a Romanesque ch., with 
paintings by Bellini, the doges used to go in solemn 
procession at beginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where 
Luther once said Mass, is 11th-century Gothic, with 
many statues and a beautiful cloister adjacent. See, 
in 8. Maria del Orto (14S1), splendid Tintorettos; 
S. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures ; S. Maria dei 
Miracoli (1430), a Byzantine Renaissance ch., encased 
in marble, with rich vaulting ; Gli Scalzi (1649), mag- 
nificent ch. of Carmelites, overladen with decorations of 
the Decadence; S. Francesco della Vigna (1534), rich 
carvings and chapels of nobles ; S. Pietro di Gastello, 
Yenice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine cam- 
panile. A second trip may include the chs. S. and W. 
of the Grand Canal-. S. Maria della Salute (1631), 
whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Yenice, 



318 FRARI. — GRAND CANAL. 

a sumptuous ch., with many statues and paintings, 
adjoining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and 
pictures) ; S. Sebastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin 
epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and several of his paintings, 
and organ designed by him ; S. Pantaleone (1668), 
very ancient paintings; 8. Giovanni Elemosinario (1527), 
near Pialto ; S Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. 
The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250), 
contains many famous works of art, costly modern 
monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova 
(designed by himself) and of several doges and generals. 
In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000 
documents, some dating from 883. S. Rocco (1490, 
rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splen- 
did Renaissance Scuola diS. Rocco (1415-1550), crowd- 
ed with pictures by Tintoretto (now sombre in tone), 
and with beautiful facade, staircase, and great halls. 
This council -hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan 
Campo Santo and the Sistine Chapel, by art-lovers. 

The Grand Canal should be traversed by gondola, 
between its lines of famous palaces. On the 1., see 
Doc/ ana (Custom-House), with statue of Portuna on 
tower ; f., Palazzo Giustiniani (Hotel Europa) and 
Emo-Trbves (with Canova' s Hector and Ajax; fee, 
11.). On the 1., Patriarchal Seminary and S. Maria 
clella Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces 
Tiepolo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Perro, Pini-Wimp- 
ffen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Barbaro, on the r., 
and Dario-Angarani, Venier, Da Malay and Zichy- 
Esterhazy, on the 1., and then between Count Cham- 
bord's splendid Palazzo Cavalli (r.) and the vast Palazzo 
Manzoni-Angarini (1.) and under an iron bridge. 
Close to this, on 1., is the Accademia delle Belle 
Arti (daily, 9-4 ; 50 c. ; buy catalogue), with 700 fine 
pictures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini, 



VENICE. 319 

Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and 
many drawings by Raphael and Angelo, in noble old 
monastic halls. This is one of the great sights of 
Venice. Beyond (1.), see Palazzi Contarini, Rezzonico, 
G-iustinicmi, Foscari (here the canal bends), Balbi, 
Pisani, etc., and on r., Palazzi Gram, Moro-Lin, Con- 
tarini, and Mocenigo, the latter a triple palace, in which 
Byron wrote parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where 
now is an art-colleetion. Farther on (r. i, see Palazzi 
Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani(Corted'Appello), 
Farsetti (town-hall), 12th-century Loredan (once home 
of King of Cyprus), Dandolo (Gothic), Bembo, and 
Manin (now National Bank). Then, half-way through 
the canal, comes the famous 

Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (15S8- 
91), covered with shops, and running from the fruit- 
market to the fish-market. Below (1.), see Renaissance 
Palazzo de Camerlenghi (1525), opposite ponderous 
Fondacode' Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian) for 
a German warehouse. Beyond liialto, Pescheria (fizYi- 
rnarket), on 1. ; Palazzi Michieli and Sagredo, on r. ; 
Palazzo Corner della Regina (now pawn-office), on site 
of Catharine Cornaro's home (1.). Nearly opposite is 
the Ca d'Oro, Raskin's favorite, and a very noble palace. 
The Palazzi Eontana and Grimani are beyond (r.) ; 
also, Palazzo Pesaro (1.), whose rich halls are open 
daily (1 1.) Nearly opposite each other, see Palazzo 
Vendraniin Calerg/d, the magnificent modern palace of 
Count de Chambord (open daily, 1 1.), and the Fondaco 
de 1 Turchi, once headquarters of Turkish merchants 
(here see Comer Museum, open Wed. and Sat., 12-4, 
with MSS. and paintings about Venetian history). 
At the Palazzo Labia the Canareggio diverges to the 
r. It contains the Palazzo Manfrin, with large picture- 
gallery (open 10-3, | l.)„ Beyond iron bridge and rly. 



320 S. LAZZ ARO. - MURANO. 

stat.j, the Grand Canal enters the Lagoon, by the 
island of S. Chiara. Near the stat. are the famous 
Papadopoli and Botanical gardens. The theatres are 
the Fenice, seating 3,000 people, Goldoni, Rossini, 
Marionette, and Malibran. See Tintoretto's house, 
in the Campo dei Mori; and Titian's house, in the 
Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La 
Giudecca, with Palladios Redentore ch. (Franciscan); 
and S. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great Benedictine 
monastery, cruciform ch. by Palladio, full of art- 
treasures, and campanile which gives superb view. 
Rather shabby Public Gardens, S.E. part of city. 
2 M. S. E. is the island of S. Lazzaro, with great 
Armenian monastery. 

The islands were first colonized by fugitives from 
the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the 
first doge was chosen; and in 819 the present site of 
Venice became a capital. During the Crusades the 
republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and 
islands of the Adriatic and Levant. For 300 years its 
power was vast, and Venice was Europe's chief port. 
In 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite 
decadent. In 1797 the French captured the city, 
which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866 
it became Italian. 

Excursions. — To the Lido (ihr. by gondola; 60 c. 
to go and return; steamer in 12 min., 30c), the beach 
on the Adriatic, with fine baths (la Favorita, 1 1.) and 
summer-hotels. — To Malamocco, at S. end of Lido; 
and Chioggia (steamer, 1-^—21.), 30 M. S., an ancient 
lagoon-town (27,000 inhab.). — To the Cemetery, on 2 
islands to the N., with S. Michele ch. (1466). Funeral 
processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano 
(4, 000 inhab.), li'M. N., with famous glass and mosaic 
factories, museum of old glass (40 c), a magnificent 
Cathedral (1111), and ch. of S. Pietro e Paolo (1509), 



FERRARA. 321 

a noble and simple basilica. The Murano school of 
art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. 
(2 hrs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and 
depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathe- 
dral, famous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis- 
tery (1008) ; and S. Fosca, a strange 12th-century 
Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades. 

Steamers, Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at midnight for 
Trieste (7 hrs.; fares, 12 1. 60; 8 1. 40. Ely. Venice 
to Trieste, 5f hrs. (fares, 27 f r. 40 ; 19 f r. 65). 

Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma* 

It is 1C1 M. (fares, 19 1. 45 c, 141. 5 c, 101.) from, 
Venice through venerable Padua; Rovigo (Corona 
Ferrea and other hotels), with its vast palace and pic- 
ture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to Bologna. Ferrara 
(Europa; Stella d'Oro; Pellegrino) , in a miasmatic 
piaiu near the Po, has shrunk from 100,000 to 79,000 
inhab., and has many wide empty streets and crumbling 
palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este 
(1300-1600) it was famous for art and letters, and 
Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic 
Cathedral (1135), imposing facade, many pictures, and 
handsome campanile (1550) ; S. Benedetto, with paint- 
ing of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait in- 
troduced ; S. Francesco, several domes ; S. Maria in 
Vado, very aucient ; S. Paolo ; monuments to Ariosto 
and Savonarola; houses of Ariosto and Guarini; Uni- 
versity, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor 
Fido, and parts of G-erusalemme and Orlando Furioso), 
museum, and tomb of Ariosto ; St. Anna's Hospital., 
where Tasso was imprisoned 7 years in a cell, since 
visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe ; and Pa- 
lazzo de' Biamanti (1493-1567), with the Civic Picture- 

21 



322 BOLOGNA. 

Gallery (open 9-3, free), 8 rooms filled with ancient 
paintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress, 
in the centre of Ferrara.with 4 towers, deep moats and 
frescoed halls. Is the scene of Byron's tragic Parisina. 
Bologna (iTo^eZ Brun; Grcond Hotel d Itolie; Pelle- 
grino), capital of Romagna (145,000 inh.) stands on 
a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by 
brick wall, 3-4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan 
town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Carthage : 
occupied by Rome, B.C. 190; then Greek, Lorn-baix^ 
Frank ; a free town under Charlemagne ; anti-imperial 
(Guelph) ; annexed to States of the Church in 1512, 
and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples, 
theatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians. 
It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; and 
the home of Francia, Albano, Domenichino, Guido 
Reni, and Guerciuo (see houses of last two ; and of 
Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S. 
Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan-Gothic ch. (half 
Snished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with many rich 
chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Facade has 
many sculptures (made 1394-1525) of biblical sub- 
jects. Michael Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was 
broken in pieces by the people (1511). Charles V. 
was crowned Emperor here (1530). S. Domenico 
contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures 
by Michael Angelo; and tombs of Guido Reni and 
Elisabetta Sirani. The University is in Palazzo 
Veiled, with 1,400 students ; library of 150,000 vols. 
(open 9-3), once conducted by Mezzofanti ; large 
museums of geology, antiquities, etc. It dates from 
1119, and once had 10,000 students, and several female 
professors. The Academy of Fine Arts (open 9-3.30 ; 
1 1.) is one of the most famous in Italy, and has 
Raphael's St. Cecilia. The lluseo Civico is in the 
Palazzo Galvani (1 fr., Sun. and holidays free). 



BOLOGNA. 323 

See, in S. Bartolommeo, horrible portrayal of 
martyrdom of St. Bartholomew; S. Cecilia (1481), 
frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. Catherine 
Vigri; S. Stefano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old 
Celestine cloister ; S. Giovanni in Monte (a.d. 433), 
precious paintings; S. Vitale (a.d. 428), lately re- 
stored; and other very notable and ancient chs. 
Also, Palazzo Publico (1290), ancient frescos, 
statues, chapel, and Bramante's staircase; Palazzo 
del Podestd (1201), where King Enzio, son of the 
Emperor, was imprisoned many years; Oploteca, 
museum of weapons; leaning towers of Asinelli 
(1109; 272 ft. high; grand view of mts.) and Gari- 
senda (1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno); Archi- 
ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4), museum of 
antiquities, Galvani's anatomical lecture-room; Pa- 
lazzo Bentivoglio, 16th century, on site of old Castle; 
Palazzo Fava, and Collegio di Spagna(lSQ4:), frescos 
by Caracci ; Loggia de* Mercanti (1294), venerable 
Gothic exchange; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, and S. 
Domenico, fountain and statues; Palazzo Pepoli 
(1344), vast and imposing ; Palazzo Zampieri, with 
great picture-gallery (i 1.) ; and many other palaces. 

La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, 
with views of Bologna and the Appenines. f M. S. 
is S. Michele in Bosco, orthopedic institute, for- 
merly convent founded by St. Basil in 4th century, 
in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci 
left noble paintings. 2£ M. S.-W. is the Madonna 
di S. Luca, a pilgrimage-ch. on strongly fortified 
hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches-; 
100 years in building), and viewing Apennines 
and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the Virgin, 
ascribed to St. Luke, brought from Constantinople 
in 1160. On the way hither, visit La Certosa, a 
Carthusian monastery (1335), whose cloisters now con- 
i&m very interesting Campo /Santo (cemetery), with 



324 MODENA. — PARMA. 

i 

rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a col- 
ossal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty. 

If you intend going S. to Rome, and thence N. 
along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side- 
trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma 
(54 M.). 

Modena (Albergo Reale; S. Marco), an ancient 
ducal capital (58,000 inhab.), was once an important 
Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b.c. 43), 
on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately 
city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are prome- 
nades. See Cathedral (1099-1184), with Arthurian 
sculptures (1100), rose-window, monumental tombs, 
and lofty colonnaded crypt ; renowned Campanile, 
called La Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, en- 
cased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from 
the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem 
about it, has a statue near by) ; S. Michele, in which 
Muratori is buried; Begarelli's Pieta, which Michael 
Angelo praised; Public Gardens; and ramparts, with 
views of Appenines. The vast and m&gniticentPalazzo 
Meale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble facade on 
Piazza Reale, and a courtyard surrounded by colon- 
nades. See Library, 120,000 vols, and 3,000 MSS. 
(14th-century edition of Dante); cabinets of medals 
and gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures (open 
9-3), many of which are copies, a fact which the 
catalogue omits to state. 

Parma (Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia), founded 
by the Etruscans; became Roman, b.c. 183; was 
Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a 
Guelphic stronghold; seat of the Farnese princes, 
1545-1731; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until 
1859, when it fell to Italy (45,000 inhab.). The Ro- 
man Via Emilia cuts through its centre; and dreary, 
silent streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur- 



KEGGIO. — RAVENNA. 325 

rounded by great walls, with 5 gates and a strong 
citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13 century), 
with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio's 
vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption; 
Baptistery (1196-1270), octagonal marble ch., with 
colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni 
Eoangelista (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio 
in dome and cloisters ; Madonna delta Steccata (1521), 
fine frescos, and tombs of notables ; Convent of S. 
Paolo (50 c), with Correggio's famous lunettes and 
Diana; Farnese Theatre (50c); Stradone, promenade 
near citadel ; and Public Garden, with an old Farnese 
chateau, richly frescoed. The Ducal Palace (Farnese), 
founded 1597, has museums of antiquities and pictures 
(open 9-4 ; 1 1.), with many famous works of Correggio 
and the Caracci, including Correggio's Scala and Sco- 
della Madonnas and St. Jerome (II Giorno). The Library 
h?is 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Picturesque 
old road from Parma to La Spezia, on Gulf of Genoa. 

Reggio (Postal), between Parma and Modena, 
(50,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, theatre, 
and cathedral, fine chs., and Ariosto's birthplace, is 9 
M. from Correggio, the great artist's birthplace , and 
4 hrs. drive from ruins of Canossa, where Henry IV. 
of Germany performed penance before Pope Gregory 
VII. (1077). 

Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, 
and Taranto. 

From Bologna it is 52| M. (9|1. 3 61. 70 c, 4L 
80 c.) to Ravenna ((Ifyrow; Spada d'Oro), a Thes- 
salian colony, once capital of Roman empire; captured 
by Odoacer and Theodoric; capital of the Gothic kings, 
493-552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exarchs; r,r 



326 KAVENNA. — DANTE'S TOMB. 

governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by Lom- 
bards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it to the 
Pope ; Venetian garrison, 1440-1509 ; and attached to 
States of the Church, 1509-1860. It is now a dreamy 
town of 62,000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art; 
and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a 
chief port. Dante's Tomb (1482), a dome-covered 
structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered 
in 1865 in ch. of S. Francesco) of the poet, who 
died here, in exile and under excommunication, in 1321. 
Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several 
great poems. See site of the house wh^re Dante 
lived; in Piazza Vittoria Emanuele, tall columns with 
statues, erected by the Venetians in 1494, and colon- 
nade of old basilica; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century 
ch., with 8th-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-cen- 
tury tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by Guido ; 
4th-century octagonal Baptistery, with 5th-century 
font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ, etc.) ; Archiepisco- 
pal Palace, 5th-century chapel, 25,000 parchments in 
archives ; S. Apollinare, built in 500 by Theodoric for 
the Arians, and given by' Justinian to the Catholics, 
with round campanile, 24 columns from Constantinople, 
and many 6th-century mosaics ; S. Vitale, consecrated 
in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at 
Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pillars, many 
beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian's time, 
Greek and Boman reliefs, and a dome of earthen vases 
bound together ; Mausoleum of Gall a Placidia, built 
440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform 
ch., with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and 
Constantius III. (the only Boman emperors whose 
tombs remain undisturbed)', Academy of Fine Arh 
(75 c), pictures by Bavennese masters, vases, bronzes ; 
Library (open 9-2) of 50,000 vols., and many rare 



RIMINI. — SAN MARINO. 327 

MSS. } in old Monastery of Classe, which has frescoed 
refectory ; S. Niccolb (760), now deserted ; S. Gio- 
vanni Evangelista (444), near rly. stat., 24 antique col- 
umns, and frescos by Giotto ; remains of Palace of 
Theodoric ; and many other old chs. and great palaces. 

Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theodoric 
the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.) 
covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter. 
S. Maria in Porta Fuori, 2| M. out, is an open-roofed 
basilica (1096). S. Apollinare in Classe (a.d. 534), 
3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipolline 
columns, open roof, 6th-century mosaics, a noble altar, 
and portraits of 126 bishops of Ravenna, from St. 
Apollinaris (martyred a.d. 74) to the present. Beyond 
is La Pineta, the famous and venerable pine-forest, 
known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, 
Dante, etc., and covering many leagues. Highway 
along coast to Rimini, 31 M. 

The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola ; Castel 
Bolognese ; Faenza {Corona; Vittoria), a walled 
town of 20,000 inhab., with great citadel and potteries 
(whence Faience) ; Forli (17,000 inhab.), at foot of 
Apennines, with fine cathedral and castles; Cessna with 
handsome palaces and rare library; Rimini (Leon 
aVOro; Aquila d'Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inh.) and 
summer resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent class- 
ical cathedral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman 
triumphal arch and bridge, and house of Francesca da 
Rimini (25 1. for carriage thence, 15 M., to San Marino, 
capital of Republic of same name, the oldest govern- 
ment in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to 
Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there are fine 
chs., a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of 
Urbino, once a brilliant literary centre. Here Tasso 
wrote the Amadis. Diligence in 6 hrs. (21i M.) to 



328 ANCONA. — PISTOJA. 

TJrbino (Italia), a town of 16,000 inhab., surrounded 
by sombre mts. Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also, 
grand Renaissance Ducal Palace, and chs. rich in art. 

Ancona (La Pace ; Vittorid) is built on an amphi- 
theatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 46,000 
inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (col- 
umns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of 
Cavour, handsome palaces, and (on the Mold) tri- 
umphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, a.d. 112, to 
Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII. 

1*1-14 hrs. distant by rly. (621. 80 c, 441., 311. 
40 c.) is Brindisi [International; Centrale; Europa; 
tolerable), once an important Roman naval station, 
and now the chief point of departure for fhe East 
Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is 
growing rapidly 27,000 inhab.), and is visited bj 
steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantim 
ports (3 clays to Alexandria). Here the Appian Wa) 
ended; and here Virgil died. 

52f M. hence by rly. (10 1. 60 c, 6 1. 70 c, 4 1. 80 c.) 
to Otranto, a port on the heel of the Italian boot. 
Br. ry. from Bari to Taranto (Aquila oVOro; Europa), 
with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle. 

Ancona to Rome by rly., 183 M. (351., 241. 70 c). 
Few tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast. 

Bologna to Florence, in 82 M. (5-6 hrs. ; fares, 
141. 20 c, 101. 45 c, 71. 55 c), by remarkably pictu- 
resque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly 
bridges, tunnels, galleries, and viaducts, and down to 
the rich Tuscan plains (superb views) . Pistoja ( Gloho) 
is an ancient town of 13,000 inhabitants, at foot 
of Apennines, rich in 13th and 14th-century sculptures, 
and a favorite summer-resort for Florentines. Pistols 
are named from this town. Catiline was defeated and 
killed near by. See, in 12th-century Cathedral, monu- 



FLORENCE. 329 

ments, choir-stalls, and silver altar ; Campanile, once a 
fortified tower ; Italian-Gothic Baptistery, of black and 
white marble; S. Andrea, splendid pulpit (12&8-1301) 
and carved architrave; several other rich chs. and 
massive old palaces; and suburban Villa Puccini, in 
beautiful gardens. 

Pistoja to Pisa, 40| M. (6 1. 60 c, 5 1. 35 c, 4|1.) ; 
to Florence, 21^ M. ; 45 min. 

Florence. k 

Hotels : Grand ; Florence and Washington ; 
New York', Italie; de la Ville; Palace; Cavour; 
d' Europe; Porta Rossa; Victoria-, Alliance; Anglo- 
American; Minerva Paoli; Albion; Bristol; Grande 
Bretagne. There are also many excellent pensions 
where those making a long stay can live cheaply and 
well. Furnished apartments may also be had reason- 
ably, meals being prepared at home, sent in from 
one of the trattorie, or taken in the restaurants. 

Theatres: Nicolini; della Pergola; Politeama 
Nazionale (fine summer theatre) ; Verdi; Alhambra. 
British, Yia Tornabuoni, No. 2. 

Florentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ ; 
ravaged by the barbarians ; rose to great commercial 
importance by 1100 ; suffered from centuries of civil 
conflicts and foreign wars ; ruled by the Medici family, 
X434-1737 ; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1737 
-I860 ; and was capital of Italy, 1864-70. Since 1870 
it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, 
but is a favorite winter-resort, by reason of its vast 
art-treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of living. 
It stands on a narrow plain, partly surrounded by 
the Apennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two 
by the river Arno, which is nearly dry in summer. 
There are 200,000 inhab. 



330 PALAZZO VECCHIO. — UFFIZI GALLERY. 

The Piazza della Bignoria, the central square*, 
forum of the Republic, and present business-centre, ie 
adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cosmo, marble 
lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 1564-75, on 
site of Savonarola's martyrdom. Here fronts the 
Palazzo Vecchio (buiit 1298), once capitol of He- 
public and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, ■ — a 
tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by 
Bandinelli's statues of Hercules and Cacus) the court- 
yard, with Michelozzi's dainty arabesques, Yasari's 
fountain, Verocchio's statue of a boy. The Hall of the 
Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola's order. 
Italian Parliament sat here, 1865-70. Yasari and oth- 
ers made many of the frescos ; and two very famous 
cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this 
hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town- 
council ; Hall of the Lilies, with rich marble work ; and 
Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo del 
Cambio, 308 ft. high (450 steps), gives a grand view. 
Its bell was the rallving-souncl in the civil wars. In 
front is the Loggia dei Lansi, a very graceful arcade 
built in 1376 for Cosmo's guards of lancers ; later, a 
tribune whence the people were harangued ; and now 
containing celebrated statues, — Benvenuto Cellini's 
"Perseus," Donatello's '•'Judith," Giovanni da Bo- 
logna's " Hercules," etc. Alongside Palazzo Yecchio, 
see Palazzo JJguccione, planned by Raphael ; opposite 
which is new Palazzo Fenzi, in Early Florentine style. 
Between Yecchio and Loggia, enter Portico degli Uffizi, 
built by Yasari, 1560-74, with marble statues of 24 
famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint, now 
Post- Office ; on 1. , to the world-renowned 

-Uffizi Gallery (open 10-4, adm. 1 fr., Sundays 
free; catalogues, 3^- 1.), the vast art-collections 
made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See Niooe 



FLORENCE. 331 

&a 7 l. siQ.l'4ae.statues of Niobe and her children ; hall 
of portraits of painters, made by themselves ; Tribuna, 
with Venus de Medici, Wrestlers, Apollino, and many 
celebrated paintings ; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes, 
and vases ; vast collections of Memish, German, Dutch, 
and Venetian pictures ; and masterpieces of Raphael, 
Titian, Correggio, etc. The National Library (open 
10-4) has 480,000 vols., 18,000 MSS., rare books, and 
the great Tuscan archives. 

The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Arno,. 
was begun in 1410, on Brunelleschi's plans, for the 
merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici, 
who made it their home, and had Vasari join it to the 
Palazzo Vecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now tilled 
with rare drawings by Italian masters). Tiie Pitti is 
occasionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft. 
high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 ft. long. 
On the second floor is a gallery (Tue., Thurs., Sun., 
10-4) of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent sa- 
loons, richly frescoed and adorned with tables and 
cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. 
Here are some of the best works of Raphael, Titian,, 
etc. The Boboli Garden (open Tries., Thurs., 
Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500, 
and its hill-terraces command noble views of Florence 
(especially from Belvedere) . See ampitheatre, grotto, 
obelisk, Neptune's statue (by Giovanni da Bologna), 
etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Mu- 
seum of Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, and 
one of his fingers ; also rare botanical collections. 

The Academy of Fine Arts (open 10-4, 1 1. ; 
Suns, and festivals free) contains schools of design, 
painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, 
etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures 
snowing the development of Tuscan art. The lowei 



332 NATIONAL MUSEUM. — CATHEDRAL. 

halls contain modern paintings. The court is decorated 
with reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is 
Michael Angelo's celebrated statue of David. Floren- 
tine Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open 
daily). Close by, in cloisters of the Scaizo, fine frescos 
by Andrea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino, built 1570. 
In same square is Ch. of S. Marco (1290), with many 
pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico 
della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Domini- 
can Monastery of S. Marco, now occupied by a museum 
(open 10-4, 1 1. ; free Sun. ; guide-book, \\\.) of choice 
works of old masters, great number of frescos by Era 
Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refectory. See 
cell of Savonarola. Fra Angelico, Fra Bartolommeo, 
St. Antoninus, and Politian were monks here. The 
dccademia della Or^sca, founded in 1582 to preserve 
the purity of the Italian language, is established here. 

The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. ; Sun. free) 
has a hall of mediseval bronzes, w T ith Giovanni da 
Bologna's celebrated " Mercury," Douatello's "David," 
"St George," and 8 other works; Carrand collection 
of paintings; a collection of weapons; statuary by 
Angelo, Baudinelli, etc.; ancient furniture ; faience; 
celebrated fiescos by Giotto, in old chapel; rich terra- 
cottas ; stained glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del 
Podesta, or II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine 
chief magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed by 
the populace. The curfew was sounded from the cam- 
panile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See 
picturesque court. 

The Cathedral of hia. Maria del Fiore (so called 
from the lily in the arms of Florence), one of the grand- 
est Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294-1474, by 
Arnolfo, Giotto, Gaddi and Orcagna, on site of older 
eh. of S. Reparata, and is 556| ft. long, and 342 ft. 



FLORENCE. 333 

wide (at transepts), with walls of beautiful white and 
colored marbles. The nave is 154 ft. high. Beautiful 
porch on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of 
lions •, and over the door statues by Donatello and 
Jacopo della Querela. The interior is impressive, but 
simple, with huge pillars flanking the lofty nave, rich 
marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See 
Jacopo della Quercia's "Madonna," Uccello's frescos, 
Gaddi's mosaics, Angelo's " Entombment ; " bronze 
doors, by Luca della Robbia; statues, portraits, and 
tombs of many celebrated Florentines. It is a perfect 
treasure-house of art. The stained glass was designed 
by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The 
Dome, 352 ft. high, made by Brunelleschi (1421-36) is 
higher than that of St. Peter's, and may be ascended 
(463 steps ; 57 more to the Cross ; fee, 1 1.). Interest- 
ing details, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel 
laid foundations of new main facade in 1860. In this 
ch. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the daggers of the 
Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic ; 
and Frederick II. of Germany knighted many of his 
fierce captains. In the Opera del Duomo is the 
Cathedral Museum {\ fr.). 

The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most marvellous 
beR-tower in the world, is Giotto's noblest work 
(1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which 
the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate 
tracery around windows, and many statues and reliefs 
by Giotto, Donatello, and other masters. The tower is 
built of variegated marbles. Fee to ascend, 1 1. Noble 
view of Florence and Apennines (414 steps). Along- 
side is the famous ch. of the Misericordia, whose 
cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets and 
opposite is the Canonry, with statues of Arnolfo and 
Brunelleschi. See Sasso di Dante, near by, a stone oo 
which Dante used to sit. 



334 BAPTISTERY. 

The Baptistery of S. Giovanni (6th century;, oppo- 
site the Cathedral, is an octagonal marble ch., 94 ft. in 
diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a 
cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated bronze 
doors (1408-52), with 10 Old-Testament scenes, and 
28 from life of Christ and early Church history. 
Michael Angelo declared these worthy to be the gates 
of Paradise (see also George Eliot's Romola). At 
the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 
1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. 
John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside are 
many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental-granite col- 
umns, and tomb of Pope John XXIII. SS. Annun- 
ziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sarto's best works, 
sumptuous chapels, and cloisters. S. Croce, built 
(1294-1442) by Arnolfo and Yasari, is an imposing 
cruciform basilica, with modern facade of black and 
white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and 
refectory (many paintings). In this vast old Floren- 
tine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Michael Angelo, 
Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini, 
Ugo Poscolo, and other great men; and monuments to 
Dante and Alfieri. Rare treasures of art, including 
many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern 
statue of Dante. S. Lorenzo, consecrated by St. 
Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, 
from Brunelleschi's and Michael Angelo' s plans, is a 
sumptuous Romanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinth- 
ian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, "Pather of 
his People ; " and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi, 
Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristy 
are Angelo's Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over 
the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes 
(1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, 
for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined 



FLORENCE. 335 

with precious marbles, mosaics, and frescos. Adjacent, 
see Laurentian Library (open 9-3 ; \-\ 1.), founded 
1444 by Cosmo, in building planned by Michael 
Angelo. Priceless old vols, and 8,000 MSS., many of ' 
them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and 
of Virgil, iEschylus, etc. j 

S. Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful cV 
of black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive 
interior, on slender pillars. See Ghirlandajo's famous 
frescos, in choir ; Brunelleschi's crucifix, in Gondi 
Chapel ; Cimabue's Madonna, borne in triumph by the 
Florentines from the studio to the ch. ; Orcagna's 
frescos, in Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister ; vast 
Giottesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great 
Cloisters, the largest in Florence. See, also, in S. 
Maria Maddalena, fresco by Perugino; La Badia, 
with ancient tombs and tall tower ; Or San Michele, 
built in 1284 by Arnolfo for a corn-hall, and made a- 
Gothic ch. in 1337-55, with many statues by the great 
masters, and altar by Orcagna (1359) ; S. Trinita 
(1250) ; Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's 
famous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, An- 
gelo, and Leonardo). See, also, Marucellian library, 
70,000 vols. ; Riccardian library, containing oldest 
MS. in existence (Pliny) ; houses of Benvenuto Cel- 
lini, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Ves- 
pucci, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Guicciardini, Andrea del 
Sarto ; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters 
(especially Poundling Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy 
Mercato Nuovo ; and interesting great Egyptian and 
Etruscan Museum (open 9-3 ; 1 1.), in refectory of old 
Convent of S. Onofrio, vases, reliefs, implements, etc., 
and fresco (1505) of "Last Supper;" and house of 
Michael Angelo (daily, 10-4; -£- f r. ; Hon., Thurs., 
free) , with museum of works &nd relics of Angelo. 

There are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by 



336 LUNG' ARNO. 

illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolfi (Hue 
cellai), which was sacked by the people in 1527 ; Altoviti, 
with marble portraits of famous Florentines ; Corsini, 
very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open lues., 
Fri., and Sat.) ■ Strozzi, 3 vast facades, a very perfect 
and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open) : Ric- 
cardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici 
(see chapel and courts) ; Fontebuoni, where Alfieri 
died; Spini, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565); 
Panciatichi, with picture-gallery ; and Torrigiano, with 
large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens. 

The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of 
the Lung' Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the 
picturesque Ponte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops; 
elegant Ponte S. Trinita, built 1252 ; Ponte alia Car- 
raja (1218), often restored; Ponte alle Grazie (1235) ; 
and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via dei Calzajuoli, from 
cathedral to Uffizi, and Via Tornabuoni are the busiest 
streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned 
with statues and fountains. 

Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park extend- 
ing 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has 
favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoological 
garden, etc.). — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza 
Michael Angela, a beautiful esplanade (dedicated 
1875), witli monument and bronze copies of Angelo's 
works. — S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far- viewing 
hill on E., in Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with 
rich facade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open 
roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and 
finely frescoed sacristy. Charming view of Florence. 
— Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands 
a iamous view over city and mts. — The Poggio Im- 
periale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns' school, is out- 
side and above the Porta Romana, reached by fine 
aveaiue of trees. NBasT!^ fe the tower "wliieJa was 



FIESOLE. — VALLOMBROSA. 337 

Galileo's observatory ; also, villa where lie lived, 
1631-42, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent 
villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La 
Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a rast and 
fortress-like Carthusian monastery, built 1341, from 
Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monuments, etc., in 
en,, cloisters, and chapter-house (11.). — Monte Oli- 
veto, 1 M. from Porta S. Frediano, is a monastery 
(1331), whence grand views. — Villa San Donato 
(Demidoff), open Mon. and Fri. (5 1.). — Villa Ca- 
reggi, 2-3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic 
Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Poggio 
a Cajano, royal villa, 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa delict 
Petraia, another royal residence. — Pratolino, former 
forest-palace of Medici. 

Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Florence, beyond convent where 
Fra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains 
parts of vast walls. See also Cathedral (1028), and 
old palaces adjacent; Franciscan convent, on site of 
Acropolis; ancient theatre (50c); splendid abbey; 
and fascinating views of Yal d' Arno. 

Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apennines, 
may be visited in a day. Yast abbey, founded 1050, 
now a school of forestry. 1 hr.'s climb hence to top of 
Pratomagno, 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Medi- 
terranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casen- 
tino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and 
Aloernia. 

Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, fc'oligno, Siena, 

From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by 
the shortest route, through. Arezzo, Orvieto, and Orte (195f 
M. ; fares, 33 1. 85 c, 23 1. 30 c, 16£ 1. ; by express -trains, 
381. 5c, 261.40 c). Fares by express fr«na Florence to 
Arezzo, 54* M ., 10 1. 10 c, 7 1. 5c. 



338 AREZZO. — PERUGIA. 

Beautiful mt. scenery on the long ascent to 
A.rezzo(¥itto?'ia; La Stella; Ing7iilterra),2tf\ ancient 
Etruscan city "which became an aliy of Rome, B.C. 310. 
Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and other famous men 
were born. It now has 18,000 inhab. See Italian- 
Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs, 
etc. S. Maria della Pieve, remarkable i a fade ; S. Fran- 
cesco, interesting frescos ; Museum, majolicas, bronzes, 
antiques ; Abbey of S. Flora ; old palaces, clis., and 
statues. Cortona (Nazionale), another Etruscan 
town, has great Cathedral, Museum, vast Etruscan 
walls, and fortress (superb view). Rly. runs near Lake 
Thrasymene and the lovely Yal di Chiana. Orvieto 
{Belle Arti ; Aquila Bianca : omnibus from stat., 1 1.) 
stands on a lofty volcanic rock ; and has a magnificent 
Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and white marble, with 
nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings, 
shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Era An- 
gelico. The route hence to Rome leads by Monte 
Rotondo and Mentana, where Garibaldi was defeated in 

1867- 

A longer rly. route to Rome leads from Cortona. 
along Lake Thrasymene (30 X 8 M. in area; near by, 
Hannibal annihilated the Roman army, B.c. 217), to 

Perugia ( Grand; Palace; Grande Bretagne; Belle 
Arti). once Etruscan, now capital of Umbria (19,000 
inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 monasteries. See great 
15th-century Cathedral ; S. Pietro de > Casinense, 18 
antique columns, choir-stalls designed by Raphael ; S. 
Severo, with Raphael's first fresco ; S. Domenico, tomb 
of Pope Benedict XI. ; University (50 c), founded 
1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiqui- 
ties, etc. ; Arch of Augustus, an ancient city-gate ; 
Perugino's house ; Etruscan cemetery ; and confections 
in several palaces. Superb views over Tiber valley and 



SIENA. 339 

Apennines. Assisi, perched on a high hill, was the 
birthplace of St. Francis, and has vast Franciscan mon- 
astery (fee to monk, 1 1.), and its wonderful Gothic 
double ch., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and 
other treasures. Foligno (23,000 inhab.) has 6 inter- 
esting clis. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe 
earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rome passes Trevi, 
Spoleto, and Term (beautiful falls here). 

A still longer route is from Florence to Siena (59 M. ; 
fares, 101.85 c, 7|1., 5 1.30 c), passing Certaldo, 
where Boccaccio died ; and Poggibonsi (whence carriages 
to San Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting 
chs., and many works of art. 

Siena {Hotel de Sienne; Continental), city of 23,000 
(once 200,000) inhab., celebrated for ancient school of 
devotional art, for pretty women, healthy climate, and 
purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have 
distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathe- 
dral, of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in 
sculptures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, 
etc. ; Library (1495), frescos by Pinturicchio and Ra- 
phael ; notable Campanile, Baptistery ', and Pellegrinajo 
hospital ; S. Domenico, S. Francesco, S. Bernardino, and 
other chs. ; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena ; Institute 
of Fine Arts (open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures, 
including Sodoma's " Descent from the Cross ; " Pa- 
lazzo Publico (1293-1309), with many stately and richly 
furnished halls ; Campanile, which Leonardo da Vinci 
admired; handsome Palazzo del Govemo (1469), with 
30,000 parchments, some dating from 814 ; Loggia di 
S. Paolo (1417) ; other palaces of nolle period of archie 
tecture ; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda ; La Lizza, 
the promenade; the University; the Opera del Du- 
omo, now Cathedral Museum... Excursions to ISOs- 
servanza monastery and Belcaro castle. 



340 ROME. 

Rome. 

Hotels.— Quirinal; Regina; Grand; Royal; Excelsior; 
Bristol; de Russie; Savoy; Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; Berto- 
UnVs Splendid; Suissn; Primavera; Victoria; Anglctcrre; 
Italic; Hassler (German); Anglo - Amcricainc; Marini; 
Michel; Campidoglio; Laurati; Helvetia; Minerva; Milano; 
National. There are also many good pensions suitable for 
a long stay. 

Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces 
obtained from hotel proprietor or guide, or from appointed 
officials. Get Baedeker's Central Italy, compact and 
practical ; Hare's WalliS in Rome; Murray's Rome is good 
reading, but bulky ; Hachette's Rome et ses Environs is 
good. 

Old travelers advise that mornings at Rome be given to 
the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins 
and fragments of the Imperial city. 

A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in 
the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the 
city can be gained in less than 10-12 days. If the traveller 
can give it but 7-8 days, he should devote the time equally 
between the classic remains and the great chs. and 
modern institutions. American Ch. of St. Paul, on Via 
Nazionale. 

Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to Romulus 
and Remus, B.C. 753. It is probably much older. King 
Tarquin was expelled, B.C. 509; the republic lasted 480 
years, conquering the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, 
Lucanians, etc. B.C. 390 the Gauls took Rome. Then 
came wars with Carthage (B.C. 264-241, 219-202, and 149- 
146); conquest of Corsica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (B.C. 197- 
178), Greece (B.C. 214-205, 200-197, 172-168, and 146) , Pergamus 
(129), Provence (118), and Gaul (58-50). B.C. 29, Augustus 
Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast 
empire. Constantine (324-337 a.d.) made Christianity the 
State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to 
Constantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric 410, then by 



ROME. 341 

Qenseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the 
Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the Goth Totila took the 
city. Leo the Great (440-461) and Gregory the Great (590- 
604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin 
(755) and Charlemagne (800). 

Rome, " the Eternal City," the capital of Italy 
(430,000 inhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15% M. from 
its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate 
Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, 
with the low Vatican aud Janiculan Hills on the r., and 
on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, 
Esquiline, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the 
Palatine aud Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the 
famous "Seven Hills"). The space within the walls 
is about the same as in Aurelian's time, but -f of it is 
in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustau age, it is 
divided into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical 
population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow 
and unattractive ; but the Corso, Yia Babuino, Ripetta, 
and a few others are filled with splendid shops and 
animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. 
The river often overflowed its banks and made lakes 
of the lower squares before embankments were built. 

The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 
55 ft. high, and about 1600 years old, though restored 
by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now 
open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo, 
built in 1561 by Vignola; next is Pinciana, closed in 
1808 ; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where 
Alaric entered Rome ; Pia, built from Angelo's designs 
in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870 \ 
Nomentana, closed since 1564 ; Tiburtina, long ago 
sealed up ; S. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the 
Tivoli road ; the rly. gate ; Porta Maggiore, part of 
Claudian Aqueduct (a.d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian, 



342 AQUEDUCTS. — PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. 

and a fortress by the Colonnas, and commanding the 
Pales trina road ; , S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Al- 
bano road ; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius 
marched into Rome ; Metronia, closed ; Latina (closed 
1808), over Via Latina, to Capua ; S. Sebastiano, with 
towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way; S. Paolo, at 
foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of 
Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river ; S. Pancrazio, on 
Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and 
ruined by their artillery ; Cavalleggieri, close to St. 
Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon 
entered in 1527, and the French were repulsed in 1849 ; 
Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to Monte 
Mario ; and Castello (closed). 

The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman archi- 
tecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades 
running for leagues over the Campagna. The Aqua 
Marcia, built B.C. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the 
purest of water from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. 
The Aqua Claudia (a.d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 
58f M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 
M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for his baths, 
leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and 
breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice 
(built by Sixtus Y., in 1585) leads from the Alban 
mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied. 

The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of 
Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and 
Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk 
(set up here in 1589), fountains, aud statues. S. Maria 
del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, 
has many prelates' tombs, rich paintings, and a beau- 
tiful chapel by Raphael. 2 other high-domed chs. 
front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa- 
vorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill 



ROME 343 

(once Lucullus's gardens), with grand views. The 
Villa Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-aca- 
demy and collections (open daily, except Sat.). The 
Villa Borghese, outside Porta del Popolo, has 
lovely gardens, with Raphael's villa, and a casino 
devoted to sculptures (including Canova's Pauline 
Bonaparte) and paintings. 

The Piazza di Spagna contains Bernini's Bar- 
caccia fountain; Pius IX's Column of the Immaculate 
Conception (with 5 statues); the Palace of Spain 
(Spanish embassy) ; and College of Propaganda Fide 
(1662). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends hence 
to SS. Trinita de' Monti (1495), a stately ch. with 
many paintings and charming music (by nuns). At 
foot of Spanish Stairs, on left, is the house in which 
Keats passed the last 4 months of his life, and in 
which he died on the night of February 23-24, 1821. 
A commemorative tablet is placed on the house on a 
level with the apartment occupied by Keats and his 
friend and devoted nurse, the painter Joseph Severn, 
who is buried beside him in the Protestant cemetery. 
This house is now owned by the Keats-Shelley 
Memorial Association, and was purchased by a fund 
contributed by English and Americans. The rooms 
of the Keats apartment have been fitted up by addi- 
tional funds furnished by Americans and are devoted 
in large part to a library of the works, portraits and 
other memorials of Keats and Shelley (open daily, 
50c.) One of the rooms, furnished by members of 
the New York Stock Exchange, is dedicated to the 
memory of the late Edmund Clarence Stedman. 

The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fla- 
minia. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo 
Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo; 
Goethe's house (No. 20); great Hospital of Incur- 
ables (founded 1338); Palazzo Ruspoli (1586); /SI 



344 PALACES ON THE CORsG. 

Lorenzo in Lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of N 
Poussin; Palazzo Fiano ; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. 8il 
vestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Ch 
(1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights of MaUa ; 
Palazzo Torlonia ; and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val. 
uable art-collections and library. Here opens the 
handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar- 
cus Aurelius, 95 ft. high, adorned with spiral reliefs o f 
Aurelius's wars on the Danube. On one side sei 
palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veii 
beyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio, with Italia* 
Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. I 
front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egyp' 
Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by P 
lazzi Piombino and Ferajuoli. Farther down Cors 
on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra 
Colonna, with a fine picture-gallery. Farther on, 
opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of 8. Marcello 
(a.d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consaivi's 
tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo 
Doria (open Tues. and Fri. : il.), with large arcaded 
courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in 
each room), including works of llaphael, Claude, 
Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati, 
back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo 
Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) 
is the Piazza di Venezia, at end of Corso, on which 
fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia 
(1455), which Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian 
embassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for 
its works of art ; 8. Marco (a.d. 325 ; rebuilt in 833), 
with mosaics and paintings; popular and gorgeous 
Jesuit Ch. of Gesu( 1568-77), lined with costly marble, 
with columns of lapis lazuli and gilder] bronze, many 
statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola, Adjacent 
is the former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's cell, etc. 



ROME. 345 

The Tomb of Augustus (-J- 1.), where Augustus, Mar- 
cellus (see Virgil), and other emperors and princes 
were buried, afterwards became a fortress of the 
Colonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but 
partly preserved, near the Ripetta,or harbor for barges 
and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a 
huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The 
picture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of the 
Villi, Borghese, outside of the Porta del Popolo 
(daily 11-5, adm. lfr.; Sun. 10-1, free). In this 
wonderful collection see especially Domenichino's 
Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and Profane Love, 
Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, and Caesar Borgia, 
and Correggio's Danae. 

The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and 
healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the 
Popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has 
occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809 
by Napoleon; and here he died in 1823. See frescos 
in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, a fac-simile (in form) 
of the Sistine ; Audience Hall ; frescos by Raphael, 
Overbeck,etc. ; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor 
Francis I., and King Francis II. of Naples. In front 
is Piazza di Monte Gavallo,with obelisk.great granite 
fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups, 
the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. 
Near Quirinal stands Consulta Palace, now Govern- 
ment offices; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), with 
casino (Wed. and Sat.; 9-3), full of priceless pic- 
tures, including Guido's Aurora; S. Silvestro ch., 
with Domenichino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and 
Gonti towers. 

Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults con- 
taining 4,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin Monks, 
many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations. In 



346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN. 

rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city-wa£, 
with Juno Ludovisi, Guercino's Aurora, etc., in its 
embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barberini (see 
Bernini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa- 
lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique 
sculptures and Picture-Gallery (open daily, 12-5), 
containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so-called Griii- 
do's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall, see 
Pietro da Cortona's fresco, " The Triumph of Glory." 
The library was added to the Vatican Library in 1902. 

On Piazza di SS. Apostoli, see ch. (555; restored # 
1872) with monuments byCanova ; Valentino, Odes- 
calchi, and Buffo Palaces; and Palazzo Colonna 
(1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques, 
Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old pictures 
(open daily, 11-3; names of pictures on frames). 

The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were 
once the largest in Borne, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 
bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris- 
tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into 
Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli, by Michael Angelo 
(1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16 
columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, Houdon's 
statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino's wonderful frescos, 
and tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. Other 
halls of the Baths are ugw military storehouses, etc. ; 
as also is Carthusian Monastery, one of whose cloisters 
has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A 
fragment of the Wall of Servhts is in the rly.-stat. 

The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is 
on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an 
ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze 
statue of Madonna. Pirst ch. here built by Pope 
Liberius (in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous 
fall of snow in August. Present nave (279 X 57 ft.) 



ROME. 347 

built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from 
Temple of Juno), and 5tli-century mosaics on archi- 
trave, walls, and arch. Impressive facade, with 5 por- 
tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interesting old 
mosaics. See high altar*, a porphyry sarcophagus con- 
taining St. Matthew's remains, with canopy on 4 
porphyry columns ; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis 
lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Luke ; 
Chapel (with 10 porphyry columns) containing manger- 
cradle of Christ : tombs of 6 popes ; sumptuous Six- 
tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from 
America was given to the Pope by Ferdinand and 
Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. 
Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and 
mosaics, should be visited several times. 

Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where do- 
mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. ; 
Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a.d. 262) ; S. Eusebio, 
frescoed by Raphael Mengs ; tower of Aqua Claudia; 
S. Prassede (882; restored in 1450 and 1869), with 
9th-century mosaics, column at which Christ was 
scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and 
Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold; 
S. Pudenziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 
4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried bs- 
neath) ; S. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 42 
antique columns, and frescos by Poussin ; and S. 
Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia 
to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric 
columns, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo's 
famous statue of Moses. 

The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old 
Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's son-in- 
law, Agrippa, B.C. 27 i burnt under Titus and Trajan; 
restored by Septimus beverus and Caracalla ; conse* 



348 THE PANTHEON. 

crated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of S. Maria ad 
Marti/res • deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini; 
stripped of its bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored 
by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, 
revealing Roman works and buildings. The vast 
round wails of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered 
with marble. The portico (now below, but once 
above, the square) lias 16 huge monolithic columns of 
Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals 
of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa 
once stood here. The circular interior is very impres- 
sive ; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the 
centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled 
dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was 
ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze 
roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655 ; and 
all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for 
the Citadel and the canopy in St. Peter's. The 7 
niches in which statues of the gods stood are now 
occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his 
betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest 
Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and 
Perino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King 
Victor Emmanuel of Italy. 

The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan- 
theon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva, 
and contains tombs of Bembo, Pra Ans:elico, Urban 
VII., Paul IV., Leo X., and Clement VII ; Michael 
Angelo's Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja- 
cent Government building was headquarters of Do- 
minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement 
about the earth's motion. Great librarv here, 120,000 
vols, and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignmw (1626), 
and Collegia Romano, in which is famous Kircheriax? 
Museum of arenffioiogy (9-3 daily ; 1 1.). 



ROME. 349 

S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius II. 
and III., and Domenichino's celebrated Evangelists. 
Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni, designed by Raphael; 
Palazzo Massimi alle Colomw (1536), with statue of 
Discus-thrower ; great Palazzo Braschi ; Pasquino 
statue ; rains of Pornpeifs Theatre ; Chiesa Nuova 
(1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great 
library ; Palazzo della Cancelleria, very elegant, de- 
signed by Bramante ; busy Piazza di Campo dei Fiori ; 
vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10-2), built by Sangallo 
and Michael Angelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the 
French Government, and splendidly frescoed "by Anni- 
bale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Pa- 
lazzo Spada alia Regola (1540), with great collections of 
antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat., 
*t)-3) ; and many other famous chs. and palaces. 

The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foua. 
;ains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Omani, Braschi, 
and Pamfili Palaces ; S. Maria delV Anima (1514), Geiv 
man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI. ; ant! 
the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace 
(1484), containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Pine 
cloister (1501) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483; re- 
stored in I860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's 
mother, and Raphael's famous Prophet Isaiah (1512). 
Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apollinare, 
see ch. (1552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario 
Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S. 
Lnigi de' Francesi (1589), on square with Patrizi, 
Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable 
paintings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, 
founded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library 
(Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesii, see many 
palaces and chs. ; the Tortoise {Tartartighe) Fountain 
£?L585); Palazzo Costaguti (1590), with Albano's and 



350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 

Guercino's frescoes ; Palazzo Mattel (1616), with many 
statues in court ; Palazzo Cenci, where Beatrice Cenci 
lived ; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the 
quarter of the Jews ; Colonnade of Octavia, built by 
Augustus in honor of his sister ; Theatre of Marcellus 
(b. c. 13), 12hugh arches only remaining ; and palaces 
of the Orsini and Savelli. 

From the Bridge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 
5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian 
(a. d. 136) and named Pons ^EJlius. 10 colossal angel- 
statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the 
end rises, vast round Castle S. Angelo (fee.l 1.), built 
by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on 
summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and 
their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress; 
which repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 
537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; 
and a prison, where Beatrice' Cenci, Benvenuto Cellini, 
Cagiiostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were 
shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers, 
inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. 
took refuge when Bourbon's troops sacked Rome), and 
grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com- 
memorating Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel 
Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which 
the olague ceased to devastate Borne (hence name of 
castle) A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. 
Near by is enormous S. Spirito Hospital, for sick, 
aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2-4), accommo- 
dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads 
by several chs. and palaces (Giraud, Ricciardi, etc.), and 
the Piazza Rmticucci, where "Raphael died 5 to the mag- 
nificent St. Peter's Square (Piazza di S. Pietro), 
1110 X 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric 
colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of 



ROME. 351 

284 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41| ft. high. On the 
roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre of 
square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by 
Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up here in 
1586. At each side is a handsome fountain (46 ft. high). 
Entrance to St. Peters in front ■ to the Vatican, to the 
r., at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by 
Constantiue (a..d. 326), on site of Nero's circus, where 
St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by rich chs., 
convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and 
popes were crowned there. In 1450-1626 the present 
ch. was built, having among its architects Brarnante, 
Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79th 
year), Eontana, and Bernini. It cost over $60,000,000 ; 
took 176 years (the reigns of 28 popes) to build; and 
covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world. 
Total length, 696 ft. ; length of transept, 450 ft. ; 
length of nave, 619 ft. ; width of nave, 88 ft. (height, 
153 ft.) ; height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter, 
141 ft. Eacade (finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. 
high, crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each 
19 ft. high. Portico, 234 X 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with 
colossal statues of Constantiue and Charlemagne, Giot- 
to's mosaic of La Navicella, and brazen central doors 
(made in 1447). Interior has 30 altars, 148 columns 
(mostly from ruins of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble 
pavement (see stones showing length of other great 
chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian 
pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter 
enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in- 
scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high 
made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from Pantheon, high 
altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by 
marble stairs, and surrounded by 112 ever-burning 
lamns), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and 



352 THE VATICAN. 

beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings 
by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo, 
Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski, 
several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden, 
etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rarf 
pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra 
by Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatic, and ; 
rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many 
chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were 
buried in St. Peter's. The Dome (open daily, 8-10), 
630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (to which, 
142 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery. 
Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand 
view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb 
into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). 
Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor- 
tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme- 
tery and hospice; and Palace of the Inquisition ''now 
barracks). 

The Vatican, the largest palace in the worla, ad- 
joins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls 
a?id rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal 
palace here in 498 ; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. 
After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert- 
ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en. 
larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante, 
Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss 
guards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splen- 
did Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named 
for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 X 45 ft. in area (best 
light at morning). Prescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, 
etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Angelo 
(1508-11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and 
Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terri- 
ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline 



KOME. 353 

Chapel (1540), with other frescos by Angelo ; Sola. 
Ducale, frescos by Brill; and Sala Regia, historical 
frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with 
Biblical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beautiful 
stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms con- 
taining the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508-20), the 
Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus,. 
Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc. The Chapel of 
Nicholas V. has spiritual frescos by Era Angelica 
(1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings 
taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed 
here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael's. 
Transfiguration and Madonna di Poligno, Domeni- 
chino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Era An- 
gelico, Titian, Guido, Murillo, etc. The Museum of 
Sculptures (closed Mon. and Thur., 2-4) contains, 
1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of 
Canova, Laocoon, luno, Minerva Medica, Mercury^ 
Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha- 
gus of Empress Helena ; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 
splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.) ; Belvedere 
Court; Sala delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col- 
umns ; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon ; Hall 
of Greek Cross ; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael 
(1515-16), representing Biblical scenes ; Gregorian 
Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms ; Egyptian 
Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 200,000 
vols, and 34,000 MSS. (many of them very precious); 
papal manufactory of mosaic, where 10,000 colors and 
shades of glass are used ; and gardens of Vatican. 

Stroll down the riverside Lungara, nearly 1 M. 
long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's 
and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate 
of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439), 
with tombs of Tasso and Mezzofanti . Adjacent mon- 



354 TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL. 

astery Las Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. 
Farther down Longara, see tine Palazzo Salviati (now 
civic archives) ; Botanical Gardens ; very beautifiu 
Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael's famous fres- 
cos of Psyche and Galatea ; and Palazzo Corsini 
(open daily 10-4, adm. 1 fr.), with 9 halls of paint- 
ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beauty. 
Enter, by Porta Settimiana, into Trastevere (from 
Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be- 
direct descendants of the ancient Romans. See 12th- 
century basilica of S. Crisogono, near which mosaic- 
paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company cf old 
Roman (3d-century) fire department ; S. Maria Traste- 
vere, built by Calixtus I. (a.d. 217), with 22 antique 
columns, mosaics, etc. ; St. Cecilia (a.d. 222), with 
mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col- 
umns, and tomb of St. Cecilia, whose house stood on 
this site. 

On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command- 
ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S. 
Pietro in Montorio (1500), on site of St. Peter's 
martyrdom, with many ancient paintings ; Tempietto 
(1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric 
columns ; Acqua Faola, a magnificent old fountain, 
sutlet of Trajan's aqueduct ; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine 
views near) ; and Villa Doria Pamjili, a very lovely 
park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill 
should not be omitted. 

.Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the Tiber, is 
the Island of S. Bartolommeo (ancient bridges 
from both shores), with Ch. of S. Bartolommeo (built 
a.d. 1000), with 14 ancient columns, on site of a 
heathen temple (iEsculapius was worshipped here). 
The island also has ? large monastery, and % fountain- 
adorned square.' '' v 



ROME. 355 

The Capitol is readied by asr 'a alt stairs from Piazza 
Ara Codi, with Egyptian lions at base, and marble 
Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the 
top. See, also, the Trophies oA Marius ; antique statues 
of Constautine and Co'i^tan?. j and male and female 
wolves, caged. The Piazza del Campidoglio, planned 
by Michael Angelo a^d Milt oy Paul III. (1536), has 
in l ts centre the fa mo as and unrivalled antique bronze 
equestrian statue of M^rcs Aurelius, anciently sup- 
posed to represent Coiutaulme, and placed before the 
Late ran from 1187 to 15J8. The palaces on three 
sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal- 
ace oi f tile Coi»sery?..tors (r. side ; open 10-3) con- 
tains halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp- 
tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from 
Punic and Oimbriau wars, and a gallery of 200-300 
paintings. In the Capitoline Museum (I. side ; open 
10-3) see Marforio, the colossal river-goa, and sarco- 
phagi ; hails of bronzes and urns ; ancient marble plan 
of Rome; exquisitely fine mosaic of Doves of Pliny; 
82 antique busts of emperors ; antique statues of the 
philosophers and gods ; and vast number of famous 
classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, 
Antinous, rosso-antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, and 
Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace 
of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, 
and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the town- 
hall. The campanile (1572) commands a fine view, 
and contains great bell. ' Just S. E. is the Tarpeian. 
Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Eorum. 
High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple 
of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of 8. Maria in Ara Cceli, 
with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an. 
tique columns of assorted si^.es, many paintings, chapel 
of the Bambino, tomb of St. Helena, etc- Adjacent is 



356 TRAJAN'S COLUMN. 

splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two 
courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks 
chant in Ara Cceli (1764), Gibbon conceived the 
idea of his famous history. 

The Mamertine Prison , between Ara Cceli and 
Forum (fee, ^1.), was built by the early kings of 
Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, 
Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies ; and here St. 
Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he 
was chained). 

Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen- 
tury Ch. of S. Teodoro ; temple of Janus Quadrifrons, 
built in Constantine's time ; 4th-century basilica of S. 
Giorgio in Velabro, with antique columns ; Arcus Ar- 
gentarius, built by merchants of adjacent Forum 
Boarium (eattle-market) to Septimius Severus; mouth 
oi great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. 
of S. Maria in Cosmedin, on site and wilh columns of 
King Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome 
8th-century campanile; round temple (of Yesta, or 
Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 20) Corinthian 
columns; pretty little Ionie temple, now Cli. of S. 
Maria Fr/iziaca; House of Rienzi (10th century) ; and 
Fonte Rotto (Pons JEmilius), with suspension-bridge 
filling place of arches swept away in 1598, leading 
to Trastevere. 

Trajan's Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base 
and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral 
bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,50G 
human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war. Tra- 
jan was buried beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close 
by, see remains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built a.d. 111- 
114, by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once 
the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome 
di Maria (1683) and Loreto 507). Near by are frag- 



HOME. 357 

merits of Forum of Augustus, of which a massive wall, 
450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars Ultor 
remain. The Academy of St . Luke (open 9-3) contains 
statuary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine 
old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc. 
This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing 
fragment of Nervas Forum. 

The Palace of the Csesars consists of enormous 
ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, 
where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline, Cicero, Au- 
gustus, Tiberins, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. 
Fifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards, 
with convents, but the emperors of Russia and France 
began excavations, which Italy has continued (open 
daily, adm. 1 fr. ; Sun. free). Enter from Forum, 
and see Museum, with articles found lie re ; foundations 
of Caligula's palace ; parts of Tiberius's palace ; hand- 
some private house of Livia, with mural paintings ; Fla- 
vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple 
of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock; 
school-house ; and other very interesting ruins. (Get 
local guide.) 

The Forum Romanum was a marshy space be- 
tween the Capitol and Palatine, the battle-ground of 
Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state, 
embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the 
scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils 
which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some 
of the temples became chs. and others were torn down 
for building materials ; and the troops who came to the 
aid of Hildebrand, in the 11th century, completed the 
destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccim 
(cow-pasture), fortresses and houses arose. In 1536, 
Paul III. began to clear the ground, but little was done 
uatil 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been cat> 



358 I & fttlM ROMANUM. 

ried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres- 
ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B.C. 87), 
vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de- 
crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace 
of the Senator. See its ponderous arcades and gallery, 
and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius 
Severus is covered with sculptures of the victories of 
Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the 
Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a 
medieval castle ; was excavated in 1803. Back of it are 
remains of Temple of Concord (b.c 366, restored by 
Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero 
impeached Catiline. The tall white columns near by 
pertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter 
Tonans), built by Domitian and restored by Septimius 
and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola Xantha,the 
home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the 
Twelve Gods (built a.d. 367, by an anti-Christian pre- 
fect). 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's 
Temple, pertained to Temple of Saturn. Near by 
were the orators' tribunes (rostra), often used by 
Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra have beau- 
tiful reliefs. Remains of the tomb of Romulus with 
early Latin inscriptions were unearthed in 1899. The 
Column of Phocas was erected in 608, in honor of a 
Greek emperor. Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 
149 ft., built by Caesar, with parts of its many pillars 
remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on 
site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux (built 
B.c. 484 ; rebuilt a.d. 6). On E. are foundations of Tem- 
ple of Cmsar, where Mark Antony delivered his 
funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (a.d. 141), 
with 10 marble columns, encloses the eh. of S. Lor- 
enzo in Miranda. An ancient burial vault was dis- 
covered here in 1902. Numerous vaulted passages 
beneath tho pavement of the Forum were discov- 
ered during the excavations in 1901. Seventh 



ROME. 359 

century ch. of S. Adriano is on site of Curia Hostilia. 
The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap- 
itol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of 
Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with 
porphyry columns, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, 
and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Const aniine, origi- 
nally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches 
remaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. of S. 
Francesca Romana (interesting tombs and relics) are 
ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, de- 
signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as 
emperor (a.d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of 
Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, com- 
memorates the victories over the Jews, a.d. 70. It was 
a medieval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas- 
reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast 
building named, from colossal statue of Nero, the Colos- 
seum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Ves- 
pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the 
work (a.d. 80) ; 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain 
at its inauguration ; the scene of countless fights of 
gladiators and wild beasts ; and of magnificent celebra- 
tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (a.d. 
24S) ; afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi, 
etc. ; in 14th and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma- 
sonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Mar- 
co, and other vast palaces ; about 1750 redeemed, and 
consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, \ 
M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft. 
in area, which could be Hooded for naval combats : 
50,000 spectators could be accommodated. Duly \ of 
the Colosseum now stands Visit it by moonlight also, 
The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beau* 
tiful hi Rome, commemorates the victory over Max. 
entius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the 



360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO ROTONDO. 

Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were 
taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius VII. 
unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of 
sumptuous Baths of Titus (^ fr.), on the Esquiline,, 
on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mu- 
ral paintings here, which suggested Raphael's frescos m 
Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome,, 
is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up- 
per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo- 
saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392,. 
and damaged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has- 
been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns, 
and 5th-century frescos (very interesting). Still far- 
ther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope) 
house, discovered in 1867. (See Hachettes guide- 
book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS. 
Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Diocletian, 
- — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's Normans, and 
restored in 1111 ; S. Stefano Rotondo, the largest 
circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470, 
with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar 
tyrdoms; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with man} 
columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa. 
ics ; 5th-century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist 
monastery and garden ; S. Gregorio (575), 16 antique 
columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a bit of Servian 
Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels. 

The broad Piazza of S. Giovanni in Laterano has a 
red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.), 
erected at Thebes, B.C. 1560 ; brought to Rome by 
Constantine, a.d. 357; and set up here in 1587. On 
one side, Women's Hospital; opposite which see Scala 
Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empres? 
Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered 
Pilate's palace, at Jerusalem Tjhey are ascended on 



ROME. 361 

the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278). 
Here, alongside wall of Rome, and overlooking Cam- 
pagna and rats., stands venerable basilica of S. Giovanni 
in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbis 
et orbis ecclesiarum mater et caput. This is the Pope's 
ch. as Bishop of Rome ; at St. Peter's he is sovereign 
Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils were 
held here, between 1123 and 1512. Constantine built 
first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family. 
Present ch. built 1360-1734. Pacacle with colossal 
statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte- 
rior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement, 
jnassive pillars with 24 statues of Prophets and Apos- 
tles, bronze statue of Martin V., Altar of the Sacrament 
(with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old 
mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag- 
nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones), 
Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel- 
lo's wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini's 
Pietk, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy 
containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 
13th-century monastery court adjacent ; also octagonal 
Baptistery, in which it is said that Constantine was 
baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze 
doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories 
(built in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace 
the popes iwelt for a thousand years (to 1377). Pres- 
ent palace, ouilt in 1586; and in 1843 converted into 
vast and interesting museum (open 9-4) of antique 
sculptures, Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (rrom 
catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with 
remarkable Latin mosaics. 

Sc Croce in G-erusalemme, among lonely lields 
net wees. Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-ceii- 
tury basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth 



362 BATHS OF CAEACALLA. 

brought from Jerusalem, with mosaics, frescos, tombs 
of saints, and the Inscription on the Cross Cistercian 
monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins 
of Castrensian Amphitheatre, etc. To N., ruins of 3 d- 
century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich . 
in statues ; and near rly., S. Bibiana (470), with an- 
tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo, 
on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante, 
Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Schnorr, etc. Villa 
Wolkonsky near by. 

The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Oestrus, at Porta 
S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with 
chamber 19 X 13 ft., where the tribune Cains Cestius 
was buried (b.c. 30). Close by are the Protestant 
Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of 
the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely 
Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely of 
broken pottery, crowned by a, cross (grand view hence), 
and cut into by wine-sellers' grottos. To the N., see 
ancient Latin Emporium and quays of Marmorata ; also 
3 chs. on Aventine : S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica 
form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian 
marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon- 
astery (beautiful cloisters) ; S. Alessio, very ancient, 
restored in 1217, with Hieronymite monastery adjoin- 
ing ; and S. Maria Aventina, with tombs of Xnights of 
Malta, whose priory is close by. 

The Baths of Caracalla' (fee, 1 1.), nearly 1 M. 
from Arch of Constantine (by S. Balbina, a very ancient 
ch., with open roof), still show remains of their an- 
cient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area 
1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. 
Caracalla was the founder (a.d. 212). Many famous 
stetiaes were discovered here. Sole" did view from roof. 
Near by, see ch. of SS. Nereo ed AcMlleo, built by 



THE APPIAN WAY. 363 

Leo III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica 
style ; S. Sisto, and convent of S. Domenico ; very 
ancient S. Cesareo ; and, near the closed Porta Latina, 
old chs. of S. Gionanni, and a Latin tomb. Beyond 
Tomb of the Scipios (^ fr.) and Columbaria, the street 
passes the mutilated Arch of Drusus (b.c. 8), and enters 
the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate. 

The Appian "Way (called Regitia Viarum) was 
begun B.C. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua, 
and afterwards to Brmdisi, forming main route to S. 
Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it 
was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. out, on rly. 
to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna, 
aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo 
Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Dens Rediculus, 
a handsome little building of Hadrian's era ; the Grotto 
of Fgeria ; a red-brick 2cl-century tomb, or temple, 
now the ch. of S. TJrbano (with frescos of a.d. 1011) ; 
and the tombs on the Via Latina. On Via Appia are 
Catacombs of B. Calixtus (fee, 1-21.), with tombs 
of St. Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and 
martyrs, and 7th-eentury Byzantine paintings. Cata- 
combs of Domitilla and St. Prcetextatus near by. \ M. 
beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which 
are extensive catacombs (1 1.). Farther on see remains 
of Circus of Maxentius, built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, 
with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands 
the famous Tomb of Cacilia Metella, round, 65 ft. in 
diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished 
castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by 
ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement 
is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far 
prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6 
M. out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb ; and it is 8 M. 
thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone is Tomb of 



364 THE CAMPAGNA. 

Seneca (so called), near site ot Seneca's house, and also 
near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where 
many Christians snifered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M. 
beyond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii and 
Curiatii. At 9th milestone are ponderous brick ruins of 
villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus. 

Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a 
great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between the sea 
and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ravines and low steep 
hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag- 
nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which 
makes Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist 
should see Italy in her fair summer attire ; and an 
August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by 
taking due precautions. Trolley cars now run from 
Rome to Frascati, Albano, and Genzano. 

The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu- 
ori le Mura, f M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo, on tomb 
of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine ; rebuilt 
in 578 ; remodelled in 1216 ; and restored in 1864-70. 
See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square ; fapade 
with frescos of founders ; 10th-century mosaic pave- 
ment ; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding 
open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin- 
thian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble columns 
in presbytery ; silver shrine with remains of St. Law- 
rence ; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great 
cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The 
basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the 
Patrizi and Torionia villas, \\ M. outside Porta Pia, 
was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and 
restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond court, 45 marble 
steps lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 
16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por- 
phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes. 



ROME. 365 

Adjacent is S. Cosfanza, built by Constantine as 
tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting 
on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of 
Constantia, and 4th century mosaics. 

S. Paolo fuori le Mufa, 1£ M. from Porta S. 
Paolo (omnibus every half hour from Palazzo 
Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on 
site of a deeply venerated church built by Constan- 
tine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently en- 
riched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but 
burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated in 1854, 
of valuable materials and imposing prooortions, is 
390 X 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Won- 
derfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 
enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and 
capitals are of marble ; long lines of mosaic portraits 
of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See 
alabaster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt ; 
malachite altars, given by the Czar; 5th century 
mosaics; splendid altar-canopy (1285); and rich 
chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secularized) 
Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange- 
grove. 2 M. hence is S. Sebastiano (p. 363); and 
out on Via Ardeatina (li-2 M.) are abbey and three 
chs. (393-1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was 
beheaded. 

The handsome Ponte Molle, 1^ M. (dull road) 
from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of 
Milvian Bridge, built B.C. 109, where Maxentius was 
slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a.d. 312). 
2 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral- 
spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vig- 
nola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle 
are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Nasones, the 
Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin. 

Monte Mario, \\ M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold 
hill (road to top), 476ft. high, commanding superb 



366 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBANO. 

view of Rome, the Campagna, the mfs., and the sea. 
There are several villas here, among which see Villa 
Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama, de- 
signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement TIL, 
the Farnese family, and the King of Naples. See 
loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano. 

The Via Nomentana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., 
from which it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge. 
Itt M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer ; and the 
road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867). 

The Via Prtenestina leads from Porta Maggiore to 
(2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of 
artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once 
pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages 
used for a cli. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag- 
giore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum 
of the Empress Helena (now a ch.). 

The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta 
Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty 
remains of temple and hall of ancient agricultural 
brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales, founded by the 
foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of 
Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S. 
Generosa ; also (near Magliana stat.), chateau of La 
Magliana, once frescoed by Raphael. 

The Via Salara leads from the Salariau Gate to 
(2^M.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de- 
stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up 
in 1867. On far- viewing height close by stood Antem- 
nse, a town destroyed by Romulus ; and 4 M. beyond, 
near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface VIII. in 1300), 
are the scanty ruins of Fidenae. 

Albano {Hotel de la Poste ; Ristorante Salus- 
tri) is 18 miles from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 3 1. 90 c, 
3 1. 10 c, 1 1. 90 c), by rly. across Campagna, crossing 



ITALY. 367 

lines of aqueducts and Via Latina. Climb of f lir # 
(2^ M.) from stat. to Albano (omnibus, J.I.); Omni- 
buses ran twice daily from Rome to Albano (2^ hrs. ; 
2^ 1.). You can also drive hither over Appian Way. 
At Albano were Pompey's Villa, Domitian's great 
Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, 
and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has many 
Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to 
visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and 
its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The 
town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the 
Villa Batberini is the large papal palace of Castel 
Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful 
view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on 
upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an 
extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love- 
liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (b.c. 397) cut a 
tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly 
drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Long a was 
near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. 
long and 192 ft. high (built 1846-63), crosses the glen 
from Albano to ancient Ariccia (Martorelli), a town 
and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead 
through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village 
near reputed camp of Hannibal. The Via Triumphalis 
ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high ; very 
broad view), where are remains of great Temple of 
Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League 
(Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This 
region is described by Virgil in last books of JBneid, 
where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin and 
Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano 
(Torti), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks 
the crystalline Lake of N end, 2| M. around, and 300 ft. 
deep, in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake. 



868 FRASCATI. — TIYOLI. 

•which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple 
of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a 
splendid vessel afloat. 

Frascati {Frascati; Pannelli), 15 M. by ry. from 
Rome (fares, 2 1. 70 c, 2 1. 15 a, 11. 30 c), is on a 
foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a very healthy 
climate. It has many fine old 16th century villas, 
among which see Aldobrandini, with fine fountains 
and oak groves ; Falconieri (1550), with many 
pictures and pretty gardens ; Rujfinella, now owned 
by Prince Lancelotti ; Mondragone, now a Jesuits' 
school ; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. 
A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded 
by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato, 
and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out 
valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed by a 
papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman amphi- 
theatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, reser- 
voir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218 
ft. high), with magnificent view. 3 M. distant, 
by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek 
Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous 
frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead 
in 1-J hrs. to Rocca.di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4£ M. 
distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban 
Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the 
Colonnas. Good pictures in the three chs. Three 
M. hence is rly. stat., 35 min. (2 1., H l-> 1 1.) 
from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo 
and Alban o. 

Tivoli (Plebiscito; Regina; Sibilla) is 25 M. from 
Home by ry. (ret., 4 1. 55 c, 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 5c.) or car- 
riage (1-horse, 151. ' 2-horse, 201.), passing near Grotto 
of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 
centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, 
B.C. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius 
and Catullus ; and here Zenobia passed her captivity. 



ITALY. 369 

Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles 
had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000 
inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian's Villa (get permit at 
Palazzo Brasehi, Rome), once the finest in the world, 
with many imposing buildings, covering several square 
M. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the 
most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular 
Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated 
to Hercules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple 
adjacent (now ch. of S, Giorgio) command a fine view 
of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Neptune and 
Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 380 ft. high; the 
smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of 
scenery here, and Roman ruins ; also, Villa Brasehi, 
overlooking Campagna, and Villa d' PJste (1549), with 
very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many 
charming excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte 
Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by 
bridle path. It is ll£ M. from Tivoli to Valley of 
Bicenza. site of Horace's Sabinum farm. 23 M. 
(5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco {La Pernice), a 
media? vai castle-crowned town, built on remains of 
Nero's villa, and with very famous monastries of S. 
Scolastica and S. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters 
on site where St. Benedict lived. 

Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12 
from Frascati, 4£ from Vaimontone stat., was the 
ancient Proeneste; conquered by Camillus (b.c. 380); 
headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman summer- 
resort (see Horace); scene of terrible wars between 
Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630 
the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean walls, 
immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini 
Palace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view. over 
Campagna. 

Bracciano (Piva), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus 
alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 4 1.), has a wonderful old 



370 OSTIA. — NAPLES. 

Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott 
greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and 
is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from 
tower. Adjacent lake Is 20 miles around, and 
abounds in eels. 

Ostia, 14 M. from Rome, near mouth of Tiber, 
once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100. 
The Saracens were terribly defeated here about a.d. 
850. See S. Aurea Episcopal Palace, and tombs, 
temples and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport 
of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Cast el 
Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1^ M. 
from sea, in great pine-forest. 

There are many other deeply interesting excursions 
near Rome. See Hare's Days Near Rome, Baede- 
ker's Central Italy, Murray, Hachette or Cook. 

Naples, Bala, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri. 

Express trains, Rome to Naples, 5-£- hrs. (fares, 
34^1., 23^-1.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). 
Some travellers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by 
rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely 
view entering the Bay of Naples. 

Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence and Rome, in 
53 hrs. (fares, 246^ fr., 203 fr. 10 c). 

Marseilles to Naples oy sea, 181 fr., 128 fr. Naples 
is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean 
ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria, 
Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn, 
and Marseilles. 

Hotels: Bertolini's; Parker's; Bristol; Excelsior; 
3Iacpherso?i , s ; Eden ; Metropole ; du Vesuve ; de 
Londres ; Grand ; des Etrangers ; Splendid ; Santa 
Lucia; Grande Bretagne; Riviera; Victoria; Savoy. 

Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving at 
Naples, by excise officers, but formalities are slight. 



NAPLES. 371 

Conveyances. — Hotel omnibus, 1^1. ; public omni- 
bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, 1 1. 
40 c. ; 1-horse cab, 70 c. Smallboats from steamship 
to shore, 1 1. each person, l£ with usual baggage. Pay 
no attention to extortionate demands, with which 
boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars and 
people who offer their services. 

A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M. ; 5-8 hrs.) from Naples 
across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggia, on the Adri- 
atic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and 
Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy. By this 
route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna. 

The rly. from Rome to Naples passes Velletri, an 
ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old 
Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4i M. from Anagni, a famous 
old papal town; Ferentino stat.,3 M. from Ferentino, 
a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, cathedral 
and huge polygonal walls; Frosinone stat.,2^- M. from 
beautifully situated hill-town oi Frosinone, and 9-10 
M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls; 
Ceprano stat., 21 M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for 
Falls of the Litis and Cicero's Villa; Aquino, birth- 
place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and 
Thomas Aquinas ; Cassino (or S. Germano), a busy 
town, with Roman amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and 
tombs (a climb of 1% hr. leads to the world-renowned 
and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte 
Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ; 
Teano, with great castle and Roman remains ; Capua, 
a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania 
Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, 
ancient chs. ; and S. Maria, on site of ancient Capua, 
with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, - and other 
Roman ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and 
populous plain of the Terra di Lavoro, to Naples. 

Naples is a city of 500,000 inhab., with little of 
architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a 



372 NAPLES. — CHIAJA. 

superb situation, mild climate, and beautiful environs, 
It is built on the amphitheatrical slopes of kills, shelter- 
ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected by the 
abrupt ridge of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view 
includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around 
the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and 
crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old 
name of Via Toledo, runs N. I& M. from Palazzo 
Reale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting 

National Museum (open daily, 9-3, 11., children, 
fl.; no fees allowed ; free, Sunday, 10-1), is in old 
Spanish cavalry. barracks (1586), occupied by Univexv 
sity, 1615-1780. There is a good handbook. See 
1,600 ancient mural paintings, from Pompeii, etc. ; 
epigraphic collection ; long range of rooms with Egyp. 
tian and Etruscan antiquities ; finest existing collection 
of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, 
Mercury, Sleeping Faun, and bust of Seneca ; 18,000 
small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc. ; immense collec- 
tions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumsean antiquities, 
numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues, 
including Farnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo), 
Earnese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean, 
Flora, Nile, Farnese Juno, JEschines, Balbus ; famous 
mosaics of Battle of Issus and Triumph of Bacchus ; 
great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculaneum ; 
7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases; and gems, 
jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic- 
ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, 
Bolognese, Roman, Venetian, German, and Flemish, 
including several by Raphael, Titian, and Correggio. 
The Library (open 9-3) has 200,000 vols., 4,000 
MSS., and many valuable autographs. 

The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a 
narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posilippo ridges 



NAPLES. 373 

and the harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening) 
along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the 
black and gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often, 
besieged, and now a prison. Thence Strada S. Lucia 
leads to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. 
Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one may 
pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs 
for liberty, and the Miranda Palace, to the centre of 
the city. 

The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to all 
the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1600, by 
order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-41. It 
is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and 
many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harbor 
from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del 
Plebiscite, is S. Francesco di Paola, a copy of Roman 
Pantheon, with 30 marble Corinthian columns support- 
ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and 
many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince 
of Salerno ( official residence ) , Foresteria Palace, and 
Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles 
III. and Ferdinaid I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is 
Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in the 
world. See public scribes in arcades ; and statues of 
Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- 
tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and 
enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of 
the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish 
viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory, 
and ch. of S. Sebastiano, with very famous picture. 
Close by, see Arsenal (1577) ; Porto Militare, with. 
Italian iron-clads ; busy Porto Grande — the shipping 
harbor ; and Molo, a long breakwater, with battery and 
light-house (ascend this, for view) Across the square 
before Castle stands handsome Municipal Palace. 



374 ^APLFS. — UNIVERSITY. 

S. Giacom\> degli Spagnuoli (1540) has splendid 
mausoleum of Spanish Yiceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo, 
Near by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duke 
of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata r ch. (1352), within- 
teresting Giottesque frescos ; and Palazzo Fondi, with 
picture-gallery. 

The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411), 
on Via di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt 
in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic^ 
tuxes. In the rear, see S. Maria la Nuova (1268 ; 
restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs ; and 
Post-Offlce, in beautiful old Palazzo Oravina (1500). 
Farther along Via di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now 
a bank), with richly frescoed hall ; and Palazzo Angri 
(1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. Strada S. Trinita 
leads to r. towards Gesit Nuova ch. (1584), with many 
frescos (opposite is refectory of S. Chiara, with Giot- 
tesque frescos) ; S. Chiara (1310), with burial-chapel of 
Bourbons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise 
(1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto; 
lofty and imposing B. Domenico (1285), on a square 
between palaces, and containing 27 princely chapels, 
rich in Renaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic, 
tombs of the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many 
nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of 
Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and 
many pictures ; cell and lecture-room of Thorn a? 
Aquinas (1272) ; Chapel of S. Severo (1590), crowded 
with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures 
of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding- Sheet; 
SS. Angela e Nilo (1385) ; University (1224), in 
old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very good 
library (open 9-3) • S. Severino e Sosio, with notable 
tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja- 
cent Benedictine monastery has prioress archives of 



NAPLES. 375 

Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning a. d. 703); Pa- 
lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas- 
tello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen 
kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present 
law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), 
a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not 
far from the Gate, was built 1272-1314, on site of 
Temple of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and 
tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2 
popes, 2 kings of hungary, etc. Adjacent is S. 
RestUuta, a basilica with Corinthian columns, and 
baptistery attributed to Constantine (a.d. 333); also, 
magnificent Chapel of St. Januarius (1608), rich in 
gold and silver, precious stones, and other adorn- 
ments, and enshrining the blood of the saint. 1% M. 
beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the 
New, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102 
chapels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the 
burial of the poor; and the Protestant, with many 
English and American graves. 

Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see SS. 
Annunziata (1757); Porta Nolana ; the huge Cas- 
tello del Carmine (1484), now a barrack and prison; 
S. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble 
statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato 
(where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with three 
fountains; Carmine Gate, with two massive towers; 
and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow 
and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Nea- 
politans, macaroni-pedlers, story tellers, fishermen, 
etc. S. Giovanni a Carionara (1344), N. of Cathe- 
dral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus 
(1414). Farther N. are Botanical Gardens and vast 
Poor-House. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, 
see S. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S. 
Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many 
ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with 



373 CASTEL SANT' ELMO. 

many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio 
have been here) ; the Gothic S. Pietro a Maiella (1316), 
with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where 
Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director. 

Opposite Museum stands Ginnado Vittorio Emanuele 
(1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. 
Prom 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro, enter the Cata~ 
combs (fee, 11.), excavated by ancient Christians, 
and much broader and higher than those at Rome. 
Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out 
is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 11.), built for the 
Bourbon kings (1738-1839), with long lines of state- 
rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, 
and lovely views, f M. distant is the Observatory, on 
far- vie wing crest of Capodimonte. 

Castel^Sant' Elmo (1343), 876 ft. above the bay, 
is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast 
and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook- 
ing the. city and sea. Close by is old Carthusian 
monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu- 
seum; open 9-5 ; 11.), built in 1325. See museum of 
majolica, ivories, etc. ; very beautiful cloisters, sur- 
rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with 
statues; and magnificent ch., lined with choice marbles 
and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings. 
Exquisite views from this monastery. 

Excursions from Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja 
and Villa Nazionale, with their statues, temples, and 
aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, 
under Posilippo, with beautiful sea- views, and by nu- 
merous villas, and the insulated 17th-century Palace 
of Donna Anna (now in ruins) . Near the Chiaja stands 
ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of the 
poet Sannazaro The road W. from the Chiaja leads 
through Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel m 



ITALY. 377 

the rock, £ M. long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut 
through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. Over 
its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil Q 1.), a Roman 
tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King 
Robert visited this spot, and planted laurel. Near by 
was Virgil's villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and 
Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of 
Sejanus (11.), a tunnel cut through the rocky ridge 
by Nerva (b.c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a.d. 400). 
It is f M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo 
tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- 
lus, Pollio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of 
Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus 
(b.c. 44), after he had killed Csesar; and afterwards of 
Queen Johanna II. 's villa (15th century). The Lake 
of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is f M. from 
fuorigrotta, (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.); 
and near by are singular ancient baths of sulphurous 
gas ; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, 
whose effects 'are tried on unhappy dogs, It is 6 M. 
from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of 
Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port 
of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla 
died ; Hadrian was buried ; St. Paul sojourned 7 days ; 
and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of 
Berapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars 
rising from sea), and the Nymphs ; many Roman tombs; 
Piscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery 
(1580) ; Roman quay, now called Bridge of Caligula ; 
Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi ; and Amphitheatre 
(^ 1.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial 
combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Jauuariu? 
was exposed to the lions. Near by, see Solfatara, a 
low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and 
many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava 



378 bAIA. — CUM.E. 

in 1198) ; and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vine* 
yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lah 
Lncrimcs, whence the Romans obtained their best oys 
ters, and the Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver- 
tins, a picturesque crater-pond, 1-| M. around, amid 
chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance 
to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor 
by cutting a canal to Ihe bay. The fabled entrance to 
Hades is shown in adjacent Grotto of the Sibyl (1 1.), 
a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotto, delta Pace, \ M. 
long, leads from W. shore towards Cumse/ catting 
through intervening ridge. 

The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing 
hot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked. 

Baia (Regina) was the most magnificent of summer- 
resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and 
was praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; 
and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house 
L>n the site. Here are massive ruins w of temples of 
Venus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, 
Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and 
other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi- 
seno, near site of great Roman naval station of 
Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from 
Baia is Lake o/Fusaro, \\ M. N. of which are ruins of 
great Cumse, which was founded by Greeks (b.c. 1050), 
and had profound influence in Italy, founding Naples, 
giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the 
Tarquius, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- 
quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goth? 
restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town ; and 
6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den 
of pirates. Near ky, see Acropolis, with fortifications 
and noble views; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments 
of old temples ; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice, 
64 ft, high. 



Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumge, etc., may be seen in 1 day 
by carriage (25 1. ; 1-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). Take 
guide from Naples (5 1.), to escape local annoyances. 

Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 
30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and 
with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In 
a.d. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described 
by Pliny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have 
occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi- 
lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses 
were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd 
which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept 
away and destroyed by the outbursting lava. The cable 
road* now obviates much of the labor formerly neces- 
sary in ascent. Beautiful view from Observatory; and 
from summit you can see a vast area of sea and land. 
Excursion from Naples to summit and return , 21 i. 
exclusive of fees of official guid*. at summit. 

Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a 
town of Roman villas, was buried by an eruption of 
Vesuvius, a.d. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a 
well was hems' dug. Since then, excavations have 
shown that 10-90 it. beneath the present town of Resina 
is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues, 
mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu- 
seums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more 
deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering. 
Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be 
seen (2 1. for guide and torch). The residences and 
shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the 
theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be well 
seen. 

Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede) is nearly 1 hr. from 
Naples (5 trains daily ; fares, 21. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c. y 
11. 10 c), by fly. passing through Portici (la,0CMI 



380 POMPEII. 

jihab.) ; Resina, near La Favorita, royal chateau, and 
at foot of Vesuvius ; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4 
streams of lava within 300 years. Beautiful views of 
buy and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going 
there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (21.; 
guide furnished ; no gratuity ; stay as long as you like). 
Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (b.c. 400-500), 
which was subjugated by Rome, and became a favorite 
resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.). 
It was overthrown by earthquake, a.d. 63 ; rebuilt 
immediately ; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes 
from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives. 
Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going 
on, The walls are 1^ M. around, with 8 gates. The 
streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted 
lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor- 
ners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses 
remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, 
taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting. 
Note Temple of Venus ; Forum, where main streets 
■converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica, 
Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury, 
beautiful Chalcidicum, Tovjn Hall, Temple of Augustus. 
See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; 
Triangular Forum ; the two Theatres; barracks of the 
soldiers; House of Sculptor ; Stabim Gate; Temple of 
Isis; House of Holconius ; vast amphitheatre , which 
seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Therma, Balcony 
House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucretius, of the 
Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand Duke of Tuscany, of 
Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune; 
Public Baths; House of the Vettii; House of the Faun; 
House of Anchor, of tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it 
in Last Days of Pompeii); Fuller's Shop; Great and 
Idttle Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth, of 



CASERTA. — SORRENTO. 38 1 

Castor and Pollux, of Centaur; of Meleager, Adonis^ 
Apollo; Academy of Music ; Bake-house; Soap-shop; 
Barber s Shop ; Custom House ; Street of Tombs ; and 
Villa of Diomedes (where several bodies were found), 
beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities 
in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in 
the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (1-| hrs.) 
to cairn of stones on Vesuvius ; whence climb (1 hr. on 
foot) to summit (guide and horse, 10 1.). 

Caserta {Vittorid), about 20 M. from Naples, on 
rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752), 
834 ft. long and wide, and 134 high, with colonnaded 
courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views, 
and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en- 
riched with lapis lazuli and gold ; and theatre, with 16 
antique Corinthian columns of African marble. 

No one should leave Naples without having visited 
Sorrento, Amain, and Salerno. Rly. in 1 hr. (3 1. 10 c, 
21. 15 c, 11. 25 c), along shore of bay., to Castella- 
raare {Hotel Weiss; Quisisand), a famous Neapolitan 
summer-resort and Italian naval station (33,000 inhab.), 
near overwhelmed ruins of Stabise, and with 13th-cen- 
tury castle, royal chateau of Quisisana (on the hill), 
and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view 
(guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul- 
phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road 
(7i M. ; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads 
hence, by Vico and Meta, and a delicious paradise of 
orange and olive groves, to Sorrento (Gran Bretagna; 
Anqleterre ; Tasso, where Tasso was born, 1544; 
Sirena; Vittoria; Tramontano) , an ancient seaport 
on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and 
delightfully cool summer-elimate (it faces N.). Quaint 
villages, ancient chs., natu:^l curiosities, villas and 
convents, glens and myrtle-groves, rocky islets and 



382 CAPRI. — ISCHIA. 

points, make this region very charming-. Steamboats 
leave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 a.m. daily, for Sorrento 
(6 1. ; return-tickets, 10 1.), Capri (8 1.; return, 12 1.); 
and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 5 1., in 
two hours (bad trip in rough weather). 

Capri (Tioerio and Quisisana, both kept by 
English people ; Pagano; Grotte Bleue), the "Island, 
of Goats," is 4^- M. long, with almost unbroken 
lines of cliffs, and far- vie wing mts. 2,000 ft. high. 
There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral 
fishers. Augustus and Tiberius built many villas 
and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly 
fortified by the English; but Murat captured it 
five years later. On E„ see ruins of Villa of 
Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto 
di Tioerio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his 
victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. 
See Natural Arch; Grotto of Ifitliras; lofty village 
of Anacajjri, with Barbarossa's castle ; and 31o?ite 
Solaro, with superb view. The most celebrated of 
the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area, 
and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure 
sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and 
narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff 
(boat, 2 1. for 2 persons ; 1 1. for each additional). 
The Wliite, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are 
also visited by boat. 

Ischia is a fertile island 15. M. around, with 
25,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, 
with delightful summer climate, castle of Alfonso I. 
of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (damaged 
in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from 
top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo. Ischia has 
been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Nea- 
politans, and French; and was the home of Vit- 
toria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from 
Naples in two hrs. (fares, 5 l. ? 3£ 1.). Procida 



SALERNO. — P^ESTUM. — AMALFI. 383 

is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 
14,000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and 
Ischia, by Greeks. 

Salerno (Hotel cVAngleterre) is a picturesque 
old provincial capital (22,000 inhab.), 33^ M. from 
Naples (rly. fares, 6 1. 15 c, 44-1., 2 1. 45c), fronting 
on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1-J M. long,, 
irregular medieval streets, ancient Lombard Castle, 
and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with 
many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, 
and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, 
Margaret of Anjou, etc. The University was very 
celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow's Golden 
Legend). 

Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by railway over 
dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.C. 600, and 
destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest 
Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including 
Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted 
Doric columns; Temple of Ceres, 105 by 45 ft., 
with 84 fluted columns; and Basilica, 177 by 80 ft., 
with 60 columns; well-preserved travertine town- 
walls 3 M. around; amphitheatre, Roman temple, 
Street of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1., 
Sun. free. 

Amalfii (Luna), a lovely village (7,000 inhab.), 

where a great mt. -gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno, 

was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling 

Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of Naples 

'in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 11th-century 

Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics 

1 and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. 

'A landslide in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient 

^apucin monastery and two hotels. 1^ hour's 

climb leads to Ravello (once 30,000 inhab., now 

1,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and 

■.Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the 



384 SICILY. — MESSINA. 

Wise lived), both in rich Saracenic architecture, and 
other notable chs. Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento, 
by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there 
from Salerno (1^-2 hrs.; 1-horse carriage, 5-6 l.) i 
over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 
villages, amid vineyards and orange and lemon groves, 
by Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers. 

Majori {Beau Site Hotel), near Amalfi, is a charm- 
ing spot. 

Sicily, 

This beautiful island may be conveniently visited 
from Naples, whence steamships run, several times 
weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15-22 hrs. ; fares, 
40 1. 60 c; 24 1. 60 c, to either port), passing Capri, 
Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid 
sea-trip by uncomfortable 26 hrs. (436 M.) rly. ride 
from Naples through Salerno; Eboli; Cosenza (Alaric's 
grave), with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo ; lofty Monteleone, 
with 10,000 inhab.; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are 
seen ; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were 
killed by earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's 
Scylla); to Reggio, once a beantiful city of 35,000 
souls, but totally destroyed, with the loss of 20,000 
of its inhabitants, in the earthquake of December 28, 
1908. 

French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in 
50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to Palermo in 33 
hrs. Steamers run round Sicily weekly, from Paler- 
mo, touching at chief ports. 

Messina, formerly the chief commercial town of 
Sicily, with 150,000 inhab., had a magnificent situa- 
tion on an amphi theatrical slope, over a secure and 
well-fortified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks, 
B.C. 732; conquered by Samos, Athens (b.c. 427), 



SICILY. - CATANIA. 385 

Carthage (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Sara- 
cens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, 
French and Italians ; often ravaged by fire, plague, 
and earthquake. These evil days had left it but few 
antiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) had 26 
antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs and sarcophagi; 
and in front was the splendid Montorsoli Fountain 
(1647-51). In the early morning of Dec. 28, 1908, 
Messina was again visited by an earthquako, the 
severest in its long history of disasters, which threw 
down or ruined nearly every building in the city, 
killing, according to the most trustworthy estimates, 
100,000 persons, or two-thirds of the entire popula- 
tion. The towns on both sides of the Strait of Mes- 
sina, estimated to number at least 60, were at the 
same time more or less completely destroyed within a 
space of twelve seconds, 165,000 persons being killed. 
Ry. hence in 3 h. by Taormina{Griardini sta.), with 
grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), 
acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava 
fields of iEtna ; and by Aci-Beale, scene of adventures 
of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea - 3 to 

Catania (Bretagne; Albergo Centrale; Sangiorgi; 
DuGlobe), handsomest and most cultured city in Sicily 
(147,000 inhab., by the seaside, at foot of iEtna, and 
rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of 
orange. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 730 ; and 
conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, 
Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards. See 
Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover- 
eigns, and of St. Agatha ; 8. Carcere, with relics ; 
cloisters and gardens, museum, library of suppressed 
Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola, than which there 
was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks 
were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Grceco- 
Bcman Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 1.) ; Roman Baths 

25 



386 MOUNT ;ETNA. — SYRACUSE. 

and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tombs ; University (1444), 
500 students ; and public gardens of Villa Bellini, 
with Italian statues. 

Mount .SBtna (10,835 ft. high) may be ascended 
hence, by carriage (2| hrs.), to Nieolosi (20-25 1. 
there and back) ; whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa 
Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1. ; mule, 10 1.) ; return 
from top to Catania, 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at 
Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach 
summit before sunrise. There have been over 80 re- 
corded eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000 
lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view includes 
all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari 
Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54 M. ; 91. 85 c, 
6 1. 90 c, 41. 95c.) to 

Syracuse {Agradina; Villa Politi; Grand),once the 
most important city in the Greek world, now a quiet 
. modern port (31,000 inhab.), with very charming envi- 
rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and 
beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. It 
was founded by Corinthians, B.C. 734 ; defeated the 
Carthaginians and Etruscans ; repulsed the besieging 
Athenian fleet and army (b.c. 414-13), with terrible 
losses ; beat off frequent attacks from Carthage ; 
entertained iEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc. ; and was 
defended by Archimedes against the Romans (b.c. 
914-12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and 
Marcian preached here. It has since been ravaged by 
Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards ; and has 
never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. 
The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- 
dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable 
font and leaning pillars ; Museum (open 9-1, 3-5 ) $ 
with fine Greek Yenus, and other antiquities ; Foun- 
tain of Arethusa, famed in Greek mythology, and still 



PALERMO. 387 

surrounded by papyrus plants ; ruins of Temple of Diana; 
Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, 
see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre ; 
Latomia, or quarries once worked by slaves ; grotto 
called JEar s of Biom/sim ; Greek Theatre (480-406 b.c.) ; 
Fountain of Cyane, amid growing papyri ; fragments 
of Temple of Zeus Olj/mpius ; etc. 

Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 hrs. 

Palermo {Hotel de France ; Trinacria; Des Palmes; 
Centrale), the capital of Sicily (315,000 inhab.), is very 
beautifully situated between Mt. Pellegriuo and Cape 
Zaffarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and 
intensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, 
strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap- 
tured by Home, and governed in succession by the 
Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and 
English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome- 
nades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The 
Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and imposing ch., 
with tombs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Fred- 
erick II. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing 
remains of St. Rosalia ; many statues and carved choir 
stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. 
La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek 
mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See 
also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S. 
Giovanni degli Fremiti, in form of letter T, with 5 
domes, and cloisters ; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits' 
ch, ; Norman S. Francesco d'Assisi ; and S. Domenico 
(1640), which can hold 12,000 persons The Museum 
(open 10-3 ; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues 
and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture- 
gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian 
masters. The Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable 
apartments added b.y King Ro*£i\ Robert Guiscard, 



388 PALERMO. — MONEEALE. 

Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is 
magnificent Cappella Palatma (1132), the finest castle- 
chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite 
columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many 
Arabian inscriptions. Superb view from Observatory. 
The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (1330) are 
covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archi- 
episcopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace ; University ; 
National Library (open 9-2) ; spacious and arcaded 
Paterno Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long 
the home of the Inquisition ; Ganzia Monastery ; rich 
Botanical Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch 
for Charles V.'s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis. 

Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Due d'Au- 
male, elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola, Capuchin 
Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em- 
balmed, and rich gardens of Villa Tasca, is a large town 
which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by 
William II. in 1170. It is 333 X 132 ft. in area, with 
superb entrance ; bronze doors (1186) ; Saracenic 
arches ; cloisters supported on 216 columns ; and over 
60,000 square ft. of magnificent mosaics, scriptural 
and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and 
commands famous views. More than 1,900 ft. above is 
venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with 
library, museum, and views. The celebrated Monte 
Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. Set ohrine and 
grotto of St. Rosalia, and immense sea-view. La 
Favorita is a splendid royal villa, beyond the so-called 
English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, 
a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of 
Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and chateaux of 
modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs. 

From Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (15£ 1., 101. 70c, 
7 1. 65c.) to 



GIRGENTL- CIVITA VECCHIA. 389 

r GSrgenti {Hotel Belvedere; Des Temples), chief 
town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab. ). On mt. 
near by are ruins of Acragas (Agrigentum), which 
Pindar called " the most beautiful city of mortals." 
It was founded by Cretans; had 200,000 inhab., 
and vast wealth; was destroyed by Carthage, and 
became a Rornan colony. Here are fairly preserved 
ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), 
Hercules (88 columns), Concord (34 columns), 
Zeus (37 huge columns), and others; and walls, 
gates, cloaca), catacombs, tombs, etc., in great 
numbers. 

Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, Honaco. 

, Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best 
'return 1ST. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave 
, Naples twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, 
( Genoa and Marseilles. 

Civita Vecchia [Trajano ; Italia) is a fortified 
port of 12,000 inhab., founded by Trajan, and des- 
troyed by Saracens (in 828). Fortress, built after 
plans by Michael Angelo. Rly. across Maremma to 
Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 50^- M., in 2 hrs. (fares, 
9 1. 20 c. , 6 1. 40 c, 4 1. 60 c. ) . Time of voyage from 
Naples, 12-14 hrs. 

A voyage of 12 hrs., by Elba, leads hence to Leg- 
horn (Hotel d' Angleterre Campari; Grand; Griap- 
jpone; Bastia; Falcone e Patria), one of the chief 
Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified, 
well-built and modern. It was founded by the Medici 
family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See English 
Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb; fine statues of three 
Tuscan Grand-Dukes; venerated sailors' ch. on Monte 
Nero; piers and quays, with busy and chattering 
crowds, and handsome squares and Corso. 

Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (2 1. 5 c, 1 1. 40 c, 1 1.). 



390 PISA. 

Pisa (Hotel Vittoria; Nettuno; Grand Hotel Min- 
erve et Ville ; Grand Hotel; Hotel Washington) 
is a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the 
mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from Florence (fares, 
81.80c, 61.20 c). It was conquered by Rome, 
B.C. 180 ; adorned with temples by Augustus and Ha- 
drian; became a rival of Tenice and Genoa in Middle 
Ages ; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles ; 
became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa ; and 
since 1408 has been subject to Florence. It is very 
hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts 
many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old 
town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls ; and has 
3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near 
which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs., 
including 13th-century S. Michel e ; University (1493), 
with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable 
library ; Alia Giornata, Vitelli and Royal Palaces ; S. 
Niccolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer- 
dinand I. in front ; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte 
a Mare. On S. shore, 12th-century S. Paolo, with 
handsome old facade ; Benedictine monastery ; Gam- 
bacorti Palace, now custom -house ; aS. Maria delta 
Spina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with 
fragment of Crown of Thorns ; rouud S. Sepolcro; and 
the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see S. Fran- 
cesco (1300), with campanile ; Botanical Garden and 
Natural-History Museum ; 8. Sis to (1089); and Piazza 
del Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand 
Palazzo de' Cavalieri, with statues, and S° Stefano 
(1565), ch. of Knights of St, Stephen, with Turkish 
trophies and notable paintings The adjacent Acad- 
emy of Fine Arts (open 9-2) was founded by Napo- 
leon I., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine 
paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo 



PISA. 391 

LanfrancH. S. Catcnna (1253) has interesting pictures, 
and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Roman 
baths and the Lucca Gate. 

In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a wonderful 
group of mediaeval buildings, nearly surrounded by 
gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311 X 106 ft. 
in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 
1063, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo, 
and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is 
in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and 
colored marbles, with remarkable facade of columns and 
arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Ciuiabue's 
mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of 
Pisan conquests), a splendidly gilded ceiling, bronze 
doors designed by John of Bologna, 12 altars designed 
by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolo Pisano, 
altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare 
pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo 
got the idea of the pendulum. 

In front is the finest Baptistery in the world. It 
is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high) ; in 
Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Gothic styles ; of 
marble; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside, 
see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by 
Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font. 

The Leaning Tower (1174-1350), or Campanile, 
Dehind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur- 
rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is 
14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, 
of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica. 

The Campo Santo ( open daily; 25c.) is an enclos- 
ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from 
Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to the burial of great 
men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 
1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145 



392 LUCCA. - CARRARA. 

ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on 
the verdant court within. The walls are decorated 
with wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos 
of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, 
some of which are attributed to Giotto and Orcagna. 
There are many splendid monuments in these cor- 
ridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Gregory XIII., 
Catalani, etc. ; and sculptures by Mino da Fiesole, 
John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupre, and Thor- 
waldsen. 

Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of 
Baths of Gombo, near which Shelley was drowned. 
To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out, 
on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Grado 
(a.d. 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in 
Italy. Rly. in 13 M. to 

Lucca (Universo ; Corona; Croce di Malta), a 
beautiful old walled city (74,000 inhab.), on a rich 
plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman 
municipium, it afterwards became Gothic, Lombard, 
Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan and Tuscan; and 
was home of Dante, and principality of Napoleon's 
sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral 
(1060-70), very rich in art; 7th-eentury Basilica of 
S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old 
pictures; chs. of S. Giovanni, S. Romano, S. 
Francesco, and S. Michele, and old palaces; and 
walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of 
Lucca {Hotel de V Europe; des Thermes; NeivYork; 
Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 12 M. N., among the 
Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphuretted 
ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health 
resort for centuries. 

Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102£ M. (fares, 18 1. 15 c, 
131. 60 c, 10 1.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa, 
9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, 
passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab. 



SPEZIA. — GENOA. 393 

(mostly sculptors and marble-workers), embowered is 
groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 
2 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are 
employed. La Spezia (Gran Bretagna; Oroce di Mal- 
ta; Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly 
fortified and well equipped (66,000 inhab.), and was 
commended by Strabo as one of the vastest and best 
ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for 
the sea-baths; and in winter, for the mild climate. 
Pleasant trip to Porto Venere {\\ hr.). The rly. goes 
on, by Sestri Le Dante and Lavagna, along shore of 
Mediterranean, with charming views, and through 
many tunnels. 

Genoa {Bristol; Modern; Eden Palace; Continen- 
tal; lsotta; Be Genes; Be la Ville: Be Bondres; 
Metropole; Be Prance; Smith; Central), called by its 
citizens La Superba, has 211,000 inhab., and is Italy's 
chief commercial town. It was founded by Ligurians j 
became Roman ; enriched itself in Crusades ; conquered 
great Levantine domains ; fought many wars with 
Venice, Pisa, and the Moslems ; was torn for centuries 
by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars ; maintained itself as 
a republic from 10th century to 19th ; was annexed to 
Prance in 1800;. and in 1815 became Sardinian. It 
has more imposing marble palaces than any other city •, 
but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It 
presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged along 
the hills like seats in an- amphitheatre, with bold 
wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend 
the city; and an outer line, 20 M. long, with towers 
and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond The 
Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses ; 
and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall, 
by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end 
near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft. 



394 GENOA. 

long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasant view of harbor. 
Near by is handsome 16th-century Exchange, with 
statue of Cavour. The Custom House contains many 
statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid 
view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of S. Maria 
di Carignano, on high hill to S. E. 

The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of 
black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, 
sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and 
the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova, see white- 
marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace) ; 
and 16th-century Jesuits' ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pic- 
tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are 8. Matteo 
(1278), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria 
family ; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statu- 
ary ; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous 
picture by Giulio Romano ; and Pallavicini and Spinola 
Palaces. The modern Via Balbi and Via Nuova are 
streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful 
courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen- 
tury Municipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and 
Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall; 
Brignole-Sale, with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee, 
1 1.) ; Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of 
the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of) 
Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform 
Capuchin ch. of SS. Annunziata (1587), with fluted red^ 
marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence 
the Via Balbi, a broad modern street of palaces, leads 
to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo ; 
University (1622), with museums, library (60,000 vols.), 
and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa ; Pa^ 
lazzo Balbi, with large picture-gallery (fee, 11.); 
Palazzo Durazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with 
richly furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures. 



SAVONA. — SAN EEMO. 39.* 

tn square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus 
(1852), with several allegorical statues and reliefs. 
Beyond is Palace of Doria Princes, presented to An- 
drea Doria, "The Father of his Country," in 1522, 
with splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and 
statues. 

Excursions from Genoa. — Villa Pallavicini (get 
permission at Durazzo Palace ; open 2-3 p.m. ; fee, 
1-21.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent 
views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat, 
7| M. ; \ hr. by rly. ; fares, 1 1. 15 c, 80 c). Campo 
Santo, \\ M. out, new and interesting. 

The famousCornicheroad leads along the Riviera 
di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128 \ M.), through 
some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. 
Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly 
every day. 

Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M. ; fares, 
211. 5 c, 141. 90 c, 101. 65 c), by slow and not very 
comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as 
the route follows the Mediterranean coast through a 
succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages. 
Take seat on r. as far as Savona ; beyond which the 
best views are on the 1. The line traverses many tun- 
nels, through rocky promontories. 

Savona {Pension Suisse ; Italia ; Roma) is an 
ancient city (40,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Genoa 
caused to be filled up, after conquering the town. 
Sixtus IV. and Julius II. were born here See Cathe- 
dral (1604) ; 8. Domenico, with triptych by Diirer » 
colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly„ 
hence to Turin. 

San Remo (Royal; West-End ; Midi; Paradis ; 
Savoy; d' 'Europe; Bellevue; de la Mediterranee; Victo- 
ria; Central; de Londres; de Paris; de Nice), town of 



896 BORDIGHERA. 

20,000 ixihab., on hill-slopes covered with vineyards 
and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pommegranate 
and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and at- 
tracts many English, American, German and Russian 
families in winter. The town is a densely populated 
group of fortress-like mediaeval houses, with pictur- 
esque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See 
very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assump- 
tion ch.; ruined Borea Palace ; and hermitage of 
jS. Romolo. 

Bordighera. {Hotel cf Angleterre; Royal; Angst; 
Windsor; da Cap Ampeglio; Park; Victoria; Hes- 
peria) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm- 
trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque streets 
and houses. It was once the capital of a republic. 
Euffini laid the scene of his Br. Antonio hereabouts. 
Climate is exceptionally soft in winter, with bracing 
quality, and is delightful in spring and fall. Many 
Americans come here. See Villa of Gamier, archi- 
tect of Paris Opera-House ; and palm-garden of 
Moreno. Vintimiglia {liaison Boree; Suisse) is the 
frontier-town, where baggage is examined and travel- 
lers change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put 
back on train. 



MENTONE. - MONACO. 397 



SOUTHERN FRANCE. 

rientone, Nice, Cannes, Marseilles. 

MENTONE (Royal and Westminster; Victoria; 
National; de Malte; Winter Palace; Venise; 
Isles Brittaniques; Balmoral; d' Orient; de Russie; 
du Louvre; des Anglais; Riviera Palace; Cap 
Marline; Beau Rivage). The old town keeps 
Jts feudal aspect, with narrow and winding streets, 
on a promontory dividing the bay. The new town is 
on a long street, parallel with the hill. See grand 
view from ruins of Castle (1402) ; St. Julian Gate ; 
Palazzo; and Pubhc Garden. Climate more equable 
than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic ; and availed 
of b} 7 very many people w r ith lung or bronchial 
troubles. Beautiful excursions in vicinity. Cor- 
niche road hence to Nice (18f M. ; 3-4 hrs.) through 
most exquisite coast scenery. 

Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino {Riviera 
Palace ; Balmoral Palace ; des Anglais ; Grand ; 
Metropole), with magnificent palace for con- 
certs, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and 
Gaming Establishment. Great numbers of fashiona- 
bles here, from December to May. 

Monaco (Beau Sejour; de la Condamine; Nice), 
the capital of a Lilliputian principality, under 
French protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur- 
rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes 
(open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good 
frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and 
new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter cli- 
mate, and sea bathing in summer. Between Monaco 



398 NICE. - CANNES. 

and Nice is Villafranca, winter headquarters of 
American navy in European waters. 

Nice {Grand Hotel des lies Britannigues ; Beau 
Sejour; de Nice ; des Anglais ; Grande Bretagne ; 
Riviera Palace; Imperial; Terminus; Alhambra; 
Regina ; Pare Hotel), a handsome and well built 
city (135,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the 
chiel of tiie fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediter- 
ranean coast, and lias an extremely soft and agreeable 
climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany, 
Russia and America, send many invalids here. The 
brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers. 
It was originally a Greek colony ; then Provencal, 
Savoyard, Sardinian, and French. Massena was born 
in house No. 21 Q.uai St. Jean Baptiste ; Garibaldi, 
at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue 
de la Prefecture ; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de France. 
The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais extends 
along the bay for 1| M., bordered hy beautiful villas 
and public establishments. See Place Massena, with 
bronze statue of Massena ; Jardin Publique, with palm 
groves and good band-music ; Place des Pliociens, and 
antique Greek fountain ; remains of Castle, on hill of 
palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over 
sea and rhts.; old and new Hotels de Ville ; Palace oj 
Prefecture; ancient Lascaris Palace ; Natural-History 
Museum ; Public, Library ; and Marble Cross. Many 
charming excursions to Villafranca, Montboron, Cht> 
teau Neuf St. Pons, Cimies, etc. (consult hotel-porters, 
most of whom speak English). It is 6 hrs. hence, 
by express (26 fr. 70 c, 20 fr. 75 c, 15fr.20c), to 
Marseilles. A series of tramway lines are now in 
operation on the coast in the neighborhood of Nice 
and Monte Carlo. 

Cannes {Hotel Splendide, in the town; Gallia, 
Beau Sejour, m E. quarter; des Princes, du Pare, 



TOULON.— MARSEILLES. 399 

in W. quarter ;. Continental, on the hills ; Gonnet, 
Gray and Albion ^ in S. quarter ; Grande-Bre- 
tagne, at Le Cannet) is one of the most popular 
and attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, sheltered 
from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs 
are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it, 
and the latter have many handsome villas in vicinity. 
Magnificent sea views, including the lies de Levins, 
where, on lie S. Marguerite, the Man with the Iron 
Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine 
escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat, ruins of one of 
the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes 
is Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur- 
rounded by walls and defended by a fort; and Golfe 
Jouan, where Napoleon landed from Elba. 

The Marseilles rly. goes on to Frejus, with ruins of 
Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded Grate, and aque- 
duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch 
rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health resort in winter, 
with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. 
behind. Toulon {Grand Hotel; Victoria; De la 
\Paix; Du Nord) is the chief French naval station 
(77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep 
double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended 
by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian army 
in 1707 ; but Bonaparte wrested it from an English 
garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues; 
Maritime Museum ; Puget's statuo of Renown ; prison, 
founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners 
sentenced to transportation; Hotel de Ville, with 
sculptures, and in front a statuo of Genius of Navi- 
gation; ancient Cathedral, with sculptures by 
Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from. 
Batterie du Salut. It is 41 \ M. hence to 

Marseilles {Hotel de Noailles; des Negociants; du 
Louvre et de la Paix' Terminus), the foremost mari- 
time city (503,000 inhab.) of France, which has a long 
and narrow inner iiarbor^with large modern docks out- 



400 MARSEILLES. — CHATEAU D'IF. 

side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoenicians, e.g. 600, 
under the name of Massilia ; defeated the Carthagin- 
ians ; established many colonies along the coast ; was 
conquered by Caesar, Visigoths, Franks, Saracens, and 
Spaniards ; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here 
were born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The 
Marseillaise call their La Cannebiere the finest street 
in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the 
ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues 
of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators; 
the Place Roy ale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee 
(statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to 
Triumphal Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories, 
and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, which runs 
under various names 2-| M. to the N. E. ; and out to 
Zoological Garden, near which is the handsome Long- 
champs Museum (open, 10-4), where an Ionic colon- 
nade joins the Natural-History Museum to the Picture- 
Gallery. 

See immense Docks ; Canal, which cost $12,000,000; 
Ch. of Notre Dame de la Garde, on steep and far- view, 
ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral ; old Ca- 
thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana ; palatial Hotel 
de la Prefecture; Palais de Justice; Transport B'ge. 

In suburbs, visit noble Comiche road. The 
Chateau dTf, built by Francis I. on an island in the 
harbor, was made famous by Dnmas's Monte Cristo. 

Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Frferes, 
Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their 
chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, Constantinople ; 
to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, Odessa,— returning by 
Athens & Naples ; to Salonica ; to Naples & Alexandria ; 
to Port Said, Jaffo, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi- 
zond ; to Madras and Calcutta ; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, 
Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yokohama (fortnightly.! ; to Al- 



ARLES. — NIMES. 401 

; giers ; to Barcelona ; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civit& 
! Vecchia, and Naples ; and occasionally to New York. 

From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way 
of Barcelona (see page 405.). 

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, and Lvons. 

Ely. from Marseilles to Paris in 16-18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr. 
35 c, 79 f". 80 c). Train leaving at 8.30 A.M. is due at 
Paris at 11.19 p.m. 

The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves, 
among which are ancient villages, to Aries {Grand 
Hotel du Forum ; Du Nord), a venerable Roman town 
(26,000 inhab.) near the Gamargue, or delta of the 
Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (b.c. 43) is 1,500 ft. 
around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades, 
and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the 
Goths, Saracens, and Franks, some of whose towers are 
still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are 
very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery 
of Champs Mysees (mentioned by Dante) ; columns in 
Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and of Constant 
tine's. Palace ; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set 
up here in 1676 ; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of 
Roman statues and antiquities ; 7th-century Cathedral, 
with fine portal and interesting cloisters ; viaduct with 
32 arches; and (2\ M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for- 
tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The 
women of Aries are celebrated for beauty. 

Fares, Marseilles to Aries, 10 fr. 60 c, 7 jr. 90 c, 
5 fr. SO c From Aries, via Tarascon, to Nimes, 4 fr. 
85 c, 3fr. 60 c, 2fr. 60 c 

Nimes (Hotel du Luxembourg ; Du Midi) the birth- 
place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine), has 
80,000 inhab. It was once a sacred spot in a Druidical 



402 TARASCON. — AVION ON. 

forest ; conquered by Rome, B.C. 121 ; and at time of 
Reformation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other 
French town has such noble Roman remains. The 
well-preserved Amphitheatre (b.c. 140) has 35 rows of 
seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. around and 74 ft. 
high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara- 
cens ; and afterwards contained a large village. The 
Maison Carree is a Roman temple, 88 X 42 ft. in area, 
with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob- 
ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch., and 
then a town-hall ; and is now a Museum, with antique 
mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern 
paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Ya., was mod- 
elled on plan of Maison Carree. See also ancient Tem~ 
pie of Diana (or Nymphceuni), and Roman Baths, below 
the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cava- 
lier, adorned with promenades ; 2 of the Roman town- 
gates ; Fountain.; and Boulevards. 

Tarascon (Hotel des Empereurs ; Du Petit Loitrre)> 
the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of 
Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle, Ch. of S. 
Mart he, Chapel of St. Gabriel, and Hue des Arcades. 

Avignon (Hotel de V Europe) is a handsome city 
(38,000 inhab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing and 
well-preserved wall (1349-68) of huge masonry, and 
many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, 
stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 
popes ; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison-tower of 
the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the 
Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like 
pile, 100 ft. high, with frowning towers and a chapel 
frescoed by Memmi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint, 
etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent 
public gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur- 
ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the 



VAUCLUSE. — VIENNE. 403 

Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the 
Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot 
of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with • hand- 
some Theatre and Hotel de Ville. See also Calvet 
Museum (1 fr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and 
picture-gallery ; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain ; 
Monument to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hotel 
Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes. 

Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to Vlle-sur- 
Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain 
of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of 
Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in 
existence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, 
over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by 
Agrippa. 

Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange 
{Hotel de la Poste et des Princes), a Roman colony, 
and afterwards capital of principality (until 1702), 
with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and 
Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman 
remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs. 
Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots 
against Henri III. in 1574. Valence {Hotel de la 
Croix) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with 
Roman ruins ; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI. ; 
Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienne {Hotel du 
Nord; De la Poste), "a little French Manchester" 
(25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of 
Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century 
basilica of S. Pierre; venerable Cathedral, etc. 

Lyons {Grand Hotel; de Rome; des Beaux-Arts; 
Bellecour; Terminus; Etrangers), the second city 
and chief manufacturing place of France (400,000 
inh.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and 
is of vast importance, commercially and strategically. 
The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed 



404 LYONS. 

from tlie 2 rivers ; and containing handsome rly. stat., 
Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. 
Blandine. See 13th-century Cathedral, with facade by 
Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open 
9-3), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and 
large picture-gallery (see Perugino's Ascension) ; Grand 
Theatre ; noble view from pilgrimage-cti. of Notre Dame 
de Fourviere, on heights ; Hotel de Ville (1647), near 
scene of massacres of 1794 ; Civic Library, 180,000 
vols. ; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum ; 
Hotel Dieu ; great tobacco-factories ; new Bellecour 
Theatre; 10th-century ch. of Abbey of Ainay, on site 
of Caligula's school of rhetoric; handsome Tete a" Or 
park; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century; and Place 
Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers; and 
the adjacent heights are covered with great forts. 

Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4^ hrs. (fares, 20 fr. 
65 c, 15^ fr., 11 fr. 35c); and to Besancon (fares, 
29 fr. 20 c, 21 fr. 85 c, 16 fr. 5 c). Besancon {Hotel 
de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in Prance 
(48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal 
Palace, Granvelle Palace (1 '34), Roman Arch, and 
Library (120,000 vols.). 

Express trains, Lyons to Paris. 9-10 hrs., by Macon, 
Chalons-sur-Saone, Dijon, etc 

Montpellier, Cette, and Perpign^n, see pages 405-6. 

Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 433. 

Pan, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Angouleme, Poi* 
tiers , Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 436 et seq. 



SPAIN. 405 



A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN. 

THE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to 
the most important points in Spain will never have 
occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most 
interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. 
From Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to 
Barcelona, from there to Valencia, and thence via La 
Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this point 
you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to 
Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail : 
then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar ; from Gib- 
raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to 
the Alcazar de San Juan : from thence to Madrid, taking 
on the way the ancient city of Toledo ; and from Madrid 
N. to France by Avila, Valladolid, Burgos, and Irun : 
thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include 
several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, 
Alicante, Salamanca, etc. ; but it gives a capital idea 
of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those who feel 
that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville, 
Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend 
to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and 
N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot 
see the whole. As for the journey to Portugal and 
especially to Lisbon we shall simply point out the route, 
as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy. 

Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through 
Montpellier (Hotel Neoet ; Bu Midi ; Delmas ; 
Grand) Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by "Ur- 
ban V. ; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked 
with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and 



406 GERONA. — BARCELONA. 

La Peyronnic ; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mu- 
seum (open Sun., Mon., and fete days, 11-3) ; a public 
library, 60,000 vols. ; and many beautiful fountains, 
statues, gardens, and promenades : — Cette, one of the 
most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, 
noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural 
history, and its botanical garden : — Narbonne, and 
Perpignan, an old French town with a Spanish aspect. 
The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerbere, in the midst 
of a wildly beautiful country ; baggage inspection not 
severe. The only point of special importance through 
which you pass on your way to Barcelona is 

Gerona {Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into 
two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oha. Noble 
view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. 
The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental 
staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single 
nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pillars, 
formed of little columns almost detached from each 
other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar 
is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is 
very fine. Churches of San Pedro de los Oalligans 
and San Feliu are worth seeing. The Capucin Con- 
vent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful 
intricate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to 

Barcelona (Grand Hotel; Inglaterra; Falcon y 
Central; del Oriente; Continental; Peninsular)^ one 
of the most enterprising as well as one of the most 
beautiful cities (500,000 inh.) in Southern Europe. Its 
appearance quite contradicts any impressions that one 
may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the 
modern Spaniards, impressions, alas ! confirmed later 
on by the aspect of more southward towns. Barcelona 
is the residence of a Captain General and of the civil 
governor of the province of Catalonia. The climate is 




Z Longitude. "West Q longitude East 



SPAIN. 407 

temperate both in summer and winter. The new part of 
the city, notably in the Gracia quarter, wiii remind 
Americans of the more beautiful sections of Boston and 
of Washington. The Rambla is the principal promenade 
of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged 
with all classes of the population. It runs from the Plaza 
de la Paz (Columbus Monument) to the Plaza de Cataluna, 
and from here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue, 
which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. The 
University with its 150,000 volumes is on the Plaza de la 
Universidad, a short distance N.W. from the Cataluna 
Plaza. Among other squares are the Real, with interest- 
ing shops ; the Medina Celi, with statue of Marquet ; del 
Rey, with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the 
Archives; de la Constitution, with the Casa Consistorial 
and the Casa de la Diputacion ; de Palacio, with fine 
marble fountain. From the latter a short avenue leads to 
the Parque de la Ciudadela, in which are the Palace, the 
Pantheon, and an unimportant Museode Reproducciones. 
The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the world, is 
built after the model of La Scala, at Milan. The Lonja, 
or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa de la 
Diputacion, on the Palace of the Constitution, was built 
in the 16th century ; fine portal. On the side fronting on 
the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade of the chapel 
of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion 
has many fine paintings ; among others a number of the 
best works of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial, 
a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or courtyard, is 
much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana, 
is near the old royal palace. The Archives of the 
Crown of Aragon in the Plaza del Rey is a superb 
historical collection dating back for ten centuries. 



408 BARCELONA. 

The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the 
Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first 
building was erected by Raymond Ber»nguer I. 
in 1058, but only part of that remains. The 
interior has three vast naves, ogival in style. The 
chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- 
tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. 
Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are 
said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia : beautiful 
stained glass windows here. The side door on the r, 
leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated 
in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork 
on the doors of the chapels : also the tomb of the dwarf 
buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are 
numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik- 
ing is S. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The 
Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by 
Villodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Eibera 
and other masters. The Miiseo Arqueologico, in the ch. of 
Santa Agneda, is interesting. The Museo JSstruch 
contains an interesting collection of weapons. On an 
isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, which 
can contain a garrison of about 10,000. Barcelonetta 
is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and 
workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a 
favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona. 
An excursion should be made to the immense rocky 
mass of Monserrat, which rises in the midst of the 
Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above 
the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce- 
lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell, 
on the Tarragona line, or much more easily from Mo* 
nistrol,o\\ the Saragossa rv.,from which a carriage rd. 
and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery on summit of the 
int. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is 
left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine 



SPAIN. 409 

style, dating from the 15 th century. ' The present mon- 
astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, 
"without special character. The ch. is beautified with a 
portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown 
of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need 
mention here. From the top of the rat. there is a 
splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar- 
agon, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in 
very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There 
are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon- 
serrat mass. 

The Balearic Islands. — There is regular com- 
munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital 
of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of 
the province which to-day bears the name of Bale- 
ares, and which comprises the islands of Majorca, 
Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty 
town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight- 
ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it. 
See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1426, finished 
22 years later : the Citadel, built at the close of the 16th 
century : the Palace of the Captain General : the Cathe- 
dral, founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends 
to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an 
ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of 
Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the 
name of King Martin, when that island belonged to the 
Crown of Aragon : — In the Island of Minorca, Port 
Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi- 
gators of all nations. The English were there for a 
long time, and quitted the island only in 1782. 

Erom Barcelona those who have time may find it 
interesting to visit Saragossa. 



410 SARAGOSSA. 

Saragossa (Fonda de Europa ; Las Cuatro 
JYaciones) ; existed in the time of the Romans. 
Augustus Csesar founded a military colony there, to 
which he gave the name of Ceesarea Augusta, whence 
the contraction Saragossa. The ry. stats, are some dis- 
tance outside the town, which has a population of 
92,000, and is situated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It 
is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of 
Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still 
shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gate ofNues- 
tra Senora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege. 
From the stone bridge which unites the town with the 
suburb of Altabas there is a hue view of the city and 
the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object of 
fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. 
According to tradition a chapel was built here about the 
year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Yir- 
gm herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue 
so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso- 
leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and 
the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the 
present ch. Was laid in 1681. The interior is rather 
naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful 
marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In 
the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian. 
The Ch. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Epis- 
copal seat, is considered, however, as more important 
than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna- 
mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has 
an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre- 
senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of 
the Magi, the Ascension, etc. ; also several fine tombs. 
The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor 
Tudeiilla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter- 
ranean ch. of Santa Lngracia, where repose the 



SPAIN. 411 

remains of many Christian martyrs, who were slain by 
»he soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was 
nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other 
chs. are too numerous to mention. The Casa Muni- 
cipal, the Exchange, with its vast rectangular hall, 
formed by 24 beautiful columns in four rows ; the 
Ch. of San Pablo ; the Aljaferia, which was a pal- 
ace of pleasure for the Arab kings ; the Bull Ring ; a 
great number of beautiful private residences ; the 
University, which has a library of 25,000 vols. ; some 
convents and hospitals; and the suburb of Santa 
Engracia, may ail be readily seen in the course of half 
a day. Erom the little hills in the neighborhood there 
are very pretty views. Ou tf 3 way from Barcelona to 
Saragossa you pass through 

Lerida (Fonda Suiza; JJe Espana). Erom here 
there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a 
magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed 
with various Arabic styles ; picturesque and rich 
cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III., 
is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded 
with a great number of chapels and many fine altars. 

The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the 
limits which we had assigned for a brief journey 
through Spain. We recommend the tourist to go 
through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia. You 
leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach 
Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your 
provisions with you from the hotel. The journey 
affords a fine series of contrasted views of Spanish 
scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through 
remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts„, 



412 TARRAGONA. — VALENCIA. 

and then descend into the delicious landscape in tike. 
neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves of 
oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi- 
tropical shrubs. 

Tarragona (Paris; PJuropa; del Castro) is a very 
old town of about 30,000 inhab., once the centre of 
the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the 
sites of some of Hannibal's battles. The Paseo de 
Santa Clara is built over the remains of the Roman 
walls. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern 
residences are built with the debris of temples and of 
Roman palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on 
the site of an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is 
Gothic in style ; interior vast, aspect majestic, 
ornaments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in 
old Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and 
statues ; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are 
the remains of Don Jaime I OJ King of Ara- 
gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next 
place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city 
on the 1. bank of the Ebro (25,000 inhab.). Imposing 
fortifications. Cathedral of little importance. Shortly 
before reaching Valencia you pass Murviedro, near 
which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city 
of Saguntum. If you go to these ruins, visit them at 
midday. The population is not aggressive, but there 
have been brigands in the neighborhood. 

Valencia (Hotel de Paris ; Cuatro JSTaciones : 
Espana; Oriente; Roma) is the chief town (170,000 
inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence 
of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is 
beautifully situated in the midst of a great number of 
groves and gardens. About 2| M. distant is its port, 
sailed El Grao, which is accessible for large steam- 
ships. Valencia may be seen in shcrt time. The first 
impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its 



SPAIN. 413 

natural situation and its architecture grow upon one. 
The principal squares are those of the Constitution, 
where is the city hall ; that of S. Francisco; that of S. 
Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth spending 
an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh- 
boring mts. are there ; the celebrated Excha?ige aud 
the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the 
16th century. The principal halls are ornamented with 
good portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con- 
nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The Cathedral 
dates from 1262. The largest tower is called El Migue- 
lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized 
in the name of S. Michael. From the platform o<* the 
tower, splendid view of the sea and the coast. The 
interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by 
square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in 
this ch. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sola Capitu- 
lar, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, 
books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old 
mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan 
del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of 
Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu- 
pied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals 
here. The University buildings are not remarkable. 
In the Church of Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena 
by Ribalta. An invisible mechanism winds up this 
canvas aud opens 4 great curtains showing a superb 
crucifix, which is much venerated by the Valencians. 
The Provincial Museum is in the old convent del 
Carmen (9-4); it contains numerous old pictures, 
though few of great merit. The Theatre is large, 
but without character. The Bull Ring is immense. 
The principal promenades are the Alameda, the 
Botanical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks 
by the banks of the river. In the tobacco-factory, 



4:14 ALICANTE. — ALBACETE. 

3500 women are occupied. The Valencian women 
are renowned for their beauty. Eroin Yalencia vol 
may go to Alicante via La Enema. 

Alicante {Fonda de Bossio) is a fine seaport (40,000 
inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural 
features. The streets are large and well paved. The 
Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked 
with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 
ehs. is worth much study. The Convent of S. Clara, 
or of the Holy Eace, as it is called, possesses a much 
venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Vero- 
nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour. 
The Citadel of S. Barbara is supposed to be impreg- 
nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and 
Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situ- 
ated on a mt. -chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- 
vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of 
an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly. 
here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. 
Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take 
ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. 
On the way you pass 

Albacete {Fonda Francisquillo), renowned for its 
manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise 
are always offered by pedlers to passengers on the 
trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to 
Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main 
line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which 
the Order of the Knights of St. Juan made its head- 
quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend 
carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S. 
Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most inter- 
esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Man" 
zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches 
off. You pass through Val de Penas, whence you get 



SPAIN. 415 

a good view uf the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca- 
zar and the Val de Penas lies much of the country 
described in Bon Quixote. Many interesting points on 
the line. Notice Almuradiel, and Filches, near which 
is the great plain where in 1212 a Christian army 
defeated the great Mussulman hordes under the com- 
mand of Mahomed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine 
bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is 
little of importance to be seen except the large ch. in 
what is known as the Plateresque style of architecture. 
Cordova ( Fonda Espafwlaj Suizaj Fonda de Oriente) 
is -an old town of 55,000 iiihab., situated in a delicious 
plain on the r. bank ol the Guadalquivir, in full view of 
the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu- 
ous museum of antiquities : a great collection of edifices 
of all epochs ; and is divided into two parts by one long 
street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the 
commerce of the city. The walls which still surround 
it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or 
square, which were the work of successive generations of 
Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con- 
stitution is surrounded by fine buildings. The old stone 
bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au- 
gustus. The principal objects of interest are the 
Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, 
adjacent to it. For permission to enter address the 
porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The 
Episcopal Falace is built of very rich materials, but not 
in remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li- 
brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops 
of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triunfo, a hand- 
some marble monument, surmounted with a column 
which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A 
great number of the houses in the city are ornamented 
with inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis- 



416 CORDOVA. 

trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly. 
station. 

The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one 
of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It 
was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and com- 
pleted finally in 990. The exterior is rather gloomy; 
the courtyard within, remarkably beautiful. It has 
colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre ; 
and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The 
interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly 
described as a £ ' marble grove." The roof is sup- 
ported by a vast number of slender pillars, beau- 
tifully wrought with Corinthian- capitals and shafts 
of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, 
etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta 
del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of 
Oranges. The Milirab, or the Holy of Holies, 
is very curious. The Mosque was converted into 
a Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the 
Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing 
the ashes of King Alphonso XI. and his father, 
Ferdinand IV. ; also the tomb of the celebrated 
chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S. 
Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The 
Convent of S. Pablo has beautiful cloisters and a 
magnificent staircase. Many other convents are rich 
in works of art. Just outside the town is the 
sanctuary of Our Lady of la Fuen Santa ; great public 
festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An 
excursion to the Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth 
while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 
153£ M. On the way you pass Montilla, which is one 
of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the 
Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At 
Booadilla a branch line to the r. goes to Malaga (re- 
freshment room here). Antequera is an old fortress, 
said to have been built in Roman times. Notice 



SPAIN. 417 

the colossal bronze angel on the cupola of the ch. of 
San Sebastian ; also the Arch of Hercules, a Roman 
ruin. 

Granada (Washington Irving, and Roma, near 
Alhambra ; Alameda, and Victoria, in the town), 
a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is world famous, 
and we shall only briefly indicate the best way 
to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the 
town in a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes 
of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so 
called because of their color, are on the first and the last 
of these hills. The Alhambra, which is a city in itself, 
covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on 
the third, separated from the others by a deep ravine 
filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs 
the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into 
4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of 
the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the 
Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Triunfo, at the end 
of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white 
marble column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also 
are the Royal Hospital and the Concent of the Merced. 
On the Plaza Nueoa, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine 
edifice of the Audiencia. See the Ch. of Santa Ana, 
Here is a University, with rich library and a rather 
inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral, to be 
seen from 8 a.m. to noon, and 3 to 5 p.m., has a fine 
front ornamented with statues and bas-reliefs. Interior 
has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed 
of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon 
is very fine. The Camilla del Pilar is filled with beau- 
tiful marbles. See the group of " Charity " in the Sala 
Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist, 
who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla 
Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain. 



41b GRANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA. 

The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of 
Perdinand and Isabella, and here are their tombs. The 
two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus : two lions 
repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre 
of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second 
mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, 
who was insane, and of Philip her husband. The tower 
of the Cathedral is unfinished. ' 

The Alhambra is open daily from 9 to 12 a.m. and 
2 to 4 p m. Leaving the Plaza Nueva you scale the 
Cuesta de los Gomeres, At the top of this street you 
find the Puerta de las Granadas, a kind of triumphal 
arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an an- 
cient Arabic gate. Beyond this lie the groves and the 
gardens which surround the Alhambra. We will simply 
enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de Car- 
los V., ornamented with statues; the Puerta de Juicio f 
or Door of Judgmeiit ; the Plaza de los Algibes, or 
Place of the Cisterns ; the Puerta del Vino ; the Palace 
of Charles V., a fine Renaissance structure, but un- 
finished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or 
court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 
Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a marvellous 
Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by 
250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin- 
cipal facade, which was to the N., was demolished to 
make room for the Palace of Charles V. Its main 
entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you 
can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind 
the N. facade of the Imperial palaoe The Hall of 
the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Ifirador, or 
toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Ifezquita, 
the Hall of the Baths, the Patio de las Rejas, the 
Court of Lions, the most precious specimen oi 
Arabesque architecture in Spain, with 128 white 



SPAIN. 419 

marble columns m the galleries surrounding it, with 
& floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 14 
great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal 
of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall 
of the Abencerrages, should be carefully studied-, in 
the hall of the Two Sisters is the famous Alham- 
bra Vase, the finest known example of Hispano- 
Moresque faience. The Royal Chapel,vrh\ch is rarely 
open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. From 
the platform of the Tower of the Vela there is an 
admirable view. Visit also the Adarves, a line of old 
bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa 
Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of the Carceles, of 
Los Slete Stielos, del Agua, de las Infantas and many 
others, should be carefully inspected. To visit the 
Generalife you leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go 
down the hill by a route which crosses the ravme of Los 
Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of 
a neighboring mt. The Generalife was the pleasure 
houseV the Alliambra. But little remains of it except 
a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one 
of the few halls which are still covered wlUi a roof, there 
is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, 
which have only a chronological merit. "From the 
Tower of the Generalife," says a French writer, " you 
fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure 
and limpid 'is the air through which you see that moun- 
tain chain." There are a great many beautiful excur- 
sions in the neighborhood of the Alliambra, but to 
enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a 
week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are 
very interesting, 'but the prudent traveller will scarcely 
care to venture among them without a stout escort. 
From Granada the distauce to Malaga by rail is 119 M. 
Malaga (Roma, on the Alameda; Royal .Victoria,' 
Paris' Jnglaterra, second class, but good), with 135,000 



420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR. 

inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exquisite 
climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its 
chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the City Hall, 
the new Custom House, the Theatre, which can contain 
2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds 
10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The AU 
cazaba is an ancient fortress which antedates the 
Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal 
of the Moors. The Castle of Gibralfaro is on a hill to 
the E. of the city. The higtiest tower is an imposing 
mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 it. high. 
Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom- 
enade in this town is the Alameda : many pretty ioun.- 
tains and statues here. The Cathedral, which would be 
rich in any other country, is nor remarkable for Spain. 
All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all 
kinds of fruit : orange, lemon, and fig trees are abun- 
dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to 
connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar. 

Gibraltar {Royal; Bristol; Grand; Europa) is a 
city situated on a slope on the W. part of the famons 
rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab. 
exclusive of the English garrison of 6,000 men. Main 
Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow 
road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is 
guarded by batteries. From top to bottom the mi. 
is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the 
mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished tower, 
called O'Hara's or St. George's. It was intended to be 
sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the 
Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 
the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke 
Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against 
Philip V. presented itself before Gibraltar, the fortifi- 
cations of which were then in ruins an^ occupied by a 



SPAIN. 421 

garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and 
although in the name of the archduke, England 
thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take 
it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but with- 
out success. The fortifications can be visited with 
special permission, which may be easily obtained at 
the hotels. There is also a good club to which 
strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made 
from Gibraltar to several interesting points on the 
African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. Opposite 
Gibraltar is the town of Algeciras (Hotel Reina 
Cristina), the occasional scene of international con- 
ferences. It is a typically Spanish town situated on 
a beautiful bay and commaading a fine view of the 
rock and fortifications of Gibraltar. 

Cadiz (Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Francia; Fonda 
ie Cadiz; de Furopa) is one of the most charming of 
Spanish towns (6i,00Q inhab ). It is on a peninsula, 
which extends into the ocean, and is generally consid- 
ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is 
strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for 
defenca. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina : also the 
Fort ofS. Sebastian. From the Torre de la Vigia, in the 
centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadia 
and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, 
and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. 
The Casas Consistoriales occupy fine buildings on the 
Plaza de Isabel Segunda. The Alameda is a fine 
promenade on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city. 
The Park Genoves is a fine pleasure ground with sea 
view. There are many colleges and seminaries, 
as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous 
libraries. The new Cathedral, which is at the 
south end of the town, is not a very success- 
ful piece of architecture. A great profusion of 
marbles bi» ve been used in its decoration, but the gen- 



422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE. 

eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury 
is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral has 
fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. 
Catalina are some pictures by Murillo. Steam com- 
munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol- 
land, the Erench and German coasts, and Mexico, is 
very frequent. 

You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steamboat, on 
the Guadalquivir, in 8 nrs. ; fares, 15 p.; breakfast on 
board from 2 to 3 p. The journey is pretty, but most 
travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about 
82f M. ; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty 
town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products 
of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, 
museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. 
of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. 

Seville (Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Roma; 
Europa), with 143,000 inhabitants, requires a long 
visit. We will not attempt to describe it in detail, 
but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville 
has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most 
of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly 
all the houses have their patios, or inner courtyards, 
separated from the street by vestibules paved with 
white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron 
.gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The 
Plaza S. Fernando is a vast square which in the morn- 
ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with 
orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels 
and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace 
of the Ayuntamiento. The Calle de Ge?iova, at the 
S. W. angle of the square, leads to the 

Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its famous 
tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else 
in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catholic 



SPAIN. -±23 

religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable 
marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old 
mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville 
after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur- 
ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was 
the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. high. 
In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is 
surmounted by an enormous statue of Faith, which 
despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. 
The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519. 
The most striking entrance is the Puerto, del Perdon, 
which was probably in old times the entrance to a 
minaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from which 
you pass under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by 
the so-called Lizard Boor. Notice especially the Chief 
Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, the Tomb of 
Fernando Columbus, the Capilla Real, which contains 
the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the 
Wise : also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the 
chapel of the Baptistery. Observe the noted picture rep- 
resenting St. Anthony of Padua, which was cut out of 
its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, and has 
now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are 
also several paintings by the same artist. In the 
sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorothea by Murillo, 
an " Ecce Homo " by Morales, and a remarkable 
painting by Goya. In the Sacristia Mayor is the 
vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587 
by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular 
temple, crowned with, a statue of St. John and covered 
with a most prodigious number of ornaments and 
statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- 
stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in 
character. From the top *)f the Giralda Tower, 
which is reached by an inclined plane, up which 



424 SEVILLE. — THK ALCAZAR. 

it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, <*ood view 
of the town, the river winding through the plains, 
and the lulls beyond. Leaving the Cathedral by the 
Giralda Door, you reach the square on which is the 
Archbishop's Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral 
to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- 
memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of 
this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection 
of documents relative to the discovery and conquest of 
America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far 
away is 

The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova 
and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful 
Moorish monument in Spam. It was connected witl 
the great walls that ran round Seville in the time o\ 
the Arabs. In the Alcazar were born and died the 
Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso 
XL, father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, 
who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with 
reasonable pay, will give you full description of the 
beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you 
through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the 
Monarchs of Spain whenever they visit Seville. The 
gardens of the Alcazar are delightful. 

The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an 
edifice built at the beginning of the 16th century, by 
the first Marquis of Tarifa, Tradition says he had 
brought back from a journey made to Jerusalem in 
1519 a quantity of earth from . the very house of 
Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the 
layer on which were laid the foundations of the 
present palace, built on the plans of the dwelling 
of Pilate at Jerusalem. There are a great num- 
ber of curious and interesting palaces and pri- 
vate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los 



SPAIN". 425 

Taveros, where the tribunal of the Inquisition had its 
sitting, will attract the traveller's attention. The 
guides procure admission for you to the patios of the 
richest houses, where you can get an idea of the luxury 
and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The 
Gh. of S. Martino has some good pictures. The Hos- 
pital of La Garidad, or the Charity, near the Golden 
Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, 
contains several of Murillo's best paintings. The pro- 
vincial museum is also quite rich in the works of 
Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo* 
was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of 
Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, 
is one of the marvels of this city. Its gardens now 
form the Parque Maria Luisa. Seville is as 
busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. 
The banks of the Guadalquivir are lined with ware- 
houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if 
you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we 
recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you 
have not stopped at Cordova on your way down, but 
have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S. 
Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return 
journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs.; 
fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 20, 29 r. 45. From Cordova 
to Madrid it is 274j M. ; time by ordinary trains, 
16 hrs.; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express 
rates are somewhat higher. In the late summer and 
autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a 
week each way, between Madrid and Seville. Between 
the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of 
Castillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we 
do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid 
first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excur* 
sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is 



426 ARANJUEZ. — MADRID. 

Aranjuez, with refreshment buffet. This is one of 
the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is 
a palace, beautifully situated, commanding' an immense 
view ; but there is little that is architecturally striking 
in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable. 
The river Tagus flows through the domain. 

Madrid (Grand Hotel de la Paz; De Roma; De 
Paris; Fonda de los Embay 'adores ; Ingles; Penin- 
sular ; Cuatro Naziones; Orients), with 510.000 
inhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the 
Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. 
John Hay said of Madrid that it was a "capital 
with malice aforethought," by which he alluded to its 
situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in 
winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We 
recommend the tourist to devote his chief attention to 
the museum ; then, if his time permits, to include the 
other edifices and collections of Madrid. 

The Museo del Prado contains vast and absolutely 
unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, 
but they are not very well arranged. _ Two immense 
galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth- 
ers contain the different Italian, French, Flemish, and 
Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum 
can be formed from the statement that it contains 46 
pictures bv Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Eibera, 
64 by Velasquez, 55 by teniers, 16 by Rubens, 10 
by Raphael, 20 bv Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 
by Yan Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 
16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, 
and 25 by Paul Veronese. About half-way down 
the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall 
called the Salon de la Bepia Isabel Here are grouped 
together the chefs d'ceuvre of the museum. The 
guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited with 



SPAIN. 427 

great care may be had at the booksellers', or at the 
museum. 

In the Real Accidentia de Bellas Artes there is a 
collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms: 
Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well repre- 
sented. The Iluseo de Arte Modemo contains 
modern Spanish paintings and sculptures. There 
are several interesting private collections in Madrid. 
The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to 
you. 

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated in the 
W. part of the town. Among the 30 ri>oms on the 1st 
floor, the largest and finest is the Hall of the Ambassa- 
dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents 
the exaltation of the Spanish monarchy. The walls are 
draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- 
mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne, 
which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of 
Prudence, and on the 1. that of Justice. The chapel is 
extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, 
the theatre, the magnificent collection of Elemish tapes- 
tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa- 
lacio Real is the Armeria (Museum of Armor), which 
contains an extremely interesting collection. Here 
are, among many relics of famous dead, the sword 
of the Gid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon- 
zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria: 
also the helmet of Francis I. The Military Museum 
of Artillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. 
At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and 
Louis I. The museum gives a complete review of the 
progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th 
century. Here also are many flags carried during the 
Spanish conquest of America The naval museum, 
the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the 



428 MADKID. 

library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid has 
several important libraries, most noticeable among 
which are those of the University and of the legislative 
bodies. 

The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies, 
is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its 
interior is very richly ornamented with fine paintings : 
that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin- 
ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol 
is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. 
The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather 
cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architec- 
ture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared with the won- 
derful richness of decoration to which the eye has 
become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the 
Plaza Mayor the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; and 
in the Plaza de Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In 
the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None 
of the churches is particularly striking; the Catedral 
de Nuestra Seiiora de la Almudena is on the site of 
the old Armory. The Ch. of the Atocha, a modern 
Romanesque structure, contains the tombs of General 
Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. 
In the old church the marriages of the royal 
family were celebrated, and the troops took the oath 
of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of 
Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead 
are sealed up, are very interesting. The Plaza de Torox, 
or the Bull Ping of Madrid, is one of the largest in the 
kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of 
brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. 
Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, 
which are usually given every Sunday from April to 
October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in 
choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady 
or the sunny side. This is very important in Spain. 



SPAIN. 429 

The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should 
be visifed. The Prado is a large boulevard which 
runs round a great part of the city, from the old Atocha 
gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum 
is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a 
magnificent display of Spanish beauty : commemorative 
monument here to the second of Maj one of the epi- 
sodes of the Prench occupation of 1&J8. There are 
numerous other fine promenades within the city. The 
Pue rid de Alcald, an arch of triumph to commemorate 
the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on 
the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was 
built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand VII. from his 
captivity. The Plaza de Madrid is quite fine. 
There are several bridges over the little river 
Manzanares, which oddly enough is for the greater 
part of the year without any water in its channel. 
The Puerta del Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of 
the city. About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank 
)f the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. 
Jxcursion to the Escurial may be made. It is 3T| M. 
from. Madrid ; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 25, 
11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the 
eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 
to commemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to ac- 
complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This 
vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than 
1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its 
appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the 
Capilla Meyor, filled with royal monuments, the sac- 
risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna- 
mented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or 
v ault, where the kincrs of Spain are buried, are the prin- 
cipal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a mag- 
nificent stai rease of granite and marble. The urn con- 



430 TOLEDO. 

taming the remains of Charles V. was opened in 1870, 
and the body was even then in perfect preservation. 
The Library of books and the MS. Library will attract 
the attention of scholars. The main entrance to the 
palace is in the middle of the N. facade. See the Hall 
of Battles, covered with frescos representing Spanish 
conquests ; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived 
and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa 
del Principe, is a charming little museum of paintings, 
sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat, where 
Philip II. came to sit when presiding over the work of 
the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the 
route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said 
to be even more splendid than those of the palace at 
Madrid. 

There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and 
picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the 
royal residence town of Aranjuez ; the other is a little 
more direct ; fares about the same by both lines. 

Toledo (Hotel Castilla; Fonda del Norte; Fonda 
de Lino; Fonda Imperial) is one of the most 
remarkable towns in Europe. The rly. stat. is in the 
valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara 
Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train 
to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the tine 
view in the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town 
of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day 
has only about 20,000. The river Tagus makes a great 
curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara 
and the S. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is 
majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks ; great gates 
flanked with Moorish towers : old Puerta Visagra, 
which dates from the Arabic domination ; the celebrated 
Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d'ceuvre 
of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The prin* 



SPAIN. 431 

cipa! square is the old Zocodover, to-day called the 
Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of 
interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar the celebrated 
Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Reyes, and a military 
college. The Cathedral was begun in 1227, and finished 
2| centuries later. Its architecture is pure Gothic: 
exterior of great majesty. The principal W. front has 
3' doors, called those of the TJscriba7ios, the Perdon y 
and the Torre. Door of the Pardon is the largest and 
richest. To the r. of the facade is the tower : on the 1. 
the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly 200 ft. 
high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. 
The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we 
renounce a detailed uescription of them here. Observe 
particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, 
the Capilla Mayor, the wonderful effect of the vast 
range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun 
is shining through them in the morning, the Coro, and 
the beautiful Gothic portal of the Sala Capitular. The 
Tombs of the Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of 
the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing. 

The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented 
with a great number of chains hung on the walls out- 
side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The 
cloisters, recently restored, are among the most 
beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are 
of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial 
museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. 
S. Maria la Blanco, is a curious memorial of the Jewish 
epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, 
who study their profession here from the age of 13 to 
18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which 
crosses the nighest point of the hill on which the city 
is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. 
The courtyard is formed of 32 arcades. It has been 



432 VALLADOLID. - BURGOS. 

three times burned and three times restored. Iiv 
the court is a group commemorating the conquest of 
Tunis by Charles V. See the Paseo de las Rosas; 
the Paseo de Madrid. 

Valladolid (Francia, Calle de Teresa Gil ; Sigh, 
Plaza de S. Ana) is the next place of interest; although 
from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go 
by branch lines to the old university town of Sala- 
manca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 65,000 
inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University , Cathe- 
dral, Santa Maria la Antigua, San Pablo, Colegio 
de San Cregorio, Museum, and Royal Palace. The 
University Library has a collection of Bibles. See 
Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los Cuchillos" in the 
church of Las Angustias, and house where Columbus 
died in 1506. The Museum of Valladolid, which is 
located in the Colegio de Santa Cruz, contains sculp- 
tures in wood and examples of the works of Rubens, 
Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal 
treasure of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia, 
or tabernacle, in silver. 

Burgos (Hotels: Fonda del Norte; Paris), with 
32,000 inhab., may be seen hi a short time. Notice 
the Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa 
del Cordon; iheCasade Miranda, covered with sculp- 
tures; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 fine 
alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, 
and fountains ; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the 
13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth- 
ic architecture. The principal facade towards the W. 
is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi- 
cent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, 
sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc Observe the Tomb of the 
Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Esteban is a very 
fine Cena, Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip 
II. to Fernando Gonzales : also the house of the Cid, 
or the monument erected in 1784 on the ruins of that 



SPAIN. 433 

house. In the City Hall are the remaLis of the Great 
Captain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden 
coffin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome. 
Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos. 

The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and 
San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented 
in late years by English and Americans) all deserve 
attention; but the tourist will hardly find time to 
stop at any of them. The frontier of France is, 
reached at Irun. There is little of importance to see 
in Irun : memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this 
neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. 
A little beyond it is S. Jean de Luz. The old town 
of Fontarabia may be reached from Irun. 

Next comes Biarritz {Grand Hotel; Victoria et de 
la Plage; UAngleterre; Des Princes; Pes Ambas- 
sadeurs; De V Europe; good Casino here; omnibus 
to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popu- 
lar seaside resorts on the S. coast of France. It was 
a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie. 

Bayonne, 23f M. from Irun (Hotel du Commerce; 
St. Etienne; Pes Ambassadeurs; De France; 
Castille), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of 
the Adcur and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows 
in the Cathedral, 15th century. The Place Gram' 
wiont routams the Theatre, the Mairie, and the 
Cu- a .tnn> House, Good view of the sea from the 
citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its 
6ame. 



431 LISBON 



PORTUGAL. 

WE have thought it probable that the vacation 
tourists would not be likely to push their jour- 
ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragraph con- 
cerning the journey to Portugal. Fares from Madrid 
to Badajos, %*l\\ M, 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87. 
From Badajos to Lisbon it is 174^ M., 5,260 reis, 
4,100 r., 2,930 r. ; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon 
time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, 
the Portuguese monetary unit, is about \ centime, or 2\ 
mills : each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto 
de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish 
real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos 
to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where there are 
■many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of 
the Middle Ages. 

Lisbon, in Portuguese Lisboa (Aveuida Palace; 
Grand Hotel Central, situated on the Bay; Continen- 
tal; Braganga; Durand, mod. charges), with 310,000 
iniiab., is on the r. bank of the river Tagus, built 
in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. The general 
view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail 
is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the 
Duro do Praga Augusta, the Chiado, and Alecrim. 
The Commercial Square, Praga do Commercio, has the 
largest and most remarkable public buildings in the 
city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. 
In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue 
of Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous 
buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Post 
Office, the Ministries, et^ On the middle of the N. side. 



PORTUGAL. 435 

magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral, Chs. of 
S. Antonio, of S. Roque, of the Carmelites, and many 
convents have rich collections of art treasures. The 
Royal Palace, or Paco das Necessidades, faces a small 
square of the same name, See Botanical Gardens, 
reported the finest in the world. Observe beautiful 
aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. The 
Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, National 
Museum of Fine Arts, and the San Carlos and Dona 
Maria Segunda Theatres should be seen. There are 
but few remains of old Lisbon, which was destroyed 
by the great earthquake. The inclined plane rlys. are 
convenient; fine views on many of them. TheBelem. 
possesses a great many fine gardens. The old JBelein 
Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Almada 
Mafra, a vast convent ch., and the Palace of Cmtra, 
where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal 
suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is 
weekly steam communication with South America, with 
the East, and with England. A journey may be made 
to Oporto, taking Goimbra on the way. Fares to 
Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r. ; time, \\\ hrs. ; 
distance, 15 8^ M. 

Coimbra {Continental; Mondego; Braganga) is on 
the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious 
climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has 
numerous manufactures of faience. The Romans 
made it one of their most important military posts. To- 
day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. 
University, with 900 students here. The old Cathedral 
is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel 
of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable., Yisit Quinta 
das hagrimas Park with its Fonte dos Amour, where 
lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens, 



436 OPOKTO. — PAU. 

Oporto (Hotel Francfort; Grand Hotel; H^tel dt* 
Paris), with 140,000 inhab., is the second city of Por- 
tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- 
tend between these are filled with charming villas and 
country-houses. The effect of the Quintas, or Terraces, 
is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not 
especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar- 
ters, the oldest of which, San Martinho, has but little of 
importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Dos Cleri- 
os (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great 
arracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady of 
Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro IV. is 
preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ; 
also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the 
Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving 
commercial town. From Lisbon to Eoora it is 72 M. ; 
fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r. 

Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in 
the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, 
and fig groves. Many Roman antiquities here. Erom 
Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169^ M. 

Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 
10,000 inhab., with a good cathedral; fine military hos- 
pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. 
Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group 
of islands. 

Erom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr. 75 c. 
7fr. 20 c.) to 

Pau {Hotel Gassion, a splendid edifice ; Bellevue; 
Splendide; Be France; Beau Sejour; de la Poste; 
Grand Hotel; de la Paix; de V Europe. Pensions: 
Colbert; Hattersley. Restaurants: Gassion, Com- 
merce, de la Borade), with 29,000 inhab., is one of the 
most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a 
favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate. 



FRANCE. 437 

Life is raiher expensive at Pan, but there are a great 
number or' strangers there yearly; abundance of 
beautifully furnished apartments to be had. The 
town is divided into 2 parts by the little brooklet 
called the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The 
Castle of Henri IV. (open dailv except Mon. from 
10 to noon and from 2 to 4 p.m.), near Pau, is well 
worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made 
by order of Francis I., in the great Hall of the States. 
The Cli. of S. Martin, modern ; the Palace of Jus- 
tice; the Museum (open Thurs. ancl Sun., from 1 to 
5, free, and every day for a small fee); the Place 
Hoy ale, with a statue of Henri IV,, may all readily 
be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to 
Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes (Hotel des 
Princes ; He France ; Continental) and Eaux- 
Chaudes. The former town receives between 6 and 
10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing 
establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, 
theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establish- 
ment at Raux-Chaudes (Hotel Baudot; He France) 
Ip one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The 
waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- 
tism, and skin diseases. For full description of this 
Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to 
refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe 
and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris. 

Cauterets (Hotel Continental; He France; HAn- 
gteterre; Du Pare) may be reached via Pau and 
Tar-oes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing 
establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets 
annually. Beautiful excursions in the neighbor- 
hood. Going N"., after leaving Bayonne, the first 
place of importance is 

Bordeaux (Hotel de France; I)e Bayonne; He 
Faisan; Hes Princes et de la Paix; Hes America-ins; 



438 BORDEAUX. 

Confortable ; Commercial), with 256,000 inhab., 
a beautiful town ou the 1. bank of the Garonne. The 
city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its 
coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and. 
deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships. 
See the Bordeaux bridge, built in 1819, from which 
admirable view of the river, and its banks lined with 
palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la 
Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, is the principal 
rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are 
in this neighborhood ; but the largest of all the squares 
in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are 
the Rostral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- 
merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues 
here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian 
statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley, 
was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in 
Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. 
This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in 
the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was con- 
secrated in 1090 ; rebuilt at different epochs ; and is now 
being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Toiver 
of Pev-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, 
in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel, founded 1160, belongs 
to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell 
tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croix has a rich fayade 
recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous 
statues of noted Frenchmen. In the vestibule of the 
court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the 
other public buildings are adorned with sculptures and 
paintings. The great Theatre lias a fine vestibule orna- 
mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that 
the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and 
that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus- 
sians. The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600 



FRANCE 439 

pictures of moderate merit ; catalogue, 5(; c. *, museum 
open Sun., Mon., and Thurs., 10—3 ; other days small 
fee. See Library, 200,000 vols , the Museum of 
Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History, 
also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the 
Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon- 
tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commercial 
port : steam navigation with South America, Russia, 
Holland, England and Ireland, New York, and New 
Orleans. The public garden is a pretty promenade. 
The watering-places of Bagneres de Bigorre and Bagn* 
eres de hmchon may both be conveniently reached 
from Bordeaux. 

From Bordeaux it is 34f M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c, 3 fr. 55 
c, 2 fr. 45 c.) to 

Arcachon {Grand Hotel; Leg allais ; De Francs? 
Richelieu; J amp//). This is a charming seaside resort 
on the Bay of Biscay; and in the pine forest which 
stretches along the coast are a great number of winter 
villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque 
'cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit 
Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 159^- M. 
(time, h\ hrs., fares, 3i fr. 65 c, 23 fr. 75 c, 17 fr. 
40c.) to 

Toulouse {Hotel Ticollier ; Be r Europe ; Souville), 
with 147,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan- 
guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but 
little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral 
of St. Etienne and the Museum (founded 1792) of an- 
tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux 
to Paris it is 35 8| M. ; time, about 9 hrs. by express ; 
fares, 72 fr. 5c, 54 fr. 5 c, 39 fr. 65 c. You pass 
through Angouieme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans. 

Angouieme {Hotel dit Palais,; de France), on the 
Chart'iite, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a 



440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS. 

fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre, a Cabinet of Natural 
History, and a good Library. 

Poitiers {Hotel du Palais ; De V Europe ; De France) 
is near the river Clain. Its finest square is the Place 
d' Amies. Cathedral in Gothic style, with very lofty 
halls. Interesting ch. of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine 
Notre Dame ; many Roman antiquities here ; Palace of 
Justice, with room much like Westminster Hall in 
"London. The English held this town 300 years. 4M, 
from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince 
defeated the French under John, in 1356, 

Orleans and Touts, see pages 197-198. 

Two of the most celebrated of French summer- 
resorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are 
easily reached from Lyons. 

Vichy {Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; Du Cherbourg . 
Du Pare ; Des Princes; Mombrun; De Richelieu; D\ 
Louvre) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley 
enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most 
popular watering-place in France. Wonderful cures oi 
gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. Bath- 
ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old 
town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is 
striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the 
old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish- 
ment, and at the other the Casino. 

Aix-les-Bains {Grand Hotel d'Aiz ; De V Europe > 
Bernascon et Regina ; Du Centre ; International; 
Du JSford et Grande Bretagne) is a very popular 
watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery ; 9 sul- 
phur springs here effect important cures. See Roman 
remains ; Casino, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful ex- 
cursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Abbey of 
Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of 
Savoy ; to the Nivolet; to the Mollard Car den; to 
the Cascade; to Gresy; and to the Annecy. 



COPENHAGEN. 441 



A TOUR IN THE NORTH. 

FROM Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), 
you may, if time permits, make a tour of great 
interest in the North. We will for the present con- 
tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton 
routes for a short journey through portions of Den- 
mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begin 
your trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From 
Hamburg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is 
3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 5 
hrs. ; and from Korsor it is 2| hrs. to Copenhagen. 
Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to 
Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 12| hrs. (fares, 
38 k. 95 6., 21 k. 10 5.). 

Practical Information. — The money in Denmark, 
Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.) and 
ore, or 0re (6.). There are 100 6. in 1 k. ; 90 6re=l shil- 
ling. — Steamboat schedules are frequently altered: 
remember this in making plans. — ■ The best season for 
travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep- 
ternber. — For a journey to the North Cape, select June 
or July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Norway 
should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex- 
cellent Guide du, Voyageur, published in Stockholm, for 
detailed trips. 

Copenhagen {jPhmnix ; King of Denmark; D'An- 
gleterre; Monopol; Dagmar; National), 409,000 inh., 
stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed 
in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenade 
The panorama of batteries, clocks, stores, and arsenals, 
as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E. 



442 COPENHAGEN, 

part of the harbor is protected by the Castle of 
Frederihshavn. Part of the city is built on the smail 
Island of Amager, and is called C hristianshavn. 
The channel between the two islands forms the 
port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces 
and public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may well be 
spent in inspecting the art collections. The royal 
residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg, the 
chief house of the royal family, consists of four 
small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the 
king's; the second is the Foreign Office; the third 
contains state apartments; the fourth pertains to 
the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick V, 
in the square. The Royal Chapel faces the ruins of 
the Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1884. 
The handsome 3-towered Gothic Rosenborg Castle 
is in the centre of the King's garden. There see 
Chronological collection of the Danish Kings — - 
rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics 
of his life and deeds. The Audience Chamber of 
Christian IV, ; the golden cups ; the bedroom in 
■which Christian IV. died, in 1648 ; the Marble 
Hall ; the beautiful room called the Rose ; and 
the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities. 
Observatory near this palace. Frederiksberg Pal- 
'ace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beau- 
tiful park. Zoological Gardens near by. In the 
Vor-Frue-Kirhe (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculp- 
tures by Thorwaldsen ; and in an alcove his coffin 
was placed at the funeral, while the royal family 
stood bareheaded round it„ See Thorwaldsen's Bap- 
tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — the Baptism of 
Christ and the Last Supper. The Art Museum con- 
tains a fine collection of modern Danish paintings 
and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), and also a num- 
ber by older artists, being especially rich in examples 
of the Rembrandt school. The Old Gflyptotheh and 
the New Glyptotheh contain very valuable collections 
ei: ancient and modern sculpture respectively. 



COPENHAGEN. 44S 

The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Thorwald- 
sen's JIuseum, built by subscription to contain casts 
of all his works and many originals (daily. 11-3; on 
Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat. adm. 50 6.; catalogues at 
hotels and museum). Here also is the tomb of the 
great sculptor, in the Prindsens-Palais is the Na- 
tional Museum, containing the Danish Collection 
(prehistoric and historic) of northern antiquities, the 
Ethnographic Collection, and the Collection of An- 
tiquities* Open daily, except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3. 
Visitors should see the Arsenal, close to the Chris- 
tiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Royal Library 
(550,000 vols.) close by, Beautiful new equestrian 
statue in bronze opposite the palace. 

The Exchange, the Museum of Natural History, the 
University, Library, the Ch. of the Trinity, with its 
famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count 
Moltke's collection of pictures (Wed., 12-2), and the 
pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc- 
cupied for a week. — Near Copenhagen is Charlottett- 
lund, a country house, inhabited in summer by some 
member of the royal family. Pretty drives hereabouts. 
Trolley to Deer Park, royal preserve, filled with vast 
herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer; and to Hurt- 
holm, where once stood a superb palace built by Chris* 
tian VI. Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where 
the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided. 

Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinor* 
(Oresund Hotel), 30 M, from Copenhagen, easily 
readied by rail in fifty minutes. The Castle and 
the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of 
the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on & 
terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the 
£rave of Hamlet (see Murray's " Denmark ") . Hamlet's 
identification with this spot is founded on very sh'ghi 



444 ELSINORE. - MALMO. \ 

proof. Near Elsinore is Ourre, a famous residence of 
many Danish kings. Roeshilde was the most impor- 
tant town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence 
from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is 
the finest building of its kind in Denmark. On the 
so-called ' ' Kings' Column " in this cathedral are cut 
in the stone the records of the heights of many royal 
personages, including Peter the Great and Edward 
VII. In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chron- 
icler, is buried. 

From Elsinore it is not far to Fredensborg, where 
the Danish Royal Family has its reunions. Carriage 
drive thence (1 hour, 4 k.) to castle of Fredrichsborg, 
built by Christian II in 1620. Here is interesting 
historical museum (daily, 9.30-4 and 5-7, 1 k.). Five 
mm. to Hillerod {Hotel Leidersdorf), whence railway 
in 1 hr. back to Copenhagen. 

From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish 
to visit Norway can go by steamer four times daily 
in 1£ hrs. (16 M.) to Malmo (Kramer's Motel; 
Horn), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. 
in sixteen hrs. (one through express daily; fares, 
52 k. 5 6., 35 k„ 65 6.) to the Swedish capital, 
Stockholm, Malmo (55,000 inhab.) was during the 
Hanseatic period the chief commercial town on the 
Sound 3othwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was 
imprisoned in the castle here, 1573-78. Charles XV. 
died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through 
£mn& {Stadshuset ; Grand Hotet) t where is the finest 
cathedral in Scandinavia, founded in the 11th century. 
£fee old University buildings here ; and near the Cathe- 
dral a Statue of Tegner, who composed many of his 
poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. 
Linkoping {Stora Hotellet) also has a noble ch., built 
1150-1499. Notice NorrMping. »ear Stockholm. 



GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. - 445 



NORWAY. 

One may go from Copenhagen to Christian ia by 
sea (semi-weekly steamers touching at Gothenburg). 
The fares are low, but the boats are small and not 
always clean, and the sea is very rough; time, 36 hrs. 
The best way is to go by rail via Elsinore (ferry 40 
min.) ; time, 19 hours. 

Gothenburg (Haglund's; Got a Kallare; cPAngle- 
terre) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of 
125,000 inh. , on the Gotaelf. Excellent harbor, rarely 
closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg 
was during the continental blockade, when it formed 
the depot of English trade with Northern Europe. 
The Exchange, the Toivn Hall, the Christina kyrka, the 
Statue of Gust avus Adolphus, the Museum (open daily), 
the Slottsshog Park, with fine view, and the pretty 
garden of the Horticultural Society with hothouse 
and exotic plants near the Wallgraf, comprise the 
chief features of the town. Those who wish to go 
from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can 
do so (Tues., Fri., Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.). 

Christiania (Grand; Victoria; Skandinavie; Bri- 
tannia; Boulevard), the capital of Norway, has 200,000 
tnhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburg, 
etc.. land their passengers on the two quays near the 
Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 6. ; 
cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 6.) Christiania is charm- 
ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was 
founded by (and named for) Christian IV is. 
1624. The city has taken on new life and greater 
importance since the establishment of Norway 
as an independent kingdom. The University, 
National Picture Gallery, Observatory, and Royal 
Palace will occupy the attention for a day. E. of the 



446 CHRISTIANIA AND SUBURBS. 

market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, consecrated in 
1697, restored, in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous 
Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical 
dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, 
the Freemasons' Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many 
centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other. 
The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 
1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who 
was signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian 
naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the ram- 
parts. See the Mdsvolds Plads, the pretty square 
planted with trees, E. of which is the Parliament Edifice. 
This has a handsome facade, flanked with granite lions 
(fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. 
The National Gallery (Sunday, Tuesday, Wednes- 
day, Thursday, Friday, 12-3, free; at other times, fee) 
was founded in 1837, and contains 400 pictures. 
The Trinity Ch., the Gamle Akers Kirke, — the oldest 
ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, ■ — the 
monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor- 
wegian poets, and tks view from St. John's Hill should 
not be forgotten. <n the University, founded 1S11, 
there are numerous collections of interest. It has 1,000 
students, and a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal 
Palace is a large plain edifice, with handsome portico, 
on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, the 
Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are beautifully 
adorned. In front is an equestrian Statue of Charles 
XIV. The Historical Museum contains a very in- 
teresting collection of coins, Viking ships, etc. The 
Norsk Folks Museum (daily except Wed. and Sat.) 
and the Art Industrial Museum (daily except Sat.) 
are the only other important sights. 

Suburbs. — See Oscarshall (tickets and information 
free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in 
1847, with works of Swedish and Norwegian artists. 



THRONDHJEM. 447 

Noble view from the roof. Take trolley (50 6.) to 
Holmenkollen ; good restaurant and fine view. Also 
visit the Ekeberg. 

There is direct steam communication between Ohm- 
tiania and Hull, 3 days ; London, 4 days ; Havre, 
4 days; Hamburg, 36 hrs. ; Lubeck, 48 hrs. ; ad 
twice a mouth to New York. 

Brief Excursions in Norway. 

Creneral Notes. — On all the fjords, and along the 
coast of Norway, there are excellent steamboat lines, and 
travel in this way is comparatively cheap. The food is 
usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid tem- 
perance laws of Norway make it impossible to obtain spirits 
on the steamboats or at raoet of the principal railway restau- 
rants. On the lakes there is usually a service 3 times a day. 
All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes ; 
and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than in 
the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords, 
if the traveller be prudent enough to look out for his relays 
of horses. It is only on the most frequented routes that 
one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey. 
The driver generally takes care of himself and his horses for 
a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 3 or 4 persons, with bag- 
gage. The relay service is very well arranged, and there 
will be no occasion for complaint if you always send a tele- 
gram ahead. The charges for the horses and carriages are 
by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowers 
also work for a fixed tariff. The amount of baggage is also 
determined by regulation. 

Throndhjem {Britannia; d? Angleterre ; Grand; 
Scandinavie), the ancient Nidaros, and the third city 
in Norway, has 34,000 inhab. Here Norwegian kings 
were crowned in the Middle Ages. Formerly the capi- 
tal of the kingdom; and its cathedral (open daily, free, 
12-1), the finest in the North, was onc^ a great resort 



448 BERGEN. — HAMMEEFEST. 

for pilgrims. It is built of a bluish chlorite slate, with 
which the marble columus form an admirable contrast. 
In the 11th and 12th centuries this ch. was the burial-, 
place of the kings ; and here Charles XIV., Oscar I., 
Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may 
go from Christiania to Throndhjem by rail, but the jour- 
ney is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route, 
or the steamboat voyage around the coast. 

From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite excursion. 
On the Strandefjord is the noted Fagerntes Hotel, a 
great resort for tourists, Bergen (Holdtfs; Norge; 
Smeby) is on a hilly peninsula and isthmus, with 
handsome high mts. in the background. The town 
(70,000 inhab.) was founded by King Olaf in 1070, on 
the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles 
have been fought in its neighborhood. See Bergenhus, 
Ny guards Park, and Fishmarket (on Wed. and Sat., 
8-10 A.M.) The Museums have very good collections. 
The best view of the town is from the Floifjeld, N.E. 
of the harbor. The overland route from Bergen to 
M.olde is interesting for leisurely tourists. 

Another good excursion is from Christiania to Kongs- 
berg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Har danger fjord, and to 
Bergen. Still another is from Christiania to Vadsb y 
along the coast. From Vadso, those who have time 
may push on to Hammerfest (Jansen's Hotel), the 
most northern city in the world. It is built along the 
shores of a little bay, protected by a peninsula from 
the fury of the N. winds. Froir- a mountain in the 
neighborhood there is an extensive view over the 
glaciers of Sejland and Soro. Hence travellers can 
usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those 
who wish to visit the North Cape should remember 
that the sole attraction of the journey consists in the 
bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer 



STOCKHOLM 449 

usually leases Hamburg on Monday morning, arriving 
at Vadso Wednesday afternoon and at Hammerfest 
on Saturday evening. 

SWEDEN. 

You may go by rail direct from Christian ia to Stock- 
holm, in 5 hours to Charlottenberg on the Swedish 
frontier, thence in about 14 hours to Stockholm; 
through express trains without change in 17 hours 
(fares, 43 k. «>5 6., 33 k. 50 6. ; on slow trains a little 
less ; sleeping cars 5 k. and 3 k. extra) . 

Stockholm ( Grand Hotel; Rydberg; Rung Karl; 
Kung Karls Annex; Continental; in the old town, 
Oslergotland) . Good restaurants in principal hotels. 
In the southern fauborg, Peligan ; fine view over 
Stockholm ani its environs. Good music at Blanch's 
Cafe, Bern's Salon'ger, and the Stromparterre 
every evening. The principal bank, Rihsbanken, 
at Jern Torgct. Population, -307,000. Sea com- 
munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Am- 
sterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux and 
Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Taxo- 
meter cabs, 1-2 persons, 50 6. per kilometre, each ad- 
ditional Yi kilometre 10 6. ; trunk from rly. station 
20 6 ; fares higher after 11 p.m. Trip to suburbs at 
moderate rates. There is an excellent electric tram- 
car system (10 o.) The capital of Sweden is situated 
on tne banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into 
the Baltic Sea. and occupies two peninsulas and many 
islands, joined by handsome bridges. Old travelers 
say that Stockholm's situation is- the most beauti- 
ful in Europe, afb'r that of Constantinople. The 
city is divided into six parts: the St a den, or 
city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Rid- 
darholmen, and Helgeaudsholmen, the narrowest 
Mid least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most 



450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM. 

animated, and the commercial centre; Norrmalm, the 
N. section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladugdrds- 
landet, a quarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; 
Kungsholmen (King's Island) ; Sodermalm, the S. fau- 
bourg; and Saltsj'6-Oarne, composed of four islands. 
The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which 
it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme, 
island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic 
legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Fine 
views from the Mosebacke ; from Kastellholmen ; from 
the Observatory ; from the Tower of Jacob's Ch. j from 
Bystr'om's Villa ; and from the Tivoli. 

Principal Sights. — In the city Staden: the Royal 
Palace, — burned in 1697, and rebuilt in 1753, — one of 
the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction 
of lake and sea. Vast panorama from the terrace; 
View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the 
majestic mountains, forests, and green plains. Cost of 
palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. fapade and the Gus- 
tavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejonsbacken, a stair- 
case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front 
portico is decorated with the Swedish arms, — 3 bronze 
crowns, supported by a figure of Renown. The S., W., 
and E. fa9ades have beautiful works of art. The chapel, 
128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns 
and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured 
and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Evan- 
gelists, — the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece 
represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 
143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne 
given to Queen Christina by Magnus Gabriel ; and 
statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIV. by Bystrom. 
Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of 
the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the 
palace is visible all the year ; small fee. See the cere- 



STOCKHOLM. , 451 

monial halls where great festivals are held : Audience 
Chamber ; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent cande- 
labra, 29 ft. high ; two porcelains : lied Room, where 
Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here) : great 
gallery, 162 ft. long; wonderful collection of sculp- 
tures ; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de- 
voted to pictures of battles ; a second gallery and two 
rooms devoted to allegories of Peace : Festival Hall, — 
sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly painted 
ceilings Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, and 
the present king's and queen's apartments : Library 
very rich; Museum of Armour and Costumes, a good 
collection. On the great square, S= of the palace, 
is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the 
fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the war 
of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port, 
statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the 
. Church of St. Nicholas, founded m 1260 or 1264, 
reconstructed 1726-43, restored 1892; a spire 308 ft. 
high; interior divided into 5 naves by rows of columns; 
altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the 
birth of the Saviour ; organ one of the largest in Swe- 
den ; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and 
candelabra; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo- 
site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is the House 
of the Governor of Stockholm, built by Tessin, the most 
celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. 
In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of 
Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — the execu- 
tion of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christian 
II., King of Denmark, wiio was seeking to extend 
his rule over Sweden. — took place. Here is the 
Bourse, buiit in 1766= fine halls in the first story. 
Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. 
high,, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; 
injured by fire in 1878, but restored. Here also is 



452 



STOCKHOLM. 



the Knights House (1648), one of the finest palaces in 
Stockholm ; noble staircase ; walls decorated with the 
arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavus 
Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniver- 
sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The 
courts of justice and other nublic buildings are not fat 
away. At Skeppsbro, the port, are the telegraph office 
and the Custom House. The Scandinavian Credit 
Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The 
Gothic Ch. of the Knights' Island {Riddarholms-Kyrkar^ 
is on the Riddarholmen Island, to the W. of the Eques- 
trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Eraueiscan 
convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was 
reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, 
and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a 
mausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de. 
scription). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus 
dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 
1686-1743), with marble sarcophagus of Charles XII. 
Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick, 
and many others. Ch. open Tues. and Thurs. (also 
Sat. in summer) 12-2 p.m. ; fee, 25 6. On the 
Riddarhoiin are also the Royal Courts of Justice, the 
Chamber of Deputies, t he Roy a I Archives, and the Statue 
of Birger jar I. Go by the great northern bridge — ■ 
380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Helgeands- 
holmen, with its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal 
stables. 

In the N. section ( Norrmalm) is the Gustavus Adol- 
phus Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re- 
liefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., 
Palace of the Crown Prince. Opposite is Royai Opera 
House, erected on site of theatre where Gustavus HI. 
was killed by Ankarstrom. E. , near this square, is the 



STOCKHOLM. 453 

Jacob's Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with sculp- 
tures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. 
To the E. is the Charles XII. Place, with statue of Charles 
XII. To the N., the promenade called the King's Garden^ 
statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near 
by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father 
of chemical science. E. of the Charles XII. Place is the 
National Museum (open daily except Mon., 11-3; Sun., 1-3). 
On the ground floor is the Historical Museum, founded in 
the 17th century, and one of the largest of its kind. The 
Hall of the Middle Ages is especially interesting. On the 
first floor are collections of furniture and house decora- 
tions, ceramics, and sculpture, the last of unusual merit. 
On the upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the 
Italian, German, Flemish, Spanish, French, Swedish, 
Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well repre- 
sented. From the National Museum, an iron bridge leads 
to the Skeppsliolm, an island on which are the Karl- 
Johanskyrka, the Naval Academy, and the Naval Arsenal. 
The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Red Shop 
Square. The Clara-Kyrka (1285; burned 1751; rebuilt 
1753 ; restored 1893) is very interesting. At Kungsholmen 
are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. 
Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far 
away is the principal military school. There are many 
other interesting things in the city quarter (see local 
guides). The Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the 
cemetery of the latter, Yon Dobeln, one of the heroes of 
the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two 
principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents' and 



454 UPSALA. 

Queen Street,—- in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Drott- 
ninggatan. The Academy of Science, the Natural 
History Museum, the Technological Institute, the Min- 
ing School, and the Observatory are all in this quarter. 

In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery 
Square and a ch. founded in 1658, remarkable for its 
acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 
vols., founded under Charles IX (open free every week- 
day, 10-3). In the Sodermalm, or S. faubourg, is the 
Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory 
of that king. Here also, in the Hormgatan, 43, is the 
house which Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina- 
Kyrka is on the spot where the victims of the Battle 
of Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Soder- 
malm (elevator). The environs of Stockholm are 
noted for their beauty, especially during the wonder- 
fully clear nights of June and July. The Carlberg 
and Drottningholm should be visited, and especially 
the Djurgard, a beautiful park on an island 2 M. 
long. At the W. end of this island is the Northern 
Museum, a large collection of Scandinavian curios- 
ities. Here nearly every evening in summer popular 
dances in national costume are given accompanied by 
national music. No one should fail to' see them. 

Upsala (Stads-Hotellet ; Svea;- gooa restaur- 
ants), the most, famous university town in Sweden 
(20,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop 
and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the 
Eyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly 
called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided 
at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical 
and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical 
associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the 
Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu- 
resque height. The chief curiosities are the Burial 
Chapel of Ghistavns Vasa (at the back of the choir) , 
and the tomb of Linnaeus, the great botanist. 



ABO. — HELSINGFORS. 455 

N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said to have 
burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. 
The Gh. of the Trinity has many handsome monuments, 
The University was founded in 1477. Many of its 
edifices are very striking in architecture. The library 
building is especially fine. The Library contains 200,000 
vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla- 
tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating 
from the second half of the 4th century. The House oj 
Linnceus is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see 
monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu- 
dents at the University. Numerous charming excur- 
sions in the neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from 
Upsala to Qefie by rail in 3J- hrs, (6 k. 85 6., 
4 k. 60 6.) e On the way you may see the Castle, 
which was fortified by Gustavns Vasa, and where 
Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his insanity. 

We will not attempt to give other excursions in 
Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next to pro- 
ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg. 

EUSSIA. 

Steamers sail 3 times a week in summer from Stock- 
holm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stopping at Abo, 
the old capital of Finland, taken from the Swedes in 
1809 by the Russians ; Helsingfors, one of the strong- 
est of naturally fortified harbors ; and Vyborg, taken 
from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The 
beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the 
steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant 
pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number. 
Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland, 
the dome of St. Isaac's Ch. in St. Petersburg is dis- 
tinctly visible On the Way up, the steamer passes 



456 ST. PETERSBUEG. 

Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval station. 
It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the solid 
rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were 
begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have beer 
greatly strengthened since. The approaching seaward 
is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink- 
ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day 
from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Peter- 
hof, Strelna, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien- 
baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown 
from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a magnificent 
view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond, 
under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer- 
able articles of vertu, tapestries, marbles, porcelains, 
malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures 
of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50 
Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain 
called the Samson. There are two small palaces near 
here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in 
that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alex- 
andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and 
Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, 
are in this neighborhood. 

St. Petersburg (Hotel d' Angleterre ; Be Pussie ; 
DemoutKs ; Be France ; (T Europe) is the capital of the 
Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official 
world and the centre of Russian society must always 
possess a certain interest for the traveler (1,500,000 
inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to 
visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. 
The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau- 
tiful, and the tieat is never so intense as in some parts 
of North America. Of course, the social world is not so 
eay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 
2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this. 



ST. PETERSBURG. 457 

The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, 
and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice 
aforethought ; for the energetic monarch set it down 
among the marshes through which the river Neva wan- 
ders towards the sea. On the islands in the channels 
of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. 
The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public 
buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. bank of the 
Neva. St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent 
city, although the contrasts between squalor and great 
splendor are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree- 
able impression. When the town was building, under 
Peter the Great, 40.000 or 50,000 peasants were em- 
ployed for years in filling up the marshes. It was the 
Empress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay 
along the Neva's 1. bank. The river has overflowed many 
times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the 
early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or- 
dinary tourist will find that the difficulties concerning 
passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly 
exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihilist he will not be 
much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en- 
tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel 
proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on 
leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, 
the Admiralty being the principal one. Prom the Ad- 
miralty three great streets branch off. They are called 
the Vosnessensky ; the Gorokhovaia, ending at the Champs 
de Mars ; and the famous Nevsky Prospect, where are 
the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and 
public buildings. 

The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky 
Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in 
1811, is the metropolitan church of St, Petersburg. It 
is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name 



458 ST. PETERSBURG. 

from an image of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- 
cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade, 
with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb ; 
shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served 
in wars of 1813-14 ; images before which lamps are al- 
ways kept burning ; flags, arms, and standards, taken in 
battle ; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay de Toll? 
in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used in 
the service, but great pains are taken to secure good 
voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. The For- 
tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul contains 
in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia 
since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. 
(buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice 
is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint. 
The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun- 
dreds of flags are suspended along the walls. 

The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Peters- 
burg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the 
Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. 
The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor- 
tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white 
marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Pine 
view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admission 
by tickets procured from chief of palace police ; fee), 
built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, stands on the r. bank 
of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this 
building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which 
finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881. 
The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly 
ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre- 
cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's Day 
by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- 
dor's Staircase on the Neva ; also the magnificent flight 
of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments, 



ST. PETERSBURG. 459 

The Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White 
Room, St. George's Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallery, 
the Alexander Hall, the Halls of Battles (in which are 
paintings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber, the 
Empress's Winter Garden, and the Romanoff Gallery 
are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the 
latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a 
tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress 
Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Her- 
mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and 
sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats). See 
also room in which Emperor Nicholas died. The Her- 
mitage (open daily except Fri. and holidays, 11-4), close 
to Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, 
and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum contains 
1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some 
by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, 
and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en- 
graved stones, and designs by masters. 

The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, the 
Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive 
buildings. The Russian Museum of Alexander III 
(open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4) contains good collection 
of modern art. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with 
facade ^ M. long. Near it are the great dockyards, the 
headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The 
Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many 
relics of the famous monarch, is near the citndel. 

The Imperial Library, containing 400,000 vols., is 
near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are 
those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and 
the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. This monastery is 
one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded 
by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, 
who conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The 
museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion 



460 MOSCOW 

of the superb building near the Admiralty. The 
Asiatic Museum is rich in Eastern antiquities. The 
Romanoff Museum, that attached to the Mining 
School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian 
Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the 
government expense, are all of large size. The 
Marien (opera and ballet), Alexander ( Russian drama 
and comedy), and Michael (French) are the best. 
The monuments are nearly all good. Those most 
worthy of attention are the Equestrian Statue of 
Peter the Great, -with a prancing horse balanced on 
its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of 
Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high, 
weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. 
The Summer (Jar dens, 1 M. long and -£- mile wide, 
beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which. 
Peter the Great occasionally lived, A day excursion 
should be made to Tsarskoye Selo, where the emperor 
resides in the spring and autumn. 

It is lOli M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The 
rly. carriages are much like those of America in model. 
The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons 
excellent and fares reasonable. First-class express 
to Moscow, 24 roubles; second, 17 roubles. The 
principal town on the way is Tver, at the confluence 
of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity 
Church. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni- 
Novgorod, and thence to Astrahan. 

Moscow (National, Slavianski Bazaar, CJiev- 
rier, d'Angleterre)^ or Holy Moscow, as the Russians 
call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the 
residence of the Emperors, is situated on the 
Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great 
fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town 
in Europe, and to-day it remains original and pic- 
turesque in a striking degree. A good view may be 
had from Sparrow Hill (by carriage, about 7 r.) In 
the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M. 



MOSCOW. 461 

in circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenals, and 
museums. Here the Tartar architecture predominates. 
An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the 
perusal of Theophile Gautier's lively and sparkling book 
on a " Winter in Russia." The Redeemer s Gate and the 
Gate of St. Nicholas are objects of great veneration among 
Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass- 
ing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Krem- 
lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de- 
stroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of 
wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one 
is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex- 
ander Nevskg, and Sts. Andrew and Catherine, and the 
Banqueting Hall, as well as the Terem, which contains 
a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the 
terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos- 
cow when he came there as conqueror, are among the 
Kremlin's chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Re- 
deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral 
Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in 
1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many sacred treasures here. 
In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The 
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many 
tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is 
where the czars are baptized ; is rich with relics. The 
jewels m all Russian chs. are worth studying. House 
of the Synod, Treasury (open free week days ex. Sat., 
Derm it at the chamberlain's office), and Arsenal will 
furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The Tower of 
loan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 
ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 
64 tons. When all these bells are rung together at 
Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot, of this tower 
is the vast Tsar Kolokol, or Monarch of Bells It once 
hung in a tower (burned in 1737) ; weighs 444,000 
lbs. ; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of 



462 NIJM-NOVGOKOD. — ODESSA. 

the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. Outside the 
Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by 
Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil, built in 
1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iberian 
Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great 
Riding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in 
Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The pigeon 
being looked upon as sacred by the Russians, thousands 
of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow, 
S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial 
family. The Tretyakoff Gallery of modern Russian 
art (open daily ex. Mon., 10-4, free) is worth a visit. 

It is 27 If M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod. 
Tourists pressed for time can take night tram there, 
spend the day at Nijni, and return the next night. 

Nijni-Novgorod (Be Russie, Egoroff's), a city of 
75,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an- 
nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo- 
ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come 
into close contact with the Western merchants and vis- 
itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and 
the Volga. The Kremlin is on a bank overhanging the 
Volga. The transactions at the fair amount annually 
to $80,000,000. 

From Moscow to Odessa (40| hrs. ; fare, 32 r. 1st 
class, 20 r. 2d class) the route passes through Kieff. 

Odessa (De Londres, De St. Petersbourg) was 
founded in Catherine II.'s reign. It is an important 
commercial port, with 250, 000 inhab. ; but there is 
little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral, 
a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the 
University. Steamers (poor) leave Odessa twice a 
week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of 
the Crimean war may easily be visited. There is also 
steam communication with Constantinople. 



TABLE OF CLIMATIC HEALTH B* JORTS, MIN- 
ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AND HYDRO, 
PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Tunes and railway fares are calcalnl'i I from Paris. 

Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs from Paris ; fare, 48 fr.).— 
Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to )20° I'. For skiu dis- 
eases, rheumatism, chrouic diseases of the nervous centres, 
neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies. 

Aix-les-Bains (14 £• hrs.; 71 fr. 60 c). — Sulphurous 
hot springs, 112° to 114° F. Have a world-wide reputa- 
tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chronic catarrh 
of the neck of the womb, ameuorrhoea, metritis, syphilis, 
bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyngitis, wounds 
by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year. 

Am^lie-les-Bains (24f hrs.; 120i fr.). — Sulphurous 
sodaic waters, 71° to 172° F., and winter station. Herpetic 
diathesis, and catarrhal affections. All the year. 

Arcachon (10 hrs. ; 78 fr. 70 c). — Winter station, 
and sea baths. For invalids requiring a sedative air ; for 
delicate, lymphatic, and ansemic persons ; nervous complaints ; 
<;hest and lung affections ; scrofula ; gout. Winter season, 
from Nov. till June ; summer, from May till Oct. 

Aulus (24 J hrs.; 119 fr.). — Alkaline waters, 48° F. 
"Purgative, laxative, and diuretic action,, according to dose, 
in diseases of the liver, in arthritic auctions, and iu syphilis. 

Baden (27 hrs. ; 152^ fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 82° to 
•'5° F. For rheumatism, gout, amemia, and scrofula (espe- 
cially of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year. 

Baden-Baden (16 hrs. , 6S fr.). — Alkaline chloride 
$f sodium waters. 110° to 150° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout, 
and kindred complaints ; ailments dependent on malaria, 
a^d eertaia skin diseases ; chronic rheumatism ; wounds, frac- 
tures of the bonss, scrofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain 
kiAaev affections, anreinia. May to Oct. and all the year. 



464 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

Bagnfcres-de-Bigorre (22 Iii-s. ; 105 fr.). — Saline, 
sulphurous, ferruginous, and arsenical waters, 72° to 120° F. 
For tuberculosis, affections of the respiratory organs, intes- 
tines, and urinary system, anaemia, and female disorders. 
June to Sept., baths; Nov. to Mav, winter station. 

Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65* c). — Saline, sulphurous, 
lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of 
the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor- 
osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c. 

Bareges (2 H hrs.; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous 
waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones, 
herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15. 

Biarritz' (19i his. ; 96 fr. 80 c). — Sea-bathing and 
winter station. For chlorosis, anaemia, chest and lung com- 
plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May. 

Bourbon-l'Archambault (6| hrs. ; 40 fr. 75 c). — 
Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicarbonate 
ferruginous maguesian waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gase- 
ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections. 

Bourboule (La) (13i hrs. ; 60 fr.). — Effervescent 
saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per 
litre), 140° F. For anaemia, lymphatism, general debility, 
affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, 
and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30. 

Cannes (201: hrs.; 130 fr.). — Winter station of first 
importance; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea; 
sedative towards Le Canuet. Sea baths in spring; season, 
Oct. to May. For nervous debility, anaemia, phthisis, laryn. 
gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes. 

Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous manga- 
nese waters, 45° F. ; climatic station. For debility of the 
male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections 
of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept. 

Castellamare di Stabia (50^ hrs.; 248 fr.). — Sea 
baths; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chary = 
beate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen, 
affections of the mesenteric elands, biliary and '"isical calc»-&. 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 465 

jaundice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, 
catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal- 
culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the 
uterus, leucorrhcea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing, May to 
Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April. 

Cauterets (21! hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c). — Sulphate of 
soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory 
organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula. 

Contrexeville ^10 hrs. ; 514 fr-). — Effervescent alka- 
line, slightly ferruginous waters, 55° F. Especially for 
gravel, biliary and vesical calculi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, 
and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary svstem, affec- 
tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept. 

Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c). — ■ Hyperthermal mixed sul- 
phurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, muscular, 
or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses. 

Dieppe (4 hrs.; 20 fr, 65 c). — Much-frequented sea- 
bathing and summer resort. 

Divorme-les-Bains (15| hrs. ; 81 fr.). — Cold water 
springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheu- 
matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu- 
ralgia, hypochondria, neuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh, 
dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly- 
sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female 
'"Vrders. 

Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline 
and alkaline waters, 90° F. For angina pectoris, and laryn- 
gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleu- 
ritis, ansemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept. 

Ems (16i hrs.; 71 fr. 15 c). — Saline alkaline and sa- 
line earthy, 65° to 110° F. These waters act on the lungs 
and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct. 

Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c). — Cold sulphurous and 
lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs, 
herpes, and rheumatism. 

Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre- 
quented resort for sea-bathins in summer. 



466 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

£3vian-les-Bains (13 hrs.; 82 fr. 80 c). — Alkaline 
waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the uri- 
nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus. 

Geneva (14 hrs. ; 77 fr.): — Milk cure. "Bathers from 
Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure. 

Gorbersdorf (39 hrs. ; 1072 fr.). — Noted for its moun- 
taiu-air cure, in affections of the respiratory organs. Anae- 
mia and chlorosis are also treated. 

Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate ; winter station j 
Oct. to June. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis, 
nervous affections, anseniia, chlorosis. 

Hombmrg-les-Bains (1 8 hrs. 40 min. ; 86 fr. 69 c). 
• — Saline, ferruginous, and ac"* 'kilo us waters. For dyspepsia 
scrofula, and auaeihia. 

Hyeres (20 hrs.; 117 ir.). — Winter season, Nov. t« 
June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the larynx 
chest, and lungs, scrofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism. 

Interlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c). — Climatic station 
in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure. 

Ischia (59| hrs. ; 288i fr.).' — Alkali -saline waters, 
145° F. For uterine affections, rheumatism, diseases of the 
bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn. 

Ischl (23f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c). — A climatic summer 
station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters ; 
whey cure ; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous 
baths ; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths ; inhala- 
tion. Recommended for nervous affections. 

Karlsbad (32 hrs.; 137 ff.). — Poly metallic waters, 
125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com- 
plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c. 

Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 min. ; 106 fr.). — Cold saline 
waters, strongly mineralized ; tonic and excitant. Especially 
suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions. 

Kreuznach (13| hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- 
line waters. F orscrofulous -affections, diseases of the ears,. 
respiratory organs, bones, and joints, all female and sidn 
disease? ,ad in chronic affections generally. May to Oct. 



MINEKAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 467 

Lausanne (151 hrs. ■ 64 fr. 20 c). — Climatic station 
in summ . r and autumn ; bracing air and grape cure. 

Loeche-les-Bains (30 his.: 100 fr.). — Various 
springs ; hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma, 
herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, rheumatism, chronic 
bronchitis, inveterate syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30. 

Luchon (191 hrs. ;' 103* fr.). — Upwards of fifty differ- 
ent springs, mineralized by hydro-sulphuric acid; also ferru- 
ginous md alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bionchial 
and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept. 

Iiuxeuil (11| hrs. ; 60 fr. ). — Saline, ferruginous, and 
magnesiau waters ; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They 
are first excitant, then sedative ; and good in cases of neural- 
gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c. 

Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis- 
bon ; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended 
for pulmonary complaints ; climate delightful ; no winter. 

Mentone (24| hrs.; 139 fr.). —Winter station of first 
importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases 
and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter 
season, November to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. 

Monaco (24| hrs.; 138 fr.). — Monte Carlo is the 
favorite winter resort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most 
sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths ; May to Oct. 

Mont-Dore(ll hrs.; 64i fr.). — Bicarbonate, arsen- 
ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. 
For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ; 
ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorders of 
the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1. 

Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c). — The great variety of 
mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered 
this delightful city and its environs the most frequented bath- 
ing station in Italv. Sea baths. 

Nice (22 hrs.;* 134 fr. 20 c.). — Winter station of first 
importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and 
respiratory organs : affections of the larynx,, liver complaints, 
disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheiu. atism. 



468 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

paralysis, debility. "Winter season, Nov. to Jnne ; sea-bathing 
season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March. 

Ostend (14 hrs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.) — Sea baths. Sandy 
beach and bracing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1. 

Palermo (664 hrs.; 239i fr.). —Winter station ; sea 
baths. Season. Nov. to April ; bathing season, May to O^t. 

Pau (17i hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im- 
portance. For chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory 
a'ction and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatism, 
neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31. 

Pierrefonds (2i hrs. : 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of 
lime spring ; one ferruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarrh. 

Plombieres (11 hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs rangs 
from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpes,, 
nervous debility, hysteria. 

Pougues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c). — Mixed bicarbonate 
ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs. 

Preste (La) (23J hrs. ; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa- 
ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105 9 F. 

Fuiliia. — No treatment at Piillua itself; the waters are 
exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme- 
dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, 
congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorder*, 
obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gastritis. 

Pyrmont (18 hrs.; 84 fr. 30c). — Chalybeate springs 
of importance an I much renown ; effervescent saline waters, 
brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially 
ansemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal catarrhs, 
obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1. 

Re'coaro (34f hrs.; 139| fr.). — Alkaline, acidulated 
ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil- 
ity, female diseases, obesity, anaemia, chlorosis, gravel and 
vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- 
orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May to Sept. 

Rome (49| hrs.; 201 fr. 90 c.). — Winter station of 
first importance. Foi debility and scrofula in children, 
ehronic catarrh of rh% bronchi, arnphysema. The climate is 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 469 

sedative to the nervos and respiratory organs ; out patients 
should first consult their doctor. Oct. to May. 

Rorschach. — Climatic statiou in summer; baths in 
the lake ; Turkish baths , very pure and equable atmosphere. 

Roy at (9J hrs. ; 51f fr.). — ■ Four springs : mixed alka- 
line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsenical and lithic 
waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anamria, 
chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis- 
eases dependent on a gouty diathesis. 

St. Galmier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France. 

St Moritz (34 hrs. ; 130 fr. 60 c). — Climatic moun- 
tain-air statiou. Two ferruginous springs, very cold and 
very effervescina;. For phthisis. 

St. Raphael (19.i hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta- 
tion and sea baths ; summer, May 1 to Nov. 1 ; winter, 
Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula, 
lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes, 
rheumatism, gout, emphysema, ansema, and chlorosis. 

San Remo. — Winter station of first importance ; la- 
tent scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal 
catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu- 
dations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease 3 
diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May. 

Saxon (18 hrs.; 73 fr. 55 c). — Bromo-iodurated sa- 
line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scrofula, and gout. 

Scheveiiingen (15i hrs.; 67 fr. 70 c). — Very well 
frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands. 

Schinznach (17 hrs.; 72 fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 
rich in sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid, u^o in 
chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic 
skin diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &c, scrofula, chronic 
catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, r 1 ~umatism, gout, 
syphilis, mercurialism ; May to Oct. 

Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min. ; 81f fr.). — Nine 
springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate 
women ; general debility in children, women, and ged per- 
sons; gout, partial paralysis. May 1 to Oft. 1 

Schwaibach /20 lus.j zd fr. 5 c). — Chav. neate wa« 



470 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, ' 

tars. For all female complaints; anscmia, chlorosis, nervous 
affections, debility of muscles and mucous membranes, espe- 
cially catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May to Oct. 

Spa (8| brs. ; 44f fr.ji — Highly effervescent ferrugi- 
nous and acidulous waters. For aneemia, chlorosis, female 
complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, difficult menstrua- 
tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous 
catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct. 

Speszia (28 hrs. ; 130 fr. 40 c). — Winter air-cure 
and summer sea-bathing resort. 

Teplitz-Sclionau (32 hrs. ; 145J fr.). — Alkali-saline 
waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, 
paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and, 
sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. May to Nov. 

Trouville (6 hrs.; 28 fr. 65 c.).- — Fashionable and 
much- frequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach. 

Uriage (14f hrs. ; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters, 
81° F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma- 
tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular 
pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15. 

Valencia. — Spanish winter resort ; sea baths, sandy beach. 

Vals (171 hrs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, 
medium, and strong ; principally used as table waters. For 
gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen. 

Venice (36 hrs. ; 154 fr.). — Sea baths and winter sta- 
tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau. 

Vevey fl6^ hrs.; 86| fr.). — Air-cure station, much 
frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature. 

Vichy (8^ hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline 
springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, 
uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes. 

Voslau (27? hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c). — A favorite climatic 
resort of the Viennese. May 15 to Sept. 30 ; grape cure, 
Sept, to Oct, 

"Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c). — The waters are 
excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165° F. 
For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion. 

Zurich (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.i. — Earthy alkaline waters. 



DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE 
UNITED STATES 

IN THE 

PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES 



"Vienna 

a 

Budapest 
Prague . 
Trieste . 
•Carlsbad 



A ustrla= Hungary 

. Ambassador, Richard C. Kerens 
Consul- General, Charles Denby 
Consul-General, Paul Nash. 

Consul, Joseph I. Brittain. 
G-. M. Hotschiek. 
" Will L. Lowrie. 



Brussels 

< i 

Antwerp 
(ihent . 
Liege . 

Copenhagen 



gmm 

. Minister, Charles Page Bryan. 
Ethelbert Watts. 
H. W. Diederich. 
William P. Atwell. 
" Henry A. Johnson. 

Denmark 

Minister, Maurice F. Egan. 
Consul, 



Consul-General 
Consul, 



" . Vice- Consul, Victor Juhler. 

France 

Paris . . Ambassador, Robert Bacon. 

Sec. of Embassy, A. Bailly-Blanchard. 
" . Consul-General, Frank if. Mason. 



472 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS 



Algiers. 


Consul, 


Albert W. Robert. 


Calais . 


a 


James B. Milner. 


Oran 


Agent, 


Albert H. Elford. 


Bordeaux 


Consul, 


Alfred K. Moe. 


Boulogne 


Agent, 


William Whitman. 


Havre . . 


Consul, 


James E. Dunning 


Brest . 


Agent, 


A. Pitel. 


Cherbourg „ 


i t 




Cognac 


Consul, 


George H. Jackson. 


Limoges 


i i 


Eugene L. Belisle. 


Lyons . 


a 


Carl B. Hurst. 


Marseilles 


Consul- Gen., 


Alphonse Gaulin. 


Toulon 


Agent, 


Francis M. Mansfield. 


Nantes . 


Consul, 


Louis Goldschmidt. 


Nice 


a 


William D. Hunter. 


Rheims 


Consul, 


William Bardel. 


Rouen . 


a 


Charles A. Holder. 


Dieppe . 


, . Agent, 


W. Palmer-Samborne 




Germany 



Berlin . . Ambassador, 
" . Sec. of Embassy, 
" . Consul- General, 

Aix-la-Chapelle . Consul, 

Bremen 

Brunswick . 

Cologne 

Dresden 

Frankfort, 

Hamburg 

Leipsic 

Mannheim 

Munich . 

Nuremberg 

Stuttgart 



Consul- General, 
Consul- General, 

Consul, 

Consul-General, 
Consul, 



David J. Hill. 
Irwin B. Laughlin. 
Alex. M. Thackara. 
Pendleton King. 
William T. Fee. 
Talbot J. Albert. 
Hiram J. Dunlap. 
T. St. John Gaffney. 

Frank D. Hill. 

Robert P. Skinner. 

Albert R. Morawetz. 

Samuel H. Shank. 

Thomas W. Peters. 

George N. Ifft. 

Edward Higgins. 





OF THE UNITED STATES 47c 






Great Britain 


London 




Ambassador, 


Whitelaw Reid. 


cc 


Consul- General, 


John L. Griffiths. 


Liverpool 


• 


. Consul, 


Horace L. Washington 


Belfast . 


. 


a 


Hunter Sharp. 


Birmingham 


it 


Albert Halstead 


Kidderminster 


. Agent, 


James Morton. 


Bradford 


• 


, Consul, 


Augustus E. Ingram. 


Bristol 


• 


a 


Homer M. Byington. 


Cardiff . 


• 


it 




Lorin A. Lathrop. 


Cork . 


• 


it 

a 


Geo. E. Chamberlin. 


Dublin 


• 


9 


Edward L. Adams. 


Dundee 


• 


It 

a 


E. H. Dennison. 


Gibraltar 


• 


. Consul, 


Richard L. Sprague. 


Glasgow 


8 


tt 


John N. McCunn. 


Hull . 


• 


a 


Walter C. Hamm. 


Leeds . 


• 


a 


Benjamin F. Chase. 


Malta . 


• 


(i 


James 0. Laing. 


Manchester 


• 


tt 


Church Howe. 


Newcastle 


- 


a 


Horace W. Metcalf. 


Nottingham 


* 


tt 


Samuel M. Taylor. 


Plymouth 


. 


a 


Joseph G. Stephens. 


Sheffield 


, 


tt 


Charles N. Daniels. 


Southampton 


tt 


Albert W. Swalm. 






Greece 


Athens . 




. Minister, 


George H. Moses. 


a 


Consul- General, 


William H. Gale. 


Patras . 


• 


. Consul, 


Arthur B. Cooke. 






Holland 


The Hague 




. Minister, 


Arthur M. Beaupre. 


Amsterdam 


9 


Consul, 


Frank W. Mahin. 


Rotterdam 


Consul- General, 


Soren Listoe. 


Flushing 


. 


Agent, 


Pieter F. Auer. 



474 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS 



Italy 

Rome . . Ambassador, John G. A. Leishman. 

" . Sec. of Embassy, Charles S. Wilson. 

" . . . Consul, Chapman Coleman. 
Florence . . " Leo J. Keena. 

Genoa . Consnl-General, James A. Smith. 
Leghorn . . Consul, Ernest A. Man. 
Milan ... " Charles M. Caughy. 

Naples . . . " Wm. W. Handley. 

Palermo . . " Hernando de Soto. 

Venice . . . " James Vemer Long. 

Norway 

Christiania . Minister, Herbert H. D.Peirce. 

" Consul- General, Henry Bordewich. 

Bergen . . . Consul, B. M. Rasniusen. 

Portugal 

Lisbon . . . Minister, Henry T. Gage. 
k ' . Consul- General, Louis H. Ayme. 
Oporto . . . Agent, William H. Stuve. 

Roumania 

Bucharest . Minister, John R. Carter. 

'• Consul-General, Roland B. Harvey. 

Russia 

St, Petersburg Ambassador, Wm. W. Rockhill. 
'• Sec. of Embassy, George P. Wheeler. 
Consul, Jacob E. Conner. 
Consul- General, John H. Snodgrass. 
Consul, Alex. Heingartner. 



Moscow 
Batum . 
Odessa . 
Riga 

Vladivostok 
Warsaw 



John H. Grout. 
William F. Doty. 
Lester Maynard. 
Thomas E. Heenan. 



OF THE UNITED STATES 475 

Spain 

Madrid . . Minister, Henry Clay Ide. 

" . Consul, Charles L. Hoover. 
Barcelona t Consul-General, Henry H. Morgan. 
Alicante . . Agent, Henry W. Carey. 
Seville . . . Consul, Charles S Winans. 
Malaga . . " Edward J. Norton. 
Valencia . . " Robert Frazer, Jr. 
Cadiz . . . Agent, James Sanderson. 
Jerez de la Frontera Consul, Percival Gassett. 
Teneriffe . . " ■ 



Sweden 

, Minister, Charles H. Graves. 

Consul-General, 

. Consul, Stuart J. Fuller, 

Switzerland 

. Minister, Laurits S. Swenson. 
Consul, George Heimrod. 
" George Gifford. 
" Francis B. Keene. 
" Dominic I. Murphy. 
Consul- General, Robert E. Mansfield. 

Turkey and Dominions 

Constantinople Ambassad., 

" Sec. of Emb., Hoffman Philip. 

" Consul-Gen., Gabriel Bie Ravndal. 

Aleppo . . Consul, Jesse B. Jackson. 

Alexandria . . " David R. Birch. 

Bagdad . . " Frederick Simpich. 

Beirut Consul- General, W. Stanley Hollis. 

Cairo . " " Peter Augustus Jay. 

Jerusalem . , Consul, William Coffin. 

Smyrna Consul- General, Ernest L. Harris. 



Stockholm 

4 i 

Gothenburg. 



Berne . 

Basle , 
Geneva . 
St. Gall 
Zurich . 



A SHORT VOCABULARY 
IN ENGLISH, FRENCH 



One. 

Two. 

Three. 

Four. 

Km 

Six. 

Seven. 



Nine. 
Ten. 

Eleven. 

Twelve. 

Thirteen. 

Fourteen. 

Fifteen. 

Sixteen. 

Seventeen. 

Eighteen. 

Nineteen. 

Twenty. 

Twenty-one. 

Twenty-two. 

Twenty-three, etc 

Thirty. 

Thirty-one. 

Thirty-two, etc. 

Forty. 

Fifty. 

Sixty. 

Seventy. 



T7n. 

Deux. 

Trois. 

Quatm. 

Cinq. 

Six. 

Sept 

Huii 

Neut 

Dix. 

Onze. 

Douze. 

Treize. 

Quatorae, 

Quinze. 

Seize. 

Dix-sept. 

Dix-huit. 

Dix-neuf. 

Vingt. 

Vingt-et-un. 

Vingt-deux. 

Vingt-trois, etc 

Trente. 

Trente-et-un. 

Trente-deux, etO. 

Quarante. 

Cinquante. 

Soixante. 

Soixante-dix. 



OF WORDS AND PHRASES 

GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 



Ems. 
Zwei. 
Drei. 
Vier. 
Eiinf. 
Sechs. 
Siebeu. 
A.cht. 
Neun. 
Zehn. 
Elf. 
Zwolf. 
Dreizehn. 
Vierzehn. 
."Funfzehn. 
Sechzehn. 
Siebzehn. 
Achtzelm. 
Neunzehn. 
Zwanzig. 
.Ein und zwanzig. 
Zwei und zwanzig. 
Drei und zwanzig, etc. 
Dreissig. 
Ein und dreissig. 
£wei und dreissig, etc. 
Vierzig. 
sfiinfzig. 
?echzig. 
Siebzig. 



Uno. 
Due. 
Tre. 

QuattrG. 

Cinque. 

Sei. 

Sette. 

Otto. 

Nove 9 

Dieci. 

Undici. 

Dodici. 

Tredici. 

Quattordici. 

Quindici. 

Sedici. 

Diecisette ; diciasette. 

Dieciotto; diciotto. 

Diecinove; diciannove, 

Venti. 

Vent 5 uno. 

Venti due. 

Venti tre, etc. 

Trenta. 

Trent' uno. 

Trenta due, etc 

Quaranta. 

Cinquanta. 

Sessanta. 

Settanta. 



478 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Eighty. 

Ninety 

A hundred. 

Two hundred, etc. 

A thousand. 

Eleven hundred. 

Twelve hundred. 

Two thousand, etc. 

A million. 

The first. 

The second. 

The third. 

The fourth. 

The fifth. 

The sixth. 

The seventh. 

The eighth. 

The ninth. 

The tenth. 

The eleventh. 

The lasi. 

The kst bat erne. 

Once. 

Twice. 

The half.. 

The third. 

The fourth. 

The fifth. 

The sixth, etc 

A. river. 

A fountain. 

A waterfall 

The gate. 

An hour. 

Half an hour. 



Quatre-vingt. 
Quatre-vingt-dis. 
Cent. 

Deux cents, etft. 
Mille. 

Onze cents. 
Douze cents. 
Deux mille, et* 
Un million. ■ 
Le premier. 
Le second. 
Le troisieme. 
Le quatrieme. 
Le cinquieme. 
Le sixieme. 
Le septieme. 
Le huitierae. 
Le neuvieme. 
Le dixieme. 
Le onzieme. 
Le dernier. 
L'avant-dernier, 
Une fois. 
Deux fo:*s. 
La moitie. Dem^ 
Le tiers. 
Le quart. 
Le cinquieme. 
Le sixieme, etc 
Une riviere. 
Une fontaine. 
Une cascade. 
La porte. 
Une heure. 
Une demi-heure. 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN, 479 



Achtzig. 
Neunzig. 
Hundert. 
Zweihundert, etc. 
Tausend. 
Elfhundert. 
Zwolf hundert. 
Zwei Tausend, etc. 
Eine Million. 
Der Erste. 
Der Zweite. 
Der Dritte. 
Der Yierte. 
Der Eiinfte. 
Der Sechste. 
Der Siebente. 
Der Achte. 
Der Neunte. 
Der Zehnte. 
Der Elfte. 
Der Letzte. 
Der Vorletzte. 
Einmal. 
Zweimal. 

Die Halfte. Halb. 
Das Drittel. 
Das Viertel. 
Das Eunftel. 
Das Sechstel, etc. 
Ein Eluss. 
Ein Brunnen. 
Ein Wasserfall. 
Das Thor. 
Eine Stunde. 
Wne halbe Stunde. 



Ottanta. 

Novanta. 

Cento. 

Dnecento ; dugento, etc. 

Mille. 

Mille cento. 

Mille dugento. 

Due mila, etc. 

Un milione. 

II primo. 

II secondo. 

II terzo. 

II quarto. 

II quinto. 

II sesto. 

II settimo. 

1/ ottavo. 

II nono. 

II decimo. 

L'undecimo; decimo prills 

L' ultimo. 

II penultimo. 

Una volta. 

Due volte. 

La meta. Mezzc 

II terzo. 

II quarto, 

II quinto. 

II sesto, etc. 

Un fiume. 

Una fontana ; una fonts* 

Una cascata. 

La porta. 

Un' ora. 

Una mezz' ora. 



480 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH^ 



A quarter of an hour. 

Sunday. 

Monday. 

Tuesday. 

Wednesday. 

Thursday. 

Friday. 

Saturday. 

A holiday 

The walls of the town. 

A monument. 

The tower. 

A church. 

The cathedral, minster. 

A convent. 

A chapel. 

A palace. 

The town-hall. 

The castle. 

The theatre. 

The custom-house. 

The post-office. 

The library. 

The university. 

The exchange. 

The bank. 

A square. 

A bridge. 

A shop. 

A bookseller's shop. 

A coffee-house. 

An inn ; a hotel. 

A dining-house. 

A furnished room. 

Breakfast. 



Un quart d'heura 

Dimanche. 

Lundi. 

Mardi. 

Mercredi. 

Jeudi. 

Vendredi. 

Samedi. 

Un jour de fete, 

Les murs de la viJW 

Un monument. 

La tour. 

Une eglise. 

La cathedrale. 

Un couvent. 

Une chapelle. 

Un palais. 

L'hotel de ville. 

Le chateau. 

Le theatre. 

La douane. 

Le bureau des poster 

La bibliotheque. 

L'universite. 

La bourse. 

La banque. 

Uue place. 

Un pout. 

Une boutique. 

Une librairie. 

Un cafe. 

Une auberge ; un hoteL 

Un restaurant. 

Une chambre garnie. 

Le deieuner. 






FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 48i 



Eine viertel Stunde. 


Un quarto d' ora. 


Soimtag. 


Domenica. 


Montag. 


Lunedi. 


Dienstag 


Martedi. 


Mittwoch. 


Mercoledi. 


Donnerstag. 


Giovedi. 


Freitag. 


Venerdi. 


Samstag; Somiabend. 


Sabbato. 


Eiu Feiertag; ein Eesttag. 


Un giorno di festa* 


Die Stadtmauem. 


Le mura della citta. 


Ein Denkmal. 


Un monumento. 


Der Thurm. 


La torre. 


Eine Kirche. 


Una chiesa. 


Das Miinster; der Dom. 


La cattedrale. 


Ein Kloster. 


Un convento. 


Eine Kapelle. 


Una cappella. 


Ein Palast. 


Un palazzo. 


Das Batbhaus. 


La casa della cittk 


Das Schloss. 


11 castello. 


Das Sehauspielhaus. 


11 teatro. 


Das Zollhaus, Mauthhaus. 


La dogana. 


Die Post. 


L' uffizio delle poste. 


Die Bibliothek. 


La biblioteca ; la libreria. 


Die Universitat 


L' universita. 


Die Borse. 


La borsa. 


Die Bank. 


La banca. 


Ein Platz. 


Una piazza. 


Eine Briicke. 


Un ponte. 


Ein Kaiiiladen. 


Una bottega. 


Ein Buchladen. 


Una libreria. 


Ein Kaffeb.aus. 


Un caffe. 


Ein Gasthaus ; ein Gasthof. 


Un' albergo ; una locanda 


Ein Speisehaus. 


Un trattore. 


Ein moblirtes Zimmer. 


Una stanza mobigliata. 


Das Eriihstuck. 


La colazione. 



482 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Luncheon. 

Soup. 

Roast-beef. 

Beef-steak. 

Yeal 

Mutton. 

Pork. 

Eish. 

Eggs. 

Cake. 

Butter. 

Cheese. 

Beer. 

Ale, 

?ort. 

Sherry. 

Ices. 

A railway. 

Au express train. 

That is true. 

I believe so. 

It is late. 

I am fatigued. 

I am thirsty; I am hungry. 

It is time to set off. 

That is not true. 

I did not understand. 

Who is it ? 

What are you doing ? 

What do you want ? 

Where are you? 

Where is he ? 

What is he doing ? 

Where are you going ? 

What do you say ? 



Une collation. 

La soupe. 

Du boeuf roti, roast-beef 

Beef-steak. 

Du veau. 

Du mouton. 

Du cochon. 

Le poisson. 

Des oeufs. 

Le gateau. 

Le beurre. 

Le fromage. 

La biere. 

L'ale. 

Le vin d'Oporto. 

Le vin de Xeres. 

Les glaces. 

Un chemin de fei. 

Un train de vitesse. 

C'est vrai. 

Je le crois. 

II est tard. 

Je suis fatigue. 

J'ai soif ; j'ai faim. 

II est temps de partir. 

Cela n'est pas vrai. 

Je n'avais pas compris. 

Qui est-ce ? 

Que faites-vous ? 

Que voulez-vous ? 

Ou etes-vous ? 

Ou est-il ? 

Que fait-il ? 

Ou allez-vous ? 

Que dites-vous P 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 483 



Erne Zwischen-Mahlzeit. 

Die Suppe. 

Ochsenbraten. 

Beef-steak. 

Kalbfleisch. 

Hammelfleisch. 

Schweinefleisch. 

Der Fisch. 

Eier. 

Der Kuchen, 

Die Butter. 

Der Kase. 

Das Bier. 

Das Ale. 

Der Portwein. 

Xereswein. 

Das Eis. 

Eine Eisenbahn. 

Ein Schnellzug. 

Das ist walir. 

Ich glaube es. 

Es ist spat. 

Ich bin miide. 

Icli bin durstig; hungrig. 

Es ist Zeit abzureisen. 

Das ist nicht wahr. 

Ich verstand nicht. 

Wer ist es ? 

Was machen Sie ? 

Was wollen Sie ? 

Wo sind Sie ? 

Wo ist er ? 

Was macht er? 

Wohin gehen Sie ? 

Was sagen Sie ? 



Una colazione. 

La zuppa. 

Dell' arrosto di bue. 

Beef-steak. 

Del vitello. 

Del castrato. 

Del majale. 

II pesce. 

Delle uova. 

La focaccia. 

II burro, butiro. 

II formaggio. , 

La birra. 

La birra fatta con formento. 

II vino d' Oporto. 

II vino di Xeres. 

I sorbetti ; i gelati. 

Una strada ferrata. 

Convoglio celere. 

E vero. 

Lo credo. 

E tardi. 

Sono stracco. 

Ho sete ; ho fame, 

E ora di partire. 

Cio non e vero. 

Non aveva capito. 

Chie? 

Che cosa fate ? 

Che cosa volete ? 

Dove siete ? 

Dov' e ? 

Che cosa fa ? 

Dove andate ? 

Che cosa dite ? 



484 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Did you understand me ? 
Is dinner ready ? 
Is it time to go ?. 
Where shall we go ? 
When shall we set out? 
Are there any letters for 

me? 
Come here. 
Make haste. 
Tell him to come. 

Take care. Stop. 
Not so quick. 
Speak to him. 
Do what I tell you. 

Go away. 

Bring up the carriage. 

Call (wake) me at five 

o'clock. 
Yesterday. 
To-day. 
To-morro*,; 
Every da). 
What name do you give to 

that dish? 
Bring me some bread. 

Bring me a glass of water. 

How much for wine ? 
What is the name of it ? 
At what hour shall we ar- 
rive at X ? 



M'avez-vous comprieP 
Le diner est-il pret P 
Est-il temps de partir P 
Ou irons-nous ? 
Quand partirons-nous ? 
Y a-t-il des lettres pour 

moi? 
Venez-ici. 
Depechez-vous. 
Dites-lu-i de venir. 

Prenez garde. Arretez. 

Pas si vite. 

Parlez-lui. 

Paites ce que je vous dis. 

Allez-vous en. 

Paites avancer la voiture. 

Reveillez - moi a cinq 

heures. 
Hier. 

Aujourd'hui. 
Demain. 
Tous les jours. 
Quel nom doDnez-vous I 

ce mets ? 
Apportez-moi du pain. 

Apportez-moi un verre 

d'eau. 
Combien le vin ? 
Comment 1'appelez-vousP 
A quelle heure arriverons* 

nous a X ? 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 485 



Haben Sie verstanden ? 
1st das Mittagsessen fertig ? 
1st es Zeit abzureisen ? 
Woliin sollen wir gehen ? 
Wann sollen wir abreisen ? 
Siiid Briet'e fur mich da ? 



Sagen 



Kommen Sie hier. 
Beeilen Sie sich. 

Sie ihm, er moge 

kommen. 
Geben Sie Acht. Halt. 
Nicht so sclmell. 
Sprechen Sie mit ilim. 
Thun Sie, was ich Ihnen 

sage. 
Gehen Sie weg. 
Lassen Sie den Wagen vor- 

fahren. 
Wecken Sie mich um fiinf 

Uhr. 
Gestern. 
Heute. 
Morgen. 
Alle Tage. 
Welclien Namen geben Sie 

diesem Gerichte ? 
Bringeu Sie mir etwas 

Brod. 
Bringen Sie mir ein Glas 

Wasser. 
Wie viel fiir den Wein ? 
Wie heisst er ? 
Um wie viel Uhr werden 

wir in X ankommen P 



Mi avete capito ? 
h pronto il pranzo ? 
E egli ora di partire P 
Dove andremo ? 
Quando partiremo? 
Ci sono lettere per me P 

Venite qua. 
Spicciatevi. 
Ditegli che venga. 

Badate. FermatevL 

Non cosl presto. 

Parlategli. 

Fate quel che vi dico. 

Andate via. 

Fate venir avanti la car- 

rozza. 
Svegliatemi alle cinque. 

Ieri. 

Oggi. t 

Dimani. 

Ogni giorno. 

Come chiamate questa pie« 

tanza ? 
Portatemi del pane. 

Recatemi un bicchier d'ae- 

qua. 
Quanto costa il vino ? 
Come si chiama ? 
A che ora arriveremo nti 

aX? 



486 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



What railway is that ? 

Is it more expensive ? 
At what hour does the 

steamboat start ? 
What is the fare ? 

Have you a printed tariff ? 

Is the road easy to find ? 

How far is it to X ? 

What is the usual charge 

by the day ? 
At what hour does it start ? 

Which is the best hotel at 

X? 
Are the charges moderate ? 
Where is the station for X ? 
Is this the train to X ? 
How soon shall we be 

there ? 
Stop, coachman ! we wish 

to get out. 
When must I be ready ? 

I wish to see the landlord 

of the hotel. 
Where is the water-closet ? 
Bring me fresh water. 

I widi *to have breakfast 
(suppss^ 



Quel est ce chemin de fer? 

Est-ce plus cher ? 

A quelle heure le bateau a 
vapeur part-il ? 

Quel est le prix du pas- 
sage ? 

Avez-vous un tarif im- 
prime ? 

Trouve-t-on facilement le 
chemin ? 

Combien y a-t-il d'ici a X? 

Combien donne-t-on ordi- 

nairement par jour ? 
A quelle heure part-elle ? 

Quel est le meilleur hotel 

aX? 
Y a-t-on bon marche ? 
Oil est Fembarcadere de X? 
Est-ce la le train pour X 1 
Quand arriverons-nous ? 

Arretez, cocher ! nous vou- 

lons descendre. 
A quelle heure faut-il etre 

pret ? 
Je desire parler au maitre 

de l'hotel. 
Oil sont les lieux d'aisance ? 
Apportez de l'eau fraiche. 

Je desirerais dejeuner (sou- 
per). 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN 



487 



Was ist das fiir erne Eisen- 

balm ? 
Ist es theurer ? 
Um wie viel Uhr fahrt das 

Dampfschiff ab ? 
Wie viel betragt das Passa- 

giergeld ? 
Haben Sie einen gedruck- 

tenTarif? 
Ist der Weg leicht zu fin- 
den? 
Wie weit ist es von hier 

nach X ? 
Was bezalilt man gewohn- 

licli fiir den Tag ? 
Um wie viel Uhr falirt er 

ab? 
Welches ist der beste 

Gasthof in X ? 
Ist es billig dort ? 
Wo ist der Bahnhof nach X? 
Ist dies der Zug nach X? 
Wie bald werden wir dort 

sein? 
Halt, Kutscher ! Wir wol- 

len aussteigen. 
Wann mnss ich fertig sein ? 

Ich wiinsche denHerrn des 

Hauses zu sehen. 
Wo ist der Abtritt ? 
Bringen sie frisches Was- 

ser. 
Ich wunsche das Erahstiick 

(das Abendessen). 



Quale e questa strada 2&£- 

rata ? 
E piu caro ? 
A che ora parte il batello 

a vapore ? 
Quanto costa il trasporto 

de' passeggieri ? 
Avete una lista stampata. 

E la via facile a trovarsi? 

Quanto distante e X ... da 

qui ? 
Quanto si spende al giorno 

di solito ? 
A che ora parte ? 

Qual e il miglior albergo in 

X? . 
Sono i prezzi equi cola ? 

Dov' e 1' imbarcatoio di X ? 

E quello il traino per X ? 

Ci arriveremo presto ? 

Eermatevi, vetturino, vo- 
gliamo discendere. 

A che ora debbo essev 
pronto ? 

Yorrei parlare al maestro 
di casa. 

Dov' e la ritirata ? 

Portatemi dell' acqua fresca. 

Vorrei far colazione (ce» 
nare). 



488 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Give me something to eat. 
At what hour do we dine ? 

Show me your bill of fare 

and list of wines. 
Bring me the newspaper. 
Is he ready ? 
Which is the way to the 

post-office ? 
How mucli is the postage ? 
Send that letter to the post. 

Where does a banker live ? 
I wish to see a medical man. 



give 



What fee should I 

him ? 
Can I have a warm bath ? 



Bring me some soap. 
Order a hackney-coach for 

me. 
Make a good fire. 
How much have I to pay ? 

Bring me my acconnt. 

Turn to the right, left, 

straight forward. 
How much is charged for 

admission ? 
What direction must I 

take? 
Can I have dinner ? 



Donnez-moi quelque chose 

a manger. 
A quelle heure dinons- 

nous ? 
Montrez-moi la carte. 

Apportez-moi le journal. 
Est-il pret ? 
Pourriez-vous m'indiquer 

la poste aux lettres ? 
Combien pour le port ? 
Faites jeter cette lettre a la 

poste. 
Oil demeure un banquier ? 
Je desire voir un medecin. 

Combien faut-il lui donner? 

Pourrais-je avoir un bain 

chaud ? 
Apportez-moi du savo»«. 
Faites -moi venir une voi- 

ture de louage. 
Faites un bon feu. 
Combien dois-je ? 

Apportez-moi mon compte. 

Prenez a droite, a gauche, 

marchez tout droit. 
Quel est le prix d'entree ? 

Quelle direction faut-il qug 

je premie ? 
Pourrais-je y diner? 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 489 



Geben Sie mir efrwas zu 

essen. 
Urn wie viel Uhr speisen wir 

zu Mittag ? 
2eigen Sie mir den Speise- 

zettel. 
Bringen Sie mir die Zeitung. 
1st er bereit ? 
Welches ist der Weg zur 

Post? 
Wie viel betragt das Porto ? 
Senden Sie diesen Brief zur 

Post. 
Wo wohnt em Bauquier ? 
Ich wiinsche eiueu Arzt zu 

spreclien. 
Wie viel Honorar soil ich 

ilim gebeu? 
£ann ich eiu warmes Bad 

bekommen ? 
feringen Sie mir Seife. 
Bestellen Sie mir eiue 

Lohukutsche. 
Macben Sie eiu gutesFeuer. 
Wie viel habe ich zu be- 

zahlen. 
Bringen Sie mir die Rech- 

nung. 
Geh en Sie rechts, links, 

geradeaus. 
Wie liocli ist der Eintritts- 

preis ? 
Welche Richtung muss ich 

nehmen ? 
Kan ich das Mittagsessen 

haben P 



Datemi qualche cosa da 

mangiare ? 
A che ora si pranza f 



Mostratemi la lista e la notfe, 

dei vini. 
Portatemi la gazzetta. 
E egli all' ordine ? 
Potreste indicarmi il cam- 

mino che va alia posta ? 
Quanto costa il porto ? 
Fate portare questa lettera 

alia posta. 
Dove abita un banchiere ? 
Desidererei parlare con un 

medico. 
Quanto gli debbo dare P 



bagno 



Potrei avere un 

caldo ? 

Portatemi un po' cli sapone. 
Ordinatemi una carrozza da 

nolo, un fiacre. 
Pate un buon fuoco. 
Quanto vi debbo ? 

Portatemi il mio conto. 

Si volga a destra, a sinistra, 

vada diritto. 
Quanto costa il biglietto 

d'ingresso ? 
Qual direzione devo pren« 

dere ? 
Potrb avervi il pranzo ? 



490 ~ WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



How much ? 

Have you no better ? 

It is fine. 
It is very hot. 
Does it rain ? 
It is cold. 
Send for a cab. 

Coachman, drive me to the 
station. 

Where is the baggage- 
room ? 

Please to give me two first- 
class tickets to X. 

lere tney are. 
jVhai do they cost ? 

At what hour is supper 

ready. 
That's very dear. 
Where are our rooms ? 

Have any letters arrived for 
Mr. N., poste restante? 
Here is my passport. 
Is breakfast ready ? 
Give me a drink. 
What o'clock is it ? 
What kind of weather is it ? 
How do you do ? 
Very well, I thank you. 
Have you a room to let ? 



Combien ? 

N'avez-vous rien de meil. 

leur? 
II fait beau. 
II fait tres chaud. 
Pleut-il ? \ 
II fait froid. 
Faites chercher un fiacre. 

Cocher, conduisez-moi au 

chemin de fer. 
Oil est le bureau de ba- 

gages ? 
Deux billets de premiere 

classe pour X, s'il vous 

plait. 
Voila, monsieur. 
Combien ces billets P 

A quelle heure soupe-t-on? 

C'est bien cher. 

Oil sont nos chambres ? 

Y a-t-il des lettres poste re- 
stante pour Monsieur ^ . ? 

Yoici mon passeport. 

Le dejeuner est-il servi? 

Donnez-moi a boire. 

Quelle heure est-il? 

Quel temps fait-il ? 

Comment vous portez-vous ? 

Tort bien, je vous remereie. 

Auriez-vous une chambre 
a me loner ? 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 491 



Wie viel ? 

Haben Sie nichts Bes- 

seres ? 
Es ist scbon. 
Es ist selir heiss. 
Begnet es ? 
Es ist kalt. 
Lassen Sie eine Droschke 

holen. 
Kutscher, faliren Sie micli 

nach der Eisenbahn. 
Wo ist die Gepaekan- 

nahme ? 
Ich bitte um zwei Billete 

erster Klasse nach X. 

Hier sind sie. 

Wie viel kosten sie ? 

Um wie viel Uhr ist das 

Abendessen fertig ? 
Das ist selir tbeuer. 
Wo sind nnsere Zimmer ? 

Sind Briefe angekommen 

fiir Herrn N.? 
Hier ist mein Pass. 
Ist das Eruhstiick fertig ? 
Geben Sie mir zn trinken. 
Wie viel Uhr ist es ? 
Wie ist das Wetter ? 
Wie befinden Sie sich ? 
Sehr wohl, ich danke Ihnen . 
Haben Sie ein Zimmer zn 

vermiethen ? 



Quanto ? 

Non ne avete di miglioref 

Fa bel tempo. 

Ea caldissimo. 

Piove ? 

Ea freddo. 

Eate cercare un fiacre. 

Cocchiere, coiidticeiemi alia 

strada ferrata. 
Dov 5 e T ufficio deglieffettiP 

Due biglietti di prima 
classe per X, se vi piace 

Ecco, sign:) re. 

Quanto avete pagato pe,? 

questi biglietti ? 
A che ora si cena ? 

h carissimo. 

Dove sono le nostre ch 

mere ? 
Vi sono lettere per il Sig> 

nor N. post a restante ? 
Ecco il mio passaporto. 
E in tavola la colazione ? 
Datemi da bere. 
Che ora e ? 
Che tempo fa ? 
Come sta? 

Benissimo, la ringrazio. 
Avrebbe una camera d 

affittare F 



TRAVELLERS' .TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 



Before making use of the words in this. Code, it is essential 
thai intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends 
with whom thy intend to correspond have in their possession 
the same edition of Ute work as the one about to be used. 

This Code is intended as a means of reducing the expense 
of telegraphing. A single word means a whole sentence. 
A copy of the Code should be left with the person at home 
to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and 
address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). 
The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal 
Code between two pefsons, who may agree upon certain sen- 
tences, and write them carefully in their two hooks. This 
Code has heen made up expressly for The Complete 
Pocket-Guide. 

Almond Telegraph to —. 

Almost Telegraph as soon as possible. 

Aloes Telegraph your reply. 

Aloft Telegraph and keep ns well posted. 

Aloof Inform us by telegraph. 

Aloud Telegraph us what to do. 

Air Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch. 

Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat. 

Akin We cannot understand the word in your tela. 

gram. Please repeat it. 

Alack The word you do not understand is — — . 

Alarm Your despatch received. 

Agog Answer my telegram of ■ 

Agony Answer immediately by telegraph. 

Aided Answer by telegraph at ■ 

Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply. 

Alum Have you received our telegram of — » ? 

Amaze Have received your telegram of — — . 

Amber If you wish to communicate with me by telegraph, 

do so at — — , before — . 

Amboy Please advise by telegraph. 

Amen Get despatch at telegraph office. 

Amical Before despatch received, we had — — . 

Amidst ....Have you sent us a despatch to-day? 

Amity If we don't telegraph you by - — , you may con* 

elude — «? 



TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 493 

Ample If you don't telegraph us by ,we shall 

Amplify What is reason of delay in reply to our telegram* 

Amuse 

Analogy 

Anatomy.... 

Ancestor 

Anchor. ...... 

Ancient 

Andiron 

Anew 

Angel 

Angry 

Animal .... 

Animate 

Ankle... ... 

Annals 

Annex — ... 

Annul 

Appeal 

Apply 

Apron •« 

Baby Your letter of — is receiveu. 

Back Your letter is received. 

Bacon Send letters here until the =™=v 

Badly Send letters to — - until the — — % 

Backstay Send letters care of—. 

Badger We write you- — . 

Baffle We wrote you last mail. 

Bag ...Will write yon at once. 

Bail Full information by to-day's mail. 

Bake Have sent you letter by to-day's man. 

Balcor 7 Letter was sent. 

Bald Answer by mail. 

Ballad No letter to-day ; telegraph contents if imuortaat 

Balm Have recei ved no letters since . 

Banjo Forward no letters after . 

Bandit We forwarded letters to ■— on thts — — — ■ 



494 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 

Banner Your letter of received and agreed to. 

Banquet Your letter of received and answered. 

Baron All matter to date lias been forwarded. 

Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us ? 

Beadle Await our letter. 

Beast We have advices which, in our oprair>n r may ca^se 

your return to -. Where will a letter soonest 

reach you? 

Beauty We have written you fully on the wt,5f\t 

Beckon ....What is reason of delay in replying to^w lotto* 

Bed 

Beef 

Befog 

Beggar 

Betide 

Bestow 

Betray 

Biceps 

Birch. ..... 

Blast „ 

Behead .... 

Behold ..o...... 

Belay ...... 

Bench ......... 

Belt ............... 

Bias , 

Biped ............ 

Birthday ...... 

Bishop 

Bivalve ....... 

Blacmeg ...» 

Blaze 



TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 495 

Dabin We shall return at once by — . 

Daboose ....We shall return at once by the — — . 

Cadet We shall sail for home on the — — . 

Cage We sail - — . 

Cake When does sail? 

Calico We think it best to delay departure. 

Calm ..We think it best to delay departure until — „ if 39 

further advice, shall leave on that day for — »»■«. 

Caloric Cannot leave * — — . 

Cameo Cannot leave until — =-. „ 

Camp Cannot leave — -. Will sail by next steamer. 

Canal Have missed steamer. 

Canary Have missed steamer ; will sail by next. 

Candy When does leave ? 

Cane Steamer sails on . 

Cannon Sailing postponed until . 

Canopy Tickets lost; send duplicates. 

Canteen ...Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Tell—. 

Canvass ...Arrived all well, but stormy passage. Tell . 

Caper Arr. all well; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to . 

Caprice Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Shall proc to . 

Capsize Arrived all well ; have written. 

Capsule Arrived all well. Address letters to — — . 

Captain Has ■ arrived? 

Caramel ...He arrived on — — - . 
Caravan ...He has not arrived. 

Carbon Return at once. v 

Card Return as soon as possible. 

Cardinal ...Return at once. Important matters demand your prea* 

ence here. 
Careworn. .Things look blue. Unless strong reason to the contrary, 

should like to have you shorten your trip. 

Cargo You need not return. 

Carmine ...You need not return until — — . 

Catnip You must be here by the . 

Caxton Impossible to return until——, 

Cement Arrange for our return. 

Central Cannot return unless -— — . 

Chafe If agreeable, will remain ... ■ , . 

Chair ...When will you return? 

Chancel ...When do you expect to be here ? 

Chaos We shall be with you by the — — . 

Chapter ....Secure passage by this steamer. 
Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at=—»=* 

Chariot .W« shall arrive at this station by train due at 1 

Charity 

Charm 

Cherish...... 



496 



TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 



Cider .. 

Cimeter 

Cipher ....... 

Cireuit 

Citadel 



Clack 



Coil.. 
Colic 



Confront ... 

Dabble Send cable transfer for — , through 

Dabster Send me new credit for — -— , through 

Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through — 

Daffodil .... Remit by mail: — 



Dagger £5 

Dainty 10 

Dale 15 

Dally . .;-.... 20 

Damper 25 

Dance 30 

Dandy 35 

Dangling 40 

Daring 45 

Dark 50 



Darkey £55 

Dashed 60 

Daub 65 

Daylight 70 

Daytime 75 

Deacon 80 

Deadeye 85 

Deaf 90 

Debased 95 

Debatable ...100 



Debility ...£121 

Debut 150 

Decamp...... 175 

Decay 200 

Deceit 250 

Decide 300 

Decimal 400 

Declare 500 



Decrease ...Remit at once. 

Deem We have remitted. 

Deface Have you forwarded remittance? 

Defeat We cannot remit. 

Defection. ..We cannot remit more than -. 
Defence ....We send draft by first mail. 
Defiance ....Will honor draft. 

Deform Will honor draft to amount of — — . 

Defrayed ...Will you lienor my draft? 

Deftly Will you honor my draft to amount of 

Delve Please prepay passage per — . 

Demerit ....Please prepay passage, and telegraph name of steamei. 
Democrat- • Have prepaid your passage per , sailing on ■ % 



TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 49? 

Demon Are without funds ; send money to — — r 

Dentist 

Dunce ..- 

Damask ■=..« 

Dastard .-..- , 

Daughter ..- 

Debris 

Destiny 

Deck 

Denizen 

Denote - 

Dense 

Depose ...... 

Depress .... 

Derange .... 

Device ....... 

Dilute ........ 

Disclose .... 

Distress .... 

Divan 

Dock 

Dome 

Dowdy 

Drab 

Drama 

Drill 

Dress 

Drum 

Eagle In consequence of illness of — — , we are detained her*, 

Send letters here until the . 

Earth — '• — is better, and we hope to leaveon the '■""», 

East- — — is seriously ill; will advise vou again. 



498 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 

Ebonv ——is sick, hut not dangerously. 

Echo is improving slowly. 

Edible is very much better ; no need of your returning. 

Editor is no better. Would come home at once. 

Educate .... is in a critical condition. 

Efface ■ is rapidly sinking. 

Elffort — — died last/night 

Egress ( lied yesterday. 

Efapse — — died to-day. 

Elaborate- Please express our sympathy. 

Electric We are all well, and there is no need of your returning 

Elevate Hope all are well. 

Enchant . . .All are well. 

Elixir 

Elongate ... 

Elope 

Eluded ...... 

Empire 

Emulate ... 

Endow 

Engine 

Gadfly Stay as kmg as you like. Everything is as it should he, 

and all are well. 

Gaiter Everything sound,' and doing well. 

Galaxy We propose extending tour. 

Gallant We propose extending tour to — -. If ail right, tel& 

graph. 

Game When will you he in ? 

Garden We expect to reach — — by . 

Garrison ...Will meet you at . 

Gastric We wish to know where you can be met between no> 

and . 

Gazette . . . .Do as you think best. 

Gender Can 5^011 arrange? 

Genial We can arrange. 

Geyser We cannot arrange. 

Ghost Everything sAtigfactoril-sr .aarrwjreiL 



TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 499 

Gimlet .......We think it advisable to . 

Ginger We think well of — — . 

Girlhood ..We do not think well of-——. 
Gladden ....Act according to your own judgment. 
Glancing ...How is business t 

Glass Business is good. Everything all right. 

Gleam Anything the matter ? No word from you by mail or wire. 

Glide Send us word at once. 

Glimmer ...Nothing the matter; all well. Have written. 

Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me. 

Glory Where is — ? 

Glue Do you know address of——? 

Goblin Address of party is ■ — -. 

Goddess ...Address cannot be given. 
Gondola ...When did you send — i" 
Goodness ..Have you done so ? 
Gotham ....Have you done anything? 

Gothic .......Keep this confidential 

Gouge ." 



Gout 

Govern. 

Gown... 

Grab .......... 

Grade. ....... 

Gradual ... 

Grammar.. 

Greedy ...... 

Grief .......... 

Groeer ..... 

Growl e 

Grain ...» 

Gruff ......... 

Guard .,..*.« 

Guano e » 

Tuide 



INDEX. 



ABBEVILLE, 166. 

£bbotsford, 94. 
Aberdeen, 83. 
Abergele, 31. 
Abo, 455. 
Adelsberg, 258. 
jEtna, Mount, 386. 
Aghadoe, 8. 
Agram, 258. 
Ahrweiler, 225. 
Ailsa Craig, 59. 
Airolo, 283. 
Aix-la-Chapelle, 221, 

203. 
Aix-les-Bains, 440. 
Alatri, 371. 
Albacete, 414. 
Albano, 366. 
Alessandria, 305. 
Alfort, 196. 
Algeciras, 421. 
Alicante, 414. 
Alio way, 58. 
Alpnach. 284. 
Althorp Park, 125. 
Altorf, 282. 
Amalfi, 383. 
Ambleside, 45, 44. 
Amboise, 198. 
Ambras, 265. 

Amiens, 166. 
Amsteg, 282. 
Amsterdam, 215. 
Anagni, 371. 
Anagno, Lake, 377. 
Ancona, 328. 
Andermatt, 283. 
Andernach, 226. 
Anglesea, 27. 



Angouleme, 439. 
Annan, 56. 
Annesley, 108. 
Antemnse, 366. 
Antibes, 399. 
Antwerp, 211. 
Aosta, 295. 
Apennines, 328. 
Appian Way, 363. 
Aqua Acetosa, 365. 
Aquino, 371. 
Aranjuez, 426. 
Arbroath, 83. 
Arcachon, 439. 
Ardchattan, 74. 
Ardrishaig, 79. 
Arenfels, 225. 
Arezzo, 338. 
Ariccia, 367. 
Aries, 401. 
Arnhem, 217. 
Arona, 299, 298. 
Arras, 166. 
Ashton, 104. 
Asnieres, 165. 
Assisi, 339. 
Assmannshausen, 232. 
Athlone, 22. 
Auburn, 22. 
Augsburg, 266. 
Avernus, Lake, 378. 
Avignon, 402. 
Avoca, Vale of, 20. 
Awe, Loch, 78. 
Ayr, 58. 

BacharacHj 231. 
Badajos, 431 
Baden-Baden, 272. 
Bagg.-ige, xii. 
^aia, 378. 



Baireuth, 270. 
Balearic Isles, 409, 
Ballater, 84. 
Balmoral, 84. 
Balquhidder, 73. 
Bamberg, 270. 
Banavie, 76. 
Bangor, 28, 26. 
Bannockburn, 81. 
Barbizon, 197. 
Barcelona, 406. 
Basle, 274. 
Bassenthwaite, 53. 
Bath, 157. 
Battle Abbey, 155. 
Bayonne, 433. 
Baziasch, 256. 
Bedford, 125. 
Belcaro, 339. 
Belfast, 25. 
Belgium, 201. 
Belgrade, 256. 
Bellaggio, 300. 
Bellinzona, 279. 
Belvoir Castle, 107. 
Ben Ledi, 72, 73. 
Ben Lomond, 70. 
Ben Venue, 71, 72. 
Bergamo, 307. 
Bergen, 448. 
Berlin, 241. 
Bernardino Pass, 279. 
Berne, 287. 
Bernese Oberland,286i 
Bernina Pass, 280. 
Besangon, 404. 
Beverley, 102. 
Biarritz, 433. 
Bienne, 291. 
Bingren. 232. 



INDEX 



501 



Birmingham, xr/, 124. 
Black Forest, 272, 273. 
Blarney Castle, 4. 
Blois, 197. 
Blue Grotto, 382. 
Bologna, 322. 
Bonn, 222. 
Boppard, 230. 
Bordeaux, 437. 
Bordighera, 396. 
Borromean Isles, 299. 
Boston, 106. 
Bothwell, 68. 
Bougival, 194. 
Boulogne, 161. 
Bowness, 45. 
Bozen, 265. 
Bracciano, 370. 
Bradford, 103. 
Braemar, 84. 
Bray, 20. 
Bremen, 239. 
Brenner Pass, 265. 
Brescia, 307, 305. 
Brest, 168. 
Brieg, 296. 
Bnenz, 284. 
Brighton, 155. 
Brindisi, 328 
Bristol, 158. 
Britannia Bridge, 27. 
Broek, 217. 
Biuck, 258. 
Bruges, 207. 
Briinig Pass, 284. 
Brunswick, 238. 
Brussels, 204. 
Bucharest, 257- 
Budapest, 255. 
Bulgaria, 257. 
Burgos, 432. 
Bute, 79. 
Buttermerej ^2. 
Cadetjabbia, 301. 
Cadiz, 421. 
Caen, 167. 
Caernarvon, 29; 
Calais, 161. 
Caledonian Canal 76. 
Callander, 73. 



Camaldoli, 337. 
Cambridge, 123. 
Campagna, The, 364. 
Cannes, 398. 
Cannstadt, 267. 
Canossa, 325. 
Canterbury, 160. 
Capellen, 229. 
Capri, 382. 
Capua, 371. 
Cardiff, 158. 
Cardross, 67, 69. 
Carlisle, 55. 
Carlsbad, 249. 
Carlsruhe, 272. 
Carrara, 892. 
Caserta, 381. 
Cashel, 14. 
Cassel, 238. 
Cassino, 371. 
Castel, 235. 
Castellamare, 381. 
Castel Gandolfo, 387. 
Catania, 385. 
Caub, 231. 
Cauterets, 437. 
Cawdor Castle, 78. 
Certosa, La, 304, 337. 
Cesena, 327. 
Cette, 406. 
Chalons, 200. 
Chambord, 198. 
Cbamomiix, 293, 
Chantilly, 195. 
Charleroi, 202. 
Charlottenburg, 245. 
Chartres, 168. 
Chateau Thierry, 199. 
Chatham, 160. 
Chatillon, 197- 
Chatsworth, 1L9. 
Chaumont, 198. 
Chaudfontaine,203. 
Chenonceaux, 198. 
Cherbourg, 167. 
Chester, 32. 
Chiavenna, 279. 
Chiemsee, 261. 
Chillon, 291. 
Chioggia. 320. 



Chiswick, 154. 
Cliristiania, 445. 
Civita. Vecchia, 389. 
Clarens, 2'vl. 
Cloyne, 5. 
Cobience, 227. 
Coburg, 240. 
Coimbra, 435. 
Coire, 278. 
Colchester, 154. 
Col de Balme, 292. 
Cole rain e, 24. 
Colico, 301, 279. 
Cologne, 218. 
Como, Lake, 300. 
Compiegne, 196. 
Coniston Lake, 46. 
Connemara, 23. 
Constance, 275. 
Consuls, xviii. 
Conway, 29. 
Copenhagen, 441. 
Coppet, 290. 
Cora Linn, 68. 
Cordova, 415. 
Cork, 3. 

Cornice Road, 395. 
Correggio, 325. 
Cortona, 338. 
Coventry, 112. 
Cracow, 257. 
Cremona, 310, 30&. 
Cronstadt, 456. 
Culloden, 78. 
Cumse, 378. 
Darmstadt, 5J7i. 
Delft, 213. 
Denmark, 44L 
Derby, 108. 
Derbyshire, Peak o^ 

108. 
Derwentwater, 52. 
Dieppe, 161. 
Dijon, 198. 
Dinan. 168. 
Disscitis, 279. 
Domo d' Ossola, 29*, 
Douai, 201. 
Dover, 161. 
Drac''enfela,223. 



502 



INDEX. 



Dresden, 246. 
Drogheda, 20. 
Drontheim, 447. 
Dryburgh Abbey, 94. 
Dublin, 14. 
Dulwich, 153. 
Dumbarton, 66. 
Dumfries, 56. 
Dunblane, 81. 
Dundee, 82. 
Dunkeld, 82. 
Dunottar Castle, 83. 
Durham, 95. 
Diisseldorf, 218. 
Eastbouene, 155. 
Eaton Hall, 35. 
Eaux-Bonnes, 437. 
Eaux-Chaudes, 437. 
Ecclefechan, 55. 
Eddystone Light, 159. 
Edenhall, 54. 
Edinburgh, 85. 
Ehrenbreitstein, 228. 
Ehrenfels, 232. 
Eisenach, 239. 
Elsinore, 444. 
Elstow, 125. 
Eltville, 234. 
Ely, 123. 

Emmerich, 217, 218- 
Ems, 228. 
Engadine, 279. 
Enghien, 195. 
England, 32. 
Erfurt, 240. 
Ermenonville, 196. 
Escurial, 429. 
Esthwaite, 44. 
Eton, 151. 
Etretat, 162. 
Evora, 436. 
Evreux, 167. 
E v eter, 159. 
Faenza, 327. 
Faro, 436. 
F6camp, 162. 
Ferentmo, 371. 
Ferney, 289. 
Ferrara, 321 . 
Fiesole, 337. 



Florence, 329. 

Fliielen, 282. 
Folkestone, 160. 
Foligno, 339. 
Fontainebleau, 196. 
Forli, 327. 
Fort Augustus, 77. 
Fountains Abbey, 97. 
France, Northern, 161. 
France, Southern, 397. 
Frankfort, 236. 
Frascati, 368. 
Freiburg, 273, 288. 
Frejus, 399. 
Frosinone, 371. 
Frutigen, 287. 
Fulda, 239. 
Furca Pass, 283. 
Furness Abbey, 42. 
Furstenberg, 232. 
Galway, 23. 
Garda, Lake of, 301, 

3031 
Gastein, 260. 
Gemmi Pass, 287. 
Geneva, 289. 
Genoa, 393. 
Genzano, 367. 
Germany, 218. 
Gerona, 406. 
Ghent, 209. 
Giants' Causeway, 24. 
Gibraltar, 420. 
Giessbach, 285. 
Girgenti, 389. 
Giurgevo, 257. 
Glamis Castle, 83. 
Glasgow, 60. 
Glastonbury, 153. 
Glen Fruin, 67. 
Gorner Grat, 295. 
Gotha, 240. 
Gothenburg, 445. 
Granada, 417- 
Granville, 167. 
Grasmere, 50. 
Gratz, 258. 
Greenock, 67, 80. 
Greenwich, 153. 
Grimsel Pass, 283. 



Grindelwald, 285.. 
Grotta Ferrata, 388, 
Haaklem, 215, 
Hague, The, £13. 
Hal, 201. 
Halle, 241. 
Hamburg, 239, 441. 
Hamilton, 67. 
Hammerfest, 448. 
Hammerstein, 226. 
Hampstead, 153. 
Hampton Court, 152- 
Hanover, 238. 
Harrogate, 98. 
Harrow, 154. 
Hastings, 155. 
Havre, 162. 
Haworth, 103. 
Heidelberg, 270. 
Helensburgh, 87. 
Helvellyn, 51. 
Herculaneum, S79. 
Highgate, 153. 
Highlands, Scottisbi 

68. 
Holland, 212. 
Holvhead, 27. 

Homburg, 237. 

Hotels, xx. 

Hull, 102. 

Hyeres, 399. 

Innsbhuck, 264. 

Interlaken, 285. 

Inverary, 70. 

Inverness, 78. 

lnversnaid, 71, 69. 

Ion a, 76. 

Ireland, 1, 26. 

Iron Gates, 257. 

trongray, 57. 

Irun, 433. 

Ischia, 382. 

Ischl, 260. 

Iseo, 301. 

Isola Bella, 299. 

Italy, 297. 

Jerez, 422. 

Johannisb erg, 233. 

Julier Pass, 279. 

Jungfrau, 286. 






INDEX. 



503 



Kaa^ersteg, 287. 
Kasan Defile, 257. 
Katrine, Loch, 71. 
Kelh»im, 269. 
Kenilworth, 114. 
Keswick, 52. 53. 
Kew, 152. ' 
Kidderminster, 111. 
Kiilarney, 6, 10. 
Kingstown, 21. 
Komorn, 255. 
Konigsstuhl, 230, 271. 
Kouigswinter, 223. 
Konigstein, 248. 
Kreuznach, 233. 
Laach, 226. 
Laeken, 206. 
Lahneck, 230. 
Laibach, 258. 
Lanark, 68. 
Lausanne, 288, 199. 
Leamington, 121. 
Lecco s 301. 
Leeds. i02. 
Le^hor-,, 389. 
Leipsic, £40. 
Leith, 91. 
Lemberg, 257. 
Lerida, 411. 
Lerins, Isles of, 399. 
Letter of Credit, ix. 
Leuk, Baths of, 287, 

296. 
Leyden, 215. 
Li£ge, 202. 
Lille, 202. 
Limerick, 13. 
Lincoln, 105. 
Linkoping, 44i. 
Linlithgow, 82. 
Linz, 225, 259. 
Lisbon, 434. 
Msieux, 167- 
Liverpool, 36, viii. 
Llandaff, 158. 
Locarno, 299_ 
lodore, 52. 
Lomond, Locn, 6?. 
i.,ondoi,, :28. 
Londonderry, s«j. 



Lorch, 232. 
Lou vain, 207. 
Lucca, 392. 
Lucerne, 280. 
Lugano, 300, 279. 
Luino, 299. 
Lund, 444. 
Lurlei, 231. 
Luxembourg, 204. 
Lyons, 403. 
Macon, 199. 
Madrid, 426. 
Magdeburg, 238. 
Maggiore, Lake, 298. 
Majorca, 409. 
Malaga, 419. 
Malamocco, 320. 
Malmaison, 194. . 
Malmo, 444. 
Manchester, 104. 
Mannbeim, 271. 
Mantes, 165. 
Mantua, 310. 
Marburg, 238. 
Margate, 154. 
Marino, 368. 
Marksburg, 230. 
Marly, 195. 
Marseilles, 399, 297. 
Martigny, 292. 
Matterhorn, 295. 
Mauchline, 57. 
Mayence, 234. 
Maynooth, 22. 
Meaux, 199. 
Mecblin, 210. 
Meiringen, 284. 
Melrose, 93. 
Menaggio, 300. 
Menai Bridge, 28. 
Men tone, 397. 
Mer de Glace, 293. 
Messina, 384. 
Metz, 233. 
Meudon, 197. 
Milan, 302. 
Minorca, 409. 
Miramar, 259. 
Modena, 324, 310. 
Monaco 397, 



Money, xv. 
Monr'eale, 388. 
Mons, 201. 
Monserrat, 408. 
Mont Blanc, 293. 
Monte Cenis, 297. 
Monte Rosa, 295. 
Montgomerie, 58. 
Montmorency, 195. 
Montpellier, 405. 
Montrose, 83. 
Morat, Lake, 291. 
Moscow, 460. 
Moselle River, 228. 
Mouse Tower, 232. 
Mt. St. Michel, 167. 
Munich, 261, 310, 249. 
Murano, 320. 
Miirren, 286. 
Nairn, 78. 
Namur, 202. 
Nancy, 200. 
Naples, 370. 
Narbonne, 406. 
Nemi, Lake, 367. 
Neucha-tel, 291. 
Neuwied, 226. 
Newark, 107, 
Newcastle, 95. 
Newmarket, 124. 
Nice, 398. 
Niederwald, 233. 
Niederwerth, 227. 
Nijni-Novgorod, 462. 
Nimes, 401. 
Nisida, 377. 
Nonnenwerth, 224. 
Northampton, 125. 
Norway, 445, 
Nottingham, 107. 
No vara, 306. 
Nuremberg, 267. 
Oban, 74, 78. 
Ober-Ammergau, 264, 
Oberwesel, 231. 
Ocean Voyage, viu 
Odessa, 462. 
Oporto, 436. 
Orange, 403. 
Orleans, 197. 



504 



INDE] 



Orta, 301. 
Orvieto, 338 
Ostend, 207 
Ostia, 370. 
Otranto, 328. 
Oxford, 125. 
Padua, 311. 
Psestum, 383. 
Palermo, 387. 
Palestrina, 369. 
Palma, 409. 
Paris, 168 
Parma, 324. 
Passports, ix. 
Pau, 436. 
Pavia, 305. 
Perpignan, 406. 
Perth, 82. 
Perugia, 338. 
Pesaro, 327. 
Peschiera, 301, 308. 
Pesth, 255. 

Peterborough, 121, 106. 
Pfalz, 231. 
Piacenza, 310. 305. 
Pierrefonds, 196. 
Pillnitz, 247- 
Pisa, 390. 
Pistoja, 328, 
Plymouth, 159. 
Poitiers, 440. 
Pompeii, 379. 
Poutresina, 280. 
Port Mahon, 409. 
Portsmouth, 156. 
Portugal, 434. 
Posilippo, 376. 
Potsdam, 245. 
Pozzuoli, 377- 
Prague, 248. 
Presburg, 255. 
Procida, 382, 383. 

QtJEENSTCCWN, 2. 

Ragatz, 277. 
Railways, xvi. 
Ramsgate, 154. 
Rapperschwv!, 277. 
Ratisbou, 269. 
Ravelin, 383. 
Raveuua, 325. 



Reggio, 325, 384. 
Remagen, 225. 
Renfrew, 66. 
Rheims, 199. 
Rheineck, 226. 
Rheinfels 230. 
Rheinstein, 232. 
Rhense, 230. 
Rhine. 222. 
Rhone Glacier, 283. 
Richmond, 152. 
Righi, The, 281. 
Rimini, 327. 
Ripon, 97. 
Riva, 302. 
Rochester, 159. 
Rolaudseck, 224. 
Rome, 340. 
Roslin, 92. 
Rothesay, 79. 
Rotterdam, 212. 
Rouhaix, 202. 
Rouen, 163. 
Roveredo, 265, 310. 
Rovigo, 321. 
Rowardennan, 69. 
Rudesheim, 233. 
Rueil, 194. 
Rugby, 12L 
Russia, 455. 
Rustchuck, 257. 
Rvdal,49, 
Ryde, 157. 
Sagx t ntum, 412. 
St. Albans, 154. 
St. Andrews, 83. 
St. Bernard Pass 294. 
St. Clond, 193. 
St. Denis, 195. 
St. Germain, 194. 
St. Goar, 230. 
St. Gothard Pass, 280, 

279 
St. Malo, 168. 
St. Maurice, 292. 
St. Moritz, 280. 
St. Petersburg 456. 
St. Quentin, 201. 
St. Theodnle Pass, 295. 
Salernu, 383. 



Salisbury, 156. 
Salzburg, 259. 
Salzkammergut, 260, 
San Marino, 327. 
San Remo, 395. 
San Sebastian, 433. 
Santarem, 434. 
Saragossa, 410. 
Savona, 395. 
Saxon Switzerland, 

247- 
Saxon-les-Bains, 295. 
Sceaux, 197. 
Schaffhauseu, 275. 
Scheveningen, 214. 
Schiedam, 213. 
Schonbrunn, 254. 
Scotland, 56. 
Sebastopol, 462. 
Sedan, 200. 
Semmering Pass, 2SS, 

298. 
Servia, 256. 
Seville, 422. 
Sevres, 194. 
Sheffield, 105. 
Sicily, 384. 
Siena, 339. 

Simplon Pass, 295, 294, 
Sion, 295. 
Solfatara, 377. 
Solferino, 308. 
Sorrento, 381. 
Southampton, 156. 
Spa, 203. 
Spnin, 405. 
Spezia, La, 393, 325. 
Spires, 271. 
Spleen Pass, 277. 
Staffa, 75. 
Stahleck, 231. 
^taubbach, 286. 
Steamships, x. 
Stirling, 80. 
Stockholm, 449. 
Stolzenfels, 229. 
Strasbourg, 272, 200. 
Stratford-on- Avon, 118* 
Stuttgart, 266. 
Subiaco, 369. 



INDEX. 



505 



dvreden, 449. 

Switzerland, 274. 
Syracuse, 386. 
Taormina, 385. 
Taranto, 328. 
Tarascon, 403. 
Tarragona, 412. 
Teplitz, 249. 
Terni, 339. 

Thrasymene Lake, 338. 
Throndhjera, 417. 
Thun, Lake of, 286. 
Tivoli, 368. 
Toledo, 430. 
Torcello, 321. 
Torquay. 159 
Tortosa, 412. 
Toulon, 399 
Toulouse, 439, 
Tours, 198. 
Trent, 265, 310, 
Treves, 229. 
Trouvillr, 162. 
Trieste, 321, 258. 
Trossachs, The, 71. 



Tunbriflge "Wells, 155. 
Turin, 305. 
Tusculum, 368. 
Tyrol, 264. 
Ullswater, 48. 
Ulm, 266. 
Upsala, 454. 
Urbino, 328. 
Utrecht, 217. 
Valence, 403. 
Valencia, 412. 
Valenciennes, 201. 
Valladolid, 432. 
Vallombrosa, 337. 
Vaurluse, 403. 
Velletri, 371. 
Venice, 313, 307. 
Verona, 308, 307 
Versailles, 191. 
Vesuvius, 379. 
Vevav, 291. 
Via Mala, 273. 
Viraiza, 311. 
Vichy, 440. 
Vienna, 250. 



Vienne, 403. 
Vincennes, 181. 
Wales, 27. 
Walhalla, The, 269. 
Wallenstadt, Lake, 277, 
Wartburg, 239. 
Warwick, 116. 
Waterloo, 206. 
Weimar, 240. 
Wells, 158. 
Wiesbaden, 237, 234. 
Wight, Isle of, 157. 
Wifdbad Gastein, 260. 
Wiihelmshohe, 238. 
Winchester, 156. 
Windermere, 44, 45. 
Windsor, 151. 
Worcester, 112. 
Wornas, 271. 
Whrzburg, 270. 
York, 98. 
Yverdon, 291. 
Zaandam, 217. 
Zermatt. 295. 
Zurich, 276, 2^* 



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